Here is a new article about the beautiful Vienne department. In a previous article, I shared my visit to Futuroscope and in another, I took you on a tour around the surroundings of Poitiers. Today, I’m proposing a short city break in Poitiers to discover the Poitevin capital, with my usual selection of things to do, see, eat, and experience, along with some great addresses and favorites.
A quick geographical refresher (it might come in handy…): the Vienne department is located in the former Poitou-Charentes region (now in Nouvelle-Aquitaine), in the center-west of France. Poitiers is a city that deserves a stop and time to be discovered. Indeed, the Poitevin city, marked by more than 2000 years of history, is rich in heritage. And if you also want to explore the surroundings of Poitiers, I suggest you take a look at my article on what to see and do around Poitiers.
Table of Contents
Ideas for things to see and do in Poitiers
Below you will find some ideas for visits and things to do during your time in the prefecture of the Vienne. I had the opportunity to test these activities/visits during my two trips to the city, in 2015 and 2017. Also note that Poitiers is one of the emblematic cities of Romanesque art in France. Don’t miss the chance to admire the facade of the Church of Notre-Dame-la-Grande (photos above and below), a masterpiece of the era recognized for the delicacy of its sculpted facade, but also the Church of Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, or the Church of Sainte-Radegonde, whose crypt houses the tomb of the wife of Clotaire…
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Visit the Saint-Pierre Cathedral
This cathedral, started shortly after 1150, during the time of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry Plantagenet, is the city’s first Gothic monument. It houses a 12th-century stained-glass window, a classical organ, and superb Gothic wall paintings discovered very recently under more recent plaster coatings. In total, you can see a surface area of 600 m² of restored Gothic paintings: a set of extraordinary scale that is almost unique in a French cathedral!
Saint-Pierre Cathedral
1 Rue Sainte-Croix, 86000 Poitiers
Free entry during cathedral opening hours
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Agent R’s Missions, conduct the investigation in Poitiers
These are life-size riddle games where you are the hero (for the older ones, this might remind you of the name of certain books…), the goal being to put yourself in the shoes of a modern-day Sherlock Holmes. For my part, I tested “Un As pour le casse“, a short mission that will allow you to take a little tour of Poitiers for about 2 hours of walking around several key monuments of the city (Notre-Dame church, Courthouse, Hôtel Jean Beauce, Puygarreau gardens,…). Well-equipped with a small satchel (actually made by Nathalie Marty, a creator who works at the Cité des Tanneurs in Lavausseau, which I mentioned in the previous article), you set off with a complete toolkit to discover the city. I especially recommend this activity in a group or with family; it is certainly under these conditions that the game proves to be the most interesting.
The principle: you will have to solve riddles and find the right answers in order to decode the final message in a Polybius square, which will give you the ultimate answer.
The great tip: if you find the right answer, you will even be entitled to a small gourmet gift…
Tested in 2015
Escape Adventure Game by Odyssée Prod 7 rue Carnot 86000 Poitiers
By reservation: from Tuesday to Saturday from 3 people, on Sundays from 6 people Rates: between €8 and €10 / person depending on the missions
This museum is definitely worth a look if you are passing through Poitiers. First, for its concrete architecture by Jean Monge, characteristic of the 70s (which reminded me of the Gallo-Roman museum of Fourvière in Lyon), but also for its rich collections. For the record, the museum is located on the site of the Sainte Croix Abbey, the first women’s monastery in Gaul, founded in the 6th century by Saint Radegunde.
Given the importance and quality of its collections (Auguste Rodin, Camille Claudel, Piet Mondrian…), this museum, open since 1974, is an essential stop during a visit to the city. It also possesses very beautiful collections of regional archaeology. The museum is also an essential stop to discover the history of Poitou from prehistory to the Middle Ages and to understand the importance of the ancient city of Lemonum.
Visited in 2017 and 2024
Sainte Croix Museum 3 bis rue Jean Jaurès 86000 Poitiers
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (closed at lunch) between June 1st and September 30th
Rates: €5 full price / €2.50 reduced
The great tip: free for all on Tuesdays and the 1st Sunday of the month / free for under 18s, students and apprentices, job seekers, and for everyone on Tuesdays and the 1st Sunday of the month
Right next to the museum, you must absolutely visit this baptistery still standing (an extremely rare fact) which contains a set of wall frescoes and a collection of Merovingian sarcophagi. Indeed, this 5th and 11th-century baptistery is one of the rare witnesses of the early Christian times in Europe. The baptismal pool dates from the 5th century, and the current building was rebuilt during the Carolingian and Romanesque periods. Also absolutely worth seeing are the beautiful set of wall paintings (which are unfortunately degrading very quickly due to infiltration) from the 12th and 13th centuries.
Visited in 2017
Saint-Jean Baptistery rue Jean Jaurès 86000 Poitiers
Open every day (closed on Tuesdays) from 10:30 am to 12:30 pm and from 3 pm to 6 pm between April 1st and September 30th
Rates: €2 full price / €1 reduced
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Visit the Palace of Poitiers
The Palace of Poitiers is a place of power that was at the heart of the great events of the History of France. From the 10th century, it represented the symbol of the authority of the Counts of Poitiers. It also served as a temporary residence for Eleanor of Aquitaine and two of her successive husbands, then for her son Richard the Lionheart. It is from this period that the construction of the great hall dates, which can still be seen today and is one of the most beautiful examples of medieval civil architecture in France. After the move of the Courthouse services to a new building in 2019, the Palace is open to the public for visits.
Palace of Poitiers
10 place Lepetit 86000 Poitiers
The great tip: free and open visit for everyone!
Gift ideas, workshops, and artisan boutiques in Poitiers
Here is a small selection of great addresses (tested and approved) for a bit of shopping in Poitiers and to bring back some souvenirs.
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The Umbrella Factory
One of the last artisan umbrella factories in France, which has existed for 4 generations in Poitiers. You can find umbrellas and parasols made in-house, right in the back of this beautiful address. You can also go there to have your broken umbrella repaired, if it is worth it…
Visited in 2015
The Umbrella Factory 137 Grand Rue 86000 Poitiers
open all year round Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm to 6:30 pm
One of the oldest candle shops in France. On the program: a wide choice of scents: lily of the valley, sour cherry, lavender, peppermint, rose, amber, green pine, jasmine,…
Ciergerie Guédon 113 Grand Rue 86000 Poitiers
Update 05/02/2020: this address is now permanently closed…
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The ceramists of Poitiers
There are 2 well-known shops in the city: that of Delphine Millet, whom I had the luck to meet, and that of Fanny Laugier. The ceramist Delphine Millet has set up her workshop-boutique in the heart of the city of 100 bell towers and offers passersby her creations made by slab building, followed by a very high-temperature firing. She also offers ceramics courses for individuals if you want to “get your hands dirty,” as they say. During my time in Poitiers, she had an exhibition of some of her works at the Mercure Hotel, where I stayed, and also at the Ibis Style hotel.
You will find below some gourmet addresses (restaurant and food addresses), but also superb accommodation in the heart of the city and a very nice bed and breakfast.
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Where to buy cheese in Poitiers? At Jérémie Chosson Cheese Shop
You know my passion for cheese!? So in every city I visit, I always look for a good cheese shop to bring back local cheeses. In Poitiers, I went to this cheese shop which is right next to the tourist office, and I was not disappointed; I recommend it to you!
Where to buy local products? The Vienne Tourist Agency and the Maison du Tourisme et du Terroir
First, it’s always an interesting place to pick up a map of the city, especially since this address is located in the heart of the historic center of Poitiers. Secondly, it is a very good address for doing some last-minute shopping, because the agency has a great Terroir Shop which exclusively presents Vienne products (crafts, books, souvenirs, gastronomy,…) to bring the best specialities of Poitou back home!
The extra bit: this shop also exists on the internet with some products that you can order online for home delivery throughout France!
Small selection of local specialties:
Many AOC winesHaut-Poitou or Saumur (Villemont estate and Ampelidae organic wine) to discover. The wine-growing Vienne is indeed very rich and produces very nice sparkling wines for the aperitif.
The Farci Poitevin, which is mainly composed of curly cabbage leaves and various vegetables. Apparently, there are as many recipes for farci as there are families in Poitou…
The échalion jam from Poitou, specialty of the Maison Mitteault.
The Gargouil apple juice, discovered at DéfiPlanet (see previous article).
The Haut Poitou Melon, because the Vienne is currently the leading department producing Melons in France.
The Tourteau fromagé, a sweet cake made with fresh goat cheese, to be enjoyed as an aperitif or as a snack.
The Macarons of Montmorillon, small cakes made from almonds, egg whites, and sugar.
The broyé du Poitou, a crumbly pure butter shortbread, perfect to dip in tea or coffee and which is shared by punching its center, hence its name!
The Compagnie Coloniale in Dissay, one of the oldest French tea houses, founded in 1848 (rue de la Gare 86130 Dissay).
Beers from the Bellefois brewery, an artisanal village brewery that makes Poitou beer. With a range of 4 beers (51 route de Clan – Bellefois 86170 Neuville de Poitou) with evocative names, a nod to the region’s history and its great battles.
The Huilerie de Neuville, founded in 1850, is the last one in Neuville du Poitou, which still had 13 at the beginning of the 20th century. Specialty of walnut oil (2 rue Robert Schuman ZAE du Chiron 86170 Neuville de Poitou).
Vienne Tourist Agency 33 place Charles de Gaulle
Monday to Friday from 9 am to 6 pm and Saturday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm In July and August every day from 9 am to 9 pm
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A bistro in Poitiers? La Serrurerie
This address located in the city center offers simple but well-made cuisine in an unusual and friendly setting. The perfect place to share an appetizer board (€13) and a glass of wine (prices between €4.90 and €5.30). I also recommend the parsnip soup, which was delicious and very hearty (€9).
Tested in 2024
La Serrurerie
28 rue des Grandes Ecoles 86000 Poitiers
Open every day
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A hotel in Poitiers? The Hôtel Mercure Poitiers centre
The Mercure Poitiers Centre hotel is set in the former Jesuit Chapel of the city and truly offers an exceptional unusual charm! It was truly the ultimate luxury for an old-stone lover like me, to sleep in this former chapel in the heart of Poitiers (and a 10-minute walk from the train station!), beautifully converted into a hotel. This superb Jesuit place of worship was built in 1852 and housed the departmental archives for 50 years. I am actually extremely lucky because during my two visits to the city (in 2015 and 2017), I stayed in this hotel. I was therefore able to test two very different and sublime rooms, both of them.
Today, this 4-star hotel offers 50 high-standard rooms with undeniable charm, with architectural and historical details perfectly integrated into the building. In each room, there is also a breathtaking view of the rooftops of Poitiers from the windows. During my first visit in 2015, I really had the impression of spending the night in a princess’s room; a little more and I would have expected a knight to come and rescue me from my tower (except that I wouldn’t have followed him, I was too busy relaxing in my bath…).
During my 2nd visit in 2017 with the favorite photographer, this time we had a suite under the rooftops. We also loved this room, very different from my princess room the first time, but with so much charm as well. Once again, the room was equipped with a bathtub, and I was able to enjoy a nice bath to relax. The breakfast area is also worth the detour, and the decor is once again breathtaking! In conclusion, I think I can say that it is certainly one of the most beautiful Mercure hotels I have ever seen in France! So if you are passing through Poitiers, you know where to sleep!
Another attraction of the Mercure Poitiers Centre hotel that I just mentioned above is its magnificent restaurant installed in the former nave of the building. The wonder passes as much through the eyes as the taste buds. A very good gourmet address to note in your tablets if you are passing through Poitiers!
To taste: a local sparkling wine, Armance B brut nature, as an aperitif; The fricassee of snails with garlic on lettuce cream, served hot.
The great tip: the daily lunch menu at €22.90 with appetizer + main course + dessert or €18.90 with appetizer + main course or main course + dessert.
Tested in 2015 and 2024
Restaurant Les Archives 14, rue Edouard Grimaux 86000 Poitiers
Open every day from 10 am to midnight, Sundays included Price: à la carte dishes between €15 and €28 / dessert between €10 and €15
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A bed and breakfast in Poitiers? “Le Tilleul” bed and breakfast
This bed and breakfast, located in the historic heart of Poitiers, is set in a former 18th-century private mansion. It offers 2 rooms with a lot of charm: the Aliénor (in which I stayed and which overlooks an interior courtyard) and the Troubadour upstairs, which overlooks the street and the rooftops of Poitiers. The host of this address is also very welcoming and offers good quality breakfast.
Tested in 2024
“Le Tilleul” bed and breakfast
3 Rue de la Celle, 86000 Poitiers
Rates: starting at €80 per night for one person and €90 for 2 people (breakfast included)
I take this opportunity once again to thank the Vienne Tourist Agency for their welcome and for helping us organize the 2015 and 2017 stays.
I hope that with all this I have made you want to visit the Vienne and Poitiers, and if you also have your great addresses and advice for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
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