The beautiful town of Loches, which has around 7,500 inhabitants, is located in the Sud Touraine area, in the Indre-et-Loire department of the Centre-Val de Loire region. This territory became a dairy land following the creation of creameries (including the Verneuil dairy, which still exists today) after the phylloxera epidemic led winemakers to abandon their vines in favor of dairy farming.
We went there for an extended weekend for the first time with my favorite photographer in July 2022, and I must say that we completely fell under the spell of this city with its remarkable heritage, certified as a “City of Art and History”. It offers a journey through time, at the heart of over 1,000 years of history! We later returned with some blogger friends in May 2026. This article brings together the discoveries we made during these two escapes to Touraine.











Practical Information
Getting there by train from Paris:
- The town is easily accessible from Paris by train via Montparnasse station. You need to take a TGV to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps station and then take a connection (TER) to Loches.
- During our stay in 2022, things were a bit more complicated because the railway line leading to Loches was under construction. We therefore had to travel to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps and rent a car to get to Loches (which is more convenient if you wish to travel around the area afterwards, for example).
Table of Contents
What to do and see in Loches?
The town of Loches, which is one of the most beautiful fortified cities in France, developed around a natural rocky spur where people have settled since at least the Gallo-Roman era. In the Middle Ages, the Counts of Anjou built a fortress here, and after 1205, following its capture by Philippe Auguste, it became a “royal city” and housed a royal residence where kings from Charles VII to François I would stay. Today, it preserves the remnants of three major historical periods that marked its urban development: the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the 19th century.
Also, don’t hesitate to stop by the tourist office to pick up some (free) documentation to follow the five mapped trails in the town, which will allow you to discover the history of Loches through key moments: the discovery circuit, the Foulques Nerra circuit, the François I circuit, the Alfred de Vigny circuit, and the Agnès Sorel circuit.
My photo tip: for a beautiful view of the medieval city, I recommend going to the Jardin Public de Loches (5 chemin de la Prairie-de-la-Foire) which is located on the other side of the Indre river and below the fortress.












Loches Touraine Châteaux de la Loire Tourist Office
Place de la Marne, 37600 Loches
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Strolling through the ancient medieval fortress of Loches
First of all, I recommend going for a walk in the ancient medieval fortress of Loches, one of the best-preserved in Europe, by passing through the Royal Gate. You can visit the dungeon, the royal residence, and the Lansyer Museum, which I talk about in more detail below in the article. This upper part of the town is accessible for free and at your leisure, but it can be a bit complicated in terms of accessibility, because it is quite a steep climb.
Also, don’t miss a stop at the Saint-Ours Collegiate Church, built in the 12th century, to admire the tomb of Agnès Sorel, a very beautiful alabaster recumbent statue (free access all year round). The historic core of this commercial town on the old road that connected Paris to Spain is also very well preserved and keeps some beautiful architectural testaments.









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Visiting the Royal City of Loches
The Royal City is today the property of the Indre-et-Loire Departmental Council and is open to visitors. Its scenographic path allows you to discover 500 years of French history with tactile models, projections, video animations, audio milestones… The complex that makes up the Royal City consists of 3 poles: the defensive pole with the Dungeon, the residential pole with the Royal Residence, and the religious pole with the Collegiate Church. With the entry ticket, you can visit the following two monuments: the Dungeon and the Royal Residence (the Collegiate Church being accessible for free without a ticket).




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The Dungeon
This imposing 37-meter-high keep was built in the 11th century by the Count of Anjou Foulques Nerra and is a masterpiece of medieval military architecture. It served alternately as a residential and defensive fortress and later as a State prison at the end of the Middle Ages. During your visit, don’t miss the medieval-inspired garden, reconstructed at the foot of the keep. I must also warn you that the tour of the main tower of the keep is quite a workout (there are many steps and 3 levels) and can perhaps be a little overwhelming if you suffer from vertigo. However, when you reach the top, you are rewarded with a magnificent view of the surroundings.
The keep is visited with an Histopad, a tablet with 360° augmented reality that allows you to see the keep as it was in medieval times and immerse yourself in its history. During the tour, you also gain access to the New Tower, the Martelet Tower, as well as the dungeon of Ludovico Sforza. The New Tower was also a prison, and you can still discover engraved and painted traces left by the prisoners there. Finally, don’t miss the Hall of the Duel with its bas-reliefs, which are a remarkable element of this period.

















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The Royal Lodgings
The Royal Lodgings is a high place in French history and was the favorite residence of the Valois dynasty (between Charles VII and Louis XII), which welcomed three important female figures: Joan of Arc, Agnès Sorel, and Anne of Brittany. The royal power had the desire to make Loches a second capital in the 15th century. It is also an architectural jewel built in the flamboyant Gothic style at the end of the 14th century. Its beautiful facade overlooks the town of Loches and the Indre River. You can also admire the oratory of Anne of Brittany, a small architectural gem, once again in the flamboyant Gothic style.
During our visit in 2022, we were able to discover a temporary exhibition on Agnès Sorel, favorite of King Charles VII: “Agnès Sorel, the influencer”, on the occasion of the sixth centenary of her birth. The opportunity to discover the personality and the influence exerted by this woman of legendary beauty.














Visited in 2022 and 2026
Cité royale de Loches
5 Place Charles VII 37600 Loches
open every day of the year except January 1st and December 25th
Prices (ticket valid for both monuments): 10,50 € / 8,50 € reduced / free for -7s and job seekers
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Visit the Lansyer Museum
This small and charming museum located in the heart of the cité royale de Loches is dedicated to the 19th-century landscape painter Emmanuel Lansyer (1835-1893), who bequeathed his family home and collection to the town of Loches. Since 1902, it has presented paintings and engravings by the artist in his former home, but also personal items belonging to the painter and Japanese objects that he collected. It was an opportunity for me to discover this independent artist who loved painting nature and who was a student of Viollet-le-Duc and Courbet.
I recommend that you take a short tour of the museum and also don’t miss a walk in the small romantic garden of the house (free access during museum opening hours), redesigned in 1998 based on a watercolor by the artist, which offers a bucolic break of greenery in the heart of the medieval city and encourages you to wander.









Visited in 2022
Musée Lansyer
1 rue Lansyer 37600 Loches
The tip: free access for all from Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30am-12:30pm / 2pm-5:45pm
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Visit the Saint-Antoine church and gallery
This 19th-century church is housed in one of the buildings of the former Ursuline convent created in 1626 and closed during the Revolution. You can visit it for free during the building’s opening hours; it contains several works of art by renowned local artists and will give you a beautiful overview of the history of art from the 15th to the 19th century. After your visit, don’t miss the Galerie Saint-Antoine on the side of the church, which houses the enigmatic Caravaggio by Philippe de Béthune and various religious art objects.





Visited in 2022
Eglise et Galerie Saint-Antoine
37600 Loches
free and open visit
Gallery visit every day from 10am to 6:45pm
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Visit the Chancery and the House of the Centaur
These two former private mansions were built in the 16th century. Don’t hesitate to visit the Chancellerie to get some insights into the heritage of Loches through a permanent exhibition and another one about the tomb of Agnès Sorel (both exhibitions are accessible for free). Also, do not miss the Maison du Centaure and its sculpted facade representing Hercules piercing the centaur Nessus with an arrow as he abducts his wife, Deianira.




Visited in 2022
Chancellerie
8 Rue du Château, 37600 Loches
Exhibition accessible for free from April to October
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Go for a canoe ride on the Indre
A very lovely activity that I also recommend doing during your time in Loches (if the season allows it) is a short canoe ride on the Indre, which runs along the town. You can rent canoes at the edge of town, at the Cultu’raids Concept stand, go for a quick paddle round trip, and then return to your starting point. As always for canoeing, I recommend wearing clothes you don’t mind getting wet (I often wear my swimsuit and yoga gear, for example) and bringing clothes to change into afterward, which you can leave at the starting point. I also always bring flip-flops for this kind of activity and a bottle of water.
The ride is quite idyllic and also allows you to see the surroundings from a different perspective. Just be careful not to paddle too far under the trees if you don’t like spiders, as they’re a bit of a haunt for them…







Activity tested in 2022
Cultu’raids Concept
Canoe rental from 1 hour to a full day
Canoe rates: 10 € per person for 1h / 12 € per person for 2h / 18 € per person for 3h / 20 € per person for 4h / 26 € per person for the full day / reduced rates for children
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Go for a bike ride along the BeauxLieux art trail
This artistic and bucolic trail stretches between the towns of Loches and Beaulieu-lès-Loches, from the public garden in Loches to the historic center of Beaulieu, passing through the Prairies du Roy (a 240-hectare green lung and sensitive natural area in the heart of the Indre Valley). You can discover about thirty works of art, and in 2022, 8 new works joined the trail under the theme of Resilience.
Also, don’t miss the chance to stop at the Viantaises community garden along the route, near Beaulieu-lès-Loches, which is the former vegetable garden of the Viantaises nuns’ convent. The site is also freely accessible and truly beautiful! We did this route by bike, but you can absolutely do it on foot as well.












Activity tested in 2022
BeauxLieux art trail
Trail with free access, 24/7
There are also paid guided tours (4 €/5 €) of the exhibition in July and August
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Rent a bike at Cycles de Vie
This small workshop, located in the Loches train station, offers refurbished Dutch bikes for sale or rent and also provides a repair service for all types of bikes. You can rent your bike (plus the option to rent accessories as well, such as helmets, locks…) for half a day or a full day by booking directly on their website.




Activity tested in 2022
Cycles de Vie
Gare de Loches 37600 Loches
Rates: 15 € per bike for half a day and 20 € for the full day
Update 05/14/2026: this bike rental shop has unfortunately permanently closed its doors
My favorite gourmet spots in Loches
As usual, you will find my selection of great gourmet spots in Loches below (several restaurants, a boutique, and a market) that we had the opportunity to test during our two stays with my favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you are visiting South Touraine.
Specialties to try: “Roi rose” pork rillons from Touraine, Sainte-Maure de Touraine cheese; Touraine wines.
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Visit the Loches market on Saturday morning
If you want to buy and/or consume some local products, I recommend you get up on Saturday morning and head to the city market, which is held throughout the entire town center (it’s a fairly large market). Indeed, the Loches market is one of the epicurean epicenters of the Centre Val de Loire region. Here are a few local producer stalls that I have tested (and from which we brought back a few products) and that I recommend to you: Sandrine Champion (goat cheese producer); la cabane des 4 saisons (to buy fruits and vegetables); and buying rillettes de Tours AOP at the Maison Galland stall (€5.95).





Loches Market
Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM
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Where to go shopping in Loches? Les Ateliers du Coin
This boutique for designers and craftspeople offers an exhibition and sales space open to the public. In total, Les Ateliers du Coin offer 60 m² dedicated to exhibiting and selling creations that combine various talents (craft forager, pottery, natural cosmetics made with plants…) from ten artisans determined to promote the expertise of the South Touraine region. The boutique brings together 12 permanent artisans, plus guests (artisans and artists) who rotate every 3 months.






Address tested in 2022
Les Ateliers du Coin
24 Grande Rue, 37600 Loches
Opening days and hours: Monday from 2:00 PM to 7:00 PM and Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PMMore information about the boutique
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A locavore restaurant in Loches? Lunch at Le P’tit Restau
This little address located on the Grande Rue in Loches is one of my culinary favorites in the city! The chef offers a short, seasonal menu with 3 starters, 3 main courses, and 3 desserts that change every week, using products that are primarily locally produced and organic if possible. And we really enjoyed our meal! On nice days, the restaurant also offers a lovely little terrace in the pedestrian street in front of the establishment.
We tasted: fish terrine with organic basil, piquillos coulis, and mixed green salad; organic rice cream with sweet garlic and salsa of tomatoes with organic fresh herbs; pan-seared pollock fillet with zucchini caviar charred with garlic and lemon; organic eggplant meatballs with ricotta and parmesan, tomato sauce, organic basil, and Kalamata olive tapenade; apricot financier and organic fresh verbena crème anglaise; for drinks, the restaurant offers a lovely selection of wines from the region (wine by the glass between €5.50 and €8).










Address tested in 2022
Le P’tit Restau
6 Grande Rue, 37600 Loches
Open every day from 12:00 PM to 2:00 PM and 7:30 PM to 10:00 PM except Wednesday and Thursday
Price : menu with starter + main course + dessert for €30 / à la carte starter €7, main course €17, dessert €6 / dish of the day for €12 and dessert of the day for €4
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Where to grab a quick lunch in Loches? Le Café de la Porte Picois
This bistro-style café-restaurant offers a dining service for a quick lunch, including croque-monsieur with raw vegetables, green salad, or fries until 4:00 PM. I particularly recommend the one with Sainte-Maure de Touraine cheese (€9.80). For a starter to share, try a plate of homemade rillons (a local specialty) with rillettes (€7). For dessert, I had a gourmet coffee (€6.90). It gets crowded on market days, so I recommend you book in advance if you want to be sure to get a table.






Restaurant tested in 2026
Café de la Porte Picois
3 Rue Saint-Antoine 37600 Loches
Prices: salads between €14.90 and €16.90; croques between €8.90 and €10
The great tip: lunch set menu offered every day with starter + main course + dessert for €18 / starter + main course or main course + dessert for €15
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Where to have lunch on a terrace in Loches? Au Vicariat
This restaurant located in the heart of the Cité Royale is ideal for a lunch break during your visit to this part of the city. It is especially worth it for its beautiful tree-lined terrace with a magnificent view, both of the Royal Logis and the surrounding area.
To taste: plate of homemade foie gras (€14); gazpacho (€6); Lochoise salad with local products (€15); the Vicariat burger with fig bread and homemade foie gras (€18); for wines, the establishment also offers a lovely selection of local wines (wine by the glass between €3.50 and €6); for dessert, artisan ice creams from the Manufacture des Belles Glaces (€6 for a 120 ml tub).












Address tested in 2022
Restaurant Le Vicariat
4 Place Charles VII, 37600 Loches
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A bistronomic table in Loches? Le Prosper
This bistronomic restaurant is nestled at the foot of the Tour Saint-Antoine. We had dinner on the establishment’s terrace and spent a truly lovely evening there. The service is adorable and very friendly, and we also ate very well.
To taste : borscht-style gazpacho (€9); mini beef tartare seasoned chef’s style (€10); chicken suprême with peanuts (€19); catch of the day, a line-caught pollack from Brittany with mashed potatoes and small vegetables (€19); local cheese assortment (€7); for dessert, a baba au vieux rhum (€7); a beautiful selection of regional wines by the glass (between €4.50 and €6).












Address tested in 2022
Restaurant Le Prosper
4 Place de la Marne 37600 Loches
Price : discovery menu with starter + main + dessert at €29
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A gourmet dinner in Loches? Restaurant Le George
To extend the experience at Hôtel Le George (which I mention in the “accommodation” section below), it is essential to sit down at the hotel’s restaurant, which complements the highlights of the accommodation. The restaurant at Le George indeed features a superb terrace/veranda set above a branch of the Indre river. From there, you can enjoy a view of the public garden and its majestic centuries-old trees. In this idyllic setting, the chef delights us by offering delicious seasonal cuisine, carefully concocted with fresh and tasty local produce.










Restaurant tested in 2026
Restaurant Le George
39 rue Quintefol, 37600 Loches
Rates : starter + main + dessert menu €39 / food & wine pairing €22 (3 glasses)
The good deal : weekly menu starter + main + dessert €23 or starter + main or main + dessert €19.50
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Where to have a chic dinner in Loches? At restaurant La Cour des Saveurs
La Cour des Saveurs is the restaurant of the Hôtel de la Cité royale, a beautiful 4-star establishment. The address features a large terrace with a panoramic view of the historic and fortified center of Loches, making it an ideal place for a romantic and chic meal. On the plates, you will find tasty cuisine, combining creativity and modernity, prepared by Christophe Vasseur, Maître Restaurateur, and his chef Jorge Bustamante Cerda.










Restaurant tested in 2026
Restaurant La Cour des Saveurs
Hôtel de la Cité Royale, Best Western Premier
2 rue Gonzague Saint-Bris, 37600 Loches
Rates : cocktails €11 and mocktails €9 /
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A Michelin-starred dinner in Loches? Restaurant Arbore & Sens ☆
This gourmet restaurant located in Loches is that of Chef Clément Dumont, who was awarded the national The Fork Awards prize in 2021. It has a lovely indoor terrace covered by a canopy where we dined and which is very pleasant on sunny days.
We tested the chef’s 4-course “Arbore” menu. It offers balanced cuisine, centered around textures. His close work with local producers and local artisans is highly highlighted both on the menu and in the restaurant, which displays photos of them. I really liked, for example, during the meal, being asked to choose a knife with a particular wood, made by a knife-maker artisan in Chinon, Les Copeaux d’Abord, to eat with. A very good point to note as well, we were served very good organic herbal teas to end the meal.
Updated March 9, 2023: the restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star in 2023!














Address tested in 2022
Restaurant Arbore & Sens ☆
22 rue Balzac 37600 Loches
Closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday lunch
Price : “Acte 1” 7-course menu at €88 / “Acte 2” 9-course menu at €125 / food & wine pairing with the Acte 1 menu, €60, with the Acte 2 menu, €90
The good deal : the 3-course “Premiers Pas” menu (weekday lunch only) at €55
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My favorite accommodation addresses in Loches
As usual, you will find below my selection of great accommodation addresses in Loches (a hotel and an unusual accommodation) that we had the opportunity to test during our two stays with the favorite photographer.
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A hotel in Loches? Le George ☆☆☆
Ideally located in the heart of Loches, Le George is a true gem nestled in a magnificent 15th-century building. In the 1820s, the location was a coaching inn called the “hôtel de la providence”, which owes its current name to visits from illustrious personalities such as the writer George Sand. Situated on the banks of the Indre, this intimate establishment with 17 rooms (classic or comfort) and a restaurant (which I mentioned in the previous paragraph) offers a surprisingly bucolic environment right in the middle of town. During our stay with my favorite photographer, we stayed in room 108, a suite that was absolutely quiet and overlooked the Indre at the back.
We found that the establishment offered some very fine features for a 3-star hotel. It was, in fact, completely renovated in 2020. Another highlight of this stay was undoubtedly the breakfast: served in a sunny veranda that pleasantly overlooks the stream, it provides a simply magnificent setting to start the day.









Hotel tested in 2026
Le George ☆☆☆
39 rue Quintefol, 37600 Loches
Rates : classic room for two people from 77 € / comfort+ room (like ours) from 145 €
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An unusual place to stay in Loches? Troglodyte gîte at Diane’s
This charming troglodyte gîte (cave dwelling) with a terrace is located on the heights of the town and offers a superb view over the city of Loches. We were very well welcomed by Diane, who offers this gîte at the end of her property. The gîte is well-equipped and offers the possibility of cooking on-site (hot plates, fridge, dishes, coffee machine, kettle…). It is perfect for a short couple’s getaway. Diane has also made a lot of documentation available in the gîte regarding all the activities and visits to do in the surrounding area.
However, I prefer to warn you: this gîte (well, this one and all troglodyte gîtes in fact) is not ideal for arachnophobes like me… Indeed, despite the impeccable cleanliness of the gîte, which is cleaned with great care—and it is important to point that out—spiders love this type of place, and you will certainly come across one or two beautiful specimens. It’s no one’s fault, and there is nothing to be done to avoid it, but if you are afraid of them, it’s better to be warned. That didn’t stop me from having a very good stay and feeling comfortable in this little cocoon carved into the rock. The breakfast is included in the rental and it is delivered to the gîte in the morning. I admit that it was one of the pleasures of this stay, having breakfast in the sun with that incredible view—pure happiness.













Gite tested in 2022
Gîte troglo Chez Diane
Chemin de Montmartre, 37600 Loches
Things to do in the surroundings of Loches
As usual, you will find below a selection of visit ideas in the vicinity of Loches. Some are easily accessible by bike for example, while others do require you to have a vehicle to get there.
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Visit the town of Beaulieu-lès-Loches
This town is located really just next to Loches (it is even easily accessible on foot or by bike from the town center of Loches), on the edge of the right bank of the Indre. The medieval and monastic city still has a beautiful built heritage today with no less than 13 monuments classified as Historical Monuments.
You can discover its abbey church and also the Saint-Laurent church, which has become a cultural space and regularly hosts free temporary exhibitions organized by the association Outrevoir. The town also houses the remains of the old abbey, beautiful old mansions, mills, and poetic gardens. Indeed, as I was already telling you in the paragraph on the BeauxLieux artistic trail, don’t hesitate to take a look at the shared garden of Beaulieu, which is truly an extremely pleasant place to stroll!











Beaulieu-lès-Loches
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Go for a walk in the Forest of Loches
The Loches national forest is two centuries old and is home to one of the most beautiful oak forests in France. You can go for a short, bucolic stroll starting from the Pas aux ânes pond parking lot (as we did). You then need to follow the Pas aux ânes trail that loops around the pond (about 30 minutes); otherwise, for a slightly longer walk, you can also follow the RandoCroquis trail which takes you to the lovely Saint-Jean du Liget Romanesque chapel, lost in the middle of the fields (allow about a good hour of walking). This trail is also dotted with signs about drawing in nature (hence its name). In any case, these are easily accessible and very bucolic little walks.
After your walk, you can also stop in front of the current Chartreuse du Liget which is right next door and admire its architecture. I believe it can also be visited; unfortunately, during our visit, we didn’t have the time to stop there (prices: 2 € for a visit to the exterior and ruins + 2 € for a visit to the Saint-Jean du Liget chapel). This Charterhouse was founded in 1177 by Henry II Plantagenet and placed under the patronage of Saint John the Baptist.














Rando’Croquis Route
Royal Forest of Loches
Starting from the Pas aux Anes pond
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Make a stop in the floral village of Chédigny
Chédigny, located on the banks of the Indrois river, is the only village in France to be entirely labeled as a “Remarkable Garden” since 2013, and also a “Golden Flower” village, the highest distinction for floral towns and villages. It is the residents who have shaped it over the years, transforming it into a lush garden where 1,000 rosebushes and more than 4,000 perennial plants flourish. You can even find “plant exchange boxes” in the village, similar to “book exchange boxes,” which I thought was really great!
See my full article on the village of Chédigny






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Visit the village of Le Louroux
If you’re in the area, don’t hesitate to make a stop at the very authentic village of Le Louroux to see its imposing fortified priory. You can also take a stroll around its lake and go observe the birds at the ornithological observatory. It’s a very nice walk to take if you have a little extra time.






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Thanks to the Loches Touraine Châteaux de la Loire Tourist Office for organizing these two stays, and to Emilie from the AirPur Agency.

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Loches and South Touraine, and if you also have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization is required before any use
