Visiting Loches and its surroundings in South Touraine

The beautiful town of Loches, with about 7,500 inhabitants, is located in South Touraine, in the Indre-et-Loire department of the Centre-Val de Loire region. This territory became a dairy region following the creation of creameries (including the Verneuil creamery, which still exists today) after the phylloxera epidemic and the abandonment of vineyards by winemakers in favor of cow farming. We went there for a long weekend with my favorite photographer in July 2022, and I must say that we completely fell in love with this city and its remarkable heritage, which holds the “City of Art and History” label. It offers a journey through time, at the heart of over 1,000 years of history!

As for practical information, the city is easily accessible from Paris by train via the Montparnasse station. During our stay, things were a bit more complicated because the railway line leading to Loches was under construction (and this will likely remain the case until the end of 2022). We therefore had to travel to St Pierre des Corps and rent a car to reach Loches.

View of the Clock Tower of Loches through colorful flowers.

Mythical bird sculpture in front of the Royal City of Loches church.

Woman in front of a house with purple shutters in Chédigny, near Loches.

View of Loches from the Royal City by a visitor.

Donjon and tower of the Château de Loches, seen from the outside, framed by trees.

Woman resting on a white bench under the vegetation in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Panoramic view of the roofs of Loches from the fortress, woman looking at the landscape.

Aerial view of the roofs and ramparts of Loches under a clear blue sky.

Hiking by the water near Loches, woman sitting on a stone bench looking at the lake.

Table of Contents

What to do, what to visit in Loches?

The town of Loches, which is one of the most beautiful fortified cities in France, developed around a natural rocky spur where humans have settled since at least the Gallo-Roman era. In the Middle Ages, the Counts of Anjou established a fortress there, and after 1205 and its capture by Philippe Auguste, it became a “royal city” housing a royal dwelling where kings would stay from Charles VII to François I. Today, it preserves the vestiges of three major historical periods that marked its urban development: the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the 19th century.

Don’t hesitate to visit the tourist office to pick up some (free) documentation to follow the five mapped trails of the city, which will allow you to discover the history of Loches through key moments: the discovery circuit, the Foulques Nerra circuit, the François I circuit, the Alfred de Vigny circuit, and the Agnès Sorel circuit.

My photo tips: for a beautiful view of the medieval city, I recommend going to the Public Garden of Loches (5 chemin de la Prairie-de-la-Foire), which is located on the other side of the Indre and below the fortress.

Belfry of Loches seen through colorful summer flowers.

Cobbled street of Loches with a woman sitting on the steps of an ancient building.

Entrance gate and towers of the Royal City of Loches under a blue sky.

Street in Loches with the cliff, the Lansyer Museum, and a tourist.

Cobbled path under the arch near the medieval fortress of Loches.

Entrance to the Royal City of Loches, City Hall and Belfry.

Public garden of Loches with a view of the Royal City and the Saint-Ours church.

Close-up of a bright orange flower in the public garden of Loches, South Touraine.

Reflection of the Saint-Martin collegiate church of Loches in a pond of the public garden.

Loches Touraine Loire Valley Tourist Office
Place de la Marne, 37600 Loches
Link to the Tourist Office website

Stroll through the old medieval fortress of Loches

I first recommend going for a walk in the old medieval fortress of Loches, one of the best-preserved in Europe, by passing through the Royal Gate. You can specifically visit the dungeon, the royal dwelling, and the Lansyer museum, which I talk about in more detail further down in the article. This part of the city is freely and openly accessible.

Also, don’t miss a stop at the Saint-Ours collegiate church, built in the 12th century, to admire the tomb of Agnès Sorel, a very beautiful alabaster effigy (free and open access all year round). The historical heart of this commercial town on the old road that connected Paris to Spain is also very well preserved and retains very beautiful architectural testaments.

Medieval turret of Loches with a flag bearing the fleur-de-lys under the blue sky.

Medieval stone staircase, natural light and fleur-de-lys flag in Loches.

Royal Gate of Loches, entrance to the medieval Royal City, South Touraine.

Facade of the Saint-Ours church of Loches with Romanesque portal and conical roof.

Romanesque sculpted portal of the Saint-Ours church of Loches, entrance to the Royal City.

Saint-Ours church of Loches and its sunny garden.

Tomb of Duchess Anne of Brittany in the Saint-Ours church of Loches.

Visit the Royal City of Loches

The Royal City is now the property of the Indre-et-Loire Departmental Council and is open to visitors. Its scenographic route allows you to discover 500 years of French history with tactile models, projections, video animations, sound milestones… With the entry ticket, you can visit the two following monuments: the dungeon and the royal dwelling.

Royal City of Loches and gardens under a blue sky.

The Dungeon

This imposing dungeon, 37 meters high, was built in the 11th century by the Count of Anjou Foulques Nerra and is a masterpiece of medieval military architecture. It served as a residential and defensive fortress in turn, and then as a State prison at the end of the Middle Ages. During your visit, don’t miss the medieval-inspired garden, reconstructed at the foot of the dungeon. I must also warn you that visiting the dungeon is quite athletic (there are many steps) and can eventually be a bit impressive if you have a fear of heights. However, when you reach the top, you enjoy a magnificent view of the surroundings.

The dungeon is visited with an Histopad, a tablet with 360° augmented reality that allows you to see the dungeon in the medieval era and immerse yourself in its history. During the route, you also gain access to the New Tower, the Martelet Tower, as well as the dungeon cell.

Ancient graffiti engraved on the stone walls of the Château de Loches.

Interactive tour in the Guard Room of the Royal City of Loches.

Underground tour in the medieval vestiges of the Château de Loches.

Wooden staircase leading to the outer ramparts of the Château de Loches.

Dark interior of the Château de Loches Dungeon with a stone staircase and visitor.

Dark interior of the medieval fortress of the Château de Loches with a metal walkway.

Roof of the Loches fortress with a visitor and blue sky.

Dungeon of the Château de Loches and gardens with a paved alley under a blue sky.

Sunny garden with a gravel path near the medieval fortress of Loches.

Lush vegetable walkway in the gardens of the Royal City of Loches.

Medieval garden of the Château de Loches with a plant archway and stone walls.

Dungeon and medieval ramparts of the Château de Loches bathed in sun.

The Royal Dwelling

The Royal Dwelling is a high place of French History and was the favorite residence of the Valois dynasty, which hosted three important female figures: Joan of Arc, Agnès Sorel, and Anne of Brittany. It is also an architectural jewel built in the flamboyant Gothic style at the end of the 14th century. Its beautiful facade overlooks the town of Loches and the Indre river. You can also admire the oratory of Anne of Brittany, a small architectural gem, again in the flamboyant Gothic style.

During our visit, we were able to discover a temporary exhibition on Agnès Sorel, the favorite of King Charles VII: “Agnès Sorel, the influencer” (which was visible until November 6, 2022), on the occasion of the sixth centenary of her birth. It was an opportunity to discover the personality and influence exerted by this woman of legendary beauty.

Royal City of Loches, medieval castle seen through blue flowers in the foreground.

Steeple of Loches seen through the foliage of green trees.

Part of the Royal City of Loches with a view of the Saint-Gatien tower.

Guided tour of the Royal City of Loches with the Saint-Ours church in the background.

Religious painting of two men at the Royal City of Loches.

View from the medieval fortress of Loches over the town and the countryside.

View through an embrasure of the towers of the Royal City of Loches and the Saint-Pierre church.

Marble sculpture of a woman embracing a man at the Royal City of Loches.

Interior of the Royal City of Loches with scallop shell walls and stained glass.

Royal City of Loches
5 Place Charles VII 37600 Loches
Open every day of the year except January 1st and December 25th
Rates (ticket valid for both monuments): 10.50 € / 8.50 € reduced / free for -7s and job seekers
Link to the Royal City website

Visit the Lansyer Museum

This small and charming museum installed in the heart of the royal city of Loches is dedicated to the 19th-century landscape painter Emmanuel Lansyer (1835-1893), who bequeathed his family home and collection to the town of Loches. Since 1902, it has presented paintings and engravings by the artist in his former home, as well as personal items and Japanese objects that the painter collected. It was an opportunity for me to discover this independent artist who loved painting nature and was a student of Viollet-le-Duc and Courbet.

I recommend taking a quick look at the museum, and don’t miss out on strolling through the house’s small romantic garden (free access during museum opening hours), redesigned in 1998 based on a watercolor by the artist, which offers a bucolic green break in the heart of the medieval city and invites you to wander.

Painting of the Lansyer Museum Loches: walk in an autumnal undergrowth.

Interior of the Lansyer Museum in Loches with green furniture and displayed paintings.

Dark painting of a devastated interior, exhibited at the Lansyer Museum in Loches.

Painting of the castle of Loches and the old town at the Lansyer Museum.

Interior of the Lansyer Museum in Loches with a set table and wall paintings.

Painting of the Lansyer Museum Loches: cluttered interior with clothes and apparent mess.

Lansyer Museum
1 rue Lansyer 37600 Loches
Rates: 5.50 € / 3.50 € reduced / Free up to 18 years old and for everyone on the 1st Sunday of each month
Link to information about the museum (opening hours…)

Visit the church and gallery of Saint-Antoine

This 19th-century church is installed in one of the buildings of the former Ursuline convent created in 1626 and closed during the Revolution. You can visit it for free during the building’s opening hours. It houses several works of art by renowned local artists and will give you a good overview of art history from the 15th to the 19th century. After your visit, don’t miss going to see the Saint-Antoine Gallery on the side of the church, which houses the enigmatic Caravaggio by Philippe de Béthune and various religious art objects.

Facade of the church of Loches with a steeple and a STOP sign.

Interior of Loches church, wooden altar and painting of the Descent from the Cross.

Interior of the Saint-Antoine church of Loches, nave and main altar.

Visit to an art exhibition, likely at the Lansyer museum in Loches.

Saint-Antoine Church and Gallery
37600 Loches
free and open access
Gallery visit every day from 10 a.m. to 6:45 p.m.

Visit the Chancery and the House of the Centaur

These two former private mansions were built in the 16th century. Do not hesitate to go to the Chancery to get some explanations on the heritage of Loches through a permanent exhibition and another on the tomb of Agnès Sorel (both exhibitions are accessible for free). Also, don’t miss the House of the Centaur and its sculpted facade representing Hercules piercing the centaur Nessus with an arrow while he abducts his wife Deianira.

Inner courtyard of the Chancery of Loches with olive trees and garden furniture.

Interior of the Chancery of Loches with wall frescoes and exit to the garden.

Interior of the Chancery of Loches with a view of the medieval garden.

Chancery
8 Rue du Château, 37600 Loches
Exhibition accessible for free from April to October

Take a canoe trip on the Indre

A very nice activity that I also recommend doing during your visit to Loches (if the season is right) is a little canoe trip on the Indre river, which runs along the city. You can rent canoes at the exit of the town, at the Cultu’raids Concept stand, take a little ride, go back and forth, and then return to your starting point. As always for canoe trips, I recommend wearing clothes that aren’t afraid of getting wet (for example, I often wear my swimsuit and a yoga outfit) and bringing clothes to change into afterward, which you can leave at the starting point. I also always bring flip-flops for this kind of activity and a bottle of water.

The trip is quite bucolic and also allows you to see the surroundings from another perspective. Be careful not to go under the trees too much if you don’t like spiders, as it’s a bit of a home for them…

River shaded under the trees, ideal for a canoe trip in Loches.

Canoe on the Indre near Loches, woman paddling under the trees.

Canoe trip on the Indre river near Loches in a wooded environment.

Canoe-kayak rental in Loches with kayaks and paddles on gravel.

Woman canoeing on the Indre near Loches in Touraine.

Cultu’raids Concept
Canoe rental for 1 hour to a full day
Canoe rates: 10 € per person for 1 hour / 12 € per person for 2 hours / 18 € per person for 3 hours / 20 € per person for 4 hours / 26 € per person for the day / reduced rates for children
Link to their website

Take a bike ride along the BeauxLieux artistic trail

This artistic and bucolic trail extends between the towns of Loches and Beaulieu-lès-Loches, from the public garden of Loches to the historic center of Beaulieu, passing through the Prairies du Roy (240-hectare green lungs and Sensitive Natural Area in the heart of the Indre Valley). You can discover about thirty works of art, and in 2022, 8 new works joined the trail around the theme of Resilience.

Also, don’t miss stopping along the trail near Beaulieu-lès-Loches at the Viantaises shared garden, which is the former vegetable garden of the Viantaises sisters’ convent. The site is also open to the public and is truly magnificent! We did this trail by bike, but you can absolutely do it on foot as well.

Modern artistic sculpture around a tree during a bike ride near Loches.

Red insect sculpture near the church steeple in Beaulieu-lès-Loches.

Cyclist near the sculptures of the BeauxLieux artistic trail near Loches.

Tree decorated with colored knitting at the Petits Jardins of Beaulieu, Loches.

Petits jardins of Beaulieu: orange flowers in an old wheelbarrow.

Path with blue and white sculptures, BeauxLieux artistic trail Loches.

Flowered garden of Beaulieu near the ramparts of Loches, South Touraine.

Creative gardening with succulents in recycled containers in Loches.

Decorative yellow pompom on a tree, Jardins de Beaulieu, Loches.

BeauxLieux artistic trail
Trail with free access, 24/7
There are also paid guided tours (4 €/5 €) of the exhibition in July and August
Link to the trail website

Rent a bike at Cycles de Vie

This small workshop, installed in the Loches train station, offers refurbished Dutch bikes for sale or rent and also provides a repair service for all types of bikes. You can rent your bike (with the possibility of also renting accessories such as helmets, locks…) for a half-day or a full day by booking directly on their website.

Cyclist on a shaded dirt path near Loches, bike ride in South Touraine.

Cyclist in front of Cycles de Vie Loches (Sale, Rental, Repair) for a bike ride.

Woman cyclist with a bike near a bridge and an information sign on a nature trail.

Cycles de Vie
Gare de Loches 37600 Loches
Rates: 15 € per bike for a half-day and 20 € for the full day
Link to their website

My favorite places in Loches

As usual, you will find below my selection of great places in Loches (several restaurants, a boutique, and an unusual accommodation) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to South Touraine.

Specialties to taste: “Roi rose” pork rillons from Touraine, Sainte-Maure de Touraine cheese, and Touraine wines.

Go to the Loches market on Saturday morning

If you want to buy and/or consume some local products, I recommend you wake up on Saturday morning and go to the town market, which is held throughout the city center (it’s a fairly large market). Indeed, the Loches market is one of the epicurean epicenters of the Centre-Val de Loire region. Here are some local producer stalls that I tested (and from which we brought back some products) and that I recommend: Sandrine Champion (goat cheese producer); the Cabane des 4 Saisons (to buy fruits and vegetables); buy AOP Tours rillettes at the Maison Galland stall (5.95 €).

Loches market with a view of the Saint-Ours church belfry in sunny weather.

Maison Galland Tours rillettes at a market stall in Loches.

Open-air producer market in a cobbled street of Loches.

Loches market with Earl Champion goat cheese stall.

Where to go shopping in Loches? Les Ateliers du Coin

This boutique of creators and artisans offers an exhibition and sales space open to the public. In total, Les Ateliers du Coin offer 60 m² dedicated to the exhibition and sale of creations mixing varied talents (gathering artisan, pottery, natural cosmetics with plants…) from ten artisans determined to promote the know-how of South Touraine. The boutique brings together 12 permanent artisans, plus guests (artisans and artists) who change every 3 months.

Bags of wild herbal tea "fruit de cueillettes vagabondes" sold at Ateliers du Coin Loches.

Interior of Ateliers du Coin, boutique of crafts and unique items in Loches.

Handcrafted lamp with animal skull and driftwood at Ateliers du Coin Loches.

Craft boutique Les Ateliers du Coin Loches, woman examining local products.

Boutique Les Ateliers du Coin in Loches, craftsmanship and designers' boutique.

Les Ateliers du Coin
24 Grande Rue, 37600 Loches
Days and opening hours: Monday from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. and Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
More information about the boutique

A locavore restaurant in Loches? Lunch at Le P’tit Restau

This small address installed on the Grande Rue in Loches is one of my culinary favorites in the city! The chef offers a short, seasonal menu with 3 starters, 3 main courses, and 3 desserts that change every week, using products that are mostly locally produced and organic if possible. And we really enjoyed ourselves! The restaurant also offers a very nice small terrace on the pedestrian street in front of the address for sunny days.

We tasted: fish terrine with organic basil, piquillos coulis, and mixed salad; organic rice cream with sweet garlic and organic fresh herb tomato salsa; pan-fried pollock fillet with organic zucchini caviar burnt with garlic and lemon; organic eggplant balls with ricotta and parmesan, tomato sauce, organic basil, and Kalamata olive tapenade; apricot financier with verbena cream; as for drinks, the restaurant offers a lovely selection of regional wines (glass of wine between 5.50 € and 8 €).

Grilled fish on a bed of puree with sunflower seeds Le P'tit Restau Loches.

Restaurant interior Loches: set table and tourist posters of Loches.

Salty flan, red coulis, and salad in a black bowl at a restaurant in Loches.

Wine bottles from Château de Villeneuve and Quincy at P'tit Restau Loches.

Interior of restaurant Le P'tit Restau in Loches with staff and set tables.

Facade of restaurant Le P'tit Restau in Loches with terrace tables.

Moist dessert served with creme anglaise at P'tit Restau Loches.

Le P’tit Restau
6 Grande Rue, 37600 Loches
Open every day from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. and from 7:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. except Wednesday and Thursday
Price: menu with starter + main course + dessert at 30 € / a la carte starter 7 €, main course 17 €, dessert 6 € / daily main course 12 € and daily dessert 4 €
Link to the restaurant website

Where to have lunch on a terrace in Loches? At Le Vicariat

This restaurant, located in the heart of the Royal City, is ideal for a lunch break during your visit to this part of the city. It is especially worth it for its beautiful wooded terrace with a magnificent view, both of the royal dwelling and also the surroundings.

To taste: homemade foie gras plate (14 €); gazpacho (6 €); Lochoise salad with local products (15 €); the Vicariat burger with fig bread and homemade foie gras (18 €); as for wines, the address also offers a lovely selection of local wines (glass of wine between 3.50 € and 6 €); for dessert, artisanal ice creams from the Manufacture des Belles Glaces (6 € for the 120 ml pot).

Foie gras, chutney, and bread toasts on a white plate in Loches.

Tasting white wine in front of the Royal City of Loches.

Shaded terrace of Le Vicariat in Loches with green tables and old houses.

Burger with fries and salad at Le Vicariat in Loches.

Tasting meal on the terrace Le Vicariat Loches with hamburger and salad.

Shaded terrace of Le Vicariat in Loches, South Touraine, with a view of the countryside.

Shaded terrace with a view of the Royal City of Loches and its turrets.

Terrace at the Vicariat of Loches with a view of the medieval fortress.

Lime Sorbet from the Americas La Manufacture des Belles Glaces in Loches.

Le Vicariat Restaurant
4 Place Charles VII, 37600 Loches
Link to the restaurant’s Facebook page

A bistronomic table in Loches? Le Prosper

This bistronomic table is nestled at the foot of the Saint-Antoine Tower. We had dinner on the establishment’s terrace and had a very beautiful evening. The service is adorable and very smiling, and we also ate very well.

To taste: borscht-style gazpacho (9 €); mini beef tartare seasoned in the chef’s style (10 €); supreme of chicken with peanuts (19 €); catch of the day, a Breton line-caught pollock with puree and small vegetables (19 €); assortment of regional cheeses (7 €); for dessert, a rum baba (7 €); a nice selection of regional wines by the glass (between 4.50 € and 6 €).

Person tasting a pink cold soup garnished with herbs, Le Prosper Loches.

Domaine Alexis Boucard N°1 Bourgueil red wine and glass on an outdoor table.

Bottle of Touraine Chenonceaux Domaine de la Grange wine and glass of white wine.

Woman with white wine and appetizers on the terrace in Loches.

Terrace of restaurant Le Prosper in Loches with diners at the table.

Shaded outdoor terrace with customers at the table in Loches, Le Prosper.

Dessert with baba au rhum, ice cream, and slivered almonds on a white plate.

Clock tower of Loches illuminated and the facade of the restaurant Le Prosper at dusk.

Restaurant Le Prosper
4 Place de la Marne 37600 Loches
Price: discovery menu with starter + main course + dessert at 29 €
Link to the restaurant’s Facebook page

Where to have a gourmet dinner in Loches? Restaurant Arbore & Sens

This gourmet restaurant installed in Loches is that of Chef Clément Dumont, who obtained the National The Fork Awards Prize in 2021. It has a lovely inner terrace covered by a canopy where we had dinner and which is very pleasant for sunny days.

We tested the chef’s 4-course “Arbore” menu. It offers balanced cuisine, centered on textures. His close work with local producers and local artisans is highly highlighted both on the menu and in the restaurant, which displays photos of them. For example, I really liked that during the meal, we were asked to choose a knife made of a particular wood, made by a cutler artisan in Chinon, Les Copeaux d’Abord. A very good point to note as well, we were served very good organic herbal teas to end the meal.

Update of March 9, 2023: the restaurant obtained its first Michelin star in 2023!

Le Vau Breton red wine bottle, Cabernet Franc, held in hand in Loches.

Woman enjoying a glass of red wine on a restaurant terrace in Loches.

Shaded Arbore et Sens Loches terrace, diners eating under greenery.

Demonstration of an artisanal knife with wooden handles by a person in Loches.

Shaded terrace Arbore et Sens in Loches, South Touraine.

Gourmet duck breast with mustard seeds and vegetables, Loches.

Laura David Vigneronne Montlouis-sur-Loire Facétieuse white wine bottle held in hand.

Restaurant terrace in Loches under a verdant arbor lit at night.

Tea infused in a teapot and a glass cup on a wooden tray, Loches.

Gourmet dish with fish, orange sauce, and seasonal vegetables in Loches.

Shaded terrace in Loches with a woman using her phone near the Royal City.

Arbore & Sens Restaurant
22 rue Balzac 37600 Loches
Closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday lunchtime
Price: “Arbore” menu in 4 courses at 50 € / “Les Sens” menu in 5 courses at 62 € / food & wine pairing with the Arbore menu 29 €, with the Les Sens menu 37 €
The good tip: the “Premiers Pas” menu in 3 courses (weekday lunch only from Wednesday to Friday) at 38 €
Link to the restaurant website

Where to stay in Loches? Troglodyte gîte at Diane’s

This charming troglodyte gîte with a terrace is located on the heights of the town and offers a superb view of the city of Loches. We were very well welcomed by Diane, who offers this gîte at the end of her property. The gîte is well equipped and offers the possibility of cooking on-site (hot plates, fridge, dishes, coffee machine, kettle…). It is perfect for a short couple’s stay. Diane has also provided a lot of documentation in the gîte on all the activities and visits to do in the surroundings.

However, I prefer to warn you, this gîte (or well, this one and all troglo gîtes in fact) is not ideal for arachnophobes like me… Indeed, despite impeccable cleanliness in the gîte, where cleaning is done with great care (and it’s important to specify), spiders love this kind of place and you won’t fail to cross one or two beautiful specimens. It’s no one’s fault and there is nothing to be done to avoid it, but if you are afraid of them, it is better to be warned. This didn’t stop me from having a very good stay and feeling good in this little cocoon carved into the rock. The breakfast is included in the rental and it is delivered to the gîte in the morning. I admit it was one of the pleasures of this stay: having breakfast in the sun with this incredible view, happiness.

Whitewashed troglodyte facade in Loches with lush vegetation and view of the roofs.

Interior of troglodyte accommodation in Loches with woman in yellow dress in the back room.

Decorative mirror capturing a photographer taking a selfie in a troglodytic interior in Loches.

Troglodyte interior in Loches with stone fireplace and raw walls.

Wooden chair with white cushion written "La vie est une fête" in Loches.

Troglodyte bedroom in Loches with woman using her phone near arched windows.

Terrace with view of the Royal City of Loches and sunny breakfast.

Woman in front of a troglodyte house in Loches with baskets.

Woman having breakfast with a view of the Royal City of Loches.

Green exterior near Loches with troglodyte cave and foliage.

View of the town of Loches from a garden with chickens and outdoor sleeping.

Chez Diane troglo gîte
Chemin de Montmartre, 37600 Loches
Link to the gîte’s Airbnb page

To do in the surroundings of Loches

As usual, you will find below a selection of ideas for visits to make in the surroundings of Loches. Some are easily accessible by bike for example, others still require being motorized to get there.

Visit the town of Beaulieu-lès-Loches

This town is really just next to Loches (it is even easily accessible on foot or by bike from the center of Loches), on the edge of the right bank of the Indre river. The medieval and monastic city still has a beautiful built heritage today with no less than 13 monuments classified as Historical Monuments.

You can discover its abbey church and also the Saint-Laurent church, which has become a cultural space and regularly hosts free temporary exhibitions organized by the association Outrevoir. The town also houses the remains of the old abbey, beautiful old houses, mills, and poetic gardens. Indeed, as I was already telling you in the paragraph on the BeauxLieux artistic trail, don’t hesitate to go and take a look at the shared garden of Beaulieu which is truly an extremely friendly place to wander!

Beaulieu-lès-Loches: traditional houses by the water with vines.

Stone vaulted passage leading to a flowered courtyard and red bench in Beaulieu-lès-Loches.

Traditional houses along a canal in Beaulieu-lès-Loches.

Stone steeple of the old church of Beaulieu-lès-Loches, ruined facade, blue sky.

Cobbled street in Beaulieu-lès-Loches leading to a Romanesque steeple under the blue sky.

Vaulted interior of the Royal City of Loches with a contemporary art installation.

Interior of a religious building with Gothic vaults and a contemporary art exhibition.

Scarecrow in the little gardens of Beaulieu near Loches.

Abandoned bike with leather bag hanging in the gardens of Beaulieu, Loches.

Beaulieu-lès-Loches
Link to the Beaulieu-Lès-Loches town hall website

Take a walk in the Forest of Loches

The Loches state forest is two hundred years old and houses one of the most beautiful oak forests in France. You can take a small bucolic walk starting from the parking lot of the Pas aux Ânes pond (as we did). You then have to follow the Pas aux Ânes trail that goes around the pond (about 30 min), otherwise for a slightly longer walk, you can also follow the RandoCroquis trail which takes you to the beautiful Saint-Jean du Liget Romanesque chapel, lost in the middle of the fields (count about a good hour of walking). This trail is also marked with panels about nature drawing (hence its name). In any case, these are small, easily accessible, and very bucolic walks.

After your walk, you can also stop in front of the current Chartreuse du Liget which is right next door and admire its architecture. I believe it can also be visited; unfortunately, during our visit, we didn’t have time to stop (rates: 2 € for the visit of the exterior and vestiges + 2 € for the visit of the Saint-Jean du Liget chapel). This Charterhouse was founded in 1177 by Henry II Plantagenet and placed under the patronage of Saint John the Baptist.

Wild chicory flowers in the high grass of the Forest of Loches.

Sculpted gate leading to the Forest of Loches and castle in the background.

Pond on the edge of the Loches forest, South Touraine.

Reeds on the edge of the river near the Loches forest, Indre-et-Loire.

Red and yellow hiking trail marker on a tree trunk in the Loches forest.

Hiking in the Loches forest, woman with yellow backpack on a shaded path.

Isolated Romanesque chapel in a wheat field near the Loches forest.

Hiking in the Forest of Loches on a country path next to a wheat field.

Romanesque stone chapel near a wheat field and trees, Forest of Loches.

Monumental portal of the Forest of Loches under a blue sky.

Access road to the Château de Loches surrounded by greenery, South Touraine.

Rando’Croquis trail
Loches Royal Forest
Starting from the Pas aux Anes pond

Stop in the flowered village of Chédigny

Chédigny, located on the banks of the Indrois, is the only village in France labeled in its entirety as a “Remarkable Garden” since 2013 and also as a “Golden Flower,” the highest distinction of flowered towns and villages. It was its inhabitants who shaped it over the years and transformed it into a lush garden where 1000 rose bushes and more than 4000 perennials flourish. We even find in the village, like “book boxes,” “plant boxes” for exchanging seeds, which I found really great!

Strolling and wandering in the village (with free access) is particularly pleasant and I really recommend you make at least a little stop at Chédigny if you are in the area. Also, don’t miss the town’s washhouse, which is fed by the charming Orfeuil stream.

Good to know: the village organizes a popular Rose Festival on the last weekend of May.

Old post office and yellow mailbox in Chedigny, near Loches, covered in roses.

Traditional house with red shutters and flowered garden in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Yellow goldenrod flowers in bloom near the Royal City of Loches.

Green door at 13, white stone facade and climbing roses in Chédigny.

Charming street in Chédigny near Loches with a woman sitting on a low wall.

Stone steeple of the Chédigny church with clocks and flowers in the foreground.

Woman in front of a typical house in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Ché́digny: woman walking towards a covered bridge near red climbing flowers.

Old street in Chédigny, signage "Vo 4 LUZILLE".

Chédigny
Link to the town website

Visit the Priest’s Garden (Jardin du Curé)

Located within the presbytery grounds, this garden gathers hundreds of rare perennial and annual plants, fruit trees, a remarkable tree, medicinal plants, as well as a vegetable garden of old or forgotten vegetables. During the walk in this small garden, you also discover a farmyard with Gelines chickens and grey Touraine rabbits.

Walk in a vegetable garden of the BeauxLieux artistic trail in Chedigny, near Loches.

Rusty sign with JARDIN inscription and gardening tools on a green background.

Black rooster with red crest in a shaded garden in Chédigny.

Woman running under a flowered arbor in the gardens of Chédigny, South Touraine.

Priest’s Garden (Jardin du Curé)
Chédigny
Paid entry: 3 € per person
More info about this garden

Gourmet lunch at Le Clos aux Roses

During our visit to Chédigny, we had lunch in this gourmet restaurant which has a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. The address also offers a charming small terrace covered by wisteria for sunny days and also acts as a bed and breakfast, for information, if you are looking for accommodation in the area.

In the kitchen, we find young chef Armelle Krause, who has worked with great French chefs and offers simple, refined, and colorful cuisine in her restaurant. A large part of the flowers, herbs, and some vegetables served in the restaurant come directly from the village and the Priest’s Garden, which I just told you about above.

Two bottles of white wine, Les Buissonnets and Les Gravilices, Vintage 2018.

Shaded terrace of Le Clos aux Roses in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Le Clos aux Roses Restaurant Bed and Breakfast in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Shaded terrace of Le Clos aux Roses in Chédigny, restaurant in South Touraine.

Gourmet salmon dish, vegetables, edible flowers, restaurant dish South Touraine.

Tasting on the terrace at Le Clos aux Roses in Chédigny, South Touraine.

Meringue dessert with cream and poached pear served on a grey plate.

Gourmet red fruit dessert, sorbet, and cream on a white plate.

Restaurant Le Clos aux Roses
2 Rue du Lavoir, 37310 Chédigny
Reservation recommended
Price: Clos menus 2 courses for 28 € / 3 courses for 34 € / 4 courses for 46 € / food and wine pairing for 25€
Link to the restaurant website

Visit the village of Louroux

If you are in the area, do not hesitate to stop at the very authentic village of Louroux to see its imposing fortified priory. You can also take a tour around its lake and go observe the birds at the ornithological observatory. It’s a very nice walk to do if you have a little time.

Hiker looking through a natural hideout, Loches South Touraine.

Ancient village street leading to the Loches church under a blue sky.

Woman hiking on a boardwalk under the trees near Loches.

Fishing by the side of a body of water with a chair and fishing rod, South Touraine.

Medieval enclosure of Loches with its tower and steeple under a blue sky.

Thanks to the Loches Touraine Loire Valley Tourist Office for organizing the stay, and to Emilie from the AirPur Agency.

View of Loches from a garden, pensive woman.

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Loches and South Touraine, and if you, too, have your good addresses and advice for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission is mandatory before any use