Located in the south of Brittany, the Morbihan (which means “little sea” in Breton) is a region of contrasting and fascinating landscapes. While the department is famous for its exceptional coastline, the inland area is equally packed with unexpected treasures. In October 2025, alongside my favorite photographer, we set off to discover this “Heart of Brittany” to explore its Petites Cités de Caractère®. This label, created over 40 years ago, brings together unique towns with remarkable heritage, nestled in exceptional locations. From Rochefort-en-Terre to Josselin, via the legendary forest of Brocéliande, I am taking you along with me for a trip rich in history, legends, and of course, great food.
Below, as is my habit, I share my selection of things to see and do, as well as the great addresses (accommodations, restaurants, artisan shops) that we uncovered during our Morbihan journey.
Practical Information
- Getting there by train from Paris: It takes about 2.5 to 3 hours by TGV from Paris Montparnasse station to Vannes station. It is then recommended to rent a car to freely explore the inland areas.
Morbihan Tourisme
Table of Contents
Rochefort-en-Terre
Voted “Favorite Village of the French” in 2016, Rochefort-en-Terre is a must-see stop. This village of 650 inhabitants sees its population explode in summer and during the year-end holidays, welcoming nearly 500,000 visitors per year. And it’s easy to see why! Perched on a rocky promontory and surrounded by a strip of schist, the village is a true heritage gem. It developed around a powerful castle as early as the 12th century, taking advantage of its position as a strategic commercial crossroads. Today, it is a town that invites you to take your time, wander through its flower-filled alleys, and admire its ancient houses. Don’t miss walking around the ramparts and the castle courtyard (destroyed and rebuilt many times) to take in the panorama of the Grées, those slate-schist barriers typical of the Landes de Lanvaux massif.
Rochefort-en-Terre Tourisme
3 place des Halles 56230 Rochefort-en-Terre
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What to see and do in Rochefort-en-Terre?
Visit the Naia Museum
This is an unusual visit to make in the village. Located in the park of the Château de Rochefort-en-Terre, the Naia Museum is dedicated to the arts of imagination, fantasy, and science fiction. Founded in 2015 by a pair of passionate artists, Patrice Pit Hubert and Manu Van H, this museum-gallery presents around 300 works by about a hundred international artists. The tour spans 4 rooms, a garden, and even extends into the 13th-century underground cellars of the fortress, adding a mystical atmosphere to the visit. The museum is also a gallery, and the exhibited works are available for purchase.
Naia Museum
Parc du Château, 14 Rue du Château, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
Self-guided tour rates: €7 / €6 reduced / €4 children aged 8 to 12
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My favorite addresses in Rochefort-en-Terre
Gourmet and artisanal shopping
Rochefort-en-Terre is renowned for the quality of its art artisans and boutiques. Below is my handpicked selection to bring back wonderful and delicious souvenirs (and more) from your trip to the Morbihan.
Le Rucher Fleuri
This institution in Rochefort-en-Terre is run by the Humeau family. They artisanally craft delicious gingerbread, perfect for the holidays (wholesale and retail).
Le Rucher Fleuri
7 rue du Porche 56230 Rochefort-en-Terre
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Kouign Amann
This shop, which has existed for over 50 years, also belongs to the Humeau family mentioned above. We were told these are the best kouign-amanns around, and they even hold 3 labels of excellence! So we tasted them and were not disappointed! (And I brought some back to Paris to share…).
Kouign Amann
Place du Puit 56230 Rochefort-en-Terre
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L’Art Gourmand
Open for 9 years, this shop is a paradise for food lovers. You’ll find biscuits (specializing in shortbread), montekaos (butter-free and egg-free cakes), as well as pastries and quiches. The address also operates as a tea room, making it the ideal spot for a break during your stroll, over cakes and a hot drink.
L’Art Gourmand
2 rue des Scourtets, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
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Le Bonheur des Plantes
A lovely herbalist shop that also doubles as a bookstore, nestled in a charming setting. Herbal teas are chosen according to the desired benefits, and the creator of the infusions offers great advice to help select the products best suited to your needs.
Le Bonheur des Plantes
14 rue du château, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
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Bougies Marie
A historic village shop (present for 29 years) where candles are made directly on-site.
Bougies Marie
Rue du Porche, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
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The Sainte-Hortense Bookstore
The Sainte-Hortense Bookstore is a general bookstore located in the former stables of Villa Sainte-Hortense. This historic location offers a charming interlude in the heart of the village.
Librairie Sainte-Hortense
16 Rue du Château, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
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La Maison des ARTisanes
This cooperative boutique brings together a dozen passionate female creators and artisans from Rochefort-en-Terre, located in the heart of the village opposite the church. Housed in the former Post Office building, it is the right spot for lovers of local craftsmanship. It’s the ideal place to find a unique piece: jewelry, ceramics, or textiles.
Maison des ARTisanes
14 rue ND de la Tronchaye, 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
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Where to eat in Rochefort-en-Terre? La Maison Cachée
A huge crush for this confidential address, run by a passionate couple: Sarah in the dining room and Alban in the kitchen. The restaurant is housed in a beautiful half-timbered building dating back to 1478. On the plates, you’ll find a rustic and refined menu that gives pride of place to vegetables. In the evening, the address offers a set menu (starter + main course + dessert) for €39, truly top-notch value for money for this level of cooking. Definitely not to be missed if you are passing through Rochefort-en-Terre! Besides, the establishment has earned a wonderful score of 13.5/20 in the Gault et Millau.
La Maison Cachée
9 rue Haute Candre 56220 Rochefort-en-Terre
Prices: wine by the glass between €7 / local beers €7.50
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Where to stay near Rochefort-en-Terre? Manoir du Vau d’Arz
To extend our stay, we set down our bags just minutes away from Rochefort-en-Terre, in a former 16th-century hunting lodge. This manor, once the property of an Abbott, is now an estate nestled in the heart of a Natura 2000 classified park (keep your eyes open, otters and other species live there too!). Among the four gîtes set up in the former stables and the two guest rooms, we slept in the “cathedral room”. Perched at the top of the square tower dating from 1540, it offers a wonderful experience and features high-end, French-made bedding.
The extra little treat? A relaxing interlude in the wellness area hidden in the park. Slipping into the Nordic bath or the sauna, both heated with wood stoves, is pure bliss! A huge thank you to Sophie for her delicate welcome and kindness, which make this address a rare gem in the Morbihan.
Manoir du Vau d’Arz
Le Vau d’Arz 56220 Malansac
The Forest of Brocéliande
It is impossible to visit inland Morbihan without stopping by the mythical Forest of Brocéliande (also known as Paimpont Forest). This 12,500-hectare forest massif is a land of legends, the cradle of the tales of King Arthur, Merlin the Enchanter, and the Lady of the Lake (Viviane). Please note, however, that it is a private forest and part of it is occupied by the Saint-Cyr-Coëtquidan military camp, so not everything is accessible to the public.
Brocéliande Destination Tourist Office
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The Round Table of Néant-sur-Yvel
On the Saint-Michel mound stands an XXL round table for the new knights! In 2021, King Arthur was the
first to sit at this monumental table, followed by Kay and Gawain, then Perceval and Girflet. Galahad joined them in 2024. This project is led by the Association of the New Knights of Brocéliande. The creation was entrusted to the Ploërmel sculptor Mickaël Thomazo, who revisited the Arthurian imaginary.
Round Table of the New Knights of Brocéliande
Tertre Saint Michel, 56430 Néant-sur-Yvel
Free and open access
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Visiting the Grail Church
The Brocéliande forest is home to the only church in the world dedicated to the Grail legend: the church of Tréhorenteuc, also known as the “Grail” church. Simple and unadorned, clad in purple shale, it brings together—through the vision of a priest with unconventional ideas—Celtic memory, the Christian religion, and chivalric tales. In the heart of the village of Tréhorenteuc, it offers a truly astonishing mythical and mystical ensemble.
Tréhorenteuc Church
1 Rue du Patis, 56430 Tréhorenteuc
Free and open access during opening hours
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Taking a Guided Storytelling Tour in the Brocéliande Forest
We opted for a storytelling tour titled “Autumn Veil” starting from Tréhorenteuc to discover the famous Val sans Retour (Valley of No Return, domain of Morgan le Fay). These walks, led by members of the Confrérie des Guides Conteurs de Brocéliande (Brocéliande Storytelling Guides Brotherhood), are a great way to soak up the atmosphere of the place. Between rocky heathlands and centuries-old trees, you let yourself be carried away by the stories and legends. It is, in any case, a very original way to discover and understand this mythical forest.
Storytelling walk in the Brocéliande Forest
2 km walk
Duration: 2.5 hours
Price: €13
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Where to eat in Tréhorenteuc? L’Auberge du Val Sans Retour
After a good walk in the forest, nothing beats a stop at the Auberge du Val Sans Retour. This tavern is a true haven for tabletop gamers and fantasy lovers (which I certainly don’t mind!). The establishment features a restaurant, a tea room, and even accommodation for hikers. Right across the street, the owners also run a friendly bar. It’s a simple and warm stopover, perfect for staying immersed in the mood of the legends. We also discovered some great beers there, brewed by friends of the innkeepers, the Brasserie des Alchimistes Ivres, and the labels really won us over!
Auberge du Val Sans Retour
5 rue de Brocéliande 56430 Tréhorenteuc
Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays in low season
Josselin
Another stop on our journey: Josselin. This “Petite Cité de Caractère” (Small Town of Character), crossed by the Oust river, is dominated by its majestic feudal castle. With its half-timbered houses and medieval atmosphere, the town offers a true postcard setting. I recommend getting lost in the alleys of the historic center to admire the richly decorated timber-framed houses, and also climbing up to the Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Roncier to explore its interior, which houses some very fine works of art. You can also enjoy a idyllic stroll along the towing paths.
My recommendations for great photo spots:
- The Sainte-Croix Bridge (view of the castle): this is the iconic shot. By standing on the bridge spanning the Oust, you’ll have an unobstructed view of the castle’s three majestic towers reflected in the canal’s water. Quick tip: Go at the end of the day to enjoy the golden light on the stone, or at night to see the illuminated castle.
- The Sainte-Croix District: on the other side of the river, this historic neighborhood offers more intimate cobbled streets and charming Breton houses. Walking slightly up into the heights of the district, you can sometimes catch a glimpse of the town rooftops and the basilica’s spires pointing toward the sky.
- Place de la Congrégation: located right in front of one of the castle entrances, this square is surrounded by magnificent colorful timber-framed houses. It’s the ideal spot to capture the medieval ambiance of the town center and the carved details of the old facades (we took our best photos there, by the way).
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What to see and do in Josselin?
Visit Josselin Castle
This is the town’s must-see monument. The castle has belonged to the Rohan-Chabot family for centuries, and they still live there! I highly recommend taking the guided tour, as it grants access to rooms not visible on a self-guided tour, such as the apartments of Duchess Herminie (the first woman decorated with the Legion of Honour in a civil capacity in France) or the beautiful library housing over 3,000 books. You also discover the dining room and the grand salon with its family portraits (from the 19th century). The tour also includes access to the stunning gardens and the Doll Museum, located in the former stables, which is truly surprising.
Josselin Castle
Place de la Congrégation, 56120 Josselin
Prices: self-guided tour (ground floor castle + gardens + doll museum) €11.50 adult and €5.50 child / guided tour (upper floors + ground floor + gardens + museum) €14.50 adult and €7 child
Open from April to early February and during school holidays
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My favorite spots in Josselin
Where to eat in Josselin? Chez Simon
For lunch, we dropped by Chez Simon, the family-run address belonging to Mounia and Simon. The restaurant is featured in the Gault & Millau guide (with a great score of 12.5/20), which is usually quite a good sign. There, you can enjoy flavorful, well-executed market cuisine prepared with produce from small local producers. We tasted: the beef cheek “bonbon” with textured carrots, the supreme of poultry, and the fish crispy pastry, followed by the chef’s lemon meringue pie for dessert.
Restaurant Chez Simon
9 rue Olivier de Clisson 56120 Josselin
Closed for winter break between February 8 and March 19, 2026
Prices: bistronomic menu 2 courses €31 and 3 courses €35 / gourmet menu 2 courses €41 and 3 courses €45 / glasses of wine between €4.50 and €6
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A crêperie in Josselin? Ar Kastell
For a more traditional break in the heart of the old town, this crêperie is a safe bet. Located very close to the castle, it offers good 100% buckwheat galettes and sweet wheat crêpes in a typical setting, while favoring short supply chains and local artisans. We had a traditional ham galette (always a safe bet, I think – €9.80) and the country-style galette with artisanal sausage (€14.90).
Crêperie Ar Kastell
4 rue du Château 56120 Josselin
Prices: galettes between €4.50 and €16.90 / crêpes between €2.80 and €9.90
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Where to stay around Josselin? Maison Ojigi
For our accommodation near Josselin, we discovered Maison Ojigi, which takes its name from the Japanese bowing tradition “Ojigi”. It’s a charming family-run guest house opened about 3 years ago in a former Breton school in the village of Guégon. The welcome is warm, and you immediately feel right at home. Our room was very lovely and decorated with great taste. I also particularly enjoyed the breakfast, which was truly delicious (and included in the room price, like all guest houses, which is greatly appreciated).
Maison Ojigi
2 Rue de l’Audience, 56120 Guégon
Prices: starting from €85 per night in low season and €100 in high season
Thank you to Morbihan Tourisme and to Christine and Sylvie from the Sylvie Blin agency for organizing this wonderful getaway in the heart of Brittany.
I hope this article has made you want to discover the inland areas of Morbihan and its towns of character. If you also have your own favorite spots in the area, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission is mandatory prior to any use
