The territory of the Coëvrons is located in the Mayenne department, in the Pays de la Loire region. Certified as a Pays d’art et d’Histoire (Land of Art and History) since 2005, this preserved area is the most hilly part of the department. It is a green haven where hedgerows provide a home for countless cows. In fact, there is a fun local saying claiming there are more cows here than inhabitants! The Coëvrons are also renowned for their apple-based specialties, whether it’s artisanal apple juice, cider, or characterful pommeau.
We went to explore this verdant destination with the favorite photographer in April 2026 and we were charmed by the richness of its heritage, its medieval towns, and the beauty of its natural spaces. Below, as is my habit, I share my selection of things to see and do for a rejuvenating stay in the heart of the Coëvrons. You will also find my selection of great gourmet addresses (restaurants, chocolate factory, etc.) and accommodation that we tested during our getaway.
Practical Information
- Getting there by train from Paris: the TGV INOUI journey runs directly from Paris Montparnasse station to Laval station in just 1h10 to 1h20
- The good deal: OUIGO connections are also available on this same line starting from €10
Upon arriving in Laval, I advise you to stop by the Mayenne Tourist Office to pick up documentation on the Coëvrons Mayenne Land of Art and History. The good deal: you’ll find free public restrooms there, which is very handy! Plus, Laval station is easily walkable from the office, which makes getting around much easier.
Destination Mayenne
84 Avenue Robert Buron, 53000 Laval
Table of Contents
Discovering Sainte-Suzanne and its surroundings
Certified as one of the most beautiful villages in France and a Petite Cité de Caractère, Sainte-Suzanne (which merged with Chammes) is a magnificent medieval town of 1,200 inhabitants perched on a rocky spur and located halfway between Le Mans and Laval, in the heart of the Coëvrons-Mayenne Land of Art and History. Surrounded by verdant hedgerows, it is the perfect place to wander and soak up local history. It occupies a strategic position that once earned it the nickname “Key to Maine”.
We loved strolling through its medieval paved streets by following the discovery trail, available on paper or via audio guide. It’s a great opportunity to push open the doors of lovely arts and crafts or local designer boutiques. And for sunset, make sure you head to Tertre Ganne! This magnificent spot, very popular with locals for having a drink, offers an unforgettable postcard view of the medieval fortress. You can drive there via the D9 towards Voutré or Torcé-Viviers, turning right after the Erve bridge, and then you can park in the parking lot and reach the spot after walking a few dozen meters.
Sainte-Suzanne Tourist Office – Les Coëvrons
1 Rue Jean de Bueil 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
_
What to see, what to do in Sainte-Suzanne?
As usual, in this section you will find a selection of ideas for things to see and do during your stay in Sainte-Suzanne, within the town as well as in its immediate surroundings.
_
Visit the fortress and the CIAP
Proudly dominating the Erve valley on its rocky spur, the fortified castle of Sainte-Suzanne houses an imposing Romanesque keep built around 1020, famous for being the only one to have successfully resisted William the Conqueror during a siege from 1083 to 1086. Purchased by the Mayenne department in 1998 and fitted out in 2009 after several years of restoration, the site now houses the Centre d’Interprétation de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (CIAP) within the Fouquet de la Varenne logis (17th century). This interactive and modern place presents the history, geography, archaeology, fauna, and flora of the department in a fun and interactive way (featuring touch and sound devices). The venue also offers temporary exhibitions, lectures, as well as educational tours and workshops all year round.
Sainte-Suzanne Castle & CIAP
9 rue Fouquet de la Varenne, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Prices: full price €4 / reduced price €2 / free for under-18s and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month
_
Take the Mills Walk
Starting at the foot of the medieval town of Sainte-Suzanne, the Promenade des Moulins trail runs alongside the Erve river. This easy route lets you discover the local hydraulic heritage, marked by the presence of old paper mills, flour mills, and tanning mills that forged the town’s industrial reputation. The circuit offers a wonderful perspective on the ramparts and the castle from the valley. It’s a lovely little walk that we personally did at the end of the day.
Promenade des Moulins
Duration: about 1h15 of walking (2 km loop)
Practical information: departure is easily accessible from the bottom of the village
_
Attend the Féodales de Clairbois
For total immersion in a medieval atmosphere, don’t miss the Féodales de Clairbois, a fantastic event organized by the association “La Mesnie de la Ferté-Clairbois” which brings together around fifty passionate volunteers. This estate, a reconstructed fortified farm, was bought a few years ago by a passionate couple who live there, maintain the site, and bring this reconstruction of a 13th-century fortified farm back to life.
On the program for the Féodales: period medieval encampments, equestrian shows, historical sketches, axe throwing, blacksmithing and calligraphy demonstrations, entertainment, not to mention free tours of their impressive keep (with tastings of recipes inherited from the Middle Ages)! A wonderful outing with family or friends to travel back through the centuries. In any case, we really fell in love with the event alongside the favorite photographer!
Les Féodales de Clairbois (Domaine de la Ferté Clairbois)
265 chemin de Clairbois, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Dates and times: every 2nd weekend of the month, from April to August (Saturdays from 2 PM to 7 PM and Sundays from 10 AM to 6 PM)
Prices: €8 per adult / free for children under 12 / Weekend pass at €12
_
My favorite addresses in Sainte-Suzanne
As usual, below you will find my selection of great gourmet addresses (several restaurants and a chocolate factory) as well as accommodation that we had the opportunity to test during our stay in Sainte-Suzanne with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and a few regional specialties to try if you come to Mayenne.
_
BIM Artisanal Chocolate Factory
Located a stone’s throw from the church, Charline Glédel‘s artisanal chocolate factory, opened in May 2024, is an absolute favorite. Charline practices the demanding art of “bean-to-bar” chocolate making, which is ultimately quite rare among French chocolatiers. She carefully selects her cocoa beans from small partner producers in Latin America and Africa to process them entirely in her workshop (sorting, roasting, cracking). Committed to fair trade and organic farming, she offers chocolates with a unique taste, free from any additives, along with workshops and immersive tours!
We were lucky enough to take one of the guided tours organized by the chocolate factory. It was very educational and allowed us to discover the chocolate-making method from the cocoa bean all the way to the bar. And of course, the tour ends with a tasting of the chocolate factory’s products.
BIM Artisanal Chocolate Factory
1 Grande Rue, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Guided tour prices: from €8 / reduced €5
_
Dinner at Le Clos de Loré
Located just outside the medieval village, this bistronomic restaurant has been run since August 29, 2025 by very young chef Kevin Letertre, a true social media star. Here, he serves delicious, creative, and generous cuisine made with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients in a warm atmosphere blending modern and antique touches. The address also operates as a cocktail bar and features a lovely terrace for sunny days. The venue also offers accommodation with several guest rooms in town, “Côté Jardin” (sleeping 15).
We tasted: the goat’s cheese muffin from the Chèvrerie du Pin with walnuts and honey vinaigrette; the caramelized onion and bacon panna cotta with seasonal pickles; the Domaine Abotia pork tenderloin with orange-infused carrot cream; and for dessert, the chocolate mousse with red praline crumble and the lemon-basil cheesecake with lime meringue.
Restaurant Le Clos de Loré
4 rue des Coëvrons, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Prices: starter + main course + dessert menu for 35 € / starter + main course or main course + dessert for 29 € / Great deal: set lunch menu (weekdays, Wednesday to Friday) starter + main course + dessert for 23 € and starter + main course or main course + dessert set for 19 €
_
Lunch at La Cabane de Carole restaurant
This brand-new pop-up establishment (open only during the summer season), located at the entrance of the medieval town, serves simple and generous cuisine in a friendly, guinguette-style atmosphere. Very open to the outdoors, it’s the perfect spot for lunch or drinks on sunny days (be careful though, winter can be chilly here as the space is very airy, and I shivered a bit!). On the menu: burgers, salads, grilled dishes, traditional or vegetarian daily specials, all made with local ingredients from Mayenne.
Restaurant La Cabane de Carole
16 place Ambroise de Loré, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Price: burger, salad, and grill set menus starting from 12 €
_
La Perle du Maine Crêperie
Located in the heart of the medieval village, this crêperie is perfect for a tasty break to enjoy excellent homemade buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes made with local produce. The welcome is extremely warm, set in an intimate and friendly space. We notably discovered a cider produced in Mayenne by the Ferme du Pressoir that was very good. My absolute favorite part of the meal was undoubtedly one of their sweet crêpes, the Tagliette Choc (9.90 €), a dessert featuring sliced crêpe ribbons and chocolate from Chocolaterie BIM which I mentioned earlier. Not to be missed—it’s honestly one of the best dessert crêpes I’ve ever tasted!
Crêperie La Perle du Maine
16 place Hubert II de Beaumont, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Prices: buckwheat galettes between 3.70 € and 13.90 € / wheat crêpes between 2.60 € and 9.90 €
_
Where to stay in Sainte-Suzanne? Le Gîte le Logis du Pressoir
For our stay, we dropped our bags at Logis du Pressoir, run by a particularly charming and thoughtful couple of hosts, Didier and Florence. Located at the foot of the historic center, this lovely village house sleeping 4 people (1 bedroom with a double bed downstairs and 2 single beds on the mezzanine) has been furnished and decorated with great taste, blending ancient stones with modern style. It’s a true cozy haven, featuring a fully equipped kitchen and a pleasant little private terrace for sunny days. A perfect base for exploring the village and its surroundings!
Gîte Le Logis du Pressoir
1 Rue du Pressoir, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
Prices: nightly rate from 79 € to 115 € depending on the season (optional cleaning fee of 60 €)
What to do around Sainte-Suzanne in the Coëvrons?
As usual, below you’ll find a selection of sightseeing ideas around Sainte-Suzanne (within a maximum radius of about 30/40 minutes by car), so having a vehicle is necessary to explore the area.
_
Évron and its surroundings
To continue your discovery of the Coëvrons, the charming town of Évron makes for a lovely stopover. It houses an exceptional monumental complex and serves as a great place to visit after Laval and Sainte-Suzanne to start exploring the historical and gastronomic highlights of the area.
_
Visiting the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-l’Épine in Évron
This building, blending Romanesque and Gothic architecture, offers a fascinating overview of medieval religious art. Listed as a Historic Monument, the basilica of Évron was built on the site of a 7th-century Benedictine abbey founded by Saint-Haldouin, Bishop of Le Mans, to house a sacred relic of the Virgin’s milk brought back from the Holy Land. Legend has it that a miracle occurred on a hawthorn bush, hence the name of the basilica.
Beneath the choir lies a 10th-century crypt, built over a thousand years ago and rediscovered by chance in 1974 following a vault collapse. In the 13th century, the monks undertook the construction of a Flamboyant Gothic church, but the turmoil of the Hundred Years’ War interrupted the work, leaving us today with this semi-Romanesque, semi-Gothic jewel. Inside the building, information kiosks and QR codes to scan let you follow an interactive tour that helps you better understand the architectural integration of the different construction periods.
Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-l’Épine in Évron
Place de la Basilique, 53600 Évron
Hours: open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM / Self-guided and free tour
_
My food spots in Évron
As usual, below you will find my selection of great gourmet addresses (2 shops) that we had the chance to test during our brief stop in Évron, where we picked up a few foodie souvenirs.
_
Fromagerie-Crémerie Chez Martinadette
This charming shop run by Aurore Regnault offers a lovely selection of nearly a hundred cheeses and dairy products. We received a very warm welcome and tasted and purchased an absolutely exquisite local cheese specialty: Douceur d’Anjou. A must-try address to fill your picnic basket or to bring back some local cheese!
Chez Martinadette
2 rue de la Perrière, 53600 Évron
_
Charcuterie-Traiteur Éric Collet
Recommended by cheese expert Aurore Regnault herself, Éric Collet is a craftsman who has been established in Évron since 2007. Listed in the Gault & Millau guide and named Master Craftsman in 2021, he is particularly renowned for his artisanal rillettes, which we tried and found to be to-die-for. He has collected prestigious awards, including a silver medal at the World Dry Sausage Championship (2018), the title of French Champion for the best grilled sausage (2021), and a gold medal for his cooked ham (2021)! A top-notch address to bring back delicious rillettes (4.90 € for the medium jar) and a few regional specialties.
Charcuterie Collet
6 Rue de Sainte-Gemmes, 53600 Évron
_
Mézangers
A few kilometers from Évron lies the charming village of Mézangers, renowned for its heritage and leisure area ideal for relaxation. A perfect bucolic stopover to treat yourself to some fresh air!
_
Strolling through the gardens of Château du Rocher
This beautiful architectural ensemble listed as a Historic Monument dates back to the 15th century. Built of granite, its majestic and romantic silhouette reflects in the water of a large pond bordering an English-style park. You can admire a sumptuous Renaissance gallery sculpted with mulberry trees and period faces, which is one of a kind. It is a private residence, but the exterior grounds and park are open to visitors during the warm season. A lovely legend hovers over the place, that of the “Green Lady” Éléonore de Bouillé, a huntress condemned to haunt the surroundings for eternity.
Château du Rocher
53600 Mézangers
Opening times: exteriors open to the public from June 15 to October 15 / Free and open access
_
Lunch at Le Relais du Gué de Selle
Nestled in a former stone farmhouse in Mayenne, this gourmet restaurant has been run by Anthony Detemmermann and Aurélie Di Gennaro since March 2019. Seated in a light-filled dining room overlooking a 50-hectare lake, we enjoyed a delicious medium-rare kidney prepared by the chef. The address also boasts an impressive rating of 12.5/20 in the Gault et Millau guide. To extend the experience, I highly recommend taking a digestive stroll around the body of water (an easy 3.2 km loop taking 45 minutes) either before or after your meal. This natural site is designated as a Natura 2000 area for its remarkable biodiversity.
Relais du Gué de Selle
34 Les Pêcheries, 53600 Mézangers
Restaurant prices: Découverte menu at 39 € (from Tuesday lunch to Saturday evening) / Good deal: weekday lunch bistro menu (Tuesday to Friday) starter + main course or main course + dessert for 19.90 € and the full “Inspiration Bistro” set menu for 26 €
The hotel: 3-star property featuring around thirty rooms
_
Getting up high at Montaigu Hill
Located in the commune of Hambers, just 10 km from Évron, this rounded hill peaks at an altitude of 291 meters, making it one of the highest elevations in the Coëvrons and eastern Mayenne. From the parking lot halfway up, a short 5 to 6-minute walk uphill will take you to the summit. From there, a lovely panoramic view unfolds over the surrounding bocage countryside. You will also discover the charming Saint-Michel chapel, built in 1402 by the lords of Château du Rocher, which once welcomed pilgrims on the Grand Chemin Montais (now waymarked as the GR®365). It is also a land of legends, notably that of the “Devil of Montaigu” who supposedly tried to build the hill to defy the Archangel Michael.
Montaigu Hill
53160 Hambers
Facilities: picnic table and bench at the summit / free and open access all year round
_
Notre-Dame des Champs
The Notre-Dame des Champs viewpoint (adorned with a statue of the Virgin Mary) is located in the commune of Saint-Georges-sur-Erve and offers a spectacular panorama of the Coëvrons in Mayenne. If you look closely, you can even catch a glimpse of the medieval town of Sainte-Suzanne in the distance! If you are driving through the area, it is a nice little stop/detour to admire the view!
Notre-Dame-des-Champs
La Gandonnière, 53600 Saint-Georges-sur-Erve
_
Saulges
Just a 20-minute drive from Sainte-Suzanne, the preserved site of Saulges and the Erve valley is a natural, historical, and archaeological treasure well worth discovering if you are in the region. Saulges is renowned for its natural heritage, featuring its boxwood forest, but above all for its 22 caves rediscovered in the 19th century. The emergence of prehistory as a historical science encouraged the development of cave-related tourism and the rise of hotel facilities in the village, traces of which can still be found today.
During a visit to this small village, don’t miss out on seeing Saulges’ very first church, the Carolingian Saint-Pierre church, built in the 8th century and undoubtedly one of the oldest in the region.
_
Visiting the Museum of Prehistory and the Caves of Saulges
In this valley, which boasts no fewer than 22 caves (including 4 with prehistoric remains), two are fitted out and open to the public via guided tours upon reservation (Margot and Rochefort). We first visited the Museum of Prehistory, which exhibits collections of tools, bones, and art objects unearthed in the department, featuring innovative digital tools (such as the 3D virtual tour of the Mayenne-Sciences cave).
Next, we took the guided tour of the Rochefort cave (allow about 40 minutes). This human-scale chasm houses an underground lake, superb concretions, and an active excavation site (the largest Upper Paleolithic site in France) in the cave’s main chamber. The temperature inside is around 13°C (making it ideal during a heatwave). Bring warm clothing and closed-toe shoes, and good physical fitness is required since descending (and climbing back!) 15 meters underground involves narrow passages and a miller’s ladder! The other accessible cavity is the Margot cave, famous for its Paleolithic engravings, though we didn’t have time to visit it this time around. That will be for next time.
Museum of Prehistory & Saulges Caves
650 Chemin de la Roche Brault, 53270 Thorigné-en-Charnie
Prices: tour of one cave at 12 € (reduced 8 €) with museum admission included / tour of both caves at 16 € (reduced 11 €) with museum admission included / self-guided museum visit only at 5 € (reduced 3.50 €), free for children under 5
Practical information for the caves: online booking mandatory for the caves (capacity limited to 15 people for Margot and 25 for Rochefort) / closed in winter (open from mid-March to mid-November)
_
Hiking trails and Saint-Cénéré Oratory
Near the caves, you will find the starting point of several hiking trails, notably leading to the stepping stones across the Erve. Finally, don’t miss heading either on foot via one of the trails or by car to the Saint-Cénéré Oratory, a charming place of worship and pilgrimage nestled in the rock, where a miraculous spring flows. This oratory (dating from the 19th century) was built on the spot where the hermit Ceneré, who came from Italy to evangelize Gaul, caused the famous miraculous spring to gush forth (still visible today). A cave, converted in 1903, is also located beneath the oratory. To this day, this oratory remains a pilgrimage site.
Saint-Cénéré Oratory
Montguyon, 53340 Saulges
_
Where to eat in Saulges? Le SaliCafé
Located in the village of Saulges, not far from the start of several hiking trails, Le SaliCafé is a retro-style village bistro. Run by Vincent Tellier, who welcomes you with a smile, the establishment serves tasty, homemade dishes prepared with love using fresh, local ingredients. The address also offers a very nice selection of wines to enjoy with your meal.
Bistrot-Restaurant Le SaliCafé
11 rue des deux églises, 53340 Saulges
Hours: open every lunch (weekly closure on Tuesday)
Prices: weekday lunch set menu at 16 € (starter, main course, and dessert) / evening and weekend menu at 22 €
_
Saint-Pierre-sur-Erve
Located not far from Saulges, Saint-Pierre-sur-Erve is a pretty village classified as a Petite Cité de Caractère, nestled in the hollow of the hills carved out by the Erve, ideal for a stroll by the water. There you will discover a superb medieval pedestrian bridge, and from mid-June to mid-September, you can enjoy the open-air contemporary art exhibition “In Situ à Saint-Pierre-sur-Rêve” which displays over 200 works by artists between June and September. It’s lovely and makes for a wonderful free walk to take in good weather.
Thank you to the Tourist Office of Sainte-Suzanne les Coëvrons, the entire departmental team of Mayenne, and Laurent from the AiRPur agency for the warm welcome and for organizing this stay to discover this beautiful region.
I hope all this has made you want to visit the Coëvrons, and if you too have your favorite addresses and tips for this Mayenne destination, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's permission is mandatory prior to any use
