I think I have a real love for the mountains and their breathtaking landscapes. So, I am always happy to go there for a short stay, like this long weekend last March when we discovered the superb 4-star Château de Candie hotel. The establishment is located between the Bauges massif, the Chartreuse, and the edge of the Jura foothills, on the heights of the city of Chambéry in Savoy. This region is nestled in the heart of the Alpine corridors, and it is also the land of good cheese and fine wine with its specific grape varieties (Mondeuse, Roussette, Gringet)—because we tend to forget it, but Savoy has been wine-growing land for 2,000 years!
_
Table of Contents
The Château de Candie
This 4-star hotel is housed in a 14th-century character residence, in the heart of a magnificent 6-hectare park with century-old trees and rare plant species. It is located on the heights of the city of Chambéry, a few minutes’ drive from the city center. The establishment is managed by the Madame Vacances group, which I have already mentioned several times on the blog.
This hotel has a lot of charm and has 28 rooms and suites in total, making it a small establishment that maintains a certain intimacy. In any case, it’s truly a place I recommend for a romantic getaway! Inside the hotel, there are also two restaurants: a gourmet restaurant and a slightly more affordable brasserie, which I will talk about further down in the article.
And for warmer days, you can also enjoy the swimming pool (which was not the case for us since it was quite cold when we went).
Another very nice point: back in the days of the Candie family, the property was surrounded by vines, and for centuries, wine was produced on-site. The vines were unfortunately entirely destroyed in 1879, and the château decided again in 2003 to replant the vineyard on its southern slope, with Viognier as the main grape variety. You can even taste the estate’s wine when you are there.
How to get there?
As for practical information, it will take you just over 3 hours by TGV to arrive in Chambéry from Paris, and there are no fewer than 6 direct daily TGV connections, which is quite convenient!
_
Our room, #104
I really liked our room; it was very spacious, with a lovely view, the bed was comfortable, and we had a large marble bathtub!!! We obviously took the opportunity to take a small series of “jumping on the bed” photos (the bed is fine, rest assured).
The little extra: among the products offered with the courtesy tray, we found Café Folliet (which is a local company, a roaster since 1880), which supplies tea and coffee to local establishments.
Rates: Prestige room with bathtub and shower, €320 per night (breakfast included in the room price).
_
Breakfast
Breakfast is served as a buffet in the brasserie dining room, which I talk about right below. There is a good selection of local products such as a nice variety of cheeses and yogurts made in Savoy.
_
La Cantine de Candie Brasserie Restaurant
This restaurant offers a simple and fast menu in the heart of the Château, with local cuisine, which can be a good solution if you want to eat at the Château for a reasonable price during the week.
To taste: Crémant de Savoie (€7 per glass); for wine, the 2017 Mondeuse “Arbin” from Savoy (€25 per bottle)
La Cantine de Candie open from Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner Menu at €21 with starter + main course + dessert Wine by the glass between €6 and €8
_
Take a cooking class with the Chef of the l’Orangerie restaurant
I highly recommend this experience because we absolutely loved this cooking morning with the favorite photographer! We started this workshop in the morning in the restaurant’s kitchens. It was the perfect opportunity to discover the behind-the-scenes of a gourmet restaurant and watch the kitchen brigade in action at the start of the day. During this workshop, with the Chef’s help of course, we prepared a dish that we later enjoyed for lunch. We also made part of the dessert with the Chef. Since the Chef is of Italian origin, we were lucky enough to learn how to make Capelletti ferraresi with cream and Timut pepper. A killer!
This moment was mainly an opportunity to chat with the Chef and learn some professional cooking techniques, which are always very useful. We then had the pleasure of tasting the menu, consisting of a starter prepared by the Chef, our main course, and the dessert made during the workshop. Plus, the icing on the cake, it was sunny, and we were able to have appetizers on the restaurant terrace!
To accompany the menu, the restaurant’s sommelier offered us a tasting of very interesting wines from the region.
Gourmet Workshop at l’Orangerie + meal: €119 per person (by reservation only)
_
The l’Orangerie gourmet restaurant
This is the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, and if you are staying at the Château, I strongly advise you to treat yourself to at least one meal there, as the food is truly excellent. Furthermore, the setting is perfect for a romantic dinner.
To taste: semi-smoked trout from the Isère; organic hen egg; small boat squid; the indulgence around the Richuaelo plantation chocolate.
My advice: don’t miss the cheese trolley which contains only refined Savoy cheeses: Beaufort, Tome des Bauges, Reblochon, Tomme de Savoie…
Restaurant l'Orangerie
Château de Candie
open Wednesday to Sunday from 7:00 PM to 9:30 PM / Saturday & Sunday from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM and from 7:00 PM to 9:30 PM / closed Monday and Tuesday (all day)
Price: Inspiration Menu with starter + main course + cheese + dessert at €51
Saveurs Menu with starter + main course + cheese or dessert at €45
Ballades Gourmandes Menu with 7 courses at €80 (served for the entire table)_
Well-being massage in-room with Nêsens
What a pleasure to be able to get a massage directly in your hotel room! We tested the one-hour personalized duo massage offer with the favorite photographer, and we came out feeling completely relaxed. The massage therapists brought their equipment with them into the room, and the setup was quite quick. They even provide relaxing background music during the massage.
Rates: 60-minute duo massage for 2 people €160 (book at the hotel reception)
Hôtel Château de Candie 533 rue du Bois de Candie 73000 Chambéry Rate for a comfort room for 2 people from €156
_
Things to do/see in the Chambéry area
We obviously took advantage of this stay to do some sightseeing, and below I provide a small selection of ideas for places to visit, things to see and do, and some good addresses in the area.
_
Visit the city of Chambéry
This former capital of the Dukes of Savoy does not lack attractions. Indeed, this city of art and history, set in a landscape of lakes and mountains, has long been ignored by tourists and was often just a transit city (I must say that I myself passed through several times to go to the Alps without really stopping). Today, we can feel a desire to develop more local tourism by offering activities to do on-site.
I was particularly charmed by its pretty pedestrian streets, dotted with gourmet addresses like the Fruitière d’Augustin (to buy local cheeses) or the delicatessen La Fine Bouche. They stock beers from the Brasserie du Mont Blanc, which I really like. I also recommend you discover the Wool Mood workshop-boutique, a place exclusively dedicated to wool that offers 100% made-in-Savoy creations.
_
Take a guided tour with the tourist office
To fully understand the history of this city, completely linked to Italy (especially Piedmont) through the territory of the House of Savoy (one of the oldest and longest-reigning European dynasties, and which did not become French until 1860), it is better to be guided by a local to discover the rich heritage of the city. During this tour, we notably learned that the city is built on stilts because Chambéry is crossed by three underground rivers!
To see:
- the Château of the Dukes of Savoy and its Sainte Chapelle which once housed the Holy Shroud (from 1502 to 1578) before it left for Turin,
- the Elephant Fountain and the story of General de Boigne,
- the old pedestrian center with its colored façades, its types of passages between two streets (a bit like in Lyon) named “les allées” by the residents of Chambéry,
- the Italian-style mansions,
- the Center for Architecture and Heritage Interpretation located in the Hôtel de Cordon.
Guided tour with a lecturer guide from the City of Art & History service Rates: €6 / reduced €4.5 Online reservation at Chambéry Tourism Duration: 1h30 saturdays and Sundays at 2:30 PM, departure in front of the Hôtel de Cordon
_
Visit the Château of the Dukes of Savoy
The complex, which was originally the seat of power for the House of Savoy, now houses the Departmental Council and the Prefecture, but a small part of the castle, the former Accounts Chamber, is open to the public for tours. It features two rooms presenting the turbulent history of the castle, as well as some objects, coins, illuminated manuscripts, drawings and prints, models, and other archival documents. If you want to visit the rest of the castle and the Sainte Chapelle that I mentioned earlier, this can only be done via a paid guided tour with a lecturer guide.
Château des Ducs de Savoie Free entry Tuesday to Friday from 1:30 PM to 6:00 PM / Saturday and Sunday (and in July and August from Tuesday to Sunday) from 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM
_
Visit the small village of Chanaz
Attention, like in Chamonix, you don’t pronounce the last letter, so you will need to say “Chana” if you don’t want to be corrected by the locals. This charming little village is located on the edge of the Savière canal and is particularly renowned for its crafts. Its strategic position (between Lake Bourget and the Rhône) has made it a hotspot for smuggling since the 17th century. The village is also located at the northern end of Lake Bourget and is nicknamed the Little Savoyard Venice because of its canals. Below, I offer you several good addresses and places to visit if you come for a walk in Chanaz.
_
The Chanaz Oil Mill
When you enter the mill, you immediately smell the wonderful aromas of walnuts and hazelnuts. Built in 1868, it reopened after 40 years of slumber to find a new youth and its original vocation. Overlooking the village, this 19th-century mill is the last of the three mills that Chanaz once boasted.
This visit is an opportunity to discover a craft of yesteryear that is disappearing: miller. You can discover the production of walnut and hazelnut oil, as well as an explanation of the miller’s profession. And of course, there is a small shop that sells the mill’s products.
Le Moulin de Chanaz Chemin de la Fontaine 73310 Chanaz
_
The Chanaz Roastery
Located in the “Le Fort” hamlet, in a former 15th-century coaching inn, the village roaster opens its doors to visitors and speaks passionately about his craft. It is a real pleasure to smell the lovely aromas of coffee when you walk into the roastery! You can also have a small coffee tasting and buy some products to take home at the end of the visit.
Brûlerie de Chanaz, artisan roaster 82, montée du Fort 73310 Chanaz The tip: 10% discount on the website with the code CLIENT10
_
The Chanaz Brewery
We didn’t have much time to stop there, but there is also a craft brewery in the village if you are a beer lover.
Brasserie les bières du Biez 136 route du canal 73310 Chanaz
_
Take a short trip to Aix-les-Bains
Also called the Riviera of the Alps, the city of Aix-les-Bains and the shores of Lake Bourget (the largest natural lake in France) are a very good option for a walk not far from the hotel. Indeed, the view of this lake surrounded by mountains is beautiful. I especially recommend going there if the weather is nice. The spa town also offers some beautiful buildings and significant Belle Époque historical heritage.
My advice: on the road, stop at the point Grande Molliere on the Tresserve hill for a superb panoramic viewpoint of Lake Bourget.
_
Where to eat by Lake Bourget? At the Bistrot du Port
The food at this establishment is decent and fresh, probably a bit expensive, but that’s the price to pay to eat by the lake, apparently…
The little extra: very nice terrace for warmer days with a view of the boat masts.
Le Bistrot du Port 2, boulevard Robert Barrier Le Grand Port 73100 Aix-les-Bains
_
Thanks to Madame Vacances, the Château de Candie, and Links Communication for this invitation and this beautiful discovery.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover the Château de Candie, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips in Savoy, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not royalty-free, authorization from the photographer mandatory before any use
