I really love La Rochelle, this port city in Charente-Maritime (Nouvelle-Aquitaine) whose past is still very much visible, with its 3 towers proudly recalling the history of this fishing town. It’s a city I’ve already been to several times, and at least twice with my favorite photographer. The first time was a really long time ago during the Francofolies (the city’s famous music festival), and I also went back several years ago for a short weekend. We then went together with my favorite photographer for a 3-day long weekend for the first time in October 2017, and later on a longer trip around the Charentes in July 2026.
Plan your stay
Our hotels in La Rochelle
Hotels where we stayed
Hôtel Saint-Nicolas ★★★★
In the centre, near the Vieux-Port, with a breakfast of local products.
La Monnaie Art & Spa Hôtel ★★★★
An inner garden and rooms with classic or contemporary decor.
Hôtel François 1er ★★★
Street art, original decor and a relaxed atmosphere.
Partner links: Booking. These partner links allow us to earn a commission, at no extra cost to you, and to support our work. For greater transparency…This selection contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through them, the partner website may pay us a small commission.
Table of Contents
Practical info for getting to La Rochelle
In 2017, since train tickets were a bit too expensive for my taste, we went by car (allow about 4h30 of driving from Paris), so it wasn’t worth making the trip for less than 3 days. I think 3 or 4 days is the right format for a little getaway to La Rochelle if you’re taking the car.
In 2026, on the other hand, we took the train (TGV) from Paris Montparnasse station, and you need to allow about 3h to reach La Rochelle station.
What to see and do in La Rochelle
As usual, I’m sharing a little selection of ideas for outings, visits, basically things to do (pretty much everything is within walking distance) to discover the destination. Of course, I also strongly recommend taking the time to stroll around the city, especially near the old harbor, because it’s a very pleasant area for wandering.
_
Take a boat trip to Fort Boyard with Croisières Inter-Iles
The boat companies in La Rochelle offer plenty of options for cruises or island stopovers, with regular connections to the islands of Ré, Aix and Oléron, and a chance to see Fort Boyard from the sea along the way. We were very lucky, because the weather was gorgeous during our little outing at sea, unlike the following days. There are several trips, but since we were short on time, we opted for the sea cruise with the guided tour around Fort Boyard (about 2h).
My tip: I recommend booking your cruise online in advance (especially in busy periods), otherwise you risk being left on the dock and unable to board…
Excursion done in 2017
Croisières Inter-Iles
Departure point at the old harbor
Sea cruise with guided tour around Fort Boyard: duration 2h
Book a boat trip For a more transparent world…If you book a tour by clicking this link, the site will send us a small commission directly. It has no impact on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you 🙂
Prices: 23,50 € for adults / 18 € for students / 15,50 € for children aged
4 to 17 / 6 € under 4
_
Visit the Towers of La Rochelle
These towers were part of the city’s fortification system, begun in the 14th century under the reign of Charles V. Fortunately, they were spared by Richelieu after the Great Siege of the city (1627-1628).
They are currently managed by the CMN (Centre des Monuments Nationaux), and the ticket gives access to the Chain Tower and the Lantern Tower, as the Saint-Nicolas Tower is closed until further notice. Personally, I’d rather recommend visiting all of them, but of course it depends on how much time you have and how much you enjoy this kind of visit. The little bonus is that once you’re at the top of the towers, you get a superb view over the city and the sea, which can be quite nice. For your information, there was a temporary exhibition called Les Chambres des Merveilles in the Saint-Nicolas Tower when we visited in 2017.
My tip: to visit all 3 towers when they are all open, I recommend allowing at least 2h30 in total in a single day (you can take breaks and visit the 3 towers at different times of the day with the combined ticket)
Visit done in 2017
Towers of La Rochelle
Vieux-Port, 17000 La Rochelle
From 1 October to 31 March: 10am to 12:45pm and 2pm to 5:30pmOpening hours for the other seasons on the official website
The Saint-Nicolas Tower is closed until further notice; the Chain and Lantern towers remain open
2026 price for the two towers: 9,50 € / free for under-18s, 18-25 year-olds who are EU nationals or regular residents of France, and job seekers (with proof)
Official information and ticketing
_
Visit the La Rochelle Aquarium
To visit the Aquarium, I recommend booking your tickets online in advance on their official website (you can show them directly on your smartphone) so you can skip the ticket-office queue and walk straight in, which saves precious time!
As for the Aquarium itself, it’s a visit I recommend doing with family or as a couple like we did, because there’s so much to see! Plus, the little walk (again, very easy to reach on foot) to the building that houses the Aquarium is really lovely.
Visit done in 2017
La Rochelle Aquarium
Quai Louis Prunier, 17000 La Rochelle
Prices : 18,50 € adult / 12,50 € child (3-12 years old)
My selection of places to stay in La Rochelle
Here are a few great addresses I discovered in La Rochelle during our various stays in the city, including three really beautiful hotels.
The Saint-Nicolas hotel
The Saint-Nicolas hotel (a 4-star boutique hotel) is very well located in the center of La Rochelle, not far from the harbor. We stayed in room 225, a small, quiet room that was very well laid out and perfectly practical for a short stay. There was a welcome tray with a kettle, tea and herbal teas (I like to point that out because it’s not always the case). Another little bonus: a carafe in the room that you can fill with still or sparkling water at the water fountains (there’s one on every floor).
Breakfast was also very good quality, with lots of local products (notably Le Roche’lait yogurts), scrambled eggs and real Palais des Thés tea. It’s truly a lovely address that I warmly recommend for a stay in La Rochelle.
Hotel tested in 2026
Hôtel Saint-Nicolas ☆☆☆☆
13 rue Sardinerie, 17000 La Rochelle
Book your stay → For a more transparent world…If you book through this link, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's a way to support our work and our upcoming features.
_
La Monnaie Art & Spa Hôtel
This boutique hotel, right in the historic heart of La Rochelle, is particularly well located for a stay in the city. In April 2017, La Monnaie Art & Spa, a member of the TemptingPlaces boutique hotel label (several of whose hotels I’ve already shared on the blog after being lucky enough to try them out), expanded by adding 5 new rooms in “Les Loges de La Monnaie”, a former 19th-century shipowners’ house, adjoining the main building and given a fresh, modern update.
For sunny days, the hotel also has a very charming little inner garden where it’s lovely to just sit and relax. In this new annex that we tested during our stay, a soft scent of roses fills the air, paying tribute to the classic style of the Rochelais shipowners’ townhouses and drawing inspiration from the hushed atmosphere of the literary salons of the time. The pastel and maritime tones create a warm, neo-classical atmosphere. This part of the hotel contrasts completely with the rest of the property, which has a much more modern, even downright contemporary style! As proof, see the photo above of a room with modern design in the other part of the hotel.
Our prestige double room in Les Loges de la Monnaie
Of course, this was the perfect occasion for a little photo session and some jumping on the bed… You can imagine…
The little bonus: being able to watch Netflix on the room’s TV (which let us keep up with the series we were in the middle of :p)
The Breakfast Buffet
Good to know: parking is paid, but it’s fairly easy (at least when we went) to park for free not too far from the hotel (don’t hesitate to ask the front desk for advice)
Hotel tested in 2017
Hôtel La Monnaie ☆☆☆☆
3 rue de la Monnaie 17000 La Rochelle
Our double prestige room: rates between 68 € and 149 € depending on the season
Link to book a room For a more transparent world…If you book a room by clicking this link, the site will pay us a small commission directly. It has no impact on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you :)
_
L’Hôtel François 1er
Another really great hotel in La Rochelle, the François 1er is a friend to street artists. The couple who own the place very often invite artists in residence to create works inside and outside the hotel. You can even buy a few original street art pieces on site (calling all art lovers).
Our Room 410
So of course we loved the decor of the place, of our room, and the super laid-back atmosphere all around. This time no jumping on the bed (the ceiling was a bit low), but pillow fights instead (you have to know how to mix up the fun).
The Breakfast Buffet
Breakfast price: 11 € / person
Good to know: parking is paid, but it’s fairly easy (at least when we went) to park right in front of the hotel.
Hotel tested in 2017
Hôtel François 1er ☆☆☆
15 Rue Bazoges, 17000 La Rochelle
Rates: from 74 € to 179 € depending on the room and the season
Link to book a room For a more transparent world…If you book a room by clicking this link, the site will pay us a small commission directly. It has no impact on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you :)
My selection of great food & drinks spots in La Rochelle
Here are a few great spots I discovered in La Rochelle during our various stays in the city, with a few restaurants for a good meal and a cool cocktail bar too!
La Fabuleuse Cantine
I already knew La Fabuleuse Cantine, which I had tried in Saint-Étienne and which you can also find in La Rochelle near the Maritime Museum. The group is committed to organic and local ingredients, with fish from the La Rochelle fish auction served aboard the Bar de la Mer (which I’ll tell you about just below), while La Fabuleuse Cantine, on land, goes for a very vegetarian approach.
Spot tested in 2026
La Fabuleuse Cantine
Place Bernard Moitessier, 17000 La Rochelle
Le France 1, Bar de la Mer
So we decided to have lunch on the deck of the France 1, at the Bar de la Mer, which is also run by La Fabuleuse Cantine that I told you about just above. It’s a super original spot for a seaside lunch! We settled in on the deck of this former weather ship, where the menu celebrates seafood (shrimp, gambas, fish and even seafood rillettes).
The Bar de la Mer is a seasonal spot, open from April to September, while La Fabuleuse Cantine welcomes guests all year round (there has been a restaurant on board for 25 years, taken over 8 years ago by the La Fabuleuse Cantine group). On a beautiful sunny day, it’s a great offbeat place for lunch.
Spot tested in 2026
Le France 1, Bar de la Mer
Musée maritime, place Bernard Moitessier, 17000 La Rochelle
Seasonal spot: check the opening dates before you come
Cocktail bar Le Mary Lili
The Mary Lili opened in July 2019 in the historic center of La Rochelle, very close to the Vieux-Port. You can order a classic, discover the creations of the moment, or ask for a cocktail based on what you’re in the mood for. It’s a great spot for cocktail lovers, and on top of that the team is super friendly!
Spot tested in 2026
Le Mary Lili
20 rue de la Chaîne, 17000 La Rochelle
Restaurant Les Fils à Maman
I’ve known the Bonbonnière restaurants since the very beginning of my blog, having already tried several of their spots in Paris, and we took advantage of our time in La Rochelle to discover the Sunday brunch at their restaurant right in the heart of the city. The brunch comes as a special menu every Sunday with a savory part and a sweet part. And then there’s that unmistakable 80s decor found in most of the brand’s restaurants, with a TV playing the opening credits of the cartoons from my childhood in the restrooms. I’m a fan!
Must-tries: Uncle Jesse’s plate with eggs, bacon, sausages and herb-sautéed potatoes (17 €); the club sandwich with chicken, bacon, cheddar, tomatoes and fries (16 €); the salted butter caramel French toast (8 €); fresh Ulti fruit juices (4,50 €)
Les Fils à Maman La Rochelle
59 Rue St Jean du Pérot, 17000 La Rochelle
_
Le Comptoir Saoufé
On the evening of my birthday (because that was also the reason for this little weekend getaway in 2017), we had a wonderful time in this lovely little restaurant (and wine bar) serving regional products, especially from the sea. We feasted on oysters and seafood…
Spot tested in 2017
Le Comptoir Saoufé
12 Rue du Port, 17000 La Rochelle
Info and bookings
_
Thanks to the hotel les Loges de La Monnaie Art & Spa and to the Charentes Tourisme tourist office for the invitation and the warm welcome in 2017, and to the Charentes tourist office for the 2026 stay!
I hope that with all of this I’ve made you want to discover La Rochelle, and if you have your own great spots and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photos are not royalty-free; the photographer’s permission is required before any use
