I have always dreamed of Scotland. It might be a bit too long and perhaps even too personal for me to explain why, but I have a very deep connection to this country, even though I had never been there before… So I was both excited at the idea of discovering it and, of course, anxious about being disappointed by this much-desired region. That region is a very specific part of Scotland: the Highlands. These lands at the edge of Great Britain are windy and rainy, with a striking quality of light that you rarely see anywhere else. Because there, even under grey clouds, a certain light transfigures the landscapes.
There is so much to say about these expanses that I hardly know where to begin… What perhaps struck me the most in Scotland, ultimately, was the warmth of the Scottish welcome. The word Welcoming truly takes on its full meaning there. I felt welcome everywhere, and you just want to spend hours in every restaurant, in every tea room, simply taking your time and enjoying the present moment. In this first article, I will do my best to give you a short list of my suggested things to do in the Inverness region during the winter season. In a second article, I will take a closer look at Scottish gastronomy (yes, I know you, I know you are utter foodies).
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Table of Contents
Going for hikes around Inverness
I suggest a few hiking ideas on the other side of the Loch—that is to say, the one renowned for being more “natural” and wilder. It is also a bit less inhabited and less frequented by tourists. It is therefore the dream spot for a few hikes. Of course, the Scottish winter is quite cold, and I don’t advise you to go on overly long walks, but dressed warmly, you should easily survive the short strolls I’m suggesting below.
Walk to the top of Suidhe Chuimen Hill
Starting from Loch Tarff, a few kilometers past Fort Augustus, the Suidhe Point trail offers an extraordinary view of the region and is the highest point of an 18th-century military road. The climb up to the viewpoint is quite easy if you drive there via the road and takes no more than 30 minutes, so it is definitely worth the trip to see the scenery!
Stroll to the Falls of Foyers
This short walk through the forest lets you admire the Falls of Foyers, which heavily inspired Scotland’s most famous poet, Robert Burns, and rank among the top 10 most beautiful waterfalls in Scotland, plunging over 50 meters into a rocky gorge. The falls are located on the River Foyers, which flows down from the Monadhliath Mountains to empty into Loch Ness.
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Attending a show or concert in Inverness
In Paris I go out a lot (too much, yes I know), but after all, why not go out too when exploring a foreign city? With my little companions, we went to listen to the Viennese Gala by the Royal Scottish National Orchestra at the Eden Court performance venue. Located in the heart of the city, this spot is the first and largest entertainment venue in the north of Scotland.
Eden Court Bishops Road Inverness IV3 5SA Concert price: £23
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Going horseback riding around Inverness
It was at Borlum Farm that I indulged in the joys of horseback riding. This riding center, located on the shores of Loch Ness just 20 minutes from Inverness, has been offering numerous horseback rides adjusted to your skill level since 1963, with a herd of over 30 horses.
Well, you might say Scottish horses look more like big ponies, so we ended up having a rather relaxed ride, but it was very pleasant, and with scenery of such beauty and Loch Ness down below, you are bound to have a great time.
Borlum Farm Drumnadrochit, By Inverness, IV63 6XN
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Listening to Scottish legends
Many legends and stories circulate throughout the Highlands, and it’s wonderful to listen to Scottish ghost stories in the evening by the fireside, told by locals. Like the legend surrounding author and poet Aleister Crowley, who apparently practiced black magic in the 19th century at his lakeside home on Loch Ness, Boleskine House—subsequently rumored to be haunted, of course—which burned down just two weeks before we visited. A mere coincidence, I am sure…
Similarly, the character apparently held a few black masses in the neighboring cemetery, Boleskine Cemetery, which has also inherited quite a peculiar reputation (not far from there you can discover the Falls of Foyers that I mentioned just above)…
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Mountain biking in the Inverness forest
Boots n Paddles is a company specializing in outdoor activities on this side of Scotland. They offer all kinds of activities like canoeing, kayaking, archery, mountain biking, abseiling, etc. There are many trails reserved for mountain biking in the forest around the loch, and that’s the option we chose.
On site, Boots n Paddles takes care of all the equipment, from the mountain bike to the helmet, including gloves and even a backpack to protect your belongings from the mud (well, considering the speed I was going at, I didn’t really need it, but anyway…). This mountain biking interlude was certainly not my most glorious moment of the trip, but I did my best, and the landscapes we rode through were well worth a few hours of sweat.
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Taking a cruise on Loch Ness
Actually, I realized upon arriving that I had a very mistaken vision of Loch Ness, which is nonetheless one of the best-known lakes in the world. I was expecting a big round lake when, in truth, it is quite elongated and stretches for nearly 36.4 km.
On the shores of the lake, you can also see the Nessie Hunter‘s cabin, a guy who apparently abandoned everything to dedicate his life to searching for the monster and who waits patiently for it to show the tip of its nose… Regarding cruises on the loch, two boat companies share the body of water, each covering a distinct geographical section. There are cruises lasting between 1 hour and 3 hours depending on what you prefer.
Loch Ness with Jacobite
The one I tried, the Jacobite fleet, has been operating since 1975 and makes it very convenient to travel as far as Urquhart Castle, for example.
Inside the boat, a guide explains the history of the loch and its mysteries in several languages. Indeed, its glacial depths (reaching up to 230 m), which house many species, have always prevented a complete sonar scan of the lake, which naturally fuels the myth of Nessie (the affectionate nickname given to the Loch Ness monster).
I also learned on this occasion that the legend of Nessie is very old, since the first mention of a monster in the lake dates back to the 6th century, with the visit to these shores by Saint Columba, an Irish missionary who came to Christianize the Highlands.
The boat also features a sonar with a screen on board that picks up and displays shapes and movements beneath us. I also recommend taking advantage of the trip to grab a little local beer branded with Nessie at the boat’s bar. But I will tell you more about all of that in detail in my Inverness food tour.
Inspiration Cruise on Loch Ness (Jacobite Cruises)
Dochgarroch Lock, Inverness IV3 8JG
Prices: 2-hour cruise on Loch Ness starting from £26
Good deal: free for children under 5
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Visiting Urquhart Castle
If you’re heading to the Inverness region, you mustn’t miss the chance to visit the ruins of this historical site, a medieval fortress that has witnessed many battles unfolding at its feet. The castle was indeed an important strategic point for royal armies and clans alike, passing back and forth between them over the centuries until its destruction in 1692. Alongside the ruins, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the loch.
I also recommend completing your visit with the visitor centre, where you can watch a short film (don’t worry, there’s a French version available if you’re less confident in English) summarizing the history of Urquhart Castle, as well as a permanent exhibition on the subject, grab a coffee, and do a bit of shopping if you feel like it.
Urquhart Castle open daily, hours vary by season Prices: £8.50 for adults / £5.10 for children
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Discovering the Scottish-style massage
It was at the Kingsmills Hotel spa that I discovered this famous massage which I’ve renamed the “Scottish-style massage“. This term, coined by me (yes, I’m very proud of it), is completely personal, but having tested quite a few different spas and massages so far, I think I can safely say that the Scots have a rather “deep-tissue” style.
Being someone who is rather tense, stressed, and anxious, the poor masseuse really went to town on my internal knots in my upper back, and I have to say I definitely felt it. Afterwards, though, it was remarkably effective, and she managed to release some long-standing tension. The Kingsmills Hotel is a 4-star establishment located in the Inverness Highlands. It’s also an important historical spot for the city, as the building dates back to the 18th century.
The Kingsmills Hotel & Kingsclub Culcabock Road, Inverness, Scotland, IV2 3LP
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Visiting a whisky distillery
I won’t go into too much detail on this part here, as I’ll obviously be covering it more thoroughly in the article on Scottish gastronomy, but if you’re heading to the Highlands, you absolutely must visit a distillery. Even if you don’t like whisky, the explanation of how this traditional Scottish spirit is made is genuinely fascinating.
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Scottish B&Bs
You know that when it comes to accommodation, I really appreciate staying in local homes. I already wrote an article for you about guest houses in Belgium, and Great Britain is the birthplace of this concept with the famous bed & breakfasts.
For my part, it was at a charming B&B, Daviot Lodge, that I discovered the Inverness region. First of all, the great thing about this kind of place is that you immediately feel “at home“; you can curl up by the fire to drink tea and read a book after returning from a short excursion, the rooms are super cosy, and Margaret and Alex look after your well-being throughout your stay. The only minor downside to our stay was the difficulty in connecting to the local Wi-Fi, but hey, let’s just say you don’t go to Scotland to spend your time on your computer or phone (unless you’re a blogger, of course)…
Another huge plus for this address is the breakfast—simply incredible. You can order whatever you fancy for the next morning the night before (though be careful not to let your eyes be bigger than your stomach). I warmly recommend letting yourself be tempted by local specialties and trying the Scottish breakfast, which mostly features savoury items like black pudding, sausages, eggs, bacon, mushrooms, smoked fish, etc.
Price: between £68 and £120 per night depending on the room and season.
Daviot Lodge Luxury 5 Gold Star Bed & Breakfast Daviot Lodge, Daviot, Inverness, IV2 5ER
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What to pack for Scotland
- An adapter for electrical plugs, otherwise your devices will quickly run out of juice…
- A warm, waterproof jacket (forget your umbrella, it won’t be of any use unless you want it to break).
- Wool socks to keep your feet warm.
- Warm clothing (a thick jumper, maybe some tights to wear under your trousers, gloves, and a beanie).
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Useful information for Scotland
- There is a one-hour time difference with France.
- The currency is the pound sterling, just like in England (£1 = roughly €1.40).
- Great Britain is not part of the Schengen area, which means there is border control when you come from France. A passport is not mandatory for French citizens, but you must at least have your identity card.
- In the Highlands, some Scots still speak Gaelic, and you’ll see this language on certain signs indicating the historical name of a place, for example.
- For all kinds of useful info before you set off, I recommend taking a look at VisitBritain and VisitInverness.
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I’d also like to take this opportunity to thank VisitInverness for welcoming us so warmly, as well as my fantastic travel buddies: Virginie B from Fais-toi la Belle, Valentine from Hello it’s Valentine, and David from Voyager Loin.
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I hope all of this has inspired you to discover Scotland and the Inverness region, and if you also have your own great tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles about my trips to Great Britain below:
⇒ All my articles about Great Britain
⇒ All my articles about Scotland
⇒ All my articles about Inverness
MY ARTICLES ON INVERNESS (2016)
⇒ Discovering the Inverness region
⇒ Food Tour in Inverness
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan, Virginie B. and Hello Valentine Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission required prior to any use
