I have always dreamed of Scotland. It would be a bit too long, perhaps even too personal, to explain why, but I have a very deep connection with this country, even though I had never been there before… So, I was at once excited to discover it and, of course, anxious about being disappointed by this much-desired region. This region is a very specific part of Scotland: the Highlands. These lands at the edge of Great Britain, windy, rainy, with a piercing light like you rarely see elsewhere. Because there, even under gray clouds, a certain light transfigures the landscapes.
There is so much to say about these expanses that I don’t know where to start… What struck me perhaps the most, in the end, in Scotland, is the warmth of the Scottish welcome. The word welcoming takes on its full meaning there. I felt welcome everywhere, and you just want to spend hours in every restaurant, every tea room, just to take your time and appreciate the present moment. In this first article, I will try to provide a short list of my suggestions for things to do in the Inverness region during the winter season. In a second article, I will take a closer look at Scottish gastronomy (yes, I know you, I know you are true gourmets).
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Table of Contents
Going hiking around Inverness
I have a few hiking ideas for you on the other side of the Loch, the one known for being more “natural” and wilder. It is also a bit less inhabited and less frequented by tourists. It is therefore the dream place for some hikes. Of course, the Scottish winter is quite cold, and I don’t advise doing walks that are too long, but if you’re well-dressed, you should be able to survive the short walks I suggest below.
Walk at the top of Mount Suidhe Chuimen
Starting from Loch Tarff, a few km after Fort Augustus, the Suidhe Point trail offers an extraordinary view of the region, and it is the highest point of a military road built in the 18th century. The climb to the viewpoint is quite easy if you come by car via the road and takes no more than 30 minutes, so it is definitely worth the trip to see the landscape!
Walk to the Falls of Foyers
This short walk in the forest allows you to admire the Falls of Foyers, which greatly inspired the most famous Scottish poet, Robert Burns, and which are among the 10 most beautiful waterfalls in Scotland, plunging more than 50 meters into a rocky gorge. The falls are located on the River Foyers, which flows down from the Monadhliath Mountains to feed into Loch Ness.
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Attending a show or concert in Inverness
In Paris, I go out a lot (too much, yes I know), but in the end, why not go out when exploring a foreign city? With my little group, we went to listen to the Viennese Gala of the Royal Scottish National Orchestra at the Eden Court performance hall. Located in the heart of the city, this venue is the first and largest performing arts venue in the north of Scotland.
Eden Court Bishops Road Inverness IV3 5SA Concert price: £23
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Going horseback riding in the surroundings of Inverness
It was at Borlum Farm that I indulged in the joys of horseback riding. This school, located on the shores of Loch Ness just 20 minutes from Inverness, has been offering numerous horseback rides adjusted to your level since 1963, with more than 30 horses.
Well, you might say, Scottish horses look more like big ponies, so we had a rather quiet, but very pleasant ride. Plus, in such beautiful scenery, with Loch Ness below, you can only have a good time.
Borlum Farm Drumnadrochit, By Inverness, IV63 6XN
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Hearing Scottish legends
Many legends and stories circulate in the Highlands, and it is interesting to listen to Scottish ghost stories in the evening by the fire, told by the locals. Like this legend surrounding author and poet Aleister Crowley, who apparently practiced black magic in the 19th century in his house on the shores of Loch Ness, Boleskine House, which was obviously reputed to be haunted afterwards and burned down just 2 weeks before we were there. A simple coincidence, I am sure of it…
In the same way, the character apparently held a few black masses in the neighboring cemetery, the Boleskine Cemetery, which also inherited a strange reputation (not far from there, you can discover the Falls of Foyers that I told you about just above)…
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Going Mountain Biking in the Inverness forest
Boots n Paddles is a company specializing in outdoor activities on this side of Scotland. They offer all kinds of activities like canoeing, kayaking, archery, mountain biking, rappelling,… There are many trails reserved for mountain biking in the forest around the lake, and that is the option we chose.
On-site, Boots n Paddles takes care of all the equipment, from the mountain bike to the helmet, including gloves and even a backpack to protect your belongings from mud (well, given the pace I was going, I didn’t really need it, but anyway…). This mountain biking interlude was certainly not the most glorious moment of this trip, but I did my best, and the landscapes we traveled through were well worth those few hours of sweat.
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Taking a cruise on Loch Ness
In reality, I realized when arriving on site that I had a very erroneous view of Loch Ness, which is yet one of the most famous lakes in the world. I expected a big round lake, while in truth, it is long and stretches over nearly 36.4 km.
On the shores of the lake, one can also see the cabin of the Nessie Hunter, a guy who apparently gave up everything to dedicate his life to searching for the monster and who is patiently waiting for the latter to show the tip of its snout… Concerning cruises on the Loch, 2 boat companies share the lake, each having a very distinct geographical part of the expanse of water. There are cruises that last between 1h and 3h depending on your preference.
Loch Ness with Jacobite
The one I tested, the Jacobite fleet, has existed since 1975 and allows you, for example, to reach Urquhart Castle, which is very convenient.
Inside the boat, a guide explains the history of the Loch and its mysteries in several languages. Indeed, its icy depths (down to 230m), for example (which are home to many species), have always prevented the total search of the lake by sonar, which obviously fuels the myth of Nessie (a small nickname given to the Loch Ness monster).
I also learned on this occasion that the legend of Nessie is very old, since the first mention of a monster in the lake dates back to the 6th century, with the visit to these shores of Saint Columba, an Irish missionary who came to evangelize the Highlands.
The boat also has a sonar with a screen on board that allows you to capture and see the shapes and movements below us. I also advise you to enjoy the trip to have a little local beer in the colors of Nessie, at the boat’s bar. But I will tell you more about all that in detail in my Inverness food tour.
Jacobite Cruise Price: 1h cruise £14 for an adult / £11.50 for children 2h cruise with visit to Urquhart Castle £21.50 for an adult / £14 for children 3h cruise with visit to Urquhart Castle £26 for an adult / £22 for children The tip: free for children under 5
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Visiting Urquhart Castle
If you go to the Inverness region, you must not miss the visit to the ruins of this historical site, a medieval fortress that has seen many battles unfold at its feet. The castle was indeed an important strategic point for royal armies and clans, passing from one hand to the other over the centuries, until its destruction in 1692. In addition to the ruins, you will have a breathtaking view of the lake.
I also advise you to complete your visit with the visitor center, where you can see a short film (don’t worry, there is a French version for those less comfortable with English) summarizing the history of Urquhart Castle as well as a permanent exhibition on the subject, drink a coffee, and do some shopping if you feel like it.
Urquhart Castle Open every day, hours vary by season Rates: £8.50 for adults / £5.10 for children
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Discovering the Scottish-style massage
It was at the spa of the Kingsmills Hotel that I discovered this famous massage, which I renamed “Scottish-style massage“. This term, invented by me (yes, I am very proud of it), is completely personal, but having tested quite a few spas and different massages so far, I think I can say that the Scots have a rather “deep” style.
Being someone who is rather tense, stressed, and anxious, the poor masseuse worked on my internal knots in my upper back, and I must say I really felt it. Afterwards, it was actually very effective, and she must have released some well-installed tensions. The Kingsmills Hotel is a 4-star establishment located on the Inverness Highlands. It is also an important historical site for the city, as the building dates back to the 18th century.
The Kingsmills Hotel & Kingsclub Culcabock Road, Inverness, Scotland, IV2 3LP
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Visiting a whisky distillery
I will not elaborate too much on this part here, because I will obviously talk about it more precisely in the article on Scottish gastronomy, but if you go to the Highlands, you absolutely must visit a distillery. Even if you don’t like whisky, the explanation of how this traditional Scottish alcohol is made is truly fascinating.
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Scottish Bed & Breakfasts
You know that I really appreciate staying with locals when it comes to accommodation. I had already written an article for you on bed and breakfasts in Belgium, and in Great Britain, it is the land of origin of this concept with the famous bed & breakfasts.
For my part, it was in a charming bed & breakfast, Daviot Lodge, that I discovered the Inverness region. First, the advantage of this type of place is that you immediately feel “at home“; you can sit by the fire to drink tea and read a book when returning from a small excursion, the rooms are super cozy, and Margaret and Alex ensure your well-being throughout the stay. The only small downside of our stay was the difficulty of connecting to the local Wi-Fi, but well, let’s say that you don’t go to Scotland to spend your time on your computer or phone (except when you are a blogger, obviously)…
Another very positive point about this address, the breakfast, just incredible. You can order the night before everything you want for the next morning (be careful not to have eyes bigger than your stomach, however). I highly recommend letting yourself be tempted by the local specialties and trying the Scottish breakfast, especially based on savory products like black pudding, sausages, eggs, bacon, mushrooms, smoked fish, …
Price: between £68 and £120 per night depending on the room and the season.
Daviot Lodge Luxury 5 Gold Star Bed & Breakfast Daviot Lodge, Daviot, Inverness, IV2 5ER
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What to pack for Scotland
- An adapter for electrical outlets, otherwise your devices risk quickly no longer working…
- A warm and waterproof jacket (forget your umbrella, it won’t be of any use to you unless you want to break it).
- Wool socks to keep your feet warm.
- Warm clothes (thick sweater, tights perhaps to wear under pants, gloves, and a beanie).
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Useful information for Scotland
- There is a one-hour time difference with France.
- The currency is the Pound Sterling, like in England (£1 = about €1.40).
- Great Britain is not part of the Schengen Area, which means there is border control when you come from France. A passport is not mandatory for French citizens, but you must at least have your ID card.
- In the Highlands, some Scots still speak Gaelic, and you can see this language on some signs designating the old name of the place, for example.
- For all kinds of useful info before you leave, I advise you to take a look at VisitBritain and VisitInverness.
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I also take this opportunity to thank VisitInverness for welcoming us so well, and my great travel companions, Virginie B from Fais-toi la Belle, Valentine from Hello it’s Valentine and David from Voyager Loin.
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I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover Scotland and the Inverness region, and if you also have your own tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on my travels in Great Britain below:
⇒ All my articles on Great Britain
⇒ All my articles on Scotland
⇒ All my articles on Inverness
MY ARTICLES ON INVERNESS (2016)
⇒ Discovery of the Inverness region
⇒ Food Tour in Inverness
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan, Virginie B. and Hello Valentine Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's permission required before any use
