I’ve always dreamed of Scotland. It might be a bit too long and perhaps even too personal for me to explain why, but I have a very deep connection to this country, even though I had never been there before… So I was both excited at the idea of discovering it and, of course, anxious about being disappointed by this much-desired region. That region is a very specific part of Scotland: the Highlands. These windswept, rainy lands at the edge of Great Britain, with a striking quality of light rarely seen anywhere else. Because over there, even under grey clouds, a certain light transforms the landscapes.
There is so much to say about these wide-open spaces that I hardly know where to begin… Perhaps what struck me most in Scotland, ultimately, was the warmth of the Scottish welcome. The word Welcoming truly comes into its own there. I felt welcome everywhere, and it makes you want to spend hours in every restaurant, in every tea room, just taking your time and appreciating the present moment. In this first article, I will do my best to put together a little list of my suggestions for things to do in the Inverness region during the winter season. In a second article, I’ll take a closer look at Scottish gastronomy (yes, I know you lot, I know you’re absolute foodies).
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Table of Contents
Going for hikes around Inverness
I’d like to share a few hiking ideas on the other side of the Loch—the one known for being more “natural” and wilder. It’s also a bit less populated and less frequented by tourists. So it’s the dream spot for going on a few hikes. Of course, the Scottish winter is quite cold, and I wouldn’t advise you to go on overly long walks, but bundled up warmly you should easily survive the short strolls I’m suggesting below.
Stroll to the top of Mount Suidhe Chuimen
Starting from Loch Tarff, a few kilometers past Fort Augustus, the Suidhe Point trail offers extraordinary views of the region and marks the highest point of an 18th-century military road. The climb up to the viewpoint is quite easy if you drive there via the road and takes no more than 30 minutes, so it’s well worth making the trip to see the landscape!
Walk to the Falls of Foyers
This short forest walk lets you admire the Falls of Foyers, which heavily inspired Scotland’s most famous poet, Robert Burns, and rank among Scotland’s top 10 most beautiful waterfalls, plunging over 50 meters into a rocky gorge. The falls are located on the River Foyers, which flows down from the Monadhliath Mountains to empty into Loch Ness.
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Attending a show or a concert in Inverness
In Paris I go out a lot (too much, yes I know), but after all, why not go out when you’re exploring a foreign city too? With my fellow travelers, we went to listen to the Viennese Gala by the Royal Scottish National Orchestra at the Eden Court performance venue. Located in the heart of the city, this spot is the premier and largest performing arts venue in the north of Scotland.
Eden Court Bishops Road Inverness IV3 5SA Concert price: £23
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Going horseback riding around Inverness
It was at Borlum Farm that I indulged in the joys of horseback riding. This riding school, located on the shores of Loch Ness just 20 minutes from Inverness, has been offering numerous horseback rides tailored to your skill level since 1963, with a herd of over 30 horses.
Now, you might say Scottish horses look more like big ponies, and as a result, we had a pretty leisurely ride, but it was really lovely. And amidst such breathtaking scenery, with Loch Ness down below, you’re bound to have a great time.
Borlum Farm Drumnadrochit, By Inverness, IV63 6XN
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Listening to Scottish legends
Numerous legends and stories circulate throughout the lands of the Highlands, and it’s quite thrilling to listen to local tales of Scottish ghosts in the evening by the fireside. Take, for instance, the legend surrounding author and poet Aleister Crowley, who reportedly practiced black magic in the 19th century at his lakeside home by Loch Ness, Boleskine House—subsequently rumored to be haunted, of course, and which burned down just two weeks before our visit. Pure coincidence, I’m sure…
Similarly, the figure apparently held a few black masses in the nearby Boleskine Cemetery, which has also inherited quite a peculiar reputation (not far from there you can discover the Falls of Foyers I mentioned just above)…
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Mountain biking in the forest of Inverness
Boots n Paddles is a company specializing in outdoor activities on this side of Scotland. They offer all kinds of activities like canoeing, kayaking, archery, mountain biking, abseiling, and more. There are numerous trails set aside for mountain biking in the forest around the loch, and that’s the option we went with.
On site, Boots n Paddles takes care of all the equipment, from the mountain bike to the helmet, including gloves and even a backpack to protect your belongings from the mud (well, considering the pace I was going at, I didn’t really need it in the end, but still…). This mountain biking interlude certainly wasn’t my most glorious moment of the trip, but I did my best, and the landscapes we rode through were well worth a few hours of sweat.
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Taking a cruise on Loch Ness
Actually, upon arriving there, I realized I had a completely mistaken vision of Loch Ness, which is nonetheless one of the most famous lakes in the entire world. I expected a big round lake, whereas in truth, it’s very long and stretches over nearly 36.4 km.
On the shores of the lake, you can also see the Nessie Hunter‘s cabin—a guy who apparently gave up everything to dedicate his life to searching for the monster and waits patiently for it to show the tip of its snout… Regarding cruises on the loch, two boat companies share the lake, each operating in a distinct geographical area of the body of water. There are cruises lasting between 1 hour and 3 hours depending on your preference.
Loch Ness with Jacobite
The one I tried, the Jacobite fleet, has been operating since 1975 and makes it very convenient to travel all the way to Urquhart Castle, for example.
Inside the boat, a guide explains the history of the loch and its mysteries in multiple languages. Indeed, its frigid depths (reaching up to 230 m), which are home to numerous species, have always prevented a complete sonar search of the lake, naturally fueling the myth of Nessie (the affectionate nickname given to the Loch Ness Monster).
I also learned on this occasion that the legend of Nessie goes back a long way, since the first mention of a monster in the lake dates all the way back to the 6th century, with the visit to these shores by Saint Columba, an Irish missionary who came to Christianize the Highlands.
The boat is also equipped with an on-board sonar screen that captures and displays shapes and movements beneath us. I also recommend taking advantage of the trip to grab a refreshing local beer branded with Nessie at the boat’s bar. But I’ll tell you more about all of that in detail in my Inverness food tour.
Jacobite Cruise Price: 1-hour cruise £14 for adults / £11.50 for children 2-hour cruise with a visit to Urquhart Castle £21.50 for adults / £14 for children 3-hour cruise with a visit to Urquhart Castle £26 for adults / £22 for children The good deal: free for children under 5
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Visiting Urquhart Castle
If you’re heading to the Inverness region, you definitely shouldn’t miss visiting the ruins of this historical site, a medieval fortress that has witnessed numerous battles unfold at its feet. The castle was indeed an important strategic point for royal armies and clans alike, passing into the hands of one or the other over the centuries until its destruction in 1692. In addition to the ruins, you’ll have a breathtaking view of the loch.
I also recommend completing your visit with the visitor centre, where you can watch a short film (don’t worry, there’s a French version available for those less confident in English) summarizing the history of Urquhart Castle along with a permanent exhibition on the subject, grab a coffee, and do a bit of shopping if you feel like it.
Urquhart Castle open daily, hours vary by season Prices: £8.50 for adults / £5.10 for children
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Discovering the Scottish-style massage
It was at the Kingsmills Hotel spa that I discovered this famous massage which I’ve rechristened the “Scottish-style massage“. This term, invented by me (yes, I’m very proud of it), is entirely personal, but having tested quite a few different spas and massages so far, I think I can safely say that the Scots have a rather “deep-tissue” style.
Being someone rather tense, stressed, and anxious, the poor masseuse relentlessly worked on my deep-seated knots in my upper back, and I have to admit I definitely felt it. Afterwards, though, it was truly effective, and she managed to release some very stubborn tension. The Kingsmills Hotel is a 4-star establishment located in the Inverness Highlands. It’s also an important historical landmark for the city, as the building dates back to the 18th century.
The Kingsmills Hotel & Kingsclub Culcabock Road, Inverness, Scotland, IV2 3LP
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Visiting a whisky distillery
I won’t dwell on this part too much here, as I’ll obviously cover it in more detail in the article on Scottish gastronomy, but if you’re heading to the Highlands, you absolutely must visit a distillery. Even if you don’t like whisky, the explanation of how this traditional Scottish alcohol is made is truly fascinating.
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Scottish bed & breakfasts
You know how much I love staying in people’s homes when it comes to accommodation. I previously wrote an article for you about guest houses in Belgium, and Great Britain is the birthplace of this concept with the famous bed & breakfasts.
As for me, it was in a charming bed & breakfast, Daviot Lodge, that I discovered the Inverness region. First of all, the perk of this kind of place is that you immediately feel “at home“—you can cozy up by the fireplace to drink tea and read a book after returning from a short excursion, the rooms are super cosy, and Margaret and Alex look after your well-being throughout your entire stay. The only tiny drawback of our stay was the difficulty connecting to the local wifi, but hey, let’s just say you don’t go to Scotland to spend your time on your computer or phone (unless you’re a blogger of course)…
Another major highlight of this place is the breakfast, which is simply incredible. You can order everything you want for the next morning the night before (just be careful not to let your eyes be bigger than your stomach, though). I warmly recommend letting yourself be tempted by local specialties and trying the scottish breakfast, featuring plenty of savory items like black pudding, sausages, eggs, bacon, mushrooms, smoked fish, …
Price: between £68 and £120 per night depending on the room and the season.
Daviot Lodge Luxury 5 Gold Star Bed & Breakfast Daviot Lodge, Daviot, Inverness, IV2 5ER
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What to pack in your suitcase for Scotland
- An adapter for electrical plugs, otherwise your devices might quickly stop working…
- A warm, waterproof jacket (forget your umbrella, it won’t be of any use unless you want it to break).
- Wool socks to keep your feet warm.
- Warm clothing (a thick sweater, maybe tights to wear under your trousers, gloves, and a beanie).
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Useful information for Scotland
- There is a one-hour time difference with France.
- The currency is the pound sterling, just like in England (£1 = roughly €1.40).
- Great Britain is not part of the Schengen area, which means there is border control when you come from France. A passport is not mandatory for French citizens, but you must at least have your national ID card.
- In the Highlands, some Scots still speak Gaelic, and you’ll see this language on certain signs indicating the former name of a place, for example.
- For all kinds of useful info before your departure, I advise you to take a look at VisitBritain and VisitInverness.
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I’d also like to take this opportunity to thank VisitInverness for welcoming us so warmly and my wonderful travel companions, Virginie B from Fais-toi la Belle, Valentine from Hello it’s Valentine, and David from Voyager Loin.
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I hope all of this has made you want to discover Scotland and the Inverness region, and if you also have your own great tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles about my trips to Great Britain below:
⇒ All my articles about Great Britain
⇒ All my articles about Scotland
⇒ All my articles about Inverness
MY ARTICLES ON INVERNESS (2016)
⇒ Discovering the Inverness region
⇒ Food Tour in Inverness
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan, Virginie B. and Hello Valentine Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission required prior to any use
