The town of Langres is quite unique because it has a rather distinctive destiny in the history of France. It is a royal fortress with ramparts, towers, and gates that recall its strategic geographic location, on the border between Burgundy and Champagne. Its position, which gave it the status of a “border town,” also allows it to overlook the surroundings and offers a magnificent panorama of the surrounding countryside.
Since the city is not that far from Paris, we decided with my favorite photographer to drive there in the summer of 2018 (a trip of between 2.5 and 3 hours), which also allowed us to be mobile once there and to explore the surroundings. Indeed, the Langres region is the gateway to Champagne, on the edge of Burgundy, and it consists of a hilly plateau featuring 4 lakes and crisscrossed by several rivers: the Meuse, the Marne, and the Aube.
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Table of Contents
Visiting the town of Langres
You can tour this city of art and history by strolling along the 3.5 km of ramparts, marked by fortified gates and superb viewpoints over the surrounding valleys. It is obviously a city steeped in history with its ancient origins, a medieval cathedral, Renaissance mansions, and 17th-century religious communities. It is also the hometown of Diderot. In 2018, the city’s cultural season was titled Langres in the Renaissance, in tribute to the city’s peak in the 16th century (events on this theme were held until October 7th).
Great tip: Participate in a guided tour of the city with a professional guide during summer weekends and on Saturdays at 3 PM until September 29th (prices: €6 / €5 reduced / free for those under 16), bookings can be made through the Tourist Office.
Don’t miss: The tapestries depicting the history of Saint Mammès from the 16th century in the north and south transepts of the Cathedral (free entry during building opening hours).
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The Tower of Navarre
This 16th-century defensive complex, inaugurated in 1521 by Francis I, houses vaulted rooms and a monumental timber frame. This year, the site also presents an exhibition on the modernization of the Langres stronghold in the 16th century.
The Tower of Navarre Open daily from April 1st to September 30th Rates: €4 / reduced €3.50 / free for those under 16
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Visit the Art and History Museum of Langres
Inside a modern architecture that might look a bit intimidating from the outside (see photo below), you will find a beautiful museum space that, in my opinion, elegantly marries an old building (the Saint-Didier chapel) with a more recent addition built to expand the museum. The archaeological and fine arts collections are well worth the detour, and the presentation is very well-curated, as you can see below.
Until October 7, 2018, there was an exhibition “Langres in the Renaissance” showcasing the works that made the 16th century “The Great Century of Langres.” This unique exhibition is the result of 4 years of research (impressive, right!?). We really liked the creations of the artist from Reims, Frédéric Voisin, inspired by the fantastic bestiary published in 1592 by Joseph Boillot, a Langres engineer, and his references to the world of Lovecraft.
Art and History Museum of Langres Place du Centenaire 52200 Langres Open daily except Tuesday Rates: €7 / reduced €4 / free for those under 12 Great tip: admission to the Maison des Lumières is also included in the price Pass’Tourisme 52: admission at €4 instead of €7 for adults
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The Maison des Lumières – Denis Diderot
This house, located in a 16th and 18th-century mansion, pays tribute to Denis Diderot, born in Langres on October 5, 1713, and to his most famous work, the Encyclopedia. It is also an interesting visit that I recommend if you are passing through Langres, and discovering the building itself is also worth a look.
Maison des Lumières 1 place Pierre Burelle 52200 Langres Open daily except Monday Rates: €7 / reduced €4 / free for those under 12 Great tip: access to the Art and History Museum is also included in the price
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The Renaissance House
This house is one of the best examples of Langres civil Renaissance architecture, so it’s truly worth a detour with its facade featuring Ionic and Corinthian columns. You can also discover a studiolo, a Renaissance “study room,” a small, sumptuously decorated room present in certain aristocratic houses in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Its study room, located on the ground floor, is apparently an absolute must-see (we didn’t have the chance because it was a bit late when we passed by and the building was closed).
The Renaissance House 20, rue Cardinal-Morlot Open from April 26th to October 7th Thursday and Friday from 1:30 PM to 6:30 PM / Saturday and Sunday from 9 AM to 12 PM and 1:30 PM to 6:30 PM Free admission
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To visit in the surroundings of Langres
If you are driving, I also invite you to explore the surroundings of the town a little, as there are some very beautiful places to discover and visit. I offer a few suggestions below!
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Visit the Auberive Abbey
This former Cistercian abbey founded in 1135 on the banks of the Aude was witness to great moments in our history and reached its peak in the 13th century. It was also a women’s prison from 1856 to 1894 (Louise Michel was incarcerated there), then for children until 1924, and in the 60s it became a holiday resort for a summer camp.
For our part, we visited the abbey with a fairly well-made audio guide (included in the admission price) that allows you to discover the different parts of the site at your own pace. Since 2006, the abbey has also housed a Contemporary Art Center which presents works by major or lesser-known artists. During our visit, Stéphane Blanquet was being exhibited (until September 30, 2018) on site.
Not to be missed during your visit: take some time to discover the Abbey park with its very relaxing atmosphere…
Auberive Abbey 1 place de l’Abbaye 52160 Auberive Rates: €8 (from June to September) and €6 (from October to May) adults / €4.50 reduced / free for those under 12 Pass’Tourisme 52: 2nd admission at €6.50 after one full-price admission purchased Opening hours vary by season, please check on the Abbey's website
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Visit the Château du Pailly
This 16th-century château was built between 1563 and 1573 on the foundations of an ancient fortress for Gaspard de Saulx-Tavannes, Marshal of France and companion-in-arms of King Francis I.
Today, this château owes its salvation mainly to a courageous team of volunteers who maintain it and also bring it to life by opening it to visitors! They even offer a small temporary exhibition from time to time, like the one on costumes we saw during our visit to the château. If you are in the area when it is open, don’t hesitate to go; you can contribute at your own level to its preservation and safeguarding.
Château du Pailly See opening hours on the website open from April to September only Self-guided tour (exteriors and golden salon) from 2:15 PM to 6 PM Guided tours on opening Sundays from 2:30 PM to 4 PM and Thursdays in July and August at 2:30 PM Rates: self-guided tour €4 / €3 / free -12 years; guided tour €6 / €5 / €4 Pass’Tourisme 52: a guided tour at €5 instead of €6 for adults and a self-guided tour €3 instead of €4
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Visit the village of Cohons
This small village is also called the village with remarkable gardens, and you will easily understand why by reading the following. Indeed, despite the small size of this market town, Cohons has no fewer than 3 remarkable gardens within its commune. All three can be visited, and it is well worth coming to spend at least a full day on site to discover them all.
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Visit the Garden of Silière
This French-style garden was created shortly after the construction of the adjacent residence, called “the castle of Cohons.” It is contemporary with the park of Versailles, and family tradition has it that its design is attributed to André Le Nôtre (but this is not proven). Today, the residence and the garden are listed as Historic Monuments and belong to a private family, who opens the garden to curious visitors for a few months of the year.
The garden, which covers 3 hectares, is on a slope, and the nearby source of Silière feeds the fountain and water jets by gravity. We took this beautiful guided tour with the estate gardener, but it can also be done with the owner of the premises, depending on their availability.
Garden of Silière 5 rue Varinot 52600 Cohons Open from May 1st to November 5th From June to September guided tours on Saturdays and Sundays at 3 PM and 4:30 PM In July tours every day at 11 AM, 3 PM, 4:30 PM and 6 PM In August tour from Monday to Friday at 3 PM and 4:30 PM and weekends at 11 AM, 3 PM, 4:30 PM and 6 PM
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The Hanging Gardens of Cohons
These gardens come from two former properties, the Clos de la Roche and its terrace garden which belonged to the Daguin family, and the Snail Park. In 1869, Ferdinand Jacquinot united the two parks to form the current set of Hanging Gardens of Cohons. Since 2013, the commune of Cohons has been taking care of the restoration and (costly) maintenance of the site with a few passionate volunteers. During our visit, we were also able to admire a Land Art exhibition by the artist APO.
If you visit one of the two gardens, you must absolutely climb to the top of the monumental dry stone snails (there are some in both gardens), even if it takes some time for some that are larger than others, I must admit… These stone structures stem from the tradition of “mound labyrinths” and appeared after the Revolution in English gardens in the region and developed in the southern part of Haute-Marne throughout the 19th century.
Great tip: Bring back from this short visit a nice apple juice made on-site and sold at the garden shop, or honey made by bees in the park.
Good to know: Access to the picturesque stone snail park section (built in the 19th century) is free and open all year round (route de Bourg).
Hanging Gardens of Cohons self-guided tour from Wednesday to Sunday from 2:30 PM to 6 PM in April, May, June, September and October from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 AM to 7 PM in July and August guided tour on Saturday and Sunday at 2:30 PM and 4:30 PM Rates: guided tour of the 2 gardens €12 (reduced €7) / 1 garden €7 Pass’Tourisme 52: admission at €4 instead of €5 for the self-guided tour of the Hanging Gardens of Cohons and €6 instead of €7 for the guided tour
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My favorite addresses in Langres and the surrounding area
As usual, I offer you a good bed and breakfast address to stay in Langres, which we tested during our stay, and also some gourmet restaurants in Langres and the surrounding area.
If you want to taste some local products, I recommend testing the local cheeses: Langres (AOP) with its orange-yellow rind is made according to old traditional recipes, and Epoisses, which should have a depression called a “fountain” on the top of the cheese.
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Restaurant Le Cheval Blanc
This hotel-restaurant, housed in an old church, is one of the good tables in Langres, with gourmet and creative cuisine that is revisited throughout the seasons at the Diderot restaurant. Another super convenient point is that it was a 2-minute walk from our B&B, which was quite nice for coming back late after a dinner with a fair amount of wine.
Evening Menus “A Season in Langres” (land or sea sides): includes amuse-bouche + starter + main course + dessert for €36
Great tip: lunch menu starter + main course or main course + dessert at €18 and starter + main course + dessert at €22
Le Cheval Blanc Restaurant open daily except Wednesday lunch (closed from November 1st to 30th) Menus: from €38 to €50 (lunch formula at €22) 4 rue de l'Estres 52200 Langres
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Bed and Breakfast Le Belvédère des Remparts
This B&B, housed in a 19th-century mansion, has 5 rooms with a decor I found a bit busy, but nonetheless, if you are not too picky about this (especially the bubblegum pink room), it is very well located in the town of Langres, with a privileged location on the town’s ramparts and a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside.
Our superior double room: La Royale
This room (one of the largest) is located (like the others) on the first floor of the house.
Breakfast
Well, I don’t look very awake in the photo below… That’s because I’m not… Breakfast (with real freshly squeezed orange juice!) is served on the ground floor of the house, and it is even possible to have it outside on the terrace when the weather permits.
In addition, we were able to buy some local products in the evening and have a nice little aperitif on the beautiful terrace of the B&B, which was very pleasant.
Le Belvédère des Remparts Rates: between €90 and €120 for a room for 2 people (breakfast included) 33 rue Lombard 52200 Langres
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Restaurant Les Voiliers
This excellent restaurant is located right in front of Lake Liez. This lake is actually the largest of the 4 lakes of the Langres region. The place is a restaurant but also a Logis de France hotel.
I highly recommend it because, despite its appearance, which is not particularly attractive, it is a gourmet restaurant with extremely fine cuisine (as evidenced by the photos below), and it would be a shame to pass it by without stopping. We took advantage of our lunch on the terrace to test a local beer: the Voutûe (€6.50 per bottle).
If you have the time, I advise you to take a little tour around the lake to digest your good meal!
The little extra: the terrace with a view of the lake for sunny days
Price: daily menu at €24
Les Voiliers 1 rue des Voiliers 52200 Peigney
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Thanks to the Haute-Marne Tourist Office and the Langres Tourist Office for this welcome.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Langres and its surroundings, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on the Grand-Est region below:
⇒ All my articles on the Grand-Est region
MY ARTICLES ON THE GRAND EST REGION
⇒ The Aube
⇒ The Meuse
⇒ The Marne
⇒ The Haute-Marne
⇒ The Moselle
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; permission from the photographer is required before any use
