Following my two previous articles on Tunisia (one on Tunis and the other on Sidi Bou Saïd), I wanted to take you to visit northern Tunisia towards Cap Blanc. It’s the perfect opportunity to discover the coast and the northernmost point of the African continent, as well as to visit the charming towns of Ghar el Melh and Bizerte.
It’s a much less touristy region in Tunisia. If you want to get off the beaten path and away from marked-out tours, it’s a great destination to consider! To get around easily in this part of the country, having a car is obviously essential.
As for us, my favorite photographer and I were accompanied on our little trip by a guide and a driver, which can turn out to be very practical (especially since local driving can sometimes be a bit sporty!).
To start, I’ll let you discover a short video below filmed by my favorite photographer during our trip to northern Tunisia. I hope it makes you want to go take a stroll there!
Table of Contents
Visiting Ghar el Melh
Ghar el Melh is a small fishing and farming village located about a 45-minute drive north of Tunis. Its name, which means “salt cave,” recalls the proximity of the salt flats and the vast surrounding lagoon.
The town was founded by the Phoenicians in ancient times and later became a strategic base for corsairs. This is why fortifications were built there to secure the coast. Today, you can still admire the remains of three old 17th-century Ottoman forts as well as the arsenal bastion.
Strolling along the port, you’ll notice that the arsenal is still used today by local fishermen to store and repair their boats. We walked around there and were able to watch craftsmen working with wood right on the quayside.
The population of Ghar el Melh lives mainly from fishing and a uniquely world-renowned market gardening agriculture: traditional “Ramli” sand farming, irrigated by fresh water floating on the saline lagoon—a system recognized by FAO as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS).
_
Where to stay in Ghar el Melh? Les Jardins de la Mer Guest House
This guest house is a superb place, clinging to the hillside with panoramic views of the sea and the lagoon. The property has a capacity of 18 guests across 6 independent bungalows, featuring a private terrace or garden and equipped with air conditioning.
We stayed in the “La Terrasse” bungalow, which has a sweeping view overlooking the sea. Having breakfast by the pool facing the coast remains a particularly relaxing moment.
Les Jardins de la Mer is a particularly peaceful place that invites you to disconnect. Be careful, though, for the ultra-connected: Wi-Fi is limited there. The flocks of sheep from the neighboring hills and their guard dogs add a picturesque and authentic touch to the mountain setting.
The property also features its “La Table du Marché” restaurant, a very good spot to enjoy savory Tunisian family cuisine (also open to outside guests upon reservation).
Les Jardins de la Mer Guest House
2 El Ayoun, 7033 Ghar el Melh, Tunisia
Rates: from 180 dinars per night in low season and 250 dinars in high season (breakfast included)
Visiting Bizerte
The town of Bizerte is located a bit further north than Ghar el Melh. It’s the most important port city in the north of the country, accessible in about 1 hour by road from Tunis.
One of the points of pride for the people of Bizerte is that it’s the childhood town of the former mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoë. The town remained under French protectorate for a long time, and France maintained a naval base there until 1963.
_
Strolling around the old port and the Kasbah
The Kasbah is the oldest part of the city. It was enclosed by a thick fortified wall that is still standing today.
This historic district lacks neither charm nor cats (who literally seem to rule the Kasbah!). I advise you to get lost in this blue and white maze of cobbled alleyways: it’s an absolute joy to wander around there.
Right next to the Kasbah stretches the old port and its marina. This picturesque district is lined with small café terraces, traditional fishing boats, and small houses with blue shutters.
While observing the port, you also notice certain urban contrasts with unfinished modern structures. By getting close to these developments, you can catch a glimpse of a marine Roman mosaic (a replica, the original from the Fundus Bassianus baths being kept at the Bardo Museum in Tunis).
_
Where to have lunch by the sea in Bizerte? Kahena Restaurant at Bizerta Resort
We went for lunch with our guide and driver at this seaside resort. If you want to eat on a terrace facing the waves, it’s a convenient option on the way to La Corniche.
In Bizerte, I naturally recommend opting for fresh fish and grilled seafood, the must-try specialties of this coastal town!
Bizerta Resort Congress & SPA Hotel – Kahena Restaurant
Route de la Corniche, Sidi Salem 7000 Bizerte, Tunisia
My Travel Guide to Tunisia
To prepare our itinerary in the north and the rest of the country, I had brought along the Gallimard Travel Encyclopedia for Tunisia. This collection provides valuable cultural and historical landmarks as well as many very useful practical tips on the ground!
The good deal: To explore northern Tunisia with complete peace of mind, prefer the months of May, June, September, or October: temperatures are mild and the light on the coast is splendid.
Thank you to the Tunisia National Tourist Office Discover Tunisia for this collaboration and this wonderful trip discovering northern Tunisia.
I hope that with all this I’ve made you want to discover Bizerte and visit northern Tunisia. If you also have your favorite addresses and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments below!
My stops in Tunisia:
⇒ Tunis and its surroundings
⇒ Visiting Sidi Bou Saïd
⇒ Bizerte and the northern coast
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory prior to any use
