The last time I set foot in Turkey was over 10 years ago. Back then, I discovered the complex and sprawling beauty of Istanbul, a megacity among megacities with a history as rich as Rome’s. In 2022, I set off for new horizons on the other side of the Bosphorus (in Anatolia) for a road trip from Northwestern to Southwestern Turkey. My journey never took me very far from the Aegean Sea and aimed to learn more about the ancestral culture of olive oil, as well as to discover the ancient wonders of the region and its rich gastronomy. This guiding thread allowed me, alongside international journalists, to walk through the sumptuous ruins of Ephesus, touch a 3,200-year-old olive tree, and sample numerous culinary specialties.
It is this journey that I am going to share with you in this article, organized province by province (Izmir in the North, Aydın in the “middle”, and Muğla in the South). For each province, I will share what you can do on site, along with my personal recommendations for where to stay and where to eat.
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Table of Contents
Visiting the Province of Izmir
I arrived by plane from Istanbul at Izmir airport to begin my road trip in Northwestern Anatolia (the Asian part of Turkey) in the province sharing its name with the city. It is an absolute must-visit destination for all history lovers. Izmir possesses true archaeological treasures, housing the remains of ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine cities. It is also a province rich in beautiful landscapes and filled with great spots to discover Turkish gastronomy.
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DISCOVERING THE CHARMING TOWN OF URLA
Urla is a delightful town that flourished under the Lydians and Persians before being integrated into the Roman Empire. The city is famous for its wine and olive oil production, as well as for being the birthplace of the Greek poet George Seferis, laureate of the Nobel Prize in Literature. Nowadays, it is a true pleasure to wander through its lively streets, brimming with small independent shops. A sweet, relaxed pace of life emanates throughout the city.
I highly recommend taking a stroll around the port of Urla Iskelesi, where you can watch fishermen preparing their boats and unloading the daily catch under the watchful eyes of local cats. Besides witnessing the daily life of these fishermen, it’s the perfect occasion to photograph internet’s most beloved creatures lounging in every corner of the harbor.
Urla, Izmir
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TASTING HIGH-QUALITY OLIVE OIL AT OLIVURLA
Olivurla (Urla) is an olive oil producer that offers superior extra-virgin olive oils crafted from local olive varieties. They cultivate their own trees in the Urla region and use traditional cold-extraction methods. Here, you’ll find a range of olive oils with varied flavors and aromas tailored for different culinary uses. I had the privilege of having lunch right at the production estate, and I must confess I have rarely tasted such an exceptional range of olive oil. Keep in mind, however, that fresh, high-quality olive oil often comes with a distinct bitter note… which I personally love, but consider yourself warned!
Our hosts delighted us with a meal centered around olive oil, of course, but also paired with wonderful wines produced on the property. During lunch, we had the opportunity to go behind the scenes to discover how the oil is extracted and processed.
The main facility is located slightly outside Urla, but the owners also run a beautiful space right in town. There, Olivurla offers visitors the chance to discover the secrets of olive oil production, taste its different varieties, and experiment with food pairings.
A few pro tips I learned on site for tasting olive oil: you should warm the glass in the palm of your hand, then smell and sip it, taking time to let the oil coat your palate. True professionals actually use an opaque blue glass to taste completely blind!
Olivurla
Ayerya Tasting Center, Yeni Neighborhood, Post Office St. No.7, Urla-İzmir
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THE KOSTEM OLIVE OIL MUSEUM
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum is the world’s largest museum complex dedicated to olive oil. Located in Urla, it presents the history and manufacturing techniques of olive oil from antiquity to modern times. The museum houses authentic olive oil production facilities, as well as an impressive collection of machinery, tools, bottles, and amphorae. The complex also features a cafe-restaurant, a store selling natural products, an art studio, and a children’s playground. It’s a wonderful place to learn everything about olive oil, whose earliest traces date back over 4,000 years.
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum
Uzunkuyu, D:no:8, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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THE MAJESTIC ANCIENT CITY OF EPHESUS
Rarely are ancient archaeological sites so impeccably preserved. Ephesus is awe-inspiring with its vast ruins of an originally Greek city that prospered for centuries thanks to its flourishing port. I strongly advise taking a tour with a guide to breathe life into the stone and truly grasp the rich history of a city so huge it features two amphitheaters—the largest of which rivals any famous ancient theater in the world. But if I had to highlight one single moment from this visit, it would be standing in complete wonder before the Library of Celsus (117 AD). This ancient masterpiece, amazingly preserved, stands at the end of a long stone avenue like a king reigning over his castle.
Given how popular the site is, it goes without saying that you won’t have the place to yourself. It’s best to plan your visit time carefully to avoid peak crowds. Nevertheless, missing out on such a treasure would be a heartbreak for anyone who appreciates ancient history.
Ancient City of Ephesus
Acarlar, Efes Harabeleri, 35920 Selçuk/İzmir, Turkey
Link to UNESCO entry for more information
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE PROVINCE OF IZMIR?
The Charming Gaia Alaçatı Hotel
Located a 30-minute drive from Urla, the Gaia Alaçatı Hotel offers stylish, upscale boutique accommodation. You are welcomed warmly into this venue with its refined, minimalist design. It’s the perfect spot for a peaceful romantic getaway!
My recommended accommodations for this stay
Gaia Alaçatı
via BookingDoubleTree by Hilton
via BookingOÙ LOGER DANS LA PROVINCE DE MUGLA ?
via BookingThe Marmara Bodrum
via BookingThe hotel is wonderfully cozy. It makes you want to curl up in an armchair by the fireplace, sipping Turkish tea while reading a good book. As for the rooms, I really loved mine with its intimate charm and tasteful decor.
Gaia Alaçatı
Alaçatı, 13002. Sk. No:11, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
Rates: between €160 and €240 for a standard room, depending on the season
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WHERE TO EAT IN THE PROVINCE OF IZMIR?
Lunch at Vino Locale in Urla
If you’re looking for a spot to enjoy modern Turkish gastronomy, you’ll find just what you’re looking for at Vino Locale. Run by a charming couple—the husband in the kitchen and the wife handling service—Vino Locale is a restaurant I can’t recommend warmly enough. You can sample fantastic local wines here, and the food is simply delicious. For the main course, I completely fell in love with the monkfish dish served with Swiss chard and miso. Plus, the place reflects its owners: soothing, welcoming, and charming. A must-visit if you happen to be in Urla!
Vino Locale
Kuşçular, 8037. Sk. No:3, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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Dinner at Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
A stone’s throw from the Gaia hotel lies an equally aesthetic restaurant: Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki. You enter through a magnificent terrace that must be wonderfully pleasant for a summer lunch. Since the weather wasn’t all that warm during my trip—especially in the evening—we ate under a glass roof at the back. As for the food, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki primarily offers well-executed traditional gastronomy crafted from fresh, local ingredients. The restaurant also doubles as a crafts boutique.
The restaurant’s name means “vine leaf” in Turkish, a nod to one of the country’s signature dishes: dolmas. Dolmas are vine leaves stuffed with rice, meat, or vegetables, and cooked either by steaming or baking. If you are looking for a place to enjoy Turkish gastronomy in a picturesque setting, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki is a great address to keep in mind.
Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
Ovacık, Kerimoğlu Mevkii, 7152. Sk. No 141/ 1, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
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Visiting the Province of Aydın
Our journey continued further south, yet still hugging the Aegean Sea, as we headed to the province of Aydın, famous for its fig production—considered among the best in the world—and its lush olive groves. The province is also known for its traditional crafts, particularly textile and carpet production. Every year, events and festivals celebrate the region’s cultural richness and local produce. Like Izmir, it is also a province rich in history and archaeological sites (such as Didyma, which I discuss below).
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VISITING THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO
As the third-largest temple in the ancient Greek world, the Temple of Apollo is undeniably awe-inspiring in its scale. Massive columns, still partially standing, once formed the framework of a major pilgrimage site. Indeed, alongside the famous oracle of Delphi, the oracle at this temple was equally renowned for its prophecies, whether auspicious or ill-fated. One can easily imagine the emotion pilgrims felt upon arriving before such a vast and imposing structure. It was located within the ancient city of Didyma. The temple completely lost its significance in 385 AD, and with the spread of Christianity, its construction was never completed.
Visiting the Temple of Apollo is a rather unique opportunity to dive into the history of ancient Greece and better understand the central role oracles played in the religious and political life of the era. I recommend—once again—visiting with a guide if possible, because despite the explanatory signs, this is the kind of site that needs a human touch to bring the scale and beauty of such a place back to life.
Temple of Apollo
Hisar Özgürlük Caddesi Özgürlük Cad, 09270 Didim/Aydın, Turkey
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DISCOVERING ONE OF THE OLDEST OLIVE TREES IN THE WORLD
There are moments during a trip that leave an everlasting impression, and that was certainly the case for this unusual experience amidst the olive groves. Near the village of Kazıklı, we were greeted with great fanfare by the owners (featuring wonderful homemade mezes and, of course, top-quality olive oil!) and treated to a traditional folk dance performance in front of an olive tree over 3,200 years old. Nicknamed “Ata Ağaç” (which means “the ancestral tree”), the emotion of standing before a tree that has lived through so much and is still standing is hard to put into words, but you can easily imagine how I felt. What’s more, it still produces olive oil! It was a magical, timeless moment where we experienced Turkish hospitality in all its glory. Plus, I probably captured my best photos of the trip because the location is just so photogenic…
Village of Kazıklı
Kuşçular, 8037. Sk. No:3, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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DISCOVERING DEGIRMEN FARM AND ITS MUSEUM
Degirmen Farm in Kusadasi is an ideal place to spend a day with family. You can discover a variety of animals, birds, and plants, as well as a restaurant serving traditional Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is set in a natural and cozy environment. Since we went there in the morning, we were treated to a Turkish breakfast consisting mainly of fresh cheese, spinach, eggs, and various flatbreads.
Along with the opportunity to eat on-site and enjoy the bucolic setting, there is also a museum that is perfect for expanding your knowledge of olive oil (yes, more!). The museum, Oleatrium, features a rich private collection with numerous tools, machines, and documentation on olive oil production in Turkey. If you haven’t been to the Köstem Olive Oil Museum, this is also a great choice to learn more about the subject. Finally, a shop offers various varieties of olive oil for every taste and use (I bought a cooking oil, and it’s excellent!).
Degirmen Farm
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE PROVINCE OF AYDIN?
The DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel in Kusadasi
This very large hotel is ideally located in the lovely town of Kusadasi, not far from the ancient city of Ephesus. Compared to the other addresses from the trip, it offers a chic yet more classic standard. The highlight is definitely the magnificent rooftop terrace, which provides a gorgeous panoramic view of the town and the Aegean Sea (while sipping a nice little cocktail, of course).
DoubleTree by Hilton
Türkmen, Atatürk Blv, Yat Limanı Karşısı, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Rates: from €113 to €227 depending on the season
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WHERE TO EAT IN THE PROVINCE OF AYDIN?
Dinner at Oksa Marina in Kusadasi
Specializing in seafood and fish, this restaurant boasts a lovely location with a sea view. You can enjoy a variety of traditional Turkish dishes here, such as salads, grilled meats, and fish.
It was during this meal that I first tried the local anise-flavored spirit, Rakı, which Turkish people consume in huge quantities. It’s probably not the best possible pairing with grilled fish (it’s actually discouraged!), but as an aperitif, it’s quite nice (if you like pastis-style drinks).
Oksa Marina Balık Restaurant
Türkmen, Gazi Beğendi Sk. no:3/1, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Link to the restaurant’s website
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Visiting the Province of Muğla
The final leg of the trip concluded in southwestern Turkey (traveling down the coast from north to south) with the province of Muğla. This area is famous for its picturesque seaside resorts, such as Bodrum, Marmaris, and Fethiye, which attract millions of visitors every year looking for relaxation, sunshine, and entertainment.
Muğla is also home to several archaeological and historical sites that I didn’t have time to discover. Among the most famous are the ancient city of Caunos, which features the remains of a theater, an acropolis, and rock-cut tombs, as well as the town of Dalyan, known for its Lycian tombs carved into the cliff face. Another must-see site is the ancient city of Knidos, located on the Datça Peninsula.
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A CULINARY EXPERIENCE AT THE FOODRUM CULINARY PARK
To discover local cuisine, nothing beats a little cooking class accompanied by a tasting of traditional dishes skillfully prepared by the multi-talented chef, Pelin Dumanlı. Aside from her innate sense of sharing which makes the encounter absolutely fascinating, it’s an equal pleasure to taste her dishes. The venue offers educational programs, catering services, and gastronomic events.
This evening was the perfect opportunity for me to try local products such as a Bodrum beer, the Gara Guzu (I rarely miss a chance to taste beer from a local microbrewery).
Foodrum Culinary Park
Bitez, Forsa İş Merkezi, Adliye Cd. No:1 D:A2, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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WHERE TO STAY IN MUĞLA PROVINCE?
Lujo Bodrum, the resort of excess
Lujo is a luxury hotel located near Bodrum (in the far southwest of Anatolia) offering a unique “art and joy” concept. Lujo provides its guests with an atypical vacation experience based on pleasure, creativity, and self-discovery. The resort features several à la carte restaurants, a spa, a private beach, and numerous fun and cultural activities. Upon entering the hotel, you are immediately struck by the immensity of the place as well as its refined decoration. What’s more, the panorama is breathtaking, making you want to spend a quiet week there… However, I only took a quick tour of the place and just had lunch at one of the restaurants.
Lujo Bodrum
Meşelik Mah. Çomça Mevkii Sok. No:10, 48200 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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The Marmara Bodrum, charm and luxury
Overlooking the town of Bodrum, The Marmara Bodrum has everything going for it: a sumptuous panoramic view, charming rooms, and elegant design, not to mention a good breakfast (that’s important!). I particularly recommend it. What’s more, this hotel is reserved for adults who can thus enjoy the outdoor pool, spa, and private beach without being disturbed by little two-legged creatures.
The Marmara Bodrum
Yokuşbaşı mah, Sulu Hasan Cd. No:18, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
Rates: between €153 and €283 depending on the season for a standard room
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A huge thank you to the Türkiye Tourism Promotion and Development Agency and Axium by Parker for organizing this amazing trip to discover Turkish olive oil, culture, heritage, and art de vivre!
I hope all of this has made you want to visit Turkey, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not royalty-free, photographer's permission mandatory prior to any useThis article contains affiliate links. If you click on certain links and make a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
