I know I’ve said this before and I’m about to repeat myself, but sometimes you don’t need to go far to feel like you’re on vacation. The perk of living in Paris is that you can easily head out to explore the regions of Île-de-France and find yourself completely somewhere else in no time at all.
Through several of my articles, you’ve probably gathered that I really love the Yvelines department, which I’ve been wandering around for a few years now.
This time, I packed my bags for Saint-Germain-en-Laye—a royal town very easily accessible from Paris via the RER A—to spend a peaceful, foodie, and relaxing weekend.
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Cazaudehore La Forestière, Relais & Châteaux
This deeply family-oriented country house is located just 20 minutes from Paris, nestled in the heart of the dense national forest of centuries-old oaks. It is a magnificent haven of peace where you instantly feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the capital…
The hotel and its gourmet restaurant, historic members of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux chain, are a true sanctuary of calm and greenery for anyone looking to escape into nature right on the doorstep of Paris.
As a bit of background, the place has been around since 1928, when Jean-Baptiste Cazaudehore and his wife opened the refreshment stand at the Saint-Germain-en-Laye stadium (which later became the PSG training center). Over the decades, the guinguette expanded to become a renowned charming hotel after World War II.
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Our Room No. 10
Each of the house’s thirty rooms and suites is completely different, showcasing its own personalized universe and atmosphere.
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The Garden and Terrace
In the property’s wooded gardens, you’ll discover a monumental sculpture by artist Béatrice Guichard reinterpreting Manet‘s famous Déjeuner sur l’herbe (The Luncheon on the Grass), which has naturally become the artistic emblem of the place over time.
The magnificent terrace, ideal as soon as the sunny days arrive, evokes the guinguette spirit and the Moulin de la Galette with its Parisian streetlamps and carefully set tables, inviting you to take a timeless break.
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The Gourmet Restaurant
During our stay, chef Grégory Balland was working wonders in the kitchen to offer fresh, seasonal produce (the kitchen has since been taken over by chef Pascal Lognon-Duval).
I had already had the opportunity to discover this restaurant during the Goûts d’Yvelines event, and I was thrilled to experience their cuisine through an “All Chocolate” Easter menu—a bold, subtle, and very well-balanced pairing of flavors, complemented by excellent food and wine pairings.
On the menu for this delicious festive meal:
- The foie gras terrine with lobster and white chocolate, breaded avocado, and spicy sauce.
- Scallops two ways: in a sweet dark chocolate mille-feuille, pan-seared with a passion fruit juice, red cocoa carrots, and minty green peas.
- Duck breast with kumquats, coffee-infused celery in a cocoa crêpe, and vegetable salad with citrus vinaigrette.
- Parmesan and aged Mimolette, baby spinach shoots with 1997 Vintage Sherry, shallot bread, and French toast-style chocolate.
- Tasting of fine chocolate grands crus: Venezuelan dark chocolate mousse, Bahibé milk chocolate frozen parfait (Dominican Republic), Ivoire white chocolate mousse.
The good deal: from Tuesday lunch to Friday lunch, for both lunch and dinner, the establishment offers 30% off its à la carte menu for anyone under 30!
For hotel guests, breakfast is also served in the dining room as a generous buffet featuring fresh products, viennoiseries, and house specialties.
Good to know: Jazzaudehore evenings featuring a particularly curated and renowned lineup are regularly hosted at the venue.
The essential: free Wi-Fi connection available throughout the entire property (yes, I’m a geek, but I’m a blogger, so you can forgive me!).
Rates: classic rooms starting from €180 to €250 per night depending on the season / getaway packages and special offers available on their website / at the restaurant, set menus and adult formulas from €39 to €85, and Sunday Brunch at €55.
Hôtel & Restaurant Cazaudehore La Forestière (Relais & Châteaux)
1, avenue du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
What to do and visit in Saint-Germain-en-Laye
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Guided tour of the town with the Tourist Office
Accompanied by Victoria, a guide from the Saint Germain Boucles de Seine Tourist Office, we set off for a pleasant stroll through the historic center of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, discovering stunning period mansions, the château, and fascinating anecdotes about royal court life.
Practical info: thematic guided tours are regularly scheduled year-round by the Tourist Office (approx. 1.5 to 2 hours). Check out the full schedule and book online on their official website.
Saint Germain Boucles de Seine Intercommunal Tourist Office
22 rue du Vieil-Abreuvoir, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
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Visiting the National Archaeology Museum
The National Archaeology Museum, which houses a treasure I mentioned after my getaway to the Landes—the famous Lady of Brassempouy—is one of my favorite museums. Naturally, with my background in archaeology, I am especially appreciative of this establishment’s exceptional collections.
I strongly encourage you to visit it, because it’s a museum often overlooked by people living in the Paris region due to its relative distance from central Paris (though it’s accessible in just a few minutes on foot from the Saint-Germain-en-Laye RER A station!).
Along with its remarkable collections tracing the archaeology of French territory from Prehistory through the Middle Ages via the Gallo-Roman period, the museum is housed inside the sumptuous Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye. A former royal residence for several centuries and the birthplace of several sovereigns (including Louis XIV), the château was restored by Eugène Millet starting in 1862.
The appeal of the visit is therefore twofold: understanding the history of our region through unique artifacts (a topic I could talk about for hours!) and admiring the remarkable architecture of this exceptional monument.
Rates: €6 full price / €5 reduced price / free on the first Sunday of the month, as well as for EU residents under 26, job seekers, and RSA beneficiaries.
The good deal: if you don’t have the time or inclination to visit all the collections, you can still step through the Château’s doors to freely and free-of-charge discover the stunning Renaissance inner courtyard and royal chapel without needing to buy a ticket!
Musée d’Archéologie nationale – Domaine national de Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Place Charles de Gaulle, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM (except Tuesdays)
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I hope all this has made you want to discover or rediscover Saint-Germain-en-Laye! If you also have your own favorite spots for going out and visiting this charming town in Île-de-France, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission required prior to any use
