Home Ile-de-FranceA weekend in Saint-Germain-en-Laye

A weekend in Saint-Germain-en-Laye

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

I know I’ve said it before and I’m repeating myself, but sometimes you don’t need to go far to feel like you’re on a getaway. The advantage of living in Paris is that you can easily head out to explore the regions of Île-de-France and find yourself completely elsewhere in a very short time.

Through several of my articles, you must have realized that I enjoy the Yvelines department, which I have been exploring (almost thoroughly) for a few years now.

This time, it is in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, a town very easily accessible by the RER A train, that I decided to spend a peaceful and relaxing little weekend.

Cazaudehore La Forestière building in Saint-Germain-en-Laye and red sculpture.

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Cazaudehore La Forestière, Relais & Châteaux

This country house with a deeply familial history is located just 20 minutes from Paris, hidden in the heart of the dense national forest of centennial oaks, in a magnificent haven of peace where you feel far away from the capital…

The hotel and its restaurant, members of the Relais & Châteaux chain for 40 years, constitute a refuge of calm and greenery for anyone in search of escapism and space, right at the gates of Paris.

Hôtel Cazaudehore La Forestière in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Cazaudehore La Forestière lounge with fireplace, floral sofa and coffee table covered in magazines.

Cazaudehore La Forestière restaurant interior with green armchairs and plants.

For the record, the venue has existed since 1928, the year Jean-Baptiste Cazaudehore opened the refreshment stall at the St-Germain-en-Laye stadium (which has since become the PSG training center) with his wife. The guinguette grew and expanded to become a charming hotel after World War II.

Our room no. 10: each of the thirty rooms and suites is completely different and they each feature their own unique universe.

Hotel room at Cazaudehore La Forestière, Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Antique engraving of women in period costumes, probably at Cazaudehore.Woman looking out of a Cazaudehore La Forestière room window.

Hotel room at Cazaudehore La Forestière, Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Bright yellow lounge area at Cazaudehore La Forestière Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Metal key with the number 10, a possible room key at Cazaudehore La Forestière.

Bathroom with bathtub and sink, Cazaudehore towels.

In the establishment’s gardens, there is a monumental sculpture by artist Béatrice Guichard based on the interpretation of Manet‘s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Luncheon on the Grass), which has become the emblem of the establishment today.

Red and white abstract sculptures in a Cazaudehore La Forestière garden.

The magnificent terrace, perfect for sunny days, evokes Le Moulin de La Galette in Montmartre, with its Parisian lampposts, and immerses us in another era.

Cazaudehore La Forestière terrace in Saint-Germain-en-Laye with green tables and red lanterns.

Restaurant chef Grégory Balland has been plying his talents in the house kitchens for 10 years now, offering seasonal and quality products in generous and gourmet dishes.

I had already had the chance to discover the hotel’s restaurant during the 2014 Goûts d’Yvelines event, so I was delighted to taste this excellent cuisine again, through its Easter menu, a surprising blend of flavors without ever being cloying, and which I found particularly interesting in terms of food and wine pairings.

Extract from the All-Chocolate Easter menu, Cazaudehore La Forestière Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

The All-Chocolate Easter Menu:

  • Foie gras marble, lobster and white chocolate, breaded avocado and chili sauce.

Semi-cooked foie gras with vegetable accompaniment and reduction on a white plate at Cazaudehore.

  • Scallops two ways: in a millefeuille of sweet dark chocolate, pan-seared with a passion fruit jus, cocoa-infused red carrots, and minty peas.

Seared scallops, beetroot and green puree on a white plate.

  • Duck breast with kumquats, coffee-infused celery in a cocoa crepe, citrus vinaigrette salad.

Duck breast and glass of red wine, Cazaudehore La Forestière.Pink duck breast and salad, Cazaudehore La Forestière Saint-Germain-en-Laye dish.

  • Parmesan and aged Mimolette cheese, baby spinach shoots with 1997 Vintage Sherry, shallot bread, and French toast-style chocolate.

Spinach salad with black truffle shavings and citrus at Cazaudehore.

  • Tasting of great vintage chocolates: Venezuelan dark chocolate mousse, Bahibé milk chocolate frozen parfait (Dominican Republic), Ivoire white chocolate mousse.

Chocolate dessert and vanilla cream, served at Cazaudehore La Forestière Saint-Germain-en-Laye.Price:

€79 and €99 with food and wine pairing

The tip: from Tuesday lunch to Friday lunch, for both lunch and dinner, the establishment offers -30% on its menu for those under 30!

Elegant restaurant room with exposed beams and set tables, Cazaudehore La Forestière.

For hotel guests, breakfast is also served in the dining room, in the form of a buffet.

Breakfast with Japanese teapot and pastries, view of a rainy terrace.

Breakfast with orange juice, pastries and farm products at Cazaudehore.

Good to know: Jazzaudehore evenings with a particularly well-curated program are regularly organized.

The essential: free Wi-Fi obviously (yes I am a geek, but I am a blogger, so I get forgiven).

Price: between €200 and €250 for a classic room / also check out the special “duo package” offers / “All Chocolate” Escape (All Chocolate menu and its food & wine pairing + one night in a double room, chocolate surprise in the room and buffet breakfast) starting from €165 per person

Light-filled restaurant room with set tables and wooden chairs at Cazaudehore La Forestière.

The Yvelines Relais & Châteaux Cazaudehore La Forestière

1, avenue du président Kennedy 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye

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Outing ideas in Saint-Germain-en-Laye

Three people on a bench admiring the view of Paris from Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

  • Take a short tour of the city via the Saint-Germain-en-Laye Tourist Office

Accompanied by Victoria, a guide from the Tourist Office, we headed out for a little stroll in the town center of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, discovering historical homes, the castle (which houses the National Archaeology Museum that I talk about just below), all embellished with crispy anecdotes about the royal court in Saint-Germain.

Stone facade with blue door and number 23, Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Blue door with lion's head knockers, former Hôtel de Mademoiselle, number 1 Saint-Germain.Typical half-timbered facade of Saint-Germain-en-Laye with lattice windows.

Private mansion facade in Saint-Germain-en-Laye with plaque reading 'Hôtel de Mme la Marquise de Maintenon'.

Practical Information: you can find these visits all summer long, from July to August, every day, Tuesday to Saturday at 3 PM starting from the Tourist Office / price €5 / duration 1.5 hours

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  • Visit the National Archaeology Museum

Ivory sculpted head at the National Archaeology Museum Saint-Germain-en-Laye.The National Archaeology Museum, which holds a jewel I was telling you about recently, the Dame de Brassempouy, following my little excursion to the Landes, is one of my favorite museums. Naturally, with an archaeologist’s background, I can only be sensitive to the collections of this establishment.

I strongly encourage you to visit it, because it is unfortunately a museum that is not very well known to Parisians due to its, very relative, distance (yes, Parisians have the bad habit of having trouble crossing the ring road to discover the treasures of the Île-de-France region).

Courtyard of the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye with brick and stone Renaissance facade.

Red brick and stone arcades of a historic building in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Stone facade with balustrade and multiple arched windows of the Saint-Germain-en-Laye castle.

In addition to the superb collections presenting the most beautiful French archaeological finds from prehistory to the Gallo-Roman era, the museum is spread out in the magnificent Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, a royal residence for several centuries, birthplace of several sovereigns, which was restored by Eugène Millet starting in 1862.

So the interest of the visit is twofold: to learn and understand the history of national archaeology in the territory, take the opportunity to have a quick review of the history of our origins and our “Gaulish ancestors” (I won’t elaborate on the subject because I could talk about it for hours, as it was my specialty during my archaeology studies), and discover the superb venue that preserves these unique collections.

Rates: €7 / €5.50 reduced rate / free on the first Sunday of the month, for those under 25 (members of the European community), for the unemployed and RSA beneficiaries

Stone sculpted bust, probably in the National Archaeology Museum of Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

Gothic stone rose window in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, probably in the church.

Large Gothic stained glass windows adorned with blue rose patterns, inside Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

The tip: if you don’t have the time or the desire to visit the museum, I still encourage you to pass through the door of the Château to simply visit the courtyard and the chapel, which are accessible for free without buying a ticket for the museum.

National Archaeology Museum

National Domain of Saint-Germain-en-Laye
place Charles de Gaulle 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye

open from 10 AM to 5 PM, every day except Tuesday

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I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover or re-discover Saint-Germain-en-Laye, and if you too have your favorite addresses for going out and visiting this town in the Île-de-France region, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!

 

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use

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