Article written in commercial collaboration with Visit Freiburg and Visit Süden.
I already knew Freiburg im Breisgau, a city in Baden-Württemberg in the southwest of Germany, having passed through it during my trip to the Black Forest in 2019, but it was the first time for the favorite photographer. I returned with him in late September 2026, and this getaway was an absolute favorite for both of us!
Last time, I didn’t have very good weather, which didn’t stop me from appreciating the city, which was already my favorite part of the trip. And this time we were lucky enough to enjoy magnificent weather, as you can see in our photos. In this article, I want to share with you, as usual, the sights and favorite spots discovered during this stay, along with some practical info on how to get to Freiburg and how to get around once you’re there.
Table of Contents
Practical info for visiting Freiburg im Breisgau
Getting to Freiburg by train from Paris
There are several routes from Paris to get to Freiburg im Breisgau by train:
- On the outbound journey, we took a TGV Lyria from Gare de Lyon to Basel (just over 3 hours), and then an ICE train to Freiburg (allow between 35 and 45 minutes depending on the train).
- On the way back, however, we went through the city of Karlsruhe in Germany via an ICE train (about a 1-hour journey) and then took a TGV to Gare de l’Est (a 2-hour 45-minute journey).
- There is apparently a direct TGV from Paris Est, but it runs irregularly: it is best to check on SNCF Connect or the Deutsche Bahn website for the desired date, otherwise transfer in Basel, Strasbourg, or Karlsruhe as we did.
Getting around Freiburg
Distances are short in Freiburg, so you can get around very easily on foot, by bike, or using the tram network (VAG) to go a bit further.
A great deal: the WelcomeKarte
The WelcomeKarte (or “Welcome Card”), a combined ticket for 3 days of mobility in Freiburg and its region, gave us unlimited access to buses, trams, and trains on the RVF network (2nd class, including VAG lines). It also gave us access to the Schauinsland cable car (which I talk about a bit further down in the article) and Freiburg’s 5 municipal museums. And it costs only 27 € (16 € for children up to 14 years old inclusive), so it’s a real bargain! I warmly recommend it. It is valid on the day it is validated and the following two days, but please note, however, that it does not cover the Schlossberg funicular.
The card’s benefits for 3 days:
- Free access to the 5 municipal museums of Freiburg im Breisgau
- Unlimited travel by bus and train on the RVF network (2nd class)
- A round trip aboard the VAG Schauinsland cable car
WelcomeKarte
Price in November 2026 : 27 € for an adult, 16 € for a child up to 14 years old inclusive
Where to buy it : on the RVF mobil, VAG mobil, or DB Navigator apps, at VAG ticket counters, and at the tourist office
What to see and do in Freiburg im Breisgau?
Freiburg im Breisgau was founded in 1120, between the Black Forest and the Rhine plain. The British bombing raid on November 27, 1944 largely destroyed the old town, but the cathedral, with its 116-meter tower, was almost entirely spared. And the best way to discover it is simply to stroll around on foot: for over 50 years, the city center has been largely pedestrianized, and cars have no place there (except for deliveries and taxis). Furthermore, the city has about 490 km of cycling network, so exploring it by bike can also be a great option.
It is also a young city, with around 240,000 inhabitants, including more than 30,000 students. Its university, founded in 1457, is one of the oldest in Germany: originally, four subjects were taught there, which are still taught today (medicine, law, theology, and philosophy). The University of Freiburg also claims to have welcomed Germany’s first officially enrolled female student, as the state of Baden opened the university to women in 1900. Finally, a small point to note, the city is twinned with Besançon (if you follow our adventures, you know we really love this city).
Freiburg im Breisgau Tourist Office
Rathausplatz 2, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau
Discover the Bächle, Freiburg’s small canals
The Bächle, these small stone canals fed by the Dreisam river, line the alleys of the old town. During my first visit, I watched children playing with small wooden boats in them. These canals were once used for water supply, craftsmanship, and firefighting (they are mentioned in texts dating back to 1220). Today, they stretch for about fifteen kilometers in total, part of which is underground. If the water flows, it is because the city is built on a slope: gravity is what carries it.
During this 2026 stay, we came across dry Bächle. Indeed, the water is turned off once a year for maintenance, and this year the shutdown was brought forward to August 28: the Dreisam was very low following the summer 2026 drought, which was particularly severe. A fun little anecdote related to these channels: rumor has it that if you accidentally fall into a Bächle, you will marry someone from Freiburg (I didn’t fall in, so the favorite photographer is relieved…)!
Go up the Schlossberg and take a stroll there
Overlooking the old town of Freiburg im Breisgau, the Schlossberg is a must-visit wooded hill offering an exceptional panorama of the city’s rooftops, the cathedral, and the Rhine plain all the way to the Vosges.
To go up the Schlossberg, you can take the funicular (Schlossbergbahn) at Stadtgarten (note that it is not included in the WelcomeKarte). For the brave ones, you can also walk up via the Salzbüchsletreppe stairs (251 steps) from Kanonenplatz or via paths winding through the vegetation. You can also take the funicular up and walk back down, as we did. The site is home to historical remains of old fortifications and several popular terraces such as Kanonenplatz.
Schlossberg
Funicular departure (Schlossbergbahn): at Stadtgarten, outside the WelcomeKarte
On foot: from Kanonenplatz, take the Salzbüchsletreppe stairs (251 steps) up to the tower
Climb to the very top of the Schlossberg tower: Schlossbergturm
For lovers of even higher viewpoints, I advise you to head to the Schlossberg observation tower (the Schlossbergturm), built with its impressive steel pillars and suspended staircase. Standing 35 meters high, it rises above the trees to offer a spectacular 360° panorama over the entire region. From there, you can see the Dreisam valley, the Kaiserstuhl, and the Rhine plain. Be careful though, if you are prone to vertigo, once you reach the very top, the viewpoint is quite dizzying.
Designed by architect Josef Diel and built in 2002, it was erected near the remains of an old defense tower (“Salzbüchsle”). Its metal structure originally rested on five massive Douglas fir trunks from the 1999 Lothar storm, which have since been replaced by steel tubes to ensure its durability.
Schlossbergturm
Mitte, 79104 Freiburg im Breisgau
Free and open access
Admire the sunset from Kanonenplatz
A quick tip: our guide during our market tour, which I’ll tell you about further down, recommended going to the Schlossberg late in the day to enjoy the beautiful light and sunset over the city. It was a great idea, and the favorite photographer took the opportunity to capture some lovely images of the city! Kanonenplatz is an ideal spot to get both a magnificent view of the city and the beautiful late-day light.
Visit the Augustinermuseum
We fell in love with this magnificent museum housed in the former Augustinian monastery! It is the city’s main art museum and one of the major cultural institutions in the Upper Rhine region. The architecture blends the historical heritage of the site with more modern elements. The museography is very recent and modern, as the museum just completed a renovation spanning over 20 years in 2026. It is truly successful, and the establishment houses some very beautiful collections.
In the large nave space, with its 12-meter-high walls, you encounter the prophets and gargoyles of Freiburg Minster. These are the originals, sheltered from the elements, having been replaced on the cathedral by copies. It’s the same for a good portion of the medieval stained glass windows on display in the museum rooms.
Part of the museum, dedicated to the history of the city, is ideal for a first discovery of the town. In the western part of the museum, two floors are devoted to glass painting from the 13th to the 16th century, as well as 19th-century painting. The Treasury rooms preserve precious works of art from churches and monasteries, including sacred vessels, tapestries, reliquaries, textiles, and liturgical manuscripts. Some pieces are still used during celebrations at the Freiburg Cathedral.
Finally, you can also take a break at Café Kien, located by the charming cloister in the heart of the museum. We didn’t have time to linger there, but the place is sublime and makes you want to sit down for a coffee or something else.
Augustinermuseum
Augustinerplatz, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10 AM to 5 PM (until 7 PM on Friday), closed on Monday
Prices: €12 full fare, €8 reduced fare, free up to 26 years old and with the WelcomeKarte
Link to the Augustinermuseum page on the Freiburg museums website
Visiting the Freiburger Münster: the Freiburg Cathedral
This imposing cathedral features a 116-meter tower that was once called the “fairest tower on earth.” Built between 1200 and 1513, it is one of the few large German Gothic churches that was barely destroyed or altered after its construction was completed. I also recommend climbing the tower (entrance on the south side) for a breathtaking view of the city! We didn’t do it in 2026, but I climbed it back in 2019.
Freiburg Cathedral
Cathedral visit: free and open access during opening hours
Tower/bell tower visit: €5 per adult (price as of November 2026). Open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday to Saturday from 11 AM to 4 PM, Sunday and public holidays from 1 PM to 5 PM. Closed on Wednesday; upper gallery closed in winter
Taking a gourmet guided tour of the Münstermarkt
We discovered the Münstermarkt, a must-visit in the city, during a gourmet guided tour with Julia Senn from Freiburger Leben. While tasting cheeses, cakes, and local products, she told us about regional producers and their commitment to sustainable development. The market is held on the cathedral square, with varying numbers of stalls depending on the season (up to 130 at most).
On the north side, you’ll find regional farmers and producers, while the south side is more of an international market. The cuisine of Freiburg and its surroundings blends influences from neighboring regions (especially Alsace). A little recommendation from our guide: it’s best to come early, especially on Saturdays, otherwise it gets very crowded and you might miss out on tasting all the specialties, some of which can sell out quickly.
My recommended stands not to miss:
- Eat a Lange Rote at the market, this famous sausage sandwich! We went to Sahle-Metzger, but there are several other stands (I had actually already tried one during the food tour of my first visit in 2019).
- On the sweet side, you must try Stefan’s cheese cake (Stefans Käsekuchen), present at the market since 2002: come fairly early if you want to get some because they sell out fast!
- If it’s in season, drink a glass of neuer süßer (a young wine with recent fermentation and therefore low alcohol content).
Münstermarkt
Location: Münsterplatz, on the cathedral square
Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM, Saturday from 7:30 AM to 2 PM, closed on Sunday
Prices for Freiburger Leben’s gourmet guided tour in November 2026: starting from €38 per person, excluding booking fees. The standard tour lasts about 2 hours and takes place in German
Strolling along the Dreisam and through the Wiehre district
Along the Dreisam, you can go dangle your feet in the water at the foot of the Mariensteg footbridge (a pedestrian footbridge from 1900 leading to the Wiehre district). It’s a very popular activity among locals, and I also took part in this delightful tradition, especially given the weather we had.
On the other side of the footbridge, you can head into the Wiehre district, which has a “Jugendstil” (Art Nouveau) vibe. It’s a lovely, rather quiet residential neighborhood where life seems very pleasant. If you happen to walk by, I recommend stopping at Pâtisserie Förster Max (Dreikönigstraße 46). We walked right past it (unfortunately without trying it), but the line of locals outside the shop suggests it’s a quality address.
Witnessing the finish of the cycling race: La Reine
During our stay, we were able to watch part of the finish of La Reine on the cathedral square—a road cycling marathon reserved for women and capped at 500 participants.
Escaping to Schauinsland
For a nature getaway lasting a day or a half-day, I recommend heading to the summit of Schauinsland, one of the major peaks of the Southern Black Forest, culminating at 1,284 meters above sea level. Up there, the air is pure and, on a clear day, the view stretches all the way to the Alps, offering a stunning panorama of the region.
Schauinsland is very easy to reach from the city center: take tram 2 to the final stop in Günterstal, then bus 21 to the cable car station (Schauinslandbahn). It takes about 1 hour to get there, plus a 20-minute cable car ride up. With the WelcomeKarte I mentioned earlier, everything is included, both public transport and the cable car. If you go on the weekend, however, it gets quite crowded, meaning there’s waiting time when you get off the bus, time to buy tickets, and then time to board the cabins.
You then board 7-person cabins on Germany’s longest continuous-movement cable car (3.6 km). A true historical monument and technical feat, the Schauinslandbahn is also the oldest cable car of its kind in Germany. Inaugurated in 1930, it was back then the first of its kind in the world designed to transport people. The ascent is magnificent, offering wonderful views of the surrounding area, and the cabin is stable enough for anyone feeling a bit apprehensive.
Schauinslandbahn
Access: tram 2 to the final stop in Günterstal, then bus 21 to the cable car valley station
Opening hours: daily from 9 AM to 5 PM (9 AM to 6 PM during the Baden-Württemberg summer holidays), with the last cabin departing at closing time. To make a round trip, you must depart no later than 30 minutes before closing
Prices as of November 2026: €15 for a round trip and €12 for a one-way ticket for an adult, free with the WelcomeKarte
Good to know: the cable car and restaurant are closed for autumn maintenance from November 16 to December 4, 2026
Climbing to the top of the panoramic platform: Schauinslandturm
To reach the actual summit of Schauinsland, you have to head to the Schauinslandturm (also called the Eugen-Keidel Tower). Built to rise above the tree canopy, this remarkably designed tower rests on imposing Douglas fir wooden pillars sourced directly from Freiburg’s forests. You ascend via a wide suspended spiral staircase of 85 steps (making access strictly pedestrian). Once you reach the covered platform at the summit, your effort is rewarded with a completely unobstructed 360-degree panorama, offering a magnificent view of the Black Forest, the Rhine plain, the Vosges, and the Alps.
Schauinslandturm
Free and open access
Going for a hike at the summit of Schauinsland
At the top of Schauinsland, numerous hiking trails (varying in how well they are marked) meander through the high-altitude pastures and Black Forest woods, offering walks suitable for everyone as well as more challenging loops. Along the paths, the walk offers fun encounters with the mountain goats grazing freely on the summit’s meadows. Introduced to naturally maintain the landscape and prevent the forest from encroaching on the peaks, these goats add to the charm of the site, and our favorite photographer couldn’t resist taking pictures of them, of course.
Where to have lunch at the top of Schauinsland? Die Bergstation
At the top of the Schauinsland, we stopped for a midday gourmet break at the Die Bergstation café-restaurant, located right next to the cable car. The restaurant features a lovely terrace overlooking the Black Forest. We ordered a schnitzel with its sauce and a plant-based hummus dish, paired with a small wheat beer and a glass of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) from Kaltenbach. Good to know: terrace seats cannot be reserved, so if you want to enjoy the view, don’t arrive too late.
Die Bergstation
Schauinslandstraße 390, 79254 Oberried, at the upper cable car station
Good to know: closed during autumn maintenance from November 16 to December 4, 2026
My favorite food spots in Freiburg im Breisgau
Where to grab a coffee? Origin Coffee Stories
On the day we arrived, we stopped for a gourmet coffee break at Origin Coffee Stories, a specialty coffee shop nestled in Schusterstraße, right in the heart of the old town. Even though the Bächle were dry at the time, we still enjoyed our coffee on the terrace right above one of these little canals, just like the locals! A simple moment, but one of our fondest memories of the city—not to mention that the coffee, from an artisanal roaster, was exceptionally good.
Origin Coffee Stories
Origin Coffee Stories, Schusterstraße 34, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau
Go for a Baden wine tasting at Alte Wache
I had already tasted wines at Alte Wache during the food tour on my first visit in 2019, and this time we came back for a guided wine tasting of the region’s produce. The venue occupies the city’s old guardhouse from the days when Freiburg was Austrian: downstairs is more of a bar, while upstairs you taste wines complete with expert explanations.
We sampled several regional wines from the Baden wine region, starting with two wines featuring Gutedel, the local grape variety: the first one easy-drinking, the second more complex. Then we moved on to Pinot Gris for the white and Pinot Noir for the red. This tasting was truly an opportunity to discover some lovely wines and get to know German wine, which we ultimately knew quite little about!
The place also serves as a showcase for Baden wines, and the house makes its own wines as well, which you can purchase at the vinotheque. Another specialty invented here that is an absolute must-try if you stop by Alte Wache is their Kalte Sofie (available in a red wine version and a sweet white wine version), a slightly alcoholic iced wine drink (sort of like a frozen wine). It is delicious and super refreshing during the summer months.
Alte Wache
Alte Wache, Münsterplatz 38, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau
Good to know: wine bar and vinotheque (bottle sales) open Monday to Saturday, guided tastings by appointment
Please note: Excessive drinking is dangerous to your health. Enjoy in moderation!
Where to grab a quick lunch? The Markthalle
Located on Grünwälderstraße, this covered market—which feels somewhat like a food court—houses numerous food stalls offering all kinds of cuisine (German, Indian, Brazilian, vegetarian, Italian, etc.) and is the ideal spot for a quick lunch.
It features various local and international food stands (19 in total). For our part, we chose to try two different stalls: a spätzle bar and an Indian stand where we got a vegetarian dish. We then sat down at one of the market tables with my favorite photographer to share our discoveries and plates.
Markthalle
Grünwälderstraße 4 and Kaiser-Joseph-Straße 237, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau
Hours: Monday to Thursday from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM, Friday and Saturday from 8:00 AM to midnight, closed on Sundays and public holidays
Where to enjoy a Michelin-starred dinner? Restaurant Hawara
We had the chance to experience a Michelin-starred dinner at Hawara, a trendy and eco-friendly address where a young, friendly, and relaxed team serves sustainable gourmet cuisine. Founded by Nicolai Heuer and Yannik Spielmann, the venue takes its name from the Viennese word Hawara (meaning “good friend”), reflecting a warm atmosphere that breaks away from fine dining codes. The restaurant is located in the Wiehre district, which I mentioned earlier in the article.
Awarded one Michelin star, the establishment takes its eco-friendly approach so far as to cultivate its own organic vegetable garden in the neighboring district of Sankt Georgen. From Thursday to Saturday evenings, they offer a unique tasting menu, available in both omnivore and vegetarian versions, focused on showcasing local and seasonal produce. On Wednesdays, the restaurant serves a bistro menu. This commitment extends to the drinks menu, featuring a selection of natural wines as well as homemade non-alcoholic fermented creations. Freiburg im Breisgau stands out as a true gourmet capital, boasting no fewer than 5 Michelin-starred restaurants in 2026, which is no small feat!
Restaurant Hawara
Hawara, Dreikönigstraße 8, 79102 Freiburg im Breisgau
Prices in November 2026: tasting menu from Thursday to Saturday evening at 130 € per person (omnivore or vegetarian); bistro menu on Wednesday
Hours: Wednesdays from 6:00 PM and Thursday to Saturday from 6:30 PM, closed Sunday to Tuesday
Where to have dinner on a rooftop? Café Hermann
Café Hermann, located right next to the train station, features a very nice rooftop with views overlooking the Konzerthaus (concert hall) and Stühlinger Kirchplatz. To start, we shared an oven-roasted beefsteak tomato with burrata, followed by an Alsatian Flammekueche with Black Forest bacon (naturally) and mountain cheese, as well as a chimichurri chicken dish.
Café Hermann
Café Hermann, Wentzingerstraße 15, 79106 Freiburg im Breisgau
Prices in November 2026: tomato with burrata €11.90, Alsatian Flammekueche €14.90, chimichurri chicken €21.90
Hours: Monday to Thursday from 9:00 AM to midnight, Friday and Saturday from 9:00 AM to 1:00 AM, Sunday from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM (the rooftop opens weather permitting)
Where to stay during a trip to Freiburg im Breisgau
A hotel in Freiburg? Designhotel am Stadtgarten
For our 2026 trip, we unpacked our bags at Designhotel Am Stadtgarten, a contemporary, colorful boutique-style 4-star hotel. It is ideally nestled on the edge of the Stadtgarten, the large park from which the funicular departs to climb up the Schlossberg slopes. Our room overlooked the back of the building, making it exceptionally quiet, which I really appreciated.
The property is also located just a few minutes’ walk from the historic center. Special mention goes to the breakfast buffet, which featured quite a few local products from Baden-Württemberg, including artisanal breads, organic options, and plant-based alternatives. A wonderful place to stay close to the heart of the city that is modern, relaxing, and a strategic base for exploring Freiburg im Breisgau car-free!
Designhotel am Stadtgarten
Designhotel am Stadtgarten, Karlstraße 12, 79104 Freiburg im Breisgau
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Thank you to Visit Freiburg, Visit Süden, and Article Onze for organizing this trip.
That wraps up our getaway in Freiburg im Breisgau! If this region tempts you, also check out our articles on the Black Forest, Mulhouse, the 3-Country bike loop, and the Alsace wine route, and feel free to let me know in the comments what your favorite addresses in Freiburg are.
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, the photographer's authorization is mandatory prior to any use
