I first discovered this city in the Haut-Rhin department of Alsace (the Grand-Est region) many years ago, and it was also the starting point for the 3 Countries Cycling Loop I completed in 2021 with my friend Mathilde. I really had to return with my favorite photographer to put together a little Mulhouse city guide featuring my sightseeing ideas and recommendations for great spots!
If you wish to explore and visit the city of Mulhouse, I believe a 2-day weekend is perfect. You could even arrive the evening before to have two full days on-site. The destination is easily accessible from Paris by train, and there are even TGV Lyria trains that reach Mulhouse directly in about 2 hours and 40 minutes. It’s the ideal destination for a quick getaway from the capital. My favorite photographer and I visited Mulhouse at the beginning of June 2022.
Table of Contents
What to see and do in Mulhouse?
Mulhouse is a city that is very easy to explore on foot. And when you want to head a bit further out (such as to visit the Automobile Museum or the Train Museum, which I mention below), you can take the city’s public transport trams.
You cannot miss the main square of the city with its temple (and yes, be careful, despite its appearance, it is not a church), Place de la Réunion, which is the nerve center of the city. For more information, to pick up some documentation about the city, or to do some shopping for local products, do not hesitate to stop by the Mulhouse Tourist Office.
Mulhouse and Region Tourist and Convention Office
1 avenue Robert Schuman 68100 Mulhouse
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Go for a street-art walk
In Mulhouse, street art is an ancient tradition, as facades were already being embellished with large decorative frescoes in the 16th century, as evidenced by the elegant houses on the Place de la Réunion. Today, you can pick up a ‘Sightseeing route: Street art in Mulhouse‘ paper map at the tourist office. Then, all you have to do is follow the route and discover the street-art works scattered throughout the city. Obviously, since street art is an ephemeral art form, it is possible that some of the works we saw may no longer be visible during your walk.
Here are some names of artists you can discover in Mulhouse: Clet; Vinie; Christo; Kesa; Flexo; Williann; Jana & JS; Le mur Mulhouse…
Mulhouse Street-art Circuit
Link to the digital version of the street-art circuit
or the brochure to print online
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Take a guided cycling tour with a greeter
During my visit to Mulhouse in 2021 for my cycling itinerary, the Three Countries Loop, we took a guided cycling tour with Florent, a greeter (locals who introduce their city on a volunteer and free basis, whom I have already mentioned several times on the blog).
He took us into the industrial district of the city and to the former textile printing workers’ houses to show us ‘his Mulhouse’. It was an opportunity to understand the rich industrial past of the city of Mulhouse (with the former DMC factory, for example, which makes sewing thread and still employs about 200 people today). And being on bikes allowed us to quickly move away from the city center and go see those slightly more off-the-beaten-path places that you rarely visit when on foot.
We also discovered the Mulhouse workers’ estate, a neighborhood for workers from the city’s textile factories built at the end of the 19th century. I also recommend you go see the Cité Manifeste, a complex of 61 housing units, incorporating the philosophy and urban planning of the workers’ estate while reinterpreting it through big names in architecture for the 150th anniversary of the workers’ estate.
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Visit the Train City (Cité du Train)
The Cité du Train is the largest museum dedicated to railways in Europe and is definitely worth a visit if you are passing through Mulhouse. It retraces the evolution of railway technology through one of the world’s most important collections of locomotives and carriages. In total, more than 100 exceptional locomotives, carriages, and wagons are on display, as well as numerous scale models and thousands of railway items spread over 60,000 m2. In 2021, this museum celebrated its 50th anniversary!
We had a wonderful, very fun visit that felt like a return to childhood. Be sure to take the site’s small trains that will take you on a tour in an original way. It’s also a chance for a little trip back in time, and you can even get inside some old train carriages and even an old Parisian subway car! This visit certainly made me want to take a train trip like the Orient Express.
Cité du Train, SNCF Heritage
2 rue Alfred de Glehn 68200 Mulhouse
Getting there without a car: accessible from the Mulhouse train station by tram line 3 or Tram-Train, stop ‘Musées’
Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Prices: €14 / €11 / €9.50
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Visit the National Automobile Museum
This is the largest automobile museum in the world, with more than 400 exceptional cars presented over 25,000 m2 in a former spinning mill. It opened its doors in 1982 and presents the collection of the Schlumpf brothers, which is absolutely incredible!
The venue offers several thematic areas, films, a temporary exhibition, and activities to discover the history of the automobile. Even if you’re not a car fan (which is my case), I found this visit truly fascinating and I warmly recommend discovering this museum during your time in Mulhouse. And obviously, if you’re an automobile enthusiast, it’s an essential visit!
National Automobile Museum
17 Rue de la Mertzau, 68100 Mulhouse
To get there without a car: take tram #1, stop ‘Cité de l’Auto’
Open 7 days a week, except December 25
Prices: €18 full price / €14 reduced / €10 children from 4 to 17 years old / free for -4 years / €48 family rate for 2 adults and 2 children from 4 to 17 years old
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Visit the Mulhouse Historical Museum
This museum, located in the former Town Hall of Mulhouse (a Renaissance edifice dating back to 1552), plunges us back into the history of the Republic of Mulhouse, while also helping us discover the art of living of Alsatians of the past, from the Neolithic period to the 19th century. The museography is a bit dated, but the place is not lacking in charm, and it is above all an opportunity to enter this beautiful building and discover, for example, the magnificent council chamber of the former Town Hall.
Mulhouse Historical Museum
4 Rue des Archives, 68100 Mulhouse
Great tip: free admission for all
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Visit the Mulhouse Zoological and Botanical Park
I’m not a huge fan of zoos in their old form, but I notice that today’s zoological parks, fortunately, are investing more and more in nature and species preservation by supporting the creation of nature reserves on-site (such as the one for lemurs in Madagascar for the Mulhouse Zoo), as well as refuges in ‘in-situ conservation’ projects. The park also participates in the reintroduction of endangered species into their natural environment.
The history of the place is also very interesting since it was opened at the time by the captains of Mulhouse industry (gathered in the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, which still exists today) so that their workers would have a space for relaxation and walking. Furthermore, its botanical diversity comes from the travels of the textile industrialists of the time, who brought back species to be inspired by for fabric printing patterns. As a result, the park is very large and features many species. The area with the polar bears is very impressive, in my opinion, with a transparent pool that allows you to see the bears evolving and playing in the water. It’s a very nice outing to do, especially with the family.
My tip: to get to the park on foot from the city center, you can go through the Rebberg district; the path goes up a bit, but it’s quite charming, and I recommend taking the time to stroll through the district and discover its pretty passages…
Mulhouse Zoological and Botanical Park
111 Av. de la 1ère Division Blindée, 68100 Mulhouse
Prices: between €11 and €17 depending on the time of year for full price / free for children under 4 and job seekers
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Do the Wackes Food Tour
During our stay in 2022 in Mulhouse, we tested the Gourmet Walk or Wackes Food Tour (which means ‘rascal’ in Alsatian, and is also the nickname given to the people of Mulhouse), offered for the second year by the city’s Tourist Office.
The principle: The Food Tour offers 6 coupons to use at several addresses favored by the people of Mulhouse to eat for almost an entire day for the modest price of €32. A great concept and a very good bargain. For the price, it’s really cost-effective; you discover plenty of addresses, the participants/venues are very accommodating, and you are received very well everywhere. I loved it, and I highly recommend it!
How does this Food Tour work?
- The equivalent of the 6 coupons corresponds to a (very!) full meal
- Coupons can be used separately
- Coupons must be handed to the service providers in exchange for the tasting
- To enjoy all the addresses in one day, the circuit is optimal from Tuesday to Saturday; opening days and hours for the establishments are indicated on the document you will be given
- The tour is self-guided
- The walk is about 2 km. If you choose to have lunch at Le Pantographe, you will have to walk a little more (3.5 km in total)
The gourmet addresses participating in the 2022 Food Tour (I’ll tell you about those I tested through the Food Tour in the ‘favorite spots’ section below):
- Tilvist, Coff’tea shop
- Jacques Bockel Chocolate Factory
- Mealtin’ Potes Restaurant
- Le Pantographe Restaurant
- Les Domaines Qui Montent
- Kōhī, Coffee Shop
- La Quille, Wine Bar
Wackes Mulhouse Food Tour
Price: €32 per Gourmet Walk for 1 person
To book your Food Tour!
My favorite spots in Mulhouse
As usual, you will find below my selection of favorite spots in Mulhouse (several restaurants, tea room, chocolate factory, coffee shop, and a hotel) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to Alsace.
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The Jacques Bockel Chocolate Factory
This chocolate factory, installed in Saverne in Alsace, offers original recipes and roasts its own cocoa. It has several counters in Alsace, including one in the Mulhouse city center. During the summer period, the brand also offers very good artisanal ice creams that I recommend you taste.
2022 Food Tour: we were entitled to a chocolate tasting, and we were also able to have a small scoop of ice cream, given the scorching temperatures during our visit!
Jacques Bockel Chocolate Factory
10 Rue Mercière, 68100 Mulhouse
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Tilvist, Coff’Tea Shop
This hybrid place is both a shop and a tea room, and it is run by a woman full of pep and energy. The place is ideal for a casual lunch break, an afternoon snack, breakfast, or for brunch on the weekend. In addition, cultural, musical, or wellness-related events are regularly organized there. I had already tested this spot during my previous visit to Mulhouse in 2021 during a lunch on the terrace, and I am a fan of this place.
2022 Food Tour: during our stay in 2022, we used one of our ‘Food Tour’ vouchers to have breakfast at Tilvist with 1 hot drink, 1 homemade juice, and 1 slice of pie or 1 bowl of cottage cheese with granola.
Tilvist
23 rue de la Moselle 68100 Mulhouse
open every day except Monday and Sunday
Lunch formula with drink of choice + main course + dessert for €13.50
Link to the venue website
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Restaurant Mealtin’Potes
This restaurant offers homemade cuisine prepared from fresh seasonal market products. Nothing exceptional, but we had a good time there. For warmer days, the address also has an interior terrace that is full of charm and well-shaded.
2022 Food Tour: we went to eat our lunch dish at Mealtin’Potes and we chose a dish from the à la carte menu (as it was Saturday and there was no ‘dish of the day’), which was supposed to be smaller than normal dishes, but actually it was still very generous! We also had a glass of wine from the menu with our ‘wine’ coupon. Normally we should have sat at the bar, but as there was space, we were seated on the terrace, which was very nice.
Mealtin’Potes Restaurant
6 rue des Halles 68100 Mulhouse
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Kōhī, Coffee shop
This high-quality little coffee shop is located right across from Le Gambrinus (which I talk about just below), and the coffees are truly excellent. The owner of the place is a true connoisseur and enthusiast, and you can trust him for coffee advice. Plus, I really liked the ambiance and atmosphere of the place; it’s very laid-back, and there are actually board games for free use in the shop.
2022 Food Tour: this was our coffee/dessert stop for the Food Tour with a very good specialty coffee and a cookie to go with it and finish our gourmet walk on a sweet note.
Kōhī, Coffee shop
4 Rue des Franciscains, 68100 Mulhouse
Price: espresso €1.80 / Flat White €3.40 / Chai latte €3.60 / cafe latte €3.90 / cookie €2
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The Zoo Inn (Auberge du Zoo)
The Auberge du Zoo was built in 1902 based on the project of Mulhouse architect Joseph Trumm. It is located within the Mulhouse Zoo (which I talked about in the previous section), although access is possible independently and from Avenue de la 9e Division d’Infanterie Coloniale.
The place is really worth it for its early 20th-century architecture and its setting, in my opinion, more so than for its cuisine. It is, by the way, a popular venue for family reunions and birthdays on weekends, as we could see during our lunch. On the plate side, you’ll find very hearty traditional cuisine, and we took the opportunity to taste some Alsatian specialties.
We tasted: as a starter, the duo of goose and duck foie gras with Gewurztraminer jelly and Alsatian saffron (€19); the choucroute garnie (sauerkraut) (€21); veal Cordon Bleu with Munster cheese (€25); the address also has a nice selection of Alsatian wines; for dessert, I recommend you test the Alba Glaces ice creams, made in Alsace, which offers very original flavors like lemon, Schweppes, and Sichuan pepper.
Auberge du Zoo
31 avenue de la 9e Division d’Infanterie Coloniale 68100 Mulhouse
Prices: discovery menu €36 / Riesthal menu €45 / Zoo Escape menu €59
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Gambrinus
This address is truly the ‘place to be’ for the people of Mulhouse! People come here to eat a tarte flambée and drink a local beer or one from the surrounding area. The service is super friendly and very relaxed. At the back of the place, there is also a foosball table and a dartboard for those who want to take advantage of them during an evening with friends. Finally, Le Gambrinus also extends out onto the street on sunny days with a large terrace that is lively on summer evenings.
To taste: the flam’s (price between €7.50 and €11), and I obviously recommend the Munster (€9.50), very local; the pair of Gendarmes (€5), a local charcuterie from the Boucherie Wittmann Brand; the wide choice of beers (draft pint between €5 and €10.50).
Gambrinus
5 Rue des Franciscains, 68100 Mulhouse
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La Quille, Wine Bar
This very cool address is a wine bar located in the city center, but the venue also offers a dining option with some very good small plates to share. The establishment’s ambiance is casual and friendly, and the terrace set up on the pedestrian street right in front is not lacking in charm for the summer season.
We tasted: the small mixed cheese and charcuterie plate (€11.90) with local artisan products; the egg infused with rosemary with beets and vegetable tartare (€5.50); artichoke and mint cream (€5.50); for dessert, Elisa’s tiramisu (€6.50); glasses of wine between €4 and €7.50.
La Quille, wine bar
10 rue de la Moselle 68100 Mulhouse
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Where to stay in Mulhouse? Hotel Berti
Opened very recently in 2022, in a former 19th-century master’s house, this arty hotel is very well located for a stay in Mulhouse without a car because it is not very far from the train station and less than 10 minutes from the city center. The staff there is super welcoming and very helpful, which is a good point to note.
We stayed in room #10, very quiet as it faced the back of the establishment. My only slight complaint is the lack of decoration in the rooms, I found, but as the hotel had just opened at the time of our stay, I tell myself that it is probably something that will be fleshed out over time. On the breakfast side, I noted a real effort with quite a lot of local products and good coffee as well.
Hotel Berti
3 rue de l’Est 68100 Mulhouse
Room prices: from €65 when booking through the hotel website
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Thanks to the Mulhouse and Region Tourist and Convention Office for organizing this stay in Mulhouse in 2022.
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to visit Mulhouse and Alsace, and if you also have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and MelleBonPlan Photos not copyright-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
