Besançon is known as the capital of Time and for its citadel, a Vauban masterpiece and UNESCO World Heritage site. Despite its treasures, it remains an underrated destination in my opinion, and I will try to convince you that spending a long weekend visiting and discovering the capital of the Doubs (in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region) is definitely a great idea! Besançon is one of the greenest cities in France, surrounded by seven hills, and it truly exudes a certain sweetness of life. For proof, consider that it was one of the first cities in France to create a pedestrianized zone in its city center.
I first discovered Besançon in 2011 for a friend’s bachelorette party, and I have very fond memories of it. More recently, I was lucky enough to return in May 2021 and November 2022 with the favorite photographer, who was delighted to discover the city. Below, I offer some ideas for visits to make in Besançon, as well as a selection of outdoor activities. For my traditional list of great addresses in Besançon (how could I go without it!?), I recommend checking out my other article specifically covering this topic.
Practical Info: How to get to Besançon from Paris?
By train/TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon (there is a transfer to a regional TER train in Dijon or Dôle)Allow about 2.5 to 3 hours for the journey
Table of Contents
Sightseeing ideas in Besançon
It is very pleasant (and easy) to walk around Besançon. You will notice the beautiful unity of the historic center, which is the 2nd largest protected sector in France, with its recognizable stones (in blue and yellow hues) all sourced from Chailluz, a local stone quarry. Also, a detail you might not notice at first glance: from the sky, the historic center, enclosed in a meander of the Doubs, looks like a horseshoe (you can see this especially if you look at maps of the city).
In addition to the sightseeing ideas suggested below, I recommend taking a look at the Visit Besançon app, which has been available since July 2019. You will find several sightseeing routes to follow on your smartphone, including one we tried in 2021 about the women of Besançon who made their mark on the city’s history, and two others we tested in 2022, which I discuss below.
Among my other recommendations, I suggest taking a stroll toward the Cité des Arts (located across from the Doubs), which houses the Frac Franche-Comté and the Conservatory. I really loved the architecture of the place, redesigned in 2013 by a Japanese architect. Another place to see is the Place des Grands Hommes, where you’ll find the birth house of Victor Hugo but also that of the Lumière brothers (yes, I was very surprised to learn that as a Lyonnaise). If you are curious, know that all the courtyards in the old town contain open-air staircases, which are very characteristic of Besançon’s urban design and were built on the outside to save space. And finally, if you love archaeology like I do, you absolutely must see the Black Gate (Porte Noire), a vestige of a Gallo-Roman triumphal arch built under the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century AD.
In 2022, we also discovered another neighborhood on the right bank: the Quartier Battant, a working-class area where tanners and wine workers once lived. Today, it is a diverse and multicultural neighborhood with restaurants offering cuisines from all over the world. If you go there, also don’t miss the magnificent 16th-century inner courtyard of the Hôtel de Champagney.
Museum tip for Besançon: with a single ticket to one of the city’s museums, you can get free access to the other municipal museums for a year (for this, purchase a combined ticket for the Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology, the Museum of Time, and the Victor Hugo Birth House)!
Great deal: the Besançon Tourism Pass
This pass offers admission to the Citadel + Victor Hugo House + Museum of Time + Museum of Fine Arts + free access to the Ginko public transport network
Rates: from €14.90 (available in 3 durations: 24, 48, or 72 hours)
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Visiting the Citadel of Besançon
The Citadel of Besançon is one of the masterpieces of Vauban’s military architecture. It covers over 12 hectares and was built in two stages by Vauban himself at the request of Louis XIV (Vauban’s first plans were executed in 1668, and the second set in 1674 during the siege of the city; at that point, the architect realized the weaknesses in his initial sketches before modifying them). It took no less than 10 years of construction and numerous workers to finalize the structure.
Today, the Citadel belongs to the city of Besançon, which bought it in 1959. Because of its bastioned architecture, it is part of a group of twelve French sites known as the “Vauban Fortifications,” listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008. This interest and recognition of Vauban’s work are explained by the fact that the achievements of this military engineer influenced military architecture as a whole for centuries!
Inside the Citadel site, there is a Museum that preserves biodiversity (with a zoo, aquarium, insectarium, farm, and also a bat sanctuary, and the whole area will soon be a Natura 2000-labeled site…), a Comtois Ethnographic Museum, and a Museum of Resistance and Deportation with a collection of concentration camp art (this section is scheduled to reopen in 2023). I first discovered the Citadel in 2012, but I was happy to visit it again during this trip.
Of course, in addition to these different museums, you can simply stroll around the site and admire its architecture. I also recommend taking a walk along the wall walks, which offer a very beautiful view of the city and the surrounding area. The site also offers guided tours for those who want to delve deeper into the discovery and knowledge of the Citadel, and I recommend the one called “Secret Citadel” because it allows you to discover the underground gallery that is not normally accessible to the public.
New in 2021: Since this year, the site has offered an Escape Game created by Clé du Bastion: The Affair of the Poisons (Easy level). We tested it during our visit, and I must say we had a great time; plus, you learn a lot about this famous poisoning scandal that rocked the 17th century.
Visit and escape game in 2021
Vauban Citadel
Rates: €12.50 for adults in high season and €9.50 in low season, with a reduced rate of €9.50 all year round / free for children under 4
Annual membership: €21 solo / €42 duo / €52.50 family
Escape Game rates: from €20 per person for a group of 6 people
Tip: the free MaCitadelle app with routes, investigation games, wildlife discoveries…
Secret Citadel Tour (in summer): €3.20 for adults / €2.10 for ages 8-17 (in addition to Citadel admission)
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Discover the Bien Urbain street art trail
Bien Urbain is a street art festival that takes place every year in Besançon and its surroundings. Over the years, 342 works have been created by 133 artists from 26 nationalities between Besançon and Saint-Vit.
And even if you are not there during the festival, you can still enjoy discovering the works that are still in place while taking a walk through the city. To find the street art works from the festival, simply pick up a map at the Tourist Office or look at the interactive map that you can find on the festival’s website (link below).
Bien Urbain Street Art Festival
June 3 to June 20, 2021
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Visiting the Museum of Time in Besançon
This very beautiful museum is housed in the former Palais Renaissance de Granvelle (an illustrious figure who served as the first minister to Charles V in the 16th century). Visiting the museum’s permanent exhibition is an opportunity to learn more about the history of mechanical watchmaking (a principle invented by the Chinese in the 10th century) as well as about the city of Besançon, with which it maintains very strong ties. Indeed, Besançon is considered the capital of Watchmaking (there was a Municipal School of Watchmaking there in the 19th century) or, more precisely, of the wristwatch. For your information, the wristwatch as we know it today is a military invention that developed particularly during the First World War.
The museum’s collections bring together 1,500 watches, blanks, and cases, more than a hundred grandfather clocks, Comtoise clocks, and pendulums, a set of 2,000 engravings related to watchmaking from the 16th to the 19th century, as well as numerous tools, machines, and past and present scientific materials collected from high-tech European laboratories.
I advise you not to miss the Gallery of Time, for example, which helps you understand how humans have calculated time throughout the ages. You learn in particular that the pendulum clock appeared in the 17th century and was invented by a Dutch clockmaker for Louis XIV. Finally, under the eaves, you will find a very beautiful relief map of Besançon, which is a reproduction of Ladevèze’s 1722 map, kept at the Musée de l’Armée at Les Invalides in Paris.
Museum of Time, Besançon
96 Grande Rue, 25000 Besançon
Rates: €8.40 / reduced €4.20 / free for all on the 1st Sunday of each month, during nocturnes and national events (European Heritage Days, European Night of Museums…)
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Visiting the Utinam watchmaking workshop and boutique
Utinam is one of the last watchmaking manufacturers in Besançon specializing in contemporary Comtoise clocks, with the motto “Invent the time“. In the boutique located in the heart of the historic city center, you can admire their contemporary mechanical clocks with a patented automatic balancing movement. The company has also created monumental clocks, such as the one on the facade of the city’s Museum of Fine Arts.
The pieces are obviously manufactured on-site, and Utinam also offers workshops for individuals if you want to discover all the secrets of watchmaking.
Utinam Besançon
117/119 Grande Rue, 25000 Besançon
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Visiting the Museum of Fine Arts of Besançon
This museum of fine arts has a long history, as its collections were established at the very end of the 17th century when Abbé Boisot bequeathed his collection to the city, composed largely of the collection of the powerful Granvelle family, with the condition that it be shown to the public. This was very pioneering at the time.
In 1843, the collections were installed in the new grain hall, a building designed by the architect Pierre Marnotte. This remains the case today, even though the building was expanded in the 1960s by Louis Miquel (a collaborator of Le Corbusier) with a raw concrete structure built in the building’s former central courtyard. Since then, the museum has also benefited from a renovation in 2018 that respected the site’s two historical architectures.
In the collection tour, we discover both a rich regional archaeology museum, with the three-horned Bull of Avrigney as a centerpiece (see photo below), as well as a beautiful collection of medieval sculptures and Renaissance paintings. The museum also showcases contemporary art by integrating it into the tour on a permanent basis with works from the FRAC Franche-Comté (which I talk about right after) and the CNAP (National Center for Visual Arts).
Finally, do not miss the Besson collection on the top floor (an art critic from the early 20th century) who donated his art collection to the Museum of Fine Arts of Besançon in 1971.
Visits in 2021 and 2022
Museum of Fine Arts of Besançon
1 Place de la Révolution, 25000 Besançon
Closed on Tuesdays
Rates: €8.40 / reduced €4.20 / free for all on the 1st Sunday of each month, during nocturnes and national events (European Heritage Days, European Night of Museums…)
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Temporary exhibition on Juliette Roche – 2021
During our visit in 2021, we also visited a temporary exhibition on an all-too-unknown artist from the early 20th century, Juliette Roche, who was a painter, illustrator, and writer. I have included some photos of the exhibition below to give you a glimpse of this artist’s work.
Temporary exhibition Juliette Roche the unusual
until September 19, 2021
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Temporary exhibition The Beautiful Century – 2022/2023
This magnificent exhibition, very rich in exhibited works, allowed visitors to discover the flourishing architecture and artistic life of this period in Besançon, following the conquest by Louis XIV until the French Revolution (1674 – 1792).
Temporary exhibition The Beautiful Century
from November 10, 2022 to March 19, 2023
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Visiting the Regional Contemporary Art Fund of Franche-Comté
During our stay in Besançon in 2022, we went to discover this contemporary art exhibition space located near the Cité des Arts, which I mentioned in the introduction to this section, an industrial brownfield rehabilitated by the internationally renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. The institution has occupied the former river port of Besançon, settling into a 1930s brick warehouse located on the banks of the Doubs.
This was an opportunity for us to discover at the time the temporary exhibition “The Beauty of the Devil” (from October 16, 2022, to March 12, 2023), which explored the presence of Satan in contemporary art from the perspective of his depiction and transformations. Although this exhibition is now over, the venue regularly hosts temporary exhibitions and activities centered on the FRAC Franche-Comté collections to showcase the great diversity of art today.
Regional Contemporary Art Fund of Franche-Comté
2, passage des Arts 25000 Besançon
Rates : €5 / reduced €3 / free for all on Sundays, for under 18s, job seekers, artists, students, and art teachers
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Visiting the Victor Hugo House
The famous writer was indeed born in Besançon at number 140 on the Grande Rue, on February 26, 1802. Since 2013, the city of Besançon has presented a contemporary scenography in his birthplace with a lot of multimedia that highlights the politically engaged man that Victor Hugo was. We were able to follow a guided tour during our visit, and if you have the opportunity, I recommend this experience because it is truly very instructive and interesting.
Also to see, even without going into the museum: The pharmacy/apothecary that was there at the time of Victor Hugo’s birth and which was later moved in 1909 (the date when the furniture was put up for sale). An industrialist then donated it to the city of Nice in 1954. Subsequently, the Renaissance du Vieux Besançon association campaigned for its repatriation, and you can now admire it behind a display case next to the entrance of the Victor Hugo House.
Victor Hugo’s Birth House
140, Grande Rue, 25000 Besançon
Rates: €3 / reduced €2 / free for all on Sundays and public holidays, and also for under 18s, students, job seekers, and people with disabilities
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Visiting the CIAP (Center for Interpretation of Architecture and Heritage)
The CIAP consists of a permanent exhibition presenting the city’s architecture and heritage in all its components in a fun way, as well as a space for temporary exhibitions. Indeed, since 1986, the city of Besançon has been labeled “City of Art and History,” and in this sense, it is committed to promoting and enlivening its heritage and architecture. It’s an opportunity to learn interesting information about the urban planning and architecture of this city, which is notably one of the beautiful cities in France in terms of built heritage from the 18th century, along with Nancy.
CIAP / Center for Interpretation of Architecture and Heritage
free admission
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A walk to discover the 18th-century heritage of Besançon
It is considered that the first golden age of Besançon took place in the 16th century, and the second golden age of the city took place in the 18th century, the Age of Enlightenment or the “Beautiful Century” as the temporary exhibition held at the city’s Museum of Fine Arts in 2022/2023 called it. At that time, Besançon was a parliamentary, university, and episcopal city. And the city of Besançon is particularly rich in beautiful built heritage from that time, which is still largely visible in the city today.
To see: the Hôtel Pourcheresse de Fraisans, dating from 1739 and containing the most beautiful 18th-century staircase in the city; the Sainte Madeleine Church, which is the most beautiful 17th-century church in Besançon and the masterpiece of architect Nicolas Nicole (his other masterpiece is the Refuge Chapel); the L’Intranquille bookstore, which is housed in an old 18th-century church; the Hôtel Terrier de Santans; the uniform facade of the Quai Vauban (late 17th and early 18th century); the Saint-Pierre church, built between 1782 and 1786 in the shape of a Greek cross.
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Visiting the Saint-Jean Cathedral
This church, built starting in the 3rd century and reconstructed several times, includes Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque sections. As a very surprising particularity, this cathedral possesses two opposing choirs, which is very rare! Also, do not miss the astronomical clock of the cathedral, which is classified as a historical monument and dates from the 19th century.
Saint-Jean Cathedral of Besançon
10 Rue de la Convention, 25000 Besançon
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Visiting the Synagogue of Besançon
This synagogue was built between 1866 and 1869, and it is the main Jewish place of worship in the city of Besançon. The layout, decor, and furniture make it one of the most original buildings in the city, with its pronounced Orientalism. You can enter on Saturdays (while being very respectful and discreet, of course), and the city of Besançon also sometimes organizes guided tours of the building.
Synagogue of Besançon
23 quai de Strasbourg, 25000 Besançon
5 outdoor activity ideas in and around Besançon
Besançon is also a city surrounded by nature, and the residents love to engage in various outdoor activities. As you can see below, there is no shortage of possibilities in this area.
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Take an electric boat trip on the Doubs
This very quiet activity is perfect for families or friends and allows you to discover the city of Besançon from a different point of view. The departure is from the Capitainerie de Saint Paul (a quick explanation of how the boat works is given at the time of departure to the boat’s “captain”), and then you sail away (well, at a slow pace, you won’t have too much wind in your hair on this trip)!
During the tour, you cross two locks (it reminded me of my experience of river tourism on the Canal du Midi), one of which requires getting out of the boat to manually operate it, and you also pass through the Citadel tunnel. In any case, this trip was a moment of fun for our small group, which I will remember for a long time!
Tested in 2021
Doubs Plaisance
Halte du Moulin St Paul – 4 Pont de la République 25 000 Besançon
Rates: €50 for the tour of the Loop (1.5 – 2 hours of navigation), can carry up to 5 people per boat
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Take a walk along the Doubs
Following two complementary sightseeing routes (“Rives et Remparts” and “Water: Let’s Trace Back to the Source”) via the Visit Besançon app I mentioned in the introduction, we set off for a pastoral walk along the loop of the Doubs that encircles Besançon. We couldn’t complete the full circuit of the city, but we really enjoyed this walk by the water. Plus, with the pretty autumn colors of the season, it was very beautiful. On the way, you can see the Minotaur statue by artist Jens Boettcher and perhaps meet, as we did, the little furry residents of the banks of the Doubs (see photo below).
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Go for a bike ride along the EuroVelo 6 with Mycycle
As you know, since our experience on the Avenue Verte in 2019, we have become fans of this type of bike ride on France’s cycling network! And I must say that the one that starts from Besançon and follows the meanders of the Doubs along the EuroVelo 6 truly does not lack charm. Plus, with the electric bikes we had, it was really very pleasant!
We set off by bike from the My Cycle / Proxy Cycle rental shop and rode for 6 kilometers to reach Avanne-Aveney, where we had lunch at the Epicerie du Canal (see below in the “great addresses” section) before going on our canoe trip (a very sporty day!).
Tested in 2021
My Cycle / Proxy Cycle, Besançon City Center
106 Grande Rue, 25000 Besançon
Bike rental rates: from €35 per day (2021 rate)
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Go canoeing/kayaking on the Doubs
In recent years, I must say we have become fans of canoeing/kayaking and do it quite regularly during our trips. We didn’t break with tradition and did this 3 km loop (the normal loop is 8 km, but we had limited time, so we did the shorter version) on the Doubs. We started from the Woka Loisirs base, and then when we finished our tour, the team picked us up by vehicle at the arrival point.
A beautiful and very accessible trip (that doesn’t require any particular mastery of the activity) and which allows you to see the territory from a different point of view once again.
Tested in 2021
Woka Loisirs
2 rue du pont 25250 Avanne Aveney
Rental rate for the 8km loop: €15
link to the activity website
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Go for a sporty walk to the Notre-Dame de la Libération monument
Trail running is visibly the official sport of Besançon, and the locals can take advantage of the 7 surrounding hills to train regularly. For our part, we went for a short hike on the Via Francigena with Alexandre, but we were more like Sunday tourists, even if it was a good climb! We walked to the Chapelle du Buis and then to the Monument de la Libération for a magnificent view of the city and its surroundings.
The walk is only 5 kilometers from the city center, but it’s a good way to test your cardio… By the way, I have since learned the technique of Afghan walking uphill in Digne-les-Bains (I’ll tell you about it soon), and I think it would have been very useful to avoid getting out of breath during this climb.
To visit in the surroundings of Besançon
The Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans
Located about 40 minutes by car and 25 minutes by TER train from Besançon, the Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans is a former salt factory, built in 1773 at the request of Louis XV. But the Saltworks is also the masterpiece of the favorite architect of the general farm and great visionary of the Age of Enlightenment, Claude Nicolas Ledoux. If you are in the area, it is well worth the trip for a short visit.
=>To learn more, don’t hesitate to check out my full article on the Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans
My great addresses in Besançon
For my traditional list of great gourmet addresses in Besançon (how could I go without it!?), I recommend taking a look at my other article specifically covering this topic. You will find good food addresses in Besançon and the surrounding area that we had the opportunity to test during two stays in the city with the favorite photographer, in 2021 and 2022. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the Doubs, such as Morteau sausage or Jura wines….
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Where to shop for Franche-Comté made products? At Square Concept
I am just adding a good shopping address in this paragraph (which is therefore completely outside my food theme, which is why I am putting it in this article instead). If you are a fan of design, you must go to the Square Concept boutique, where you can discover the Franche-Comté brand Ibride, which is really very famous in the region.
Square Concept
15 Rue Victor Hugo, 25000 Besançon
Where to stay in Besançon?
As usual, you will find below my selection of great accommodation options in Besançon, which we had the opportunity to test during our two stays with the favorite photographer.
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A charming hotel on the heights of Besançon? Hotel Le Sauvage
This 3-star hotel and its 24 rooms are located in the historic district of Besançon, in the former Clarisses monastery, which itself was established there in 1854. The establishment also offers a stunning view of the city and the Doubs valley. As you will have understood, the setting of this hotel is superb because you are at the foot of the foothills of the Citadel.
The place is also decorated with great taste and antique objects, as its owner is an antique dealer (which explains that…). I must say that I test a lot of hotels and accommodations during my travels, but I really fell in love with this address, which I highly recommend if you are passing through Besançon. Finally, the establishment offers its guests a terrace exposed to the setting sun and a large, shaded park.
The little extra: recently (in fact at the time of our visit in 2021, it was in its pre-opening period so we couldn’t take advantage of it unfortunately), the hotel has just added a very pretty spa!
Tested in 2021
Hôtel le Sauvage
6 Rue du Chapitre 25000 Besançon
Rates (2021): room/suite prices between €99 and €289 / breakfast buffet €16.50
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A hotel in the city center? Hotel de Paris
This three-star hotel, although located in the city center, is extremely quiet because most of the rooms overlook two interior courtyards converted into secure parking. We slept very well there, and the bedding was very comfortable. It has the distinct advantage of being particularly well-located for discovering the city. As for breakfast, it is quite decent.
Tested in 2022
Hotel de Paris
33, rue des Granges 25000 Besançon
Rates: standard room from €99 per night
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Thanks to Besançon Tourism and the aiRPur agency for hosting us twice. And thanks also to my travel girlfriends for their good spirits during the 2021 trip (don’t hesitate to check out their articles on Besançon): Copines de Bons Plans, Poulette Nana, and Juliette Kitsch.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit the Doubs and Besançon, and if you also have your own great addresses and advice for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos are copyrighted, photographer's authorization required before any use
