I know the city of Dijon quite well because a very good friend of mine has been living there for quite some time. I have therefore visited her often over the years, and it is thanks to her that I discovered Dijon and even Burgundy, I must admit. Yet, I had never written an article on my blog sharing my recommendations for visiting Dijon. That oversight has now been fixed!
To start this article, a quick general reminder: Dijon is the historical capital of Burgundy and today it is also the capital of the new Burgundy-Franche-Comté region. The city is also the starting point of the famous Route des Grands Crus.
Dijon is an old ducal city with a rich past that is still very present in the city through a varied historical heritage: timber-framed houses, glazed tiles, private mansions… As usual, you can find in this post some ideas for things to see in Dijon and its immediate surroundings during a weekend, as well as my selection of great addresses.
Practical Information Getting there from Paris by train: 1h30 from Gare de Lyon with TGV Lyria By car: allow a solid 3 hours via the motorway
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Table of Contents
Ideas for visits and things to do in Dijon and the surrounding area
To visit Dijon, it is very easy to get around entirely on foot in the city center because the distances are not very great. I’ll take this opportunity to share a general cultural tip that is always worth knowing: all the museums administered by the city of Dijon are free (Fine Arts Museum, Museum of Burgundian Life, Museum of Sacred Art, Archaeological Museum, Rude Museum, Jardin des Sciences).
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Visit the Philippe le Bon Tower
You can climb to the rooftop terrace of this tower for a breathtaking view of the city from over 46 meters high. To do so, however, you will have to climb the 316 steps of the tower.
This tower was built on top of an older tower by the Dukes of Burgundy in the heart of the Palais des États in the 15th century. It had a symbolic role to show the wealth of the Dukes of Burgundy, a utilitarian role as a reception area, and finally a minor military role. According to some, it may even have had an astrological role. By the way, for your information, it turns out that at that time, there were many vineyards around Dijon.
Great idea: enjoy a wine tasting in cultural venues around the city of Dijon with Monsieur Déguste, just as we did at the top of the Philippe le Bon Tower with the Jeudis Vin in Dijon.
Philippe Le Bon Tower Place des Ducs de Bourgogne, 21000 Dijon Visit by reservation only Rates: €5 adult / €3 child
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Guided tour of the protected area of Dijon
The protected area of the city covers more than 97 hectares, making it one of the largest in France. Since the city has always been the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, Dijon possesses a magnificent built heritage, including more than 120 private mansions built between the 15th and 18th centuries. While visiting Dijon, you will also have the opportunity to see many very beautiful churches in the historical city center.
You cannot visit Dijon without going to see its iconic Owl, which is located on one of the sides of Notre-Dame Church. According to tradition, you must make a wish, then look at the salamander, touch the owl with your left hand, and not look back at the salamander after that. And finally, do not walk under the sign with the black cat that is a little further on. If you manage to follow all these constraints, your wish might just be granted (well, that’s what the legend says…)!
Take the opportunity to discover Notre-Dame Church as well, which also has a very beautiful facade with 51 gargoyles and a lovely clock, a 14th-century Jacquemart that comes from Flanders.
If you pass by, don’t hesitate to enter the courtyard of the Hôtel de Vogüé (8 rue de la Chouette), built in 1614 for Etienne Bouhier, counselor to the Parliament of Burgundy.
During your visit to Dijon, you must also absolutely walk through the city’s iconic square: the Place du Bareuzai (named after the sculpture in the center), which has only existed since the 19th century.
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Visit the Fine Arts Museum of Dijon
This museum reopened its doors last May after several years of renovation. It has been housed since 1799 in the former Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne (which has also housed the City Hall since 1831), making it one of the oldest and richest museums in France. The collections indeed contain nearly 130,000 objects exhibited on a rotating basis.
This fine arts museum presents very beautiful collections (+1,500 works) in this historical monument, spanning from antiquity to contemporary art over 4,200 m². One can notably admire the very beautiful tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, which shelter for eternity Jean the Fearless, Margaret of Bavaria, and Philip the Bold.
When we went, there was a very beautiful temporary exhibition on Yan Pei-Ming; unfortunately, it ended at the end of last October.
A little extra: have a drink or eat a bite (the cuisine is made with fresh, local, and seasonal products) at the Brasserie of the Fine Arts Museum (open from 8 AM to 9 PM every day except Tuesday) if you want to take a break during your visit. This brasserie offers a beautiful terrace during sunny days.
Fine Arts Museum of Dijon Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne Open every day except Tuesday From October 1st to May 31st from 9:30 AM to 6 PM From June 1st to September 30th from 10 AM to 6:30 PM Great tip: free admission
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Visit the Magnin Museum
This national museum houses the collection bequeathed to the State by two collectors, Maurice Magnin and his sister Jeanne. The latter is exhibited in a private mansion that is still in its original state and which does not lack charm. I therefore advise you to visit it if you have a little time.
Magnin Museum 4 rue des Bons Enfants 21000 Dijon Open every day except Monday from 10 AM to 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM to 6 PM Rate: €3.50 / free for those under 26
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Visit the Chartreuse de Champmol and the Well of Moses
I went to Dijon for many years without ever seeing this monument, even though it is a sculpted masterpiece of the medieval period, a major work by sculptor Claus Sluter and his nephew Claus de Werve. Fortunately, my very good friend Marion who lives in Dijon (as I told you at the beginning of the article) took us there during our stay in the city last March.
This monument is unfortunately a bit difficult to access because it is far from the city center, in the heart of a hospital complex. For a little historical explanation, this unique building was built in the 14th century at the request of Philip the Bold, the first of the Dukes of Burgundy, to adorn the family necropolis. In short, during a future visit to Dijon, and if you have a vehicle (or are particularly motivated like us, since we went on foot!), I really recommend you go and see this medieval work of art.
Chartreuse de Champmol and Well of Moses Centre Hospitalier Spécialisé La Chartreuse 1 boulevard du Chanoine Kir 21000 Dijon Open from April to September Monday to Saturday from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM and Sundays and holidays from 10 AM to 6 PM Open from October to March Monday to Saturday from 9:30 AM to 1 PM and 2 PM to 6 PM and Sundays and holidays from 10 AM to 6 PM Rates: €10 adult / €6 reduced / free for – 12s
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Take a workshop to discover the secrets of making Dijon mustard
This Mustard Workshop is organized jointly with the Maison Edmond Fallot, which I had already mentioned in my article about Beaune, as I had visited that producer’s factory. The workshop begins with a brief explanation of the history and manufacturing secrets of mustard. Indeed, the current recipe for mustard has existed since the 17th century and was made at that time with verjuice of grapes (this is somewhat the reason why Burgundy historically produced a lot of mustard, as it was rich in grapes).
Then, we participate in a very beautiful historical monument (the Hôtel Chambellan) in a workshop to make our own small pot of mustard, which we can then take home as a souvenir. The session ends with a tasting of several mustards, all accompanied by some local specialties.
My advice: after the workshop, do not hesitate to go for a look at the great Fallot boutique (16 rue de la Chouette) to bring back a few products.
Mustard Workshop in Dijon Duration: 1h15 Rate: €10 per person From May to October Tuesdays and Sundays at 11 AM and 5 PM / from July to September Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays at 11 AM and 5 PM Reservation via the Tourist Office
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Visit the cellars of the Château de Marsannay
This castle is quite close to Dijon. It is actually possible to visit it to discover the estate, but also the history and geology of the Climats de Bourgogne. To discover more about the Climats of Burgundy, I invite you to look at my specific article on this subject in which I have endeavored to explain all of this to you.
The estate, which has existed since 1990, owns 40 hectares of vines and was recently taken over by Olivier Halley. The latter led the estate’s production towards sustainable farming with a first High Environmental Value certification. Today, production reaches 220,000 bottles per year, of which 30% are exported. The grape harvest is done by hand (it was indeed the harvest season when we went) and the winemaking is done by gravity to preserve the raw material as much as possible. Each climat is vinified and aged in separate barrels.
Marsannay has been a village appellation since the 70s with the union of 3 villages: Couchey, Marsannay la Côte, and Chenove. Furthermore, 13 plots have been the subject of a request to become 1st crus since 1996, but this standardization often takes a lot of time. This appellation reserves 30 hectares dedicated to Marsannay rosé, which is quite rare in Burgundy to be noted.
Château de Marsannay 2 rue des Vignes 21160 Marsannay La Côte Estate visits from May to September from 10 AM to 6:30 PM / from October to April from 10 AM to 12 PM and from 2 PM to 6 PM Closed Sundays from December to March Annual closure from December 20, 2019, to February 2, 2020, inclusive Discovery tasting of 6 wines: €15 / person Climats de Bourgogne tasting (8 wines): €21 / person
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My great addresses in Dijon
Dijon is a city with rich gastronomy. There is, in fact, a major urban project in preparation to create an International City of Gastronomy and Wine, which should open in the coming months. In terms of wine heritage, you should know that the city of Dijon is investing to replant vines within the city itself and has been producing its own wine since 2013.
Some specialties: crème de cassis, mustard, parsley ham, snails, gingerbread…
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Lunch at the Closerie Maison Philippe le Bon
This address was recently renovated and is housed in a 17th-century building in the heart of the Maison Philippe Le Bon, which is also a hotel.
On the menu: the perfect egg in red wine sauce (meurette); the chocolate molten cake, cassis heart.
A little extra: the very lovely hidden terrace for sunny days.
Closerie Maison Philippe le Bon 18 rue Sainte Anne 21000 Dijon Great tip: lunch formula Monday to Friday 2 dishes from €19 Dinner menu from €31
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Michelin-starred dinner at l’Aspérule
This restaurant, run by the Japanese Michelin-starred chef Keigo Kimura, was undoubtedly one of our biggest favorites of these past few months in terms of gastronomy, shared with my favorite photographer! In a small room that only offers 20 seats, we had the privilege of enjoying an incredible, very high-end dinner with extremely balanced dishes.
On the menu: Comté and Soumaintrain gougères, chili; Corn velouté and curry oil; Foie gras salad and crispy puffed rice, figs and chrysanthemum leaves and amaranth (truly incredible!); Bigorre black pork with a zucchini composition and potato puree; Dessert of grapefruit, passion fruit, and praline with yogurt ice cream.
We loved this restaurant with the favorite photographer so much that we even made a small video on our YouTube channel (see below).
Restaurant l'Aspérule 1 Michelin star 43 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 21000 Dijon Great tip: Market Menu (served at lunch only) with appetizer + main dish + dessert / €38 Tasting Menu: 5 services at €80 - 7 services at €120 (served at dinner only)
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Brunch at the Halles de Dijon
These brunches take place every Sunday from early June to mid-September from 11 AM to 3 PM in the beautiful old market halls of the city. This concept has existed for 4 years now, and each Sunday, a different local chef is in charge of preparing the brunch. Inside the halls, large communal tables are set up, and you can sit wherever you want. You have to arrive early enough if you are in a large group and want to find an available table.
Then you go to one of the food corners, where you can choose / serve yourself in a “self-service” style what you want to eat, and the food is all-you-can-eat (within the limits of what is available, but the quantities seemed very large when we went). The atmosphere of this brunch is extremely friendly and joyful, and you can also find several activities for kids and adults (face painting and hair styling stand, local product sales, concerts…).
Brunch Halles de Dijon Every Sunday from June to September from 11 AM to 3 PM Rate: €25 per person
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Where to sleep? The Grand Hôtel de la Cloche
Every time I visited Dijon, I would look with envy at this beautiful hotel, which I have always been told is the most beautiful in the city. This 5-star establishment belongs to the Mgallery by Sofitel group. I was therefore over the moon to be able to sleep there for the first time! It is a quite large hotel since it has 88 rooms and 5 suites. Inside the building, there is also a very pretty courtyard with an extremely pleasant terrace for sunny days.
Our room was located on the 4th floor and overlooked the hotel’s inner courtyard. It was therefore particularly quiet, and I very much appreciated this aspect because, as you know, I am still very sensitive to noise. The decor is simple and refined and elegantly combines the old (a few exposed beams) and the more modern. I liked the plays on transparency, especially with the glass that separates the bedroom from the bathroom.
Regarding breakfast, you can have it in a lovely room with a very bright bay window overlooking the hotel’s inner courtyard. The selection of buffet products is up to the establishment’s star rating, with quality local food.
In the hotel’s basement, there is 200 m² dedicated to the Spa with a swimming pool, a sauna and steam room, water jets, and a massage service. We were lucky to test a 30-minute custom massage (€52), which was very pleasant and relaxing after our busy day.
Grand Hôtel de la Cloche 14 place Darcy
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Thank you to Just Dijon and Alambret Communication for this beautiful getaway to Dijon.
I hope that with all of this, I have made you want to discover Dijon and Burgundy, and if you, too, have your own great addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not copyright-free; photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
