Last October, we set off with the favorite photographer (and a few fellow bloggers) to discover the cultural heritage of the Creuse department, and more specifically to explore the tapestry road in Aubusson and its surroundings. I must admit that while checking where Aubusson is on a map, I realized that the Creuse (located in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region and the former Limousin region) is a department I had never visited before! But there’s a first time for everything, and as always, I was extremely curious to discover a new corner of France that was still unknown to me.
As I suspected, the Creuse is a very rural department, and I was not mistaken on that aspect of the region. However, I was far from imagining the cultural riches it harbors and its close and ancient link to the history of tapestry, an ancestral traditional craftsmanship that I am somewhat familiar with, as you might know that I worked right next to the Mobilier National (which houses the National Manufactory of the Gobelins) for several years.
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Table of Contents
What to do in Aubusson?
The origins of the town of Aubusson date back to the 10th century, during the time of the County of Marche or Comté de la Marche. It was a strategically important town because it was naturally defended by the Creuse River and its tributary, the Beauze, which run through it. It is also located on a historic route connecting Lyon to Sète, which has existed since Roman times and perhaps even before. The town was also the Protestant capital of the County of Marche in the 17th century. And to complete this profile, Aubusson is undoubtedly the birthplace of “Aubusson tapestry” as well as its capital in the region, at least since 1457.
It is, therefore, a town with a rich and fascinating history that can be discovered today. Unfortunately, due to the town’s isolation (between several hills) and a major economic crisis in Aubusson in the 80s, the population has decreased significantly in recent decades, now reaching only 3,400 inhabitants (compared to 5,700 in the 80s). The town is in need of a little spotlight and many visitors eager to discover its heritage and its treasures of wool and silk!
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Practical information for coming to Aubusson
Unfortunately, there is no train station to come directly by train from Paris to Aubusson. You must take a train to the La Souterraine station (a 3-hour train ride from Gare d’Austerlitz), then take a bus or rent a car on-site.
Train ticket price Paris – La Souterraine: between €30 and €50
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Take a guided tour of the town
As is often the case, a guided tour of the town is an excellent way to discover both the history of Aubusson and its riches and attractions. It was notably the opportunity for us to discover the old town and its narrow alleys, the Clock Tower that dominates the town next to the remains of the castle, the Art Deco town hall, the Terrade Bridge rebuilt in the 17th century which is full of charm (great photo spot!), and behind the latter, a very pretty historic district where I recommend you go for a stroll, which was the former district of weavers and dyers, precisely because of its proximity to the river!
Guided tour of Aubusson
Rates: €6 / €3 for children
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Visit the Cité internationale de la tapisserie
The Cité internationale de la tapisserie in Aubusson, which opened its doors in 2016, is dedicated to perpetuating and promoting the craftsmanship of Aubusson tapestry, which has been inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2009. For over 10 years, the Cité has been showcasing this craftsmanship by preserving and presenting a beautiful collection of tapestries, but also by ensuring the longevity of this sector through training and an ambitious policy of creating contemporary tapestries. These actions allow for the development and renewal of this sector, which has historically been established in the region for a long time.
Indeed, although it is not exactly known when (presumably from the 15th century) or how tapestry developed in Aubusson (probably following a Flemish influence), the creation of a royal manufactory on-site in the 17th century, with a charter written by Colbert, made the town’s specificity around this know-how official.
What is interesting in the permanent exhibition of the Cité is that you can discover both ancient works and contemporary creations that show the incredible modernity of tapestry. During the visit, you can also discover, in the professional areas, the task of the tapestry weaver (lissier), which is to “put the artist’s work into wool”. The workshops of the Cité allow, for example, to see weavers at work and to discuss their unique profession with them. You learn, for example, that it takes several months, sometimes several years, for a collective of weavers to complete a tapestry, depending on its size!
The Tolkien project, which dates back to 2017 and was the first in the adventure of the Cité’s event-hangings, is still visible at the Cité and should be finished in 2021. In total, 13 tapestries and one rug will have been woven from original illustrations by J.R.R. Tolkien (the author of The Lord of the Rings, in case you were wondering). The novelty of 2021 is the creation of a hanging (meaning a set of tapestries on the same subject) based on images from the Japanese animated films of Hayao Miyazaki (of whom I am a very, very big fan!). The films chosen for the hangings are: Spirited Away, Howl’s Moving Castle, Princess Mononoke, and Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind.
Thanks to a partnership with Studio Ghibli, 5 monumental tapestries will be woven from images of these famous films, and we can’t wait to see the result, although it will probably not be possible until the end of 2023. On this subject, a presentation area for the project is accessible at the Cité and offers a projection of the images at the scale of future tapestries, explanations of the choice of images, and the stages of creating the hanging. The weaving of the Princess Mononoke tapestry (my favorite film by Miyazaki, by the way), the first of the “Hayao Miyazaki’s imaginary world in Aubusson tapestry” series, has already begun around the middle of March 2021. It is the Guillot workshop that was selected to create this tapestry, with a dimension of 23m². A case to follow for fans of the master of Japanese animation!
Cité internationale de la tapisserie d’Aubusson
Rue des Arts, 23200 Aubusson
Rates: €8 / €5.50 reduced / free for under-18s and for the Heritage Days
The great tip: free guided tours in July and August at 11 am and 3 pm
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My favorite addresses in Aubusson and the surrounding area
As usual, you will find below my selection of favorite addresses in Aubusson and the Creuse (an accommodation and several restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the Creuse, such as potato pâté, chestnuts, mushrooms, or the famous Limousin beef.
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Where to have lunch in Aubusson? Restaurant Le Lion d’Or
This restaurant, located in the heart of the town of Aubusson, offers revisited regional cuisine with a very affordable brasserie menu at lunchtime! A great address for a gourmet and hearty lunch without breaking the bank.
To taste: the pumpkin velouté with porcini mushrooms; the piece of Limousin beef “Blason Prestige” (this is the signature that the Limousin cattle breed is produced under the Label Rouge quality mark), very renowned, served with the famous potato pâté.
11 Place Général Espagne, 23200 Aubusson
Lunch set menu at €19 with main dish + gourmet coffee / menu with appetizer + main dish + dessert at €28
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Where to stay and eat in Aubusson? Hôtel Le France
This 3-star hotel, very well located in the heart of the town and installed in a former 18th-century stagecoach inn, also has a renowned restaurant. We stayed there one night during our trip. The decor could perhaps use a little refreshing, but the atmosphere is warm and the prices very affordable.
Another attraction of the address is its gourmet restaurant, classified as a “Table Savoureuse Logis” in a cozy and rustic atmosphere with exposed stone and beautiful old fireplaces. In the kitchen, chef RJ Hawai offers local cuisine for which he favors local products and “homemade” dishes.
6 rue des déportés 23200 Aubusson
Hotel: room from €57
Restaurant: local Logis menu at €24
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Where to eat in the surroundings of Aubusson? Auberge l’Alzire
This multiple and friendly address is at once a hotel, a restaurant, and a cultural venue (with concerts, workshops, games…). It is really the kind of inn I love, and I highly recommend you stop there if you are in the area. The restaurant part is very good, the products are of high quality and local, and the prices are very affordable. It is also an opportunity to discover some traditional recipes of the Creuse, seated around the inn’s tables with a very regressive “canteen” atmosphere.
To taste: one of the local specialties, THE Creuse fondue (no, I did not make a mistake, this Creuse dish is typical of the region and made from the lean mountain cheese that farmers used to make) with fries (€11).
30 Gr Grand Rue, 23140 Jarnages
Price: weekday lunch set menu with appetizer + main dish + dessert for €13.80
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What to visit in the Creuse, in the surroundings of Aubusson?
If you are staying in Aubusson and you have a vehicle, I recommend two interesting visits to do in the surroundings of the town, which, as you will see, always have a link to tapestry, an art inseparable from the region, if more proof were needed!
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Visit the private Château de Villemonteix
This wonderful 15th-century castle is full of period furniture, paintings, and tapestries (there again!) from the most prestigious manufactories. It houses the beautiful private collection of its owner who bought the place about 35 years ago. The owner presents visitors with a beautiful diversity of weaving centers from the end of the Middle Ages to the 20th century, through about thirty pieces with varied origins: Flanders, Beauvais, the Gobelins, Aubusson…
For the little history concerning the castle, it is said to be built on the former site of a Gallo-Roman villa (Villa montis) whose stones were certainly reused in the construction of a fortress. It also has a complete keep still in elevation and a beautiful central tower in large stone masonry. Indeed, this former military building was softened into a residence in the 18th century.
It is, therefore, a beautiful visit that I advise you to make if you pass by Aubusson, and at the same time, you will contribute to the maintenance of this private castle open to the public, which is always a commendable action in addition to being pleasant! For info, the castle can only be discovered on a guided tour, with the owner of the place who will present his castle and his rich collection to you with passion, worthy of the most beautiful French museums.
23150 Saint-Pardoux-les-Cards
Open every day from Easter to All Saints’ Day from 2 pm to 7 pm and in July and August from 10 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm
Rates: €7 / €6.50 reduced
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Visit the village of Moutier d’Ahun
This charming village located on the banks of the Creuse, and not far from an ancient Roman road, offers a very beautiful landscape that deserves a small detour. Indeed, it is an interesting historic place because there is an old bridge of Romanesque style (and incorrectly called “Roman”) and especially an church with a facade and a granite portal of Gothic style, but whose foundation dates back to the 10th century.
The latter was indeed founded in 997 by a count of the Marche, Boson II, and incidentally “Moutier” actually means “monastery” because the church was part of an ancient Benedictine abbey. The church was partially destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War and rebuilt in 1591 during the wars of religion. Inside, at the choir of the abbey, you can still see today the sumptuous Baroque woodwork created by Simon Bauer and his companions between 1673 and 1681, which you must not miss!
In 1792, the monastery closed its doors permanently and Ahun became a commune. The town, moreover, celebrated in 1997 the thousand years of the monastery. Also to see inside the church, the Millennium Tapestry, based on a design by the famous architect Mario Botta and which celebrates precisely the foundation of the abbey. For the great tip, you will be able to find all the landmark dates of the abbey’s history on the church square, sealed in the ground in the axis of the porch!
My advice: go up to the “Roman” bridge because on the other side of it you have one of the most beautiful views of the village and it is also an excellent place to take photos!
Visits to the church woodwork all year round
Guided tours of the town and church in July and August
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Thanks to the Cité internationale de la tapisserie, Creuse Tourisme, and the Alambret Communication agency for this welcome. And also thanks to my travel buddies for their good humor (don’t hesitate to take a look at their articles on Aubusson): Paris la Douce, Miss Sego, Un Couple en Vadrouille, and Lili in Wonderland.
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to visit Aubusson as well as the Creuse, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
