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Practical Guide to the Quebec Winter Carnival

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

The Quebec Winter Carnival is a true institution every year in the heart of Quebec City. While the tradition dates back to the late 19th century, the first edition of the Quebec Winter Carnival as we know it today took place in 1955. It was also during this time that the character Bonhomme was born, becoming the charismatic face of the event! As you know, Quebec is a destination I adore. Last year, in February 2020, I returned for the 4th time, but it was actually my first visit in winter! And I can tell you now, winter is an incredible season to discover Quebec (though I will have the opportunity to tell you more about that in future articles).

So, I headed to Quebec City with 3 blogger friends to experience the final weekend of the 66th edition of the famous Quebec Winter Carnival. I had previously visited Quebec City during my very first trip to Quebec in the summer of 2010, so almost exactly 10 years had passed between my two stays in the Quebecois city!

Five women with Carnival scarves in front of the large "CARNAVAL" snow sign.
Crowd at the Quebec Winter Carnival near an outdoor stage and the snow-covered Château Frontenac.

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What to do and see during the Quebec Winter Carnival

The Quebec Winter Carnival lasts about 10 days and is held every year between the end of January and mid-February. This year, due to health restrictions, the Quebec Winter Carnival will still take place from February 5 to 14, 2021, but through a free virtual program on its YouTube Channel. The program includes musical shows, mixology workshops, interviews, quizzes, games, and more. Additionally, the Carnival will deploy snow and ice decorations throughout the city.

I will introduce the highlights of a “normal” edition below, hoping it will still let you travel in your thoughts or give you the desire to attend a future edition in milder circumstances!

Quebec Winter Carnival parade with Bonhomme and dancers on a float.

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Discover Bonhomme’s Palace

The character Bonhomme (snow-white and dressed in the red tuque and arrow sash of Quebec folklore heroes) is clearly the star of the festival, and every year an ice palace is built in his honor. If you head to the Carnival, you will obviously have the chance to spot Bonhomme (who is clearly a fun-loving fellow!) at all the festival events. By the way, you should also know that during the Carnival period, the Mayor of Quebec City literally hands him the keys to the city!

For your information, the arrow sash worn by Bonhomme is inspired by indigenous culture. In the 19th century, this type of sash was used to tighten coats at the waist to keep out the cold. For those interested, you can even buy the official Carnival arrow sash on-site every year! I brought mine home, at any rate. At the entrance to the Palace, we could admire the imposing snow sculpture of Bonhomme, and throughout the festival, several ice sculptures were carved in real-time. The Palace also featured various activities, such as the Pixel immersive experience (a giant arcade with interactive screens) and the Loto-Québec stage.

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Try Axe Throwing

This is obviously one of the festival activities you must try! It doesn’t matter if you’re bad at it (like me, clearly), but it’s a festival staple and a really fun activity. Don’t be afraid to look ridiculous, and you might just discover a hidden talent… For your information, the axe throwing stand is located at the Camp à Jos Videotron.

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Taste Maple Taffy

Everyone knows, of course, that Quebec is the land of maple syrup. And winter is the season to indulge in what Quebecers call maple taffy (tire d’érable). This involves heating up maple syrup and pouring it onto snow to create a kind of maple lollipop using a popsicle stick. It’s delicious, but also very sweet, and you have to eat it quickly before it gets all over your fingers! However, it’s another one of the festival’s little pleasures that you really shouldn’t miss. At the Carnival grounds, you can visit the Godin Family Sugar Shack (Cabane à sucre de la famille Godin) at Camp à Jos to discover this Quebec culinary specialty.

Smiling woman eating maple taffy at the Quebec Winter Carnival.

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Eat Poutine

Of course, I’ve already told you about poutine in my other articles about Quebec. You know, this Quebec specialty with fries covered in squeaky cheese curds and thick brown gravy, the pinnacle of Quebecois dietetics! So, obviously, any visit to Quebec must be accompanied by at least one poutine meal; it’s mandatory! You can find it at the Bistro SAQ, opposite Bonhomme’s Palace in the Loto-Québec Zone, or you can go eat at Chalet Unibroue in Camp à Jos (where the atmosphere is always at its peak) for a good soup with a beer!

Classic poutine from the Quebec Winter Carnival in an individual portion.

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Taste the Carnival’s Alcoholic Specialties

The key to the festival is managing to stay warm (if you want to spend hours outside in about -15 degrees). To do this, you will have the choice between the Carnival Punch (the event’s traditional drink), which is a hot alcoholic drink made with spiced rum, Ungava gin, and Bonhomme syrup (yes, it really exists!). The little extra is that it’s served in a beautiful mug that you can keep as a souvenir! Otherwise, you can also taste Coureur des Bois, a maple liqueur, or Caribou, which is similar to mulled wine.

Coureur des Bois mug on ice, Quebec Winter Carnival.

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Take the Opportunity to Discover Quebec City

I won’t develop this part too much as I will soon be writing a complete article on Quebec City. But obviously, during the Carnival, the whole city takes on the colors of Bonhomme, and numerous events are organized everywhere in connection with the festival. Take advantage of your visit to also wander around Quebec; you’ll see that the Carnival mascot has literally invaded the city.

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Get into the Groove at Électro Frette Sapporo

This incredible evening was a memorable moment of my festival experience. Imagine a big outdoor party with a temperature of around -19° where everyone is dancing to the electrifying rhythms of DJs (exclusively female for the 2020 party) from all over the world.

It creates an amazing atmosphere and was also my first real experience with the Quebec cold, because, obviously, to stay outside for several hours in that temperature, you have to be a Quebecer to survive it! Or just follow a few simple rules: don’t stop moving; be well-equipped (generally this applies to any trip to Quebec in winter); drink alcohol or hot drinks or both; and of course, have fun!

Winter crowd taking photos of Bonhomme Carnaval at Électro Frette Sapporo.

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Attend the Quebec Winter Carnival Parade

This event obviously takes place at night and occurs on the festival’s Saturday evenings. The parade travels along Grande Allée for 2.5 km, to the sound of electro and rock music with colorful light shows, choreography, enchanting sets, and magical costumes. Each float, designed by various creative studios, represents an aspect of Quebec culture: local wildlife, Bonhomme’s float with his dancers, and winter storms by Flip Fabrique (whom I actually saw perform in Paris a few weeks after this trip)…

You can watch the parade for free by positioning yourself along the route (but you need to arrive early to find a good spot), or you can watch it from the front row in the VIP stands (this was our case, and the ticket cost about $40). This allows you to watch the parade while sitting comfortably with a small blanket and some hot drinks, with or without alcohol, which is totally indispensable when waiting for hours without moving and it’s about -20 degrees…

Quebec Winter Carnival parade with Bonhomme and dancers on an illuminated float.

Quebec Winter Carnival

Quebec City

February 5 to 14, 2021

Carnival rates (under normal circumstances):

Completely Carnival Passport at $45 (includes 1 effigy; 1 Carnival tuque; 1 maple taffy stick; 1 cup of Carnival Punch or a non-alcoholic hot drink + 1 coffee or hot chocolate)

The Effigy (official Carnival pass), at $20, which gives access to activities in the Loto-Québec Zone, Camp à Jos, and the Christie North slope.


How to get to Quebec for the Carnival? With Air Transat

Every time I’ve traveled to Quebec, it’s been with Air Transat because, in my opinion, it’s one of the airlines with the best value for money for traveling to Quebec from France. This Canadian airline, which has existed since 1987, is also very committed, as it tries to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions through a fuel management program that has become one of the most innovative and rigorous in the industry. It has also initiated an eco-responsible aircraft dismantling program for planes at the end of their life.

On both the outbound and return flights, we were lucky enough to travel in Club Class (the airline’s business class), and I must say it completely changes the flight experience. The cabin with the Club Class seats (12 in total) is located at the very front of the aircraft.

Air Transat aircraft with Alyzia mobile boarding bridge on the tarmac.

The advantages of Club Class

  • a special bistro menu created by Quebec chef Daniel Vézina, which is really quite good
  • little goodies to make the flight more pleasant (throw, inflatable pillow, slippers, wooden headphones, wellness kit with toothbrush and toothpaste, Melvita samples, sleeping mask, compression socks…)
  • impeccable service, obviously (yes, one gets used to these little privileges quickly, unfortunately…)
  • the Club Class seats are at the very front of the aircraft and are obviously more spacious (we don’t even have sore legs after the 7-hour flight)
  • priority check-in, boarding, and baggage delivery
  • you can take two checked bags of 32 kg per person

Option Plus

This option can be chosen in economy class and allows you to enjoy certain benefits. I tested it on the return flight of our trip in 2018 after discovering the Route of the Explorers.

Here is the list of those benefits:

  • online seat selection before the flight
  • 1 extra checked bag and a priority check-in counter to save time at the airport
  • priority boarding
  • in-flight benefits: a comfort kit (with an inflatable pillow, a throw, a sleeping mask) and wooden headphones; an extra snack and a glass of wine with the meal

Air Transat

Paris – Quebec flight all year round
Option Plus price: €126 R/T per person

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Thanks to Air Transat, the Quebec Winter Carnival, Quebec City, and Sophie from the Agency Article Onze for organizing this beautiful trip! And thank you also to my blogger friends for their good spirits (don’t hesitate to take a look at their articles on the Quebec Winter Carnival): Audrey from Refuse To Hibernate, Marelune from Girltrotter, and Clara from Wild Road.

'Plus fort que le Frette' (Stronger than the Cold) sign in front of the Quebec Parliament in winter.

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover or rediscover the Quebec Winter Carnival, and if you also have your own insider tips for this event, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!

Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan, Marelune, Clara and Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use

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