Freedom. That is the powerful feeling I felt as I settled at the front of the Le Boat vessel, and it is what impressed me the most during my few-day getaway in the south of France to test out river tourism. It was also an opportunity for me to discover the Canal du Midi (located in the Aude department, to give you some context), a name I was familiar with but which I actually knew very little about (if anything at all, truth be told). Yet, this canal is one of the most well-known river destinations in France, and for me, it was a first-time discovery.
The Canal du Midi is a 17th-century achievement owed in large part to the vision of Pierre-Paul Riquet, and the canal is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally, its purpose was to transport goods between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, but today, it is primarily used for tourism and leisure. It winds its way through magnificent landscapes of countryside, vineyards, and charming, picturesque little villages.
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Table of Contents
Rent a Le Boat river cruiser
Le Boat is a river tourism company with over 40 years of experience, now present on the waterways of 8 European countries and very soon in Canada as well. First, you should know that the Canal du Midi, or Canal des Deux Mers, is one of the easiest regions to navigate (and one of the best-equipped for it as well), making it the perfect destination for experiencing river tourism.
Even if you have never navigated before, no license is required to pilot the boat, and at the time of rental, you will receive a short training session lasting about an hour or two to learn how to drive the boat, pass through locks, understand how the boat’s equipment works, and other basics. Another important thing to know: if you break down (it can happen, we experienced it!), a Le Boat mechanic comes to lend a hand right where you have stopped; you just need to call the number provided for such cases.
My tips
- This is a perfect experience to have with family (if the children are not too young) or with friends.
- Note that there are specific operating hours for passing through locks, so it is important to check beforehand so you don’t get stuck, especially if you have a schedule to keep or a train to catch.
- We took our little cruise in June, and it was already very hot; however, the canal was not too crowded with tourists, and it was pleasant. I therefore think it is a good time of year for river tourism in this area.
- You can do a one-way trip and leave your boat at a different location than where you rented it, or do a round trip, as you prefer.
- All navigation times can be provided by Le Boat so that you can calculate the timing and stages of your trip.
- What to pack: non-slip sneakers for moving around the boat, SPF 50 sunscreen (white surfaces reflect the sun), a hat (essential!), and insect repellent if you are sensitive to those little creatures, as I am.
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Our boat: The Mystique (6-person capacity)
This boat that I sailed on (well, I hardly touched the tiller, let’s be honest) is an ideal boat for families since it has 3 cabins (one big, super beautiful cabin at the front where I slept, plus 2 small ones at the back and a large living area in the center). This boat, belonging to the brand’s 5-star range, is obviously very well-equipped: shower, oven, WC, hot water, fridge, hobs, 220V sockets, double steering position (inside and outside)… And there is even an optional paid add-on that allows you to have a small modem with Wi-Fi on board (essential for geeks/bloggers).
The boats come equipped with sheets, duvet covers, pillows, and bath towels, so no need to weigh yourself down with that. However, don’t forget your toiletries, shower gel, and shampoo!
The tip: Le Boat regularly runs specials on its website; don’t hesitate to subscribe to the newsletter to stay informed.
Le Boat boat rental
Prices: between €2,380 and €4,285 per week of rental depending on the season
Le Boat Canal du Midi cruise: Round trip departing from Homps (3 nights) in a
« Caprice » boat from €745 to €1,178 (6 berths) in a « Mystique » boat from €628 to €2,223
(8 berths)
Short stays possible (between 3 and 5 nights) / or classic one-week stay_
Our stops along the Canal du Midi
For our part, we departed from the Homps base and returned to our starting point with a short cruise up to Le Somail. But Le Boat offers 5 departure bases in total on the Canal du Midi.
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The village of Argens-Minervois
This small village is dominated by the square towers of a 14th-century castle. It is also a good place for a stop, as there are many public moorings.
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Where to eat in Argens-Minervois? La Guinguette restaurant
La Guinguette is a friendly restaurant by the water with a lovely shaded terrace lit by string lights in the evening. The dishes are “homemade” using fresh, local produce. I took the opportunity to eat a little cassoulet, even if it wasn’t very reasonable given the heat… You can also discover the Mediterranean mouclade, frog legs flambéed in pastis, or a mixed platter of fresh fish.
La Guinguette Restaurant Rue de la Fontaine Fraiche, Argens-Minervois situated 200 meters from the canal open from mid-April to mid-October, daily Prices: weekday lunch menu of the day at €16 / Guinguette menu with starter + main course + dessert at €25 and €35 The Le Boat special: a house aperitif « Carthagène » offered with the Le Boat guide
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The village of Paraza
A very pretty village here as well, with public moorings, making it an easy stop to spend the night and walk around during the day.
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The Château de Paraza
This 17th-century castle overlooks the hill bordering the canal and offers a truly magnificent panoramic view of it. It’s a great stop to discover the domain’s wines, which are of very high quality (Minervois wine).
The owners also run bed and breakfast rooms (4 rooms, private pool, spa, tennis court, etc.), and you can even sleep in the room once occupied by Pierre Paul Riquet, the designer of the Canal du Midi, whose residence this was (though personally, in terms of decor, I prefer their King’s room…). It is also a chance to enjoy a small tasting of the wines from the cellar, which dates back to the 18th century, and a guided tour of the castle, which is definitely worth a look.
The tip: you can also enjoy tapas and wines from 10 am to 8 pm.
Le Château de Paraza 1 rue du Viala, 11200 Paraza open daily from 10 am to 8 pm from May to September Located 800 meters from the Canal The extra touch: wine workshops upon reservation
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Where to eat in Paraza? Le Café du Port
At Le Café du Port, a small restaurant that doesn’t look like much, but serves beautiful Mediterranean cuisine. A very pretty little terrace with a view of the canal and therefore your boat, if you moor there.
Le Café du Port
11 rue du Port, Paraza
Prices: starter + main course + dessert from €16 to €24_
The village of Ventenac-en-Minervois
This pretty little village is famous for its wine cooperative cellar with beautiful red brick vaults, which is located right on the water’s edge. It is built like an amphitheater on a hill, offering a very beautiful view of the agricultural plain.
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Château de Ventenac-en-Minervois
The incredible appearance of the facade of this 19th-century castle (built on the site of the former fortress), which is also called a “wine folly,” reminds us of the golden age of viticulture in the Languedoc. I advise you to take a look around to discover the wines (AOP Minervois cuvées and organic wines) but also to visit its red brick cellar with neo-Gothic architecture, the winemaking cellar, the winegrowers’ attic, the small museum that holds a collection of 19th-century tools used for winemaking, the turret, and finally, the wine barge “La Marie-Thérèse” (visit price: €3). The venue also hosts numerous events and activities throughout the year.
Château de Ventenac-en-Minervois 17 cour du Château, Ventenac-en-Minervois open daily from 10 am to 12:30 pm and from 2:30 pm to 7 pm The tip: free tasting Wine prices: between €5 and €13.50 per bottle
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Where to eat in Ventenac-en-Minervois? La Grillade du Château
For a shaded lunch surrounded by chickens, I recommend La Grillade du Château; plus, it will be the perfect opportunity to taste the wines from the Château de Ventenac-en-Minervois that I mentioned just above.
Prices: weekday lunch menu at €12.90 with starter + main course + dessert + 1/4 wine / menus with starter + main course + dessert between €18 and €28
La Grillade du Château 19 route Neuve open from Tuesday to Sunday from 12 pm to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm
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The village of Le Somail
This former 17th to 19th-century trade port is a stop not to be missed because it is truly a charming little village and a very pleasant small marina. Le Somail was a stopover where travelers on the stagecoaches would pause for the “overnight stay” (meal and lodging). It is also one of the few architectural ensembles so well-preserved from that era. It has been classified by UNESCO since 1996.
Just take a short stroll through the village to discover the chapel built in the 17th century, the Jefferson plaque (who reportedly passed through there in 1787), the ice house (where ice brought from the Montagne Noire was stored to preserve provisions), the humpback bridge (remarkable for its “basket-handle” vault, characteristic of the era the canal was built), the inn (now a bed and breakfast Chez Pierrette), which already served that same function in the 17th century…
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La Maison Bonnal in Somail
This is the town’s Tourist Office, which, housed in an old winegrower’s residence, offers a very modern and totally interactive space to discover the region and understand the importance and role of the Canal since its construction, as well as those of the 2 other canals: Jonction and Robine.
The site allows for a fun and interactive understanding of the history of the 3 canals of the Narbonnaise. It is also an opportunity to meet Mrs. Craddock, a hologram of an English tourist from the 17th century. You will also regularly find exhibitions of contemporary artists (in the photo below, photos by Natacha Lesueur).
Maison Bonnal 168, Allée de la Glacière Le Somail 11120 Saint Nazaire d'Aude free entry
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Librairie le Trouve Tout du Livre in Somail
An incredible place, located on the edge of the Canal du Midi, set up in an old cellar, offering a huge number of books, mainly second-hand. It is a landmark for reading lovers, collectors, artists, and writers. You can find everything there, from antique books to second-hand books, and notably very rare editions that some people travel from far away to unearth…
Librairie le Trouve Tout du Livre 28 allée de la Glacière, Le Somail open daily in July and August from 10 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 6:30 pm (closed the rest of the year on Tuesdays) Located 200 meters from the Canal
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The grocery boat Tamata in Somail
A little grocery store on the water that offers good regional products and even has a drive-through service for boats! An opportunity to stock up…
Bateau Tamata allée de la Glacière open daily from 8 am to 1 pm and from 4 pm to 7:30 pm from April to October
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Where to eat in Somail? Le Comptoir Nature
Le Comptoir Nature is a very good restaurant, again situated on the water’s edge with a beautiful shaded terrace (an essential detail in the region). It has been established for 20 years in a picturesque 17th-century building, somewhere between a guinguette and a village bistro. Local (and organic) products are in the spotlight on the plates with tasty, natural cuisine.
My advice: you must absolutely taste the artisan ice creams made with sheep’s milk.
The extra touch: jazz evenings from mid-June to mid-September every Wednesday evening + concerts on Fridays in July and August.
Le Comptoir Nature 1 chemin de Halage, Le Somail open daily from 12 pm to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm The Le Boat special: a kir offered with the Le Boat guide Price: starter + main course + dessert menu between €17.50 and €32.50
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To discover in the Aude region
- The wines of the region (Minervois and Corbières appellations) are a wonderful discovery not to be missed if you love them as much as I do. Don’t hesitate to stop along the canal to visit the winemakers’ cellars as well.
- Local gastronomic specialties: the cassoulet (obviously, it would be a shame to come to the region without eating one, even if it is summer), black olive tapenade, products made from olives, and the Lucques (the star olive of the region).
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Take a tour in a 2CV with Vin 4 Heures Tour
Vin 4 Heures Tour offers emotional tourism in wine country to explore the Cathar hinterland behind the wheel of the legendary convertible Citroën 2CV. A beautiful moment of sharing and discovery! You also get to enjoy the vintage comfort of these cars, so iconic of an era and a way of viewing life. What’s great is that you can absolutely ask for a tailor-made tour, and depending on your location, they will come to pick you up in a “Deuche” right where you are moored.
Our visit: explanations and tastings with Tiphaine, a qualified sommelier + visit to the only olive cooperative cellar in the Aude, L’Oulibo.
Vin 4 Heures Tour
Tours for 2.5 hours (€37.50/pers with at least 3 participants), a half-day or a full day
Rates: 2CV rental for a half-day (5h) €80_
Visit the L’Oulibo olive cooperative
This cooperative cellar, located 6km north of Le Somail and in existence since 1942, is the perfect place to learn more about the olive, the olive tree, and the production of olive oil. It is also the perfect place to do a bit of gourmet shopping (yes, I know that you, too, love bringing back lots of specialties from your travels…). The tour includes an educational section with a guided walk in the heart of an olive grove of 400 trees, explanations, a film, and finally the tasting of several oils and olives (including the Lucques, the green diamond of the Languedoc).
L’Oulibo 4 hameau de Cabezac, 11120 Bize-Minervois Open 7/7 all year round Visit times: 11 am – 3 pm – 4 pm – 5 pm – 6 pm in July and August / 11 am – 3 pm – 4 pm – 5 pm in June and September Visit rates: €6 for adults / €4 for children (6 – 15 years old)
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Thanks to Links Communication and Le Boat for the invitation to this beautiful river getaway.
I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover river tourism on the Canal du Midi, and if you also have your own favorite addresses for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free; permission from the photographer is mandatory before any use.
