Home Nouvelle-AquitaineRoad Trip: Cultural Vienne

Road Trip: Cultural Vienne

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

I love exploring a department, first because you discover a territory in its coherence, and then because I think that every place, every country, every region offers a multitude of things to see, to do, and to experience.

So I returned to the Vienne department (86) to further explore this region that I had already somewhat scouted out in 2015 if you remember correctly… If your memory is failing you (it happens to the best of us), you can find my 3 articles from back then by following this link.

Ruins of the castle of Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne, with a woman taking a photo.

To explain the situation, my favorite photographer and I set off by car and stayed for a short week in the Vienne. I therefore decided to present our road trip to you in a few thematic articles (all of which you can find links to at the end of this article).

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The Royal Abbey of La Réau

Fully open to the public since only April 2017, this fortress abbey is a historic monument that is privately owned, but whose holders have chosen to make it visible and visitable to all—an extremely commendable intention.

The first buildings of the royal abbey date from the 12th century, but most of the remains of the site are from the 15th century.

Royal Abbey of La Réau, castle and church ruins, Vienne.

Stone building of the Royal Abbey of La Réau with an ancient well in the foreground.Woman in front of a stone dovecote near the Royal Abbey of La Réau.

Facade and tower of the Royal Abbey of La Réau in Vienne.

Inside the abbey buildings, we discover a reconstructed setting that can sometimes make you smile with its witch-like mannequins (a bit creepy, it must be admitted; you can judge for yourself in the video at the end of the article) and its funny little notes.

Witch mannequin near a mortar and cooking instructions at the Abbey of La Réau.

Vaulted carved pillar in a cloister of the Royal Abbey of La Réau, Vienne.Person facing a colorful stained-glass window in the Royal Abbey of La Réau in Vienne.

Ancient refectory with wooden tables, bowls, and a crucifix at the Royal Abbey of La Réau.

A good deed: by visiting this abbey, you will participate in its preservation, as it is with this money, in particular, that the owners renovate the site.

Abbey of La Réau
86350 Saint Martin l'Ars

Prices: €10 for adults / €6 for children (aged 6 to 16)
Open every day from June to August from 10 AM to 7 PM / Closed on Mondays for the rest of the year

Duration of the visit: 1 hour

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Visit to the village of Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Angles-sur-l’Anglin is one of the most beautiful villages in France, and it is really a must-see if you are in the area. Furthermore, just for visiting the village and the sites, you can easily spend the whole day there as there are quite a few things to see on site.

So I’m taking this opportunity to slip in a good address for lunch for your midday break.

View of Angles-sur-l'Anglin with its bridge and ancient church in Vienne.

Happy traveler jumping in a cobblestone street in Angles-sur-l’Anglin, Vienne.Cobblestone alley in Angles-sur-l'Anglin with turrets and lush vegetation.

Ascending cobblestone alley between stone houses in Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne.View of the Roc aux Sorciers with a woman looking at the chapel from a rocky opening.

The Roc aux Sorciers

The Roc-aux-Sorciers houses the largest prehistoric sculpted frieze ever discovered! Created 15,000 years ago on the wall of a rock shelter, it is revealed today in an interpretation center thanks to highly successful innovative and playful restitutions: 3D projection on the wall, interpreted tactile frieze, scenographed route…

You obviously won’t see the real frieze, which is now protected, but the visit to the site is extremely well done and fascinating. A visit that I therefore absolutely recommend you do!

Entrance to the prehistoric site of the Roc-aux-Sorciers, Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne.

Roc aux Sorciers Interpretation Center 
2, route des Certeaux

Prices: €6.50 for adults / €4 for children / €10 for adults combined ticket 
with the Fortress / €6 for children combined ticket with the Fortress

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The Fortress of Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Another very interesting visit to do on site, this Fortress perched 40m above the waters was built by the bishops of Poitiers in the 11th century and freshly restored in 2016. It offers a unique view of the Anglin valley and the village, with a self-guided trail laid out.

Ruins of the castle of Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne, with towers and vegetation.

Old wooden door, lantern, and stone wall in Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne.Ruins of the Fortress of Angles-sur-l’Anglin in Vienne.

Cobblestone path to the tower of the Fortress of Angles-sur-l’Anglin.Woman exploring a porous stone wall, possibly at the Roc aux Sorciers in Vienne.

Ruins of the castle of Angles-sur-l'Anglin in the Vienne.

Fortress of Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Prices: €5.50 for adults / €3.50 for children / €10 for adults combined ticket with the Roc aux Sorciers / €6 for children combined ticket with the Roc aux 
Sorciers

July and August open every day 10 AM - 7 PM

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Where to eat? Le Goût des Mets

During our short time in the town, we had lunch at Le Goût des Mets, a friendly little restaurant.

Woman reading a menu at the restaurant Le Goût des Mets in Angles-sur-l'Anglin, Vienne.

In no particular order, we tasted: the foie gras harmony (€14), a porcini mushroom omelet (€14), a butcher’s cut Hampe (€14), and a gatinoix (local cake) grandmother-style (€9.50).

Foie gras, toast, chutney, and verrine served on a slate, Vienne cuisine.

Grilled meat dish, potatoes, vegetables, and sauce, served in Angles-sur-l'Anglin.

Mushroom omelet with salad and grilled bacon, Anglin restaurant.

Dessert with a slice of cake, chocolate ice cream, caramel, and a crunchy tuile.

Restaurant Le Goût des Mets
Le terrier du château
86260 Angles-sur-l'Anglin

Price: gourmet menu at €19 with 1 appetizer + 1 main course + cheese or dessert / gourmet menu at €32

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The Abbey of Saint-Savin

The Abbey of Saint-Savin possesses the largest set of Romanesque wall paintings known in France; they are, in fact, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is an absolutely exceptional collection of striking beauty.

Romanesque fresco painted on the vault of the Abbey of Saint-Savin in Vienne.

Capital carved with acanthus leaves at the Abbey of Saint-Savin, Vienne.Interior of the Abbey of Saint-Savin, Romanesque columns, and choir.

Romanesque fresco of the Abbey of Saint-Savin, medieval fresco painted Vienne.

As someone who is a big fan of the Middle Ages, and particularly the Romanesque period, I was charmed by this unique place!

In addition to visiting the abbey, you can also go to the former monks’ cells to see the multimedia and scenographic exhibition that explains the historical and artistic context of the period of the paintings.

Refectory of the Abbey of Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe, Vienne.Romanesque bell tower of the Abbey of Saint-Savin, Vienne.

Exterior of the Abbey of Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe by the river.

Abbey of Saint-Savin
Place de la Libération, 86310 Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe

Prices: €7 and free for children under 12

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The Gallo-Roman site of Sanxay

Sanxay is one of the best-preserved and most important monumental complexes of the Gallo-Roman world. Long thought to be a place of healing and pilgrimage, it is now more likely accepted that Sanxay was primarily a Gallo-Roman city. This city was occupied from the 1st to the 4th century AD and it spanned more than 25 hectares.

Gallo-Roman ruins of Sanxay seen through tall grass and spring flowers.

Peaceful river of the Vienne with water lilies and tree reflections.Couple walking in a green field near a stone wall in the Vienne.

Gallo-Roman wall remains at Sanxay, in the Vienne.

Gallo-Roman ruins of Sanxay with two visitors observing the tiers.Remains of walls and earthen floor of the Gallo-Roman baths of Sanxay, Vienne.

Gallo-Roman ruins of Sanxay, Vienne, with protective roofing.

Ruins of the Gallo-Roman site of Sanxay, stone foundations in a green field.

This archaeological site, managed by the CMN (Center for National Monuments), is truly fascinating to discover for anyone interested in the ancient period or simply in history. It is also unfortunately quite unknown and rarely visited, so if you like being alone and quiet during your vacations, it’s the perfect place!

Furthermore, visiting the remains is also the occasion for a very pleasant little bucolic walk.

Weeping willow and field of buttercups near Sanxay, Vienne.Entrance to a Gallo-Roman site at Sanxay, Vienne, obscured by a wooden barrier and vegetation.

Gallo-Roman ruins of Sanxay in flowers in the Vienne.

Cherry on the cake, the guided tours (absolutely fascinating and almost essential to fully understand the site) come at no extra cost to the entrance price.

Gallo-Roman Site of Sanxay

Open from May 15 to September 15 every day from 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM and from 2 PM to 6:30 PM
and from September 16 to May 14 every day except Saturday from 10 AM to 12:30 PM and from 2 PM to 5:30 PM

Guided tours in French at 10:30 AM + 3:00 PM (off-season) or 3:30 PM (peak season)

Prices: €6 for adults / €5 reduced rate

The tip: free for those under 26, job seekers, and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month

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Our video of the stay on the cultural side of Vienne

Here is our second video (by Nicolas Diolez, my favorite photographer) for the blog, which tries to translate the atmosphere of these cultural visits and also give you a bit more explanation about the sites (be lenient regarding my relative talents as a guide; it’s difficult to speak in front of a lens…).

Do not hesitate to tell us what you think in the comments, and there will be videos in all or almost all the articles of our stay in the Vienne!

I’m taking this opportunity to thank the Vienne Tourism Agency for their welcome and for helping us organize this super trip.

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Medieval stone bridge on the river at Saint-Savin, Vienne.

I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover or rediscover the Vienne department, and if you also have your recommendations and good addresses for this department, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!

Ruins of the Fortress of Angles-sur-l’Anglin in Vienne.Find all my travel articles below:
⇒ All my articles on Nouvelle-Aquitaine
⇒ All my articles on the Vienne department

MY ARTICLES ON THE VIENNE
⇒ City guide to Poitiers
⇒ The well-being and gourmet Vienne
⇒ The unusual Vienne
⇒ The nature and animal-friendly Vienne
⇒ The cultural Vienne
⇒ The Futuroscope


Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's permission is mandatory before any use

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