Arles is a city with a very rich history dating back over 2000 years… It was a Roman colony, a major center of Christianity, a wealthy agricultural hub during the Renaissance, and finally, one of the capitals of Provence. Today, it serves as the sub-prefecture of the Bouches-du-Rhône. I had the chance to discover it for the first time this year with my friend Sabria from All around the girl. I must say that I fell under the spell of this city and was fascinated by the many historical monuments that the Camargue city preserves within its walls. The city is nonetheless modern in terms of arts, and besides being a hub for photography, it also features beautiful street art throughout its streets (see the photos below as proof).
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Table of Contents
Things to see and do in Arles and its surroundings
As usual, I offer you a small selection of outing ideas, tours, in short, things to do to discover the city and its surroundings. Obviously, I highly recommend walking around the city because it is on a human scale. Not to mention that the city has charming little alleyways where you absolutely must go and get lost, you won’t regret it!
The tip:
The Tourist Office offers two very advantageous monument passes:
- The Liberté pass: which allows you to visit up to 6 sites (4 monuments, the Réattu museum, and one museum of your choice), valid for 1 month / €11 or €12 per person depending on the period (free for under 18s)
- The Avantage pass: which is valid for all monuments and museums for 6 months / €15 or €16 per person depending on the period (free for under 18s)
Arles Tourist Office Boulevard des Lices 13200 Arles
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Visit the Vincent Van Gogh Foundation
This place with very contemporary architecture is housed in the city’s former Bank of France. Incidentally, visiting this foundation is also worth a look to admire the beautiful renovation work done by the architecture firm Fluor. The Foundation, open since 2014, presents one or more Van Gogh works throughout the year alongside works by contemporary artists, which shows his influence even today on current art. Indeed, the city was marked by Vincent Van Gogh‘s stay in Arles between February 1888 and May 1889, where he created more than 300 works (paintings and drawings)! Impressive, right?!
The Foundation presents temporary exhibitions that rotate every 6 months. The current exhibition (until October 28, 2018) is titled “Soleil Chaud, Soleil Tardif, les modernes indomptés” (Hot Sun, Late Sun, the untamed moderns). It presents the point of view of 10 artists and the pivotal era represented by the 70s. The other current exhibition on the British artist Paul Nash also presents about thirty of his works until October 28, 2018.
My tip: by going to the very top of the foundation, on the rooftop terrace, you will have an unobstructed view of the city’s rooftops.
Vincent Van Gogh Foundation 35 ter rue du Docteur Fanton 13200 Arles open every day in spring and summer from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and from Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Prices: full €9 / reduced €7 / free for under 12s and social minimum benefit recipients
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See the Amphitheater (the arenas)
This amphitheater, built around 90 AD, could hold approximately 21,000 spectators with 34 rows of seating, making it a very large monument of ancient Gaul. This spectacular place was dedicated to games and gladiator or wild animal fights. In the Middle Ages, the monument was transformed into a fortified neighborhood, and it wouldn’t be until the 19th century that the last inhabitants left and it regained (partially) its initial appearance. If you want to discover a bit more of the city’s ancient past, it’s obviously a monument you must visit (along with the few others I mention below)!
The tip: once again, at the top of the structure, you will have an unobstructed view of the city’s rooftops as well as the surrounding area.
The Arles Arenas 1 Rond-Point des Arènes, 13200 Arles Prices: €9 full / €7 reduced (ticket combined with the Theater)
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Visit the Ancient Theater
Built at the end of the 1st century BC, it could accommodate 10,000 spectators. Today it is largely dismantled because it was looted for centuries, serving as a stone quarry for the city’s inhabitants. It is a beautiful place to visit, and it also still regularly hosts modern performances on the ancient stage.
The Ancient Theater of Arles
8 Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles
Prices: €9 full / €7 reduced (ticket combined with the Theater)_
Visit the Baths of Constantine
These thermal baths date from the 4th century AD (time of Emperor Constantine) and were public baths in Roman times, but they also served as a gym and a place for socializing. Again, if you want a complete tour of the city’s Gallo-Roman vestiges, it is a must, especially since they are very well preserved (for this type of building, I mean).
The Baths of Constantine
Rue du Grand Prieuré, 13200 Arles
Prices: €4 full / €3.20 reduced_
Visit the Saint-Trophime Cloister
This cloister (which adjoins the cathedral I mention below) features two 12th-century Romanesque galleries, two 14th-century Gothic galleries, and sculpted decoration of exceptional quality. Since I love visiting cloisters (that’s my archaeologist heart speaking), I can only highly recommend visiting this one if you are in Arles, because it is magnificent! Do not hesitate to also go and visit (it’s free) the Saint-Trophime church nearby by admiring its magnificent Provençal Romanesque style portal, inspired by ancient architecture and evoking the Last Judgment.
The Saint-Trophime Cloister
20 Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles
Prices: €5.50 full / €4.50 reduced_
Visit the Réattu Museum
It is the city’s fine arts museum, presenting modern and contemporary art, photographic works (by Lucien Clergue), and a Picasso donation. It is housed in the former Grand Priory of the Order of Malta, adjoining the Sainte-Luce Commandery. The museum’s collection was formed in the 19th century from the donation of works by the neo-classical Arlesian painter Jacques Réattu, and the building, which became a museum in 1868, still preserves all his work and his personal collection.
The Réattu Museum 10 rue du Grand Prieuré 13200 Arles Temporary exhibition on Alfred Latour, photographs (until September 30, 2018) Prices: €8 adult / €6 reduced (€9 and €7 in July and August) The tip: free on the 1st Sunday of the month
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Visit the Departmental Museum of Ancient Arles
I advise you to discover this museum, known as the “blue museum,” if you are a fan of archaeology or want to discover the ancient past of Arles. This archaeology museum exhibits the only known bust of Julius Caesar sculpted during his lifetime, as well as the Roman barge Arles Rhône 3 (31 m long) dating from the 50s/60s AD, which was installed in a new wing opened especially for it in 2013. This wreck retrieved from the river is surrounded by objects that evoke trade and navigation.
This museum opened its doors in 1995 in a modern building designed by architect Henri Ciriani, near the ruins of the Roman circus, by the Rhône to showcase local and regional archaeological discoveries. It is not located in the city center, but it is very easy to walk there.
The Departmental Museum of Ancient Arles Presqu'île du Cirque Romain 13200 Arles open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except Tuesdays Prices: €8 full price / €5 reduced The tip: free for everyone on the 1st Sunday of the month
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Go for a horse ride in the Camargue
The Camargue is the Rhône delta; it is a land open to the four winds that offers multiple landscapes and is home to many birds, including pink flamingos (and also terrible mosquitoes, ouch, ouch, I still remember them). These horse rides offer the possibility of going to places that are not easily accessible otherwise. The ride also allows you to discover the fauna and flora and the traditional way of getting around for the people of the Camargue in the marshes: riding the grey Camargue horse.
The Domaine de la Palissade is located in the protected natural area at Salin de Giraud, near the mouth of the Grand-Rhône and spans 702 hectares to the southeast of the Camargue island. It is a property of the Conservatoire du Littoral, managed by the Camargue park, and it is the last space outside the dikes that continues to evolve naturally.
To survive the ride and the mosquitoes, I offer some essential recommendations! First, part of the ride is in the swamps (so wear clothes you don’t mind ruining because you’ll come back covered in mud), and don’t take the time to do your hair nicely beforehand, it would be a waste of time… Next, if you are afraid of mosquito bites, I advise you to equip yourself! Long sleeves, jeans, socks, repellent products, and since, even with all these precautions, you will get bitten, still bring products afterward to relieve yourself…
My advice: when you go there, pass by the viewpoint on the Salin de Giraud which produces 340,000 tons of salt; it’s just magnificent, and what colors!
Domaine de la Palissade BP 5 CD 36 13129 Salin de Giraud Prices: €19 for the ride (from April to October) / from 8 years old duration of the ride: 2h
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My favorite addresses in Arles
As usual, I offer you a good hotel address where to stay that I tested during my trip and some good restaurant addresses as well. The region is quite rich in gastronomy, and here are some local products to taste during your stay in the surroundings: olive oil, bull meat, and Camargue rice (these are the 3 AOCs of Arles).
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L’Hôtel du Cloître
Located in the heart of the historic site of Arles (a few steps from the Ancient Theater, the Arenas, and the Place de la République), in a very quiet alley, this hotel is a great address for a stay in Arles. It was recently renovated, and the interior decor is signed by the architect-designer India Mahdavi.
Price of my single room: from €80 per night
Hôtel du Cloître 18 rue du Cloître 13200 Arles
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L’Ouvre-Boîte or l’Épicerie du Cloître
This “guinguette” style restaurant is located at the foot of the Hôtel du Cloître (which I told you about just above) and offers tapas to enjoy during a friendly aperitif on the terrace. It’s a great address, and if you are staying at the hotel, don’t miss an evening on its lovely little square!
Price: tapas plates between €4 and €16 / glass of wine between €4 and €5
L'Ouvre-Boîte 22 rue du Cloître 13200 Arles open all week between 12:00 and 14:30 and between 18:30 and 21:30
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Les Filles du 16 (closed)
Les Filles du 16 is a story about women, but also a family story. Manon and Cynthia offer bistro cuisine in a very friendly atmosphere. As a bonus, the address has a very small, very pleasant shaded terrace during the summer season.
Les Filles du 16 16 rue du Dr Fanton 13200 Arles Price: starter + main dish menu at €25 / main dish + dessert menu at €23 / starter + main dish + dessert menu at €29 The tip: daily menu at €16 with starter + main dish + coffee
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Le Lion d’Arles
This friendly restaurant is ideally located opposite the Arles Arenas and has a terrace with a view for sunny days.
Little bonus: the owner is very friendly, which doesn’t spoil anything…
Le Lion d'Arles
28 Rond-Point des Arènes 13200 Arles
Price: tapas or starters between €6 and €16 / main dishes between €13 and €23 / desserts €7_
Restaurant Des Piques ou Rien
This small restaurant with a funny pun name (yes, I had to pronounce it several times to understand) is located on the Place Voltaire and also has some outdoor tables for sunny days.
Restaurant Des Piques ou Rien 53 rue Condorcet 13200 Arles Price: full menu at €32 or à la carte The tip: lunch menu at €16 with starter + main dish or main dish + dessert / full lunch menu for €20
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Restaurant Volver
This restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Maison Volver, a small hotel with 12 rooms (which I unfortunately did not test). The establishment is ideal for a tapas aperitif in the evening and offers delicious plates to share.
Restaurant Volver rue de la Cavalerie Prices: plates between €13 and €15 / desserts between €6 and €8
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Thanks to Francine from the Arles Tourist Office for this welcome and to Fluxus Communication.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Arles and the Camargue, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan and Sabria Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
