I am an archaeologist by training (yes, really!), so old stones, let’s just say, are my “thing”! So, I was thrilled to head into the Loire valley, 15 km from Saumur (in the Maine-et-Loire department, in the Pays de la Loire region) to discover the Abbey of Fontevraud, a former Benedictine-inspired abbey that I had never visited before.
Located at the junction of Anjou, Touraine, and Poitou, this abbey, which is one of the largest monastic cities in Europe, was the seat of the Order of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 by a Breton named Robert d’Arbrissel. Everything was truly perfect during this weekend immersed in the world of the Fontevrist order. The only drawback to this perfection is that it comes at a price… but honestly, it is really worth it!
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Table of Contents
Visiting the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud
A bit of history: A double monastery, housing both women and men within the same buildings, the Abbey of Fontevraud attracted the protection of the Counts of Anjou and then the Plantagenet dynasty, who made it their necropolis. During your visit, you can see the recumbent effigies of Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine.
After a decline beginning in the 13th century, the abbey was led for almost two centuries by abbesses from the Bourbon royal family. The French Revolution brought a definitive end to the religious establishment, which was then converted into a prison until 1963. Various renovations of the buildings began in the 19th century after the abbey was listed as a historic monument in 1840, and these efforts continue to this day.
In 2000, the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley cultural site. The monastic complex, which is state-owned and currently acts as a modern center dedicated to history, ideas, and creation, today consists of two of the four original monasteries, and Fontevraud is currently managed by the Pays de la Loire Regional Council. It should also be noted that the programming of cultural events at the abbey is very rich throughout the year.
49590 Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
Rates: €11 / €7.50 reduced / free for -8 years old
The good tip: The Fontevraud Pass (€20 for 1 year or €36 for 2 years). This gives free and unlimited access to the abbey, preferential rates on cultural programs, and exclusive benefits (there are also duo and family passes available).
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Staying at Fontevraud l’Hôtel
It was within the Saint-Lazare priory, whose church dates back to the 12th century and which has been transformed into a hotel residence, that we stayed during our trip. Fontevraud l’Hôtel and the Restaurant were born in May 2014 from the atypical project of Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku, who wanted to instill their contemporary vision while respecting history and sustainable development in order to preserve the soul of the place and offer visitors an experience closely linked to the site.
Everything in this four-star hotel and its 54 rooms was custom-made, from the furniture to the lighting to the tableware, to meet the various constraints of installing in a listed site. I was surprised by the authentic and raw materials (particularly the wood) that naturally blend into this environment and by the refined atmospheres that resonate here in unison with the high ceilings and ancient walls. A journey between tradition and modernity that extends and reinvents the history of this place.
Throughout the hotel and the abbey, all objects are connected, which shows a real digital strategy. A free application for iPad (made by Ouest France) exists to guide you in your discovery of Fontevraud. At the reception of this 2.0 hotel, an iPad is also provided to you for the duration of your stay, to allow you to connect to the internet, to use as a TV remote, to discover the site, and to communicate with the front desk. A very good and useful initiative.
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The rooms
The 54 hotel rooms are decorated on the same model in the refined style I mentioned above. As for the bedding, which is certified 100% natural, it is high-end, as it is a Nantes-based company, Biosense, that brings its responsible values for super comfortable nights (I tested and approved).
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Breakfast
The breakfast, also served in the restaurant I will tell you about below, is always prepared by chef Thibaut Ruggeri (Bocuse d’Or in 2013), and it was also a moment of enchantment for the taste buds.
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The advantage of staying at the Fontevraud hotel is that you get free access to the entire abbey grounds, since you are staying inside.
The magical moment: visiting the abbey at night, when the hotel staff tells me, “the abbey is yours!“. And truly, yes, it was mine. An intense moment that I won’t soon forget.
38 Rue Saint Jean de L’Habit, Le Prieure Saint-Lazare 49590 Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
Rates: from €102
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The culinary experience of the Fontevraud Restaurant
It was a moment of gustatory pleasure that was perfect in every way. The chef, Thibaut Ruggeri (Bocuse d’Or in 2013), masterfully combines flavors, colors, and taste pairings. His decidedly creative cuisine is also imbued with perfectionism, which is reflected in his work with local products, his fight against food waste, and his desire to plant an orchard and use honey from the abbey’s hives in his dishes. The abbey, which has had a water source for centuries, in line with its ecological logic, now filters this water to produce still water (served free of charge at the restaurant table) as well as a local sparkling water.
The restaurant experience, which takes place in several stages, gives an impression of fluidity, so we never have the feeling of waiting, which is very pleasant. Upon arrival at the restaurant, you are seated at the iBar (set up in the former priory chapel) to be served a house cocktail based on sparkling wines from the Saumur region and to allow you to quietly discover the digital media library through touch tablets that will take you on a virtual tour of the abbey. This also allows you to take the time to order your meal comfortably.
The second stage will take you to the restaurant dining room located around the cloister (which houses a garden dotted with aromatic and medicinal plants used in the kitchen), first passing through the kitchens themselves to see the restaurant brigade and the chef in action. You will then be accompanied to your table, and the round of dishes can begin… However, the meal will inevitably start with the ritual of soup and dry bread (revisited, of course) recalling the austerity of the meals of the nuns and the prisoners.
The good tip: the first menu at €55 with appetizer, main course, cheese, and dessert is really a very good value for money compared to what is offered on the plate.
Children are not forgotten, as a menu at €20 is dedicated to them for a discovery of flavors adapted to their age, and they can even go to the kitchen to help create their dessert!
38 Rue Saint Jean de L’Habit, Le Prieure Saint-Lazare, 49590 Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
Price: Lune menu at €70
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Things to visit in the surroundings of Fontevraud
As usual, I offer you below some good addresses in the surroundings of Fontevraud to do a little shopping and bring back some souvenirs from your stay.
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The Martin de Candre artisanal soap factory
The Martin de Candre artisanal soap factory has existed since 1974 and actually makes a honey soap for the abbey. The Martin de Candre boutique is located between Montsoreau and Fontevraud, a few kilometers from the abbey. A nice gift idea to bring back from your stay.
Martin de Candre artisanal soap factory
Lieu-Dit Mestré, 49590 Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
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The Les Douceurs du Terroir artisanal biscuit factory
This artisanal biscuit factory, whose laboratory is located in Arçay, has a boutique in the village of Fontevraud. On the menu: macarons, fine cookies, artisanal jams cooked in a cauldron, tea, and pure Arabica coffee. In short, once again a lovely stop to bring back some local gifts.
Les Douceurs du Terroir artisanal biscuit factory
Boutique facing the abbey – 4 rue Robert d’Arbrissel 49590 Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
Open all year from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm (also on Mondays from June to September)
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
