Provins is, of course, best known for the Medieval Festival of Provins, one of the largest medieval fairs in France, which takes place every year over a weekend in June. But this beautiful town in Seine-et-Marne—which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site—holds many other attractions (less than an hour from Paris!), and there’s no need to wait for June to enjoy a short getaway there…
In fact, this medieval town (one of the best-preserved in France) experienced its heyday in the 12th and 13th centuries, when its great feudal lords organized the Fairs of Provins, which became the most important in Europe.
Pro tip: I don’t necessarily recommend taking the tourist shuttle bus when leaving the Provins train station, unless you are carrying a lot of luggage… In fact, on foot, the lower town is barely a 10-minute walk from the station.
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The 2015 Harvest Festival
The Harvest Festival in Provins is a highlight of the town’s social calendar, as it combines the discovery of the UNESCO-listed medieval site with rural life in Brie at the beginning of the 20th century. This event, unique in France, does not take place in the fields but inside the ramparts, within the town walls, at the end of each summer. This 45th edition is unique in France, as it is the only one that takes place on the squares and streets of the town, just like in the old days. This year, the theme will be “regions, heritage, travel.” Incidentally, it is the Commune Libre of the Upper Town that has been organizing this popular, traditional festival since 1971.
On the program: a grand parade of floats decorated with wheat, tractors and vintage vehicles, traditional threshing, folk dancing and world music, artisan discoveries and regional products, merry-go-rounds, and other street entertainment…
On Sunday, all day long, floats decorated with wheat, traditional threshing, vintage tractors, classic cars and scooters, old bicycles, folk groups, barrel organs, marching bands, and both traditional and contemporary music enliven the cobbled streets of the Upper Town, while farmyard animals recreate the atmosphere of farms from the past.
Within the town walls, you can find exhibition spaces with various themes: “14-18, the Provins region in turmoil,” “The sun meets the moon,” “Rural scenes in Brie,” 1900s objects, toys and costumes, model railway layouts, etc.
Throughout the day, a series of colorful parades wind through the streets, and at 3 PM, the grand parade of wheat-decorated floats sets off, accompanied by a procession of musicians, folk groups, vintage bicycles, and people in costume, all in a good-natured atmosphere.
For the younger ones: face painting workshop, wooden horse merry-go-rounds, vintage tractor rides, pony rides, outdoor games, juggling initiation, etc.
Harvest Festival
Sunday, August 30, 2015
Rates: adults €10 / free for children under 12 / €17 for festival entry + 3 monuments / reduced rates when booking online_
The Caesar Hotel in Provins
It is in this charming design hotel that we stayed during the weekend to discover the town. It is located in the lower town, but is very convenient and central for getting a complete overview of the town, both lower and upper. The place is beautiful, modern, the rooms are cozy, and the bedding is extremely comfortable. In short, it is the perfect spot for a little weekend in Provins. Our room even had a small private terrace, which was as cute as could be! The morning breakfast buffet is very extensive and varied, and we took advantage of it to fuel up for the busy day that awaited us.
Caesar Hotel 13, rue Sainte-Croix 77160 Provins Price: between €94 and €239 for a night with breakfast depending on the room and the season
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Monuments to visit in Provins
Below, I propose a small selection of monuments to visit during your time in the town of Provins.
The Grange aux Dîmes (Tithe Barn)
The Grange aux Dîmes is a former covered market, a monument that perfectly illustrates the town’s important position during the time of the Champagne Fairs in the 13th century. The Provins Fair took place in the spring and autumn. Today, you can visit this magnificent house, typical of Provins, with its lower room vaulted on ogival arches, and discover the various trades of yesteryear through an audio-guided tour.
La Grange aux Dîmes
2 rue Saint Jean 77160 Provins
visit duration: approx. 35 min
Monument open from 10 AM - 6 PM
Price: adult €4.30 / child €2.80 (5 to 12 years old)_
The Caesar Tower
The Caesar Tower is one of the iconic monuments of Provins. It was built in the 12th century by the Counts of Champagne and is a very beautiful testament to the history of medieval military architecture. You can visit the interior of this keep, right up under the roof, and understand its evolution over the centuries as well as its multiple uses. Don’t miss going to admire the magnificent wooden framework that houses the tower’s bells, and as a bonus, you’ll have a magnificent view of the town along the parapet walk.
Caesar Tower
Rue de la Pie 77160 Provins
Visit duration: approx. 35 min
Price: adult €4.30 / child €2.80 (5 to 12 years old)_
The Collegiate Church of Saint Quiriace
This 12th-13th and 17th-century collegiate church can be visited for free. The building remains unfinished due to financial difficulties during the reign of Philip the Fair.
The Collegiate Church of Saint Quiriace visit duration: count about 20 min Monument open from 10 AM - 6 PM
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The Underground Tunnels of Provins
The underground tunnels were originally a quarry for “fuller’s earth,” a material used in the drapery industry of Provins. Later, the cavities served as a refuge, warehouse, cellar, and even a meeting place for secret societies, as evidenced by the numerous ancient symbols and writings. This fabulous network is enhanced by fiber-optic lighting. These can only be visited in groups (25 people max) and via guided tour, but it is truly a must-see if you come to discover Provins.
The Underground Tunnels
Duration: approx. 45 min
Price: adult €4.50 / child €3 (5 to 12 years old)Pro tip: the Visitor Passes to see more and spend less
These packages offer benefits for visiting the following 4 monuments: The Caesar Tower, The Grange aux Dîmes, the museum, and the Underground Tunnels
Provins Pass (4-monument package valid for 1 year) / adult €11.40 / child €8.20 / Family €33.90 (2 adults and 2 children)_
The historical shows of Provins
During the summer season, you can also take advantage of your trip to Provins to attend one or more of its historical shows.
The Legend of the Knights
In this Legend of Provins, equestrian art blends with the magic of ramparts steeped in history. This show, aimed more at children, transports them centuries back in time, to the age of knights and beautiful princesses. The Legend of the Knights is, from my point of view, more of a show aimed at children, I would say, but I enjoyed the few horse stunts that one can admire there.
On the program: spectacular stunts and jousts, choreographed fights, paced by the galloping of horses.
The Legend of the Knights Equestrian show lasting 45 min Towards the Porte Saint Jean, be careful to arrive 15 min before the start of the show, to allow time to pick up tickets and reach the performance venue. Price: adult €12 / children (5 to 12 years old) €7.50 (reduced rates for large families, students, and with the Provins pass sold at the Tourist Office) Pro tip: the show is free on your birthday!
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The Eagles of the Ramparts
This falconry show, which has existed since 1993, takes place in an open-air theater. You can see birds of prey evolving in harmony with horses, wolves, and a dromedary. Eagles, buzzards, falcons, owls, and vultures allow you to discover the world of Falconry as it existed in the Middle Ages.
Both shows are very enjoyable, but I have a clear preference for the one with raptors. Very impressive, it provides a good idea and knowledge of the very delicate art of falconry, and it is something that one rarely has the opportunity to see, even if I also had the chance to see another show of this kind recently in Chauvigny.
The Eagles of the Ramparts
duration 50 min + visit to the aviary at the end of the show
Théâtre des remparts – Upper Town 77160 Provins (towards the Porte de Jouy)
Price: adult €12 / children (5 to 12 years old) €7.50 (reduced rates for large families, students, and with the Provins pass sold at the Tourist Office)_
The Rose Garden of Provins
If you are a lover of roses, or just want to stroll through 3 hectares classified as a Remarkable Garden, this place is for you! Because more than a classic French-style rose garden, this one is landscaped, crisscrossed by streams, shaded by magnificent trees, and home to more than 400 varieties of fragrant roses, both ancient and modern.
The little extra: the owner of the place is a true enthusiast, and you are very likely to run into him around an alleyway, taking care of his beautiful roses. It will obviously be an opportunity for a fascinating conversation about roses, about Provins, or just about the art of living…
The Rose Garden of Provins 11, rue des Prés 77160 Provins Rates: €6.50 in spring and summer / €4.50 in autumn and free in winter and for children up to 12 years old Open every day from 10 AM to 7:30 PM (between April and November)
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A bit of shopping in Provins
You will find many very nice shops in the streets of the Upper Town to buy regional products, but below I give you a small selection of those that I was able to discover!
La ronde des abeilles (The Bee Round)
A shop specializing in products based on honey and the rose of Provins: candies, gingerbread, syrups, cosmetic products…
La ronde des abeilles 3, rue des beaux arts 77160 Provins open every day except Tuesday in low season
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A la croisée des chemins (At the Crossroads)
A shop with a wide choice of teas, sugars, cosmetic products made with roses…
A la croisée des chemins 8, rue couverte 77160 Provins open every day from 1:30 PM to 6:30 PM on weekdays and from 11 AM to 7 PM on weekends
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Le Roy Lire (The King Reads)
Le Roy Lire is a medieval bookstore housed in a magnificent Gothic lower room. I advise you to go in, if only to see the place!
Le Roy Lire 9, rue de Jouy 77160 Provins
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Elixior
You will find medieval drinks and regional products based on roses, of course.
Elixior 7, rue Couverte 77160 Provins open every day from 10:30 AM to 6 PM and closed on Mondays and Tuesdays in low season
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My good addresses for eating in Provins
Below you will find the few restaurant addresses that I tested during this weekend getaway in Provins.
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Les Bistrophiles
This restaurant and grocery store, located at the foot of the Upper Town, offers traditional cuisine prepared with ingredients from the Ile-de-France region. On the plates, it’s fresh and well-presented, and the menu has the advantage of changing often.
To taste:
- The amber beer of Brie, brewed on the farm.
- The house’s very generous gourmet salads.
- A plate with raw milk Brie de Montereau and a small fruit jelly.
Les Bistrophiles 44, rue du val 77160 Provins tel: 01 64 01 46 94 The little extra: you can make some purchases of local products in the establishment's fine grocery store Price: Appetizer/main course or main course/dessert menu around €14
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The Troubadours’ Banquet
Sincerely, I was a bit afraid of ending up in something kitsch or totally caricatural, and it was nothing of the sort. If you are spending a weekend in Provins, I can only encourage you to go and spend at least one evening at The Troubadours’ Banquet, in a magnificent 12th-century vaulted room.
You will experience a moment out of time in the pure tradition of great medieval banquets, which will teach you many things about the culinary customs of yesteryear. Feast for the duration of a medieval banquet to the rhythms of acrobats, with a program including: pottage, meat pies, roasts accompanied by forgotten vegetables, Brie trenchers, honey apple granita, and poached pear, all accompanied by Hypocras (honeyed and spiced wine).
The Troubadours' Banquet 14, rue Saint-Thibault 77160 Provins Tel.: 06 70 50 08 58 Price: adult €35 / child (5-12 years old) €20 / costume rental on site if you feel like it €5 / 1 free for every 30 people for groups
So now you know what you have to do: plan a short trip to Provins for the Harvest Festival which will be held at the end of the month, or come at any other time. And if you also have good addresses in Provins, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, the photographer's permission is mandatory before any use
