Last September, I had the chance to go on several getaways in France, and one of them brought me to the Hérault (in the Occitanie region) to visit its sub-prefecture, Béziers, and the surrounding area. I knew absolutely nothing about this city and its surroundings (since then, I have visited Narbonne and Cap d’Agde) and, as always, I arrived with stars in my eyes and a soul hungry for discovery, and I was not disappointed!
The origin of Béziers, a city built on two hills overlooking the Orb valley, dates back to 575 BC. We can certainly say that its history is very ancient. Furthermore, its emblem, the camel (which is the city’s totemic animal), is linked to a legend that begins in Egypt around the Holy Family. To cut a long story short, a priest named Aphrodise reportedly came to bring the good word of Jesus to Gaul and supposedly brought a camel back with him. The animal was then cared for by the town’s inhabitants, even after the Saint’s death. And, of course, it performed a few miracles too… This also earned the residents their nickname: the camelous (camels)!
Several famous figures hail from Béziers, such as Jean-Antonin Injalbert, a famous 19th-century sculptor from Béziers, or Pierre-Paul Riquet, whom I will talk about below, as well as Jean Moulin, who grew up in Béziers. I was also very surprised to learn that the Languedoc vineyard is the oldest in France, as the first traces of vines in the region date back to the presence of the Etruscans. This is a very important aspect of this territory, which possesses a rich oenological past and where the profession of winemaker has been very present for a long time.
Indeed, back in Greek times, the city’s economy was thriving thanks to the wine trade. After the phylloxera crisis in the 19th century, Béziers became the wine capital because it was one of the few cities in France to be partially spared by the disease, and as of 1863, it would supply wine to all of France. This is also the reason why most vines in Languedoc are not grafted onto American rootstocks, as is the case for the majority of the French vineyard, even today. This brought fortune to Béziers at the time, and the city became the richest in Languedoc at that moment. This is still reflected in its architecture, which was very flourishing during this period, with the construction of numerous private mansions in the city and “wine chateaux” in the surrounding countryside.
A quick practical tip: getting from Paris to Béziers is quite simple by train, as there are direct TGVs that leave from Gare de Lyon, passing through Montpellier and going all the way to Béziers. Expect a journey of about 4 hours 20 minutes / 4 hours 30 minutes by TGV.
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Ideas of things to do/visit in Béziers
As you will have understood, the city of Béziers is rich in history, so there is a lot to discover in this very ancient city! Plus, I find there is truly a specific charm and atmosphere that emanates from the city. I must say that, personally, I had a crush on Béziers, and it really made me want to come back to discover more! I hope the same will be true for you.
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Take THE photo of Béziers
My tip: to take a magnificent photo of the city, you have to go to the Emile Aïn Public Garden for a beautiful view of Béziers. The perfect spot to take THE most beautiful photo of the city! To do this, you will need to cross the Orb by taking the Pont Neuf or the Pont Vieux, whichever you prefer.
You will also have a beautiful view of the Pont Vieux, a classified historic monument that has been spanning the Orb since 1134! Until the middle of the 19th century, it was, in fact, the only possible passage over the river to enter Béziers.
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Get lost in the old town of Béziers
There is obviously a lot to see in the old part of Béziers, and I suggest some routes or places to see, but you can also let your feet guide you and lose yourself a little in the charming alleys of the city… I especially recommend you go see the Roman amphitheater, which dates back to the 1st century AD. It was able to accommodate more than 13,000 spectators and is located today in the Saint-Jacques district. A major restoration carried out in 1992 allows us today to see its remains (vomitoria, tiers, ambulatories, columns…) and to imagine what the monument looked like in ancient times.
Roman amphitheater
17 impasse des anciennes Arènes
Closed from November 1st to March 31st and open the rest of the year every day from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Free access
You can also take a stroll following the route of the trompe-l’œil murals (14 in total, spread throughout the city center). Each one tells an episode or evokes a key character from the history of Béziers. You can even find the precise circuit on the Tourist Office’s website, in the “thematic circuits” section.
I was particularly struck by the Winemakers’ Revolt mural in 1907, which recalls a bloody episode in other cities in the region, but which unfolded differently in Béziers because the 17th Infantry Regiment refused to fire on the inhabitants. What is strange is that a popular song comes from this episode, called “Gloire au 17e”, and I absolutely do not know why, but I knew this song well, without being able to remember why or how…
Another point to visit is the Place Saint-Cyr, which is at the heart of Biterrois history because it is the place where Saint-Aphrodise (whom I told you about in the introduction), evangelist and first bishop of Béziers, was beheaded in the 4th century… A small niche (see photo below) at the corner of a street houses a statue of the Saint and recalls this episode. And then, Rue Canterelles also passes through this square, which is famous for being a very ancient ‘Heraclean way’ and the one that saw Hannibal, his army, and his elephants pass by on their march to Rome in 218 BC. In short, only big names!
I also recommend that you stop at the Place du Forum to have a drink and/or stroll around. This square is quite recent, as it was renovated in 2013, but it sits on the original location of the ancient forum, the center of the Roman city, at the intersection of the “cardo” and the “decumanus”. Finally, on the weekend, you can go to the market which is located at the foot of the Romanesque church of Sainte-Madeleine, which dates back to the 12th century (the church, not the market…).
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Visit the 9 Locks of Fonseranes site
This site, classified as a ‘Grand Site d’Occitanie’, allows you to understand the famous civil engineering work of Pierre-Paul Riquet: the Canal du Midi. The latter, whose construction began in 1667 under the reign of Louis XIV, was built to connect (and facilitate the transport of goods) the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, avoiding the Strait of Gibraltar and its pirates.
On site, you can discover the 9 Locks of Fonseranes (only 7 locks are still in service today), built in a row, which allow you to cross a height difference of 21.50 meters over a length of 300 meters! Pierre-Paul Riquet named this structure ‘Neptune’s staircase’, a beautiful tribute to his hometown, Béziers. The structure, certainly the most spectacular on the Canal du Midi, was also classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.
The walk along the locks and the towpath is very pleasant, and you will also have a very beautiful view of the cathedral and the ramparts. There is also a botanical trail with explanatory panels about the fauna and flora of the Canal, between the parking lot and the 9 Locks site. Finally, in the Coche d’Eau tourism house, you will be able to find a small boutique with some local products but also a room that screens a short immersive film about the history of the Canal du Midi, narrated by the Canal’s archivist. I really recommend you go see it because it explains the context and the difficulties of the realization of this incredible structure very well!
Site of the 9 Locks of Fonseranes
Maison Coche d’Eau
Immersive cinema (14-minute session every 20 minutes) from 10:30 a.m. to 5:40 p.m.
Price: €3 adult / €2 from 6 to 12 years old, and free for all until the end of the year 2020
Special offers until the end of the year 2020: the audioguided tour is free (instead of €2 normally) / The treasure hunt ‘Alice and the magic fountain’ is free (instead of €3) / the parking lot that provides access to the site is also free
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Visit the Béziers cathedral
The Saint-Nazaire and Saint-Celse Cathedral is truly the city’s architectural emblem because it is visible from very far away, standing at the prow of the ramparts of the ancient city. It was built on the ruins of the Romanesque cathedral after the latter was burned down during the ‘so-called Albigensian’ crusade. It was indeed the scene of the great massacre of Béziers by the crusaders, sent by Pope Innocent III and with the support of the armies of the King of France, against the Cathars at the very beginning of the 13th century. It is therefore a place of memory associated with a very dark episode in the city’s history. The current cathedral was built in the 14th century, in the Languedoc Gothic style with a single nave. At its heart, we also find a 14th-century cloister that was never completed, due to a lack of funding.
For our part, we had the immense privilege (I weigh my words) of taking an unusual tour of the cathedral’s roofs with Jean Lauze, President of the Association of Friends of Saint-Aphrodise and a great connoisseur of this beautiful building, of which he kindly shared some secrets with us… In any case, what I can tell you is that the view from the top is truly incredible!
Right next to the cathedral, you will also find the very charming Place de la Révolution, which actually refers to the coup d’état of the future Napoleon III in 1852, and not the Revolution of 1789.
Visits to the Béziers Cathedral
Place des Albigeois Béziers
Cathedral open every day
Ideas of things to do/visit in the surroundings of Béziers
If you have a vehicle and can get around a bit, here are some interesting and sometimes unusual visit ideas to do in the surroundings of Béziers, less than 30 minutes by car each time! On the program, I suggest a stop in Sérignan, Valras-Plage, and Bassan.
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Visit the Regional Contemporary Art Museum of Occitanie
This contemporary art museum opened its doors in 1991 in Sérignan, in a former wine cellar, with works by Daniel Buren in particular. In total, 3,200 m2 are dedicated to the museum’s permanent and temporary exhibitions. The museum’s collection consists of paintings, drawings, photographs, sculptures, installations, and videos, which offer a look at creation from the 60s to the present day. The museum also offers creative workshops for children and supports French and international artists through residencies.
Regional Contemporary Art Museum of Occitanie / Pyrénées-Méditerranée
146 avenue de la plage 34410 Sérignan
Prices: €5 / €3 reduced / free entry for all on the 1st Sunday of each month and every day for under 18s
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The Palais de la Maquette in Valras-Plage
If you are a fan of Lego and models, this place is made for you! Over 200 m², you will find giant and animated models in Lego and K’Nex, including several play areas that are even referenced in the ‘Guinness Book of Records’. It is the largest private collection of this type on display! And then, a little bonus at the end of the visit, you can sit down and have fun with the mountains of Lego left at the disposal of visitors (young and old alike).
Le Palais de la Maquette
11, rue du Lieutenant Panis 34350 Valras-Plage
Prices: €6 / €5 children from 3 to 12 years old
See on the website for opening hours
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Les Meubles Modestes, Bassan
This small museum of modest furniture (midway between furniture and wooden toys) has existed for 30 years, and it is run with passion by Alain Fornells. It is located in the heart of the village of Bassan, in an old house full of charm that houses the workshop of the master of the place, who builds his furniture mainly with recycled materials. I don’t want to tell you more about this very special visit offered by Alain, as the surprise is part of the game, but I can tell you that he will transport you into a dreamlike and poetic world full of twists and turns, so let yourself be carried away by his imagination!…
Les Meubles Modestes
3, petite rue (village square) 34290 Bassan
1h30 guided tour
Prices: €5 / €3 for under 12s
Opening dates and times are announced on the website and on the location’s Facebook page
My good addresses in Béziers and the surrounding area
I must say that I was completely blown away by the quality of the addresses I had the opportunity to test during this stay, which was clearly at a very gastronomic level! And I will conclude this ‘good addresses’ introduction by wishing you “Santat“, which means “Health!” in Occitan.
Local wines to taste:
As I explained above, since wine culture is particularly important in this region, I obviously recommend that you test the local wine production, the general designation of which is “Vins du Languedoc” and within which we find: AOC Languedoc; IGP Coteaux d’Ensérune; Coteaux de Béziers; Côtes de Thongue…
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Where to have lunch in Béziers? A la Maison des Halles
This restaurant is located in the Béziers Market Hall, of the Baltard type, which dates back to the 19th century. These were completely renovated in 1987, and it is an unmissable meeting place for the residents of Béziers, who come to do their shopping (there are many stalls of food products from local producers) and to eat as well! In the heart of the place, A la maison offers family and traditional cuisine prepared with fresh products, which come in part from the market hall.
Our lunch: tuna sushi, scallop sashimi (€10.90); cuttlefish à la plancha, this dish was absolutely divine, super tender contrary to what I might have thought (€16.90); red berry panna cotta for dessert (€4.90).
A la Maison des Halles
Halles de Béziers, Place Pierre-Sémard
Market Hall open from Tuesday to Sunday from 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. (3 p.m. on Sunday)
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Where to have dinner in Béziers? Restaurant Le Patio
Located a stone’s throw from the Madeleine parking lot, this address has a charming interior patio and an ideal setting for a romantic and intimate dinner. The menu offers Mediterranean-inspired dishes with land and sea flavors that evolve with the seasons. As for the wine list, it features a wide selection of Languedoc wines!
To taste: scallops with zucchini riste (€20); marinated Pélardon from Mas Rolland, served with tapenade toast (€7); for dessert, the all-chocolate cylinder (€7.50).
21 rue Française or 10 bis rue d’Endevel
The tip: lunch menu at €18
Menu price starting from €23.50 with main + cheese or dessert and starter + main + dessert at €30
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Where to stay in Béziers? Hôtel XIX
This 3-star establishment is ideally located on the Place Jean Jaurès (which is the new ‘Place to Be’ district of Béziers), and it has just opened its doors. The decor of the address is chic, cozy, and powdery. The hotel is housed in a former town hotel and offers 12 rooms with restful and soft pastel colors. It also gives pride of place to art, and you can find works by the artist Sébastien Bayet throughout the establishment. Breakfast can be taken inside the hotel but also on the terrace in front of the establishment during the sunny days (which is always super pleasant).
19, Boulevard Jean Jaurès 34500 Béziers
Prices: overnight stay starting from €95 in a classic room
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Where to eat next to the Hotel in Béziers? Restaurant Pica Pica
Le Pica Pica is the new address of chef Fabien Lefebvre (Best Craftsman of France 2005 and Michelin-starred chef when he was at the head of the Octopus, also in Béziers), and it is ideally located right next to the Hôtel XIX, which I just told you about. As you might expect, the chef offers fine, creative cuisine of great quality. The setting is neat, the decor is design, and you eat very well there for a more than reasonable price.
Our lunch: cream of sweet corn with cubes of shrimp flambéed with Cognac; braised pork tenderloin, braised Paimpol beans, and herb breadcrumbs; ‘like a hint of crème brûlée’ for dessert.
20 boulevard Jean Jaurès
Lunch menu starter + main or main + dessert at €18 / starter + main + dessert at €23
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Where to have dinner in the surroundings of Béziers? Restaurant Le Boucan
This bistronomic restaurant opened its doors 2 years ago in the center of the village of Villeneuve-les-Béziers. You will find a couple of enthusiasts, Benjamin in the kitchen and Dana at the reception and service. On the plates, Benjamin‘s generous cuisine is made with fresh and seasonal products, all with a great price-quality ratio. Naturally, with all these good points, I obviously validate this address!
Our dinner: vegetable velouté; braised duck leg and risotto; chocolate brownie.
Wine tasted: Alma Cersius Range Code Sensation, Cabernet Sauvignon (IGP Pays d’Oc).
Restaurant Le Boucan
Place de la mairie, 8 rue Rouvier 34420 Villeneuve-les-Béziersopen from Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner
Daily menu starter + main or main + dessert at €16.90 / starter + main + dessert at €19
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Where to eat by the sea? Restaurant Le Sepia in Valras-Plage
This restaurant, installed in the heart of the seaside resort of Valras-Plage and not far from the seafront, has been open for 3 years. It is run with a master hand by Yann Nicolas and his wife, who offer us a very beautiful high-flying gastronomic address with perfectly mastered cuisine. The products are super fresh and come from the daily market (especially for the fish, which are bought locally) and from the chef’s gathering of herbs and flowers in the surrounding garrigue. In short, it is certainly my culinary crush of this stay and an address to discover absolutely if you pass through the region!!!
Our lunch: the chef’s fried small fish, which is the best I’ve ever eaten (I still have an emotional gustatory memory of it); as an aperitif, I recommend you taste the Muscat Domaine de Barroubio St Jean de Minervois (€4.50 a glass), which is sublime; the fruity dessert with a coral-shaped meringue; for the white wine, ‘Les Zazous’, la Croix Gratiot.
The little extra: go for a walk with your feet in the sand by the sea after the meal.
28 Rue Frédéric Mistral, 34350 Valras-Plage
Menu at €25 from Tuesday to Saturday for lunch / chef’s menu starting from €36 in the evening
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Thanks to Béziers In Méditerranée, Hérault Tourisme and the aiRPur agency for this welcome. And also thanks to my travel friends for their good humor (do not hesitate to take a look at their articles on Béziers): Copines de Bons Plans, Touristissimo, and Manon.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover the Hérault and Béziers, and if you also have your good addresses and advice for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
