Here is a city guide for visiting Nancy, the result of two trips I took to this beautiful Lorraine city with my favorite photographer. Nancy is an unmissable stop in the Grand Est region. This city is located on the banks of the Meurthe River, in the department of Meurthe-et-Moselle in the Grand Est region.
A brief historical reminder: even though Nancy is an important metropolis today, it is barely ten centuries old. Its creation dates back to the 11th century when Gérard d’Alsace, Duke of Lorraine, decided to build it to protect his territory. The city was beautified and developed in the 16th century, and finally, in the 18th century, Stanislas united the Old Town and the New Town through a royal architectural ensemble, of which Place Stanislas (which was actually voted the Favorite Monument of the French people) is the jewel. After the war of 1870, the loss of Alsace-Moselle turned Nancy, which remained French, into a frontier city. The city reinvented itself at the beginning of the 20th century with economic growth and the creation of a major artistic and technical hub, the Ecole de Nancy (which I will tell you about in more detail later in the article).
As for practical information, it is extremely easy to get to Nancy from Paris by train (only 1.5 hours direct). Just be sure to check the schedules in advance, as there are slightly fewer trains serving the city during certain times of the year.
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What to see and do in Nancy?
If you come to Nancy for a 2-day weekend or an extended weekend, you will have plenty of cultural activities to choose from if that is what you enjoy. I have noted some ideas for outings and sightseeing to do during your stay below.
Nancy is said to be the capital of Art Nouveau, a movement heavily influenced by nature and its components. If you are a fan of this artistic movement, you will be delighted while visiting this Lorraine city. In 1901, Lorraine artists and manufacturers decided to found a provincial association of art industries called the “Ecole de Nancy.” Consequently, Nancy holds a genuine architectural heritage of about fifty buildings spread across different neighborhoods of the city. To avoid confusing Art Nouveau and Art Deco (which follow each other in time), here is a brief summary of the two styles. Art Deco, which emerged just before the First World War, is an evolution of Art Nouveau. It still draws inspiration from naturalist decor but with a return to more stylized, geometric forms.
Be aware that there is an Art Nouveau Route in Nancy, with a map showing you several interesting stops to make in the city for a self-guided walk. For more information, do not hesitate to visit the city’s tourist office, which is set in a beautiful space at the heart of the 18th-century setting of the Nancy City Hall. You can also find a selection of gourmet products and local crafts there.
Another cultural note: the UN declared 2022 the International Year of Glass. The city of Nancy, a land of glassmaking creation, fully embraced this theme by dedicating this year to glass as well, with the “2022 en verre” program featuring exhibitions, events, and tours offered throughout the year.
Also to see: the Porte de la Craffe, which is part of the old fortifications of the old town; Place Stanislas, which is part of an 18th-century complex classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983 and was voted the Favorite Monument of the French people.
Pro tip: It is quite interesting to spend a weekend in Nancy during the European Artistic Crafts Days (which take place at the beginning of April) because the city’s museums, as well as those of the Greater Nancy Metropolis, are free for the occasion, and in addition, you can take advantage of several activities and events, which are also free.
Destination Nancy – Tourist Office
Place Stanislas 54000 Nancy
Open Monday 1 PM – 6:30 PM and Tuesday to Sunday 9:30 AM – 6:30 PM
The good deal: public transport on the STAN metropolitan network (bus and tram) is free every weekend in Nancy for everyone.
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Visit the Museum of Fine Arts of Nancy
This museum overlooks Place Stanislas and opens into a room dedicated to the builder Jean Prouvé. You can discover a permanent exhibition offering a panorama of art in Europe from the 14th century to the present day. Also, do not hesitate to discover the magnificent Daum collection located in the museum’s basement, which presents 300 masterpieces from the Nancy crystal works.
I also recommend you literally enter the artwork by Yayoi Kusama, a Japanese artist, titled “Infinity Mirrored Room – Fireflies on the Water” dating from 2000, which is very fun for taking pictures as you can see below. Furthermore, I will take this opportunity to specify (a little professional habit, please forgive me) that this work is a deposit from the CNAP (National Center for Plastic Arts).
During our 2nd visit in 2022, we also visited the temporary exhibition “Glass, 30 years of innovation at CERFAV” which is being held at the museum until September 18, 2022. This exhibition presents the creations of glassmakers trained at CERFAV (European Centre for Research and Training in Glass Arts) since its establishment in Vannes-le-Châtel in 1991.
Museum of Fine Arts of Nancy
3 Place Stanislas 54000 Nancy
Open every day except Tuesday from 10 AM to 6 PM
Rates: €7 / free access on the 1st Sunday of every month and for those under 26 and students
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Visit the Lorraine Museum
The museum is housed in the former Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine in the heart of the old town, where the end of the renovation and complete reopening are scheduled for 2027. During the museum’s renovation work, it is closed to the public, but you can still discover some of its works for free in the Church of the Cordeliers. A permanent exhibition allows you to discover, in particular, the history of the Duchy of Lorraine. This church also served as a burial place for the Dukes of Lorraine from the 15th to the 18th century.
You can also admire the ducal chapel built in 1608 and its dome adorned with 386 sculpted coffers. And do not miss the recumbent statue of Philippe de Gueldre (Duchess of Lorraine) by Ligier Richier, which is an iconic work of 16th-century sculpture.
Lorraine Museum
In the Church of the Cordeliers
Free entry during renovation work
Tuesday to Sunday from 10 AM to 12:30 PM and from 2 PM to 6 PM (and Easter and Pentecost Mondays)
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Visit the Ecole de Nancy Museum
This museum, located in the heart of the Nancy Thermal district, is the only one in the world entirely dedicated to Art Nouveau. It opened its doors in May 1954 and is housed in a mansion that recreates the atmosphere of a 1900s home, the Corbin property, and houses pieces by Gallé, Majorelle, Vallin, Gruber… with very varied collections (furniture, glassware, stained glass, leather, ceramics…).
It is also very pleasant to stroll through the garden of the museum, which evokes a garden from the beginning of the 20th century, favoring plant species created by Nancy horticulturists of that era (plus, access to the garden is free). It also collects 3 Art Nouveau-style monuments and is listed in the supplementary inventory of Historical Monuments.
Ecole de Nancy Museum
38 Rue Sergent Blandan, 54000 Nancy
Rates: €6 / free access on the 1st Sunday of every month and for those under 26 and students
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Visit the Villa Majorelle
This magnificent 3-story house, a manifesto of the Art Nouveau movement, is the work of the young Parisian architect Henri Sauvage. It was the residence of Louis Majorelle, a cabinetmaker by trade, decorative artist, ironworker, and Nancy industrialist. Together with other Lorraine artists, he participated in the founding of the Provincial Alliance of Art Industries, also called the “Ecole de Nancy.” The group advocated for accessible, elegant, and functional decorative art, making Nancy a capital of Art Nouveau in France.
Construction of the villa began in 1901 and was completed in 1902, the year the family moved into the house, nicknamed “Villa Jika” (in tribute to Louis Majorelle‘s wife). At that time, the villa was surrounded by a one-hectare garden, sheltering the property from the bustle of the city. Since 2016, the villa has undergone numerous renovation works that have restored its former beauty. It is a place you must visit if you are interested in Art Nouveau.
For information, if you are wondering, the Majorelle Villa in Marrakech was the home of Jacques Majorelle, the only son of Louis Majorelle and Jane Kretz, and an orientalist painter who settled in Morocco.
Villa Majorelle
1 Rue Louis Majorelle 54000 Nancy
Open to individual visitors from 2 PM to 6 PM Wednesday to Sunday (reservation very highly recommended)Rates: self-guided tour €6 / €4 reduced / free for those under 12
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Take a guided tour with Destination Nancy – Tourist Office
The Nancy tourist office regularly offers guided tours of the city on various themes: historical center, Art Nouveau, municipalities of the Metropolis… Do not hesitate to check their website and book a tour before your stay.
Guided tours by Destination Nancy – Tourist Office
Rates: €10 / free for those under 6 and for everyone during the European Artistic Crafts Days (March) and Heritage Days (September)
Duration of guided tours: 1.5 hours
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Eugène Vallin Circuit
We took advantage of the European Artistic Crafts Days to go on a free guided tour about the cabinetmaker Eugène Vallin. On the occasion of the centenary of this artist’s death, a member of the Ecole de Nancy, a new circuit was proposed in 2022. It invites you to follow the traces of Vallin’s works in the city center of Nancy: wooden facade, collaboration with architects, neo-Gothic church furniture… The artist carried out several architectural works between 1900 and 1905 in the Lorraine city.
Duration of the visit: 1.5 hours
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Guided tour of the stained glass windows of the Saint-Epvre Basilica
This church was built in the 19th century (in only 10 years) after the destruction of the old 15th-century church. It is also one of the most remarkable churches in Nancy because it is adorned with many stained glass windows to which some great masters contributed, including Jacques Gruber. Today, one can admire a set of about 70 stained glass windows from the Geyling workshops in Vienna. The guide takes you to discover all these works one by one and provides commentary to make them more understandable for non-initiates.
Duration of the visit: 1.5 hours
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Go for a Street art walk in Nancy
There is an urban route (downloadable online) with a few stops in the city to discover about 30 street-art works by local, national, or international artists. These works constitute a true collection outside the walls of the Museum of Fine Arts. For our part, we did a small part of this circuit and there are really very interesting works to discover!
To see: the bull by Gé Pellini; “Giulia,” the monumental fresco by David Walker; the three polar bears by Bordalo II; the fresco by Momo…
ADN-Art route in Nancy
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Have an evening at the National Opera of Lorraine
Ideally located on Place Stanislas, the National Opera of Lorraine offers great lyrical works, operas, concerts, and ballets. I took advantage of one of my visits to the city in November 2022 to go discover “The Love for Three Oranges,” a 4-act opera with a prologue by Prokofiev, created at the Chicago Opera (in French) in 1921.
The pro tip: 45 minutes before the start of the show, you can attend the “quarter-hour to understand,” a kind of short explanatory lecture on the work to follow; and it’s free upon presentation of a ticket for the show).
National Opera of Lorraine
1 Rue Sainte-Catherine, 54000 Nancy
Rates: between €5 and €75
The pro tip: last-minute rate reserved for young people (under 30), students, and job seekers = €8 1 hour before the start of the show and €5 for concerts
Experience Saint-Nicolas in Nancy
The festival of the patron saint of the people of Lorraine is obviously a very highly anticipated moment of winter in Nancy. Numerous activities and events take place in different places in the old town at the time of this traditional Lorraine festival, and you can also find a Christmas market (called Saint-Nicolas villages here) with many artisan chalets. The festivities last an average of a month and a half, from mid-November to the beginning of January.
The highlight of this festival is obviously the Saint-Nicolas weekend (the first of December), which offers 2 days of free programming with numerous shows. And it is precisely at that time that we came to Nancy for the first time. What a magical moment to discover the city, I must say. It was also the opportunity to attend the unmissable Saint-Nicolas parade, composed in 2021 of 23 floats from the communes and associations of the Greater Nancy Metropolis. The good deal is also that during that weekend, the city’s museums are free for everyone!
Regarding gourmet treats, all the confectioners in the city celebrate Saint-Nicolas at this time of year with a large production of gingerbread. These can be covered in glaze or feature an image representing Saint-Nicolas. This is an excellent gift idea to bring back if you come to Nancy during this festive period.
On the agenda: Saint-Nicolas villages, shows, street parades, Ferris wheel (rates €7 / children under 8 €5), ice rink, merry-go-rounds, street concerts, video mapping on the City Hall facade every evening, illuminations…
The 2021 Saint-Nicolas villages (theme centered around fauna and flora): kid’s village with old merry-go-rounds; Ferris Wheel village; Jojo village; Saint Nicolas gate village; Grand Village of St Nicolas; Old Bearded Man’s village; Artist’s Hamlet; gourmet village.
Saint-Nicolas in Nancy
From November 19, 2021, to January 2, 2022
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Take a guided tour about Saint-Nicolas
These tours allow you to discover the stories and legends of this bishop from Asia Minor who lived between the 3rd and 4th centuries AD and who single-handedly carries a large part of Lorraine culture. It’s an opportunity to learn more about this amazing character and the origins of this popular festival that is several centuries old. Everything begins notably at Saint-Nicolas-de-Port, a small port on the banks of the Meurthe where a pilgrimage has existed since the 12th century, because a relic of Saint-Nicolas (a piece of a finger bone bought in Bari by a knight of Lorraine) arrived there in the Middle Ages. Finally, since Saint-Nicolas died on December 6, that is obviously the reason why we celebrate him on that date!
Then, in 1477, during the Battle of Nancy, Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, died and the battle was won by Duke René II of Lorraine. To thank Saint-Nicolas for this victory, he had a basilica built in Saint-Nicolas-de-Port. This was also the beginning of a prosperous era, and Saint-Nicolas thus became the Patron Saint of Lorraine.
Guided tours by the Nancy Tourist Office on Saint-Nicolas
Several Saturdays in November and December
Rates: €10 / free for those under 6
Duration of guided tours: 1.5 hours
My food tips in Nancy
As usual, you will find below my selection of great addresses in Nancy (several restaurants and shops) that we had the opportunity to test during our two stays in the city with my favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the opportunity to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to Lorraine.
Some local specialties: the city of Nancy is rich in sweet specialties (there is even a brand of the city on the subject created in 2018, Nancy Passions Sucrées) such as the Nancy macaron (go check out the boutique of the Maison des Sœurs Macarons (21 Rue Gambetta), which is the most famous for this delicacy), the baba au Tokay de Stanislas (probably the original recipe from Stanislas’s time, while Parisian confectioners chose to use rum in the 19th century because it was less expensive), the Bergamote de Nancy, which has been a PGI since 1996 and is the city’s reference candy (the Bergamot essence comes from Calabria), the mirabelle (queen of fruits in Lorraine), and there is also a tradition of red sugar (sugar flavored with poppies).
Some extra good addresses: during my trip in 2022, I tested products from the Leprovost butcher and charcuterie (28 Rue Raymond Poincaré) and it was very good!
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Where to have a gourmet meal in Nancy? La Maison dans le Parc
Ideally located a stone’s throw from Place Stanislas, in the historic center of Nancy, this restaurant enjoys a beautiful location, a contemporary dining room, and a charming terrace opening onto a park with centuries-old trees for sunny days. The weather wasn’t exactly perfect during our visit, but we still enjoyed the beautiful view of the park from our table. This address belongs to the young chef Charles Coulombeau and his wife Roxane Coulombeau. Together, they have taken over the La Maison dans le Parc restaurant in Nancy (which previously existed) since July 2021.
We had planned to test this restaurant before our 2nd stay in Nancy, and the week before our arrival, the restaurant was awarded a star in the Michelin Guide and the 2022 Michelin Welcome and Service Award. We did not doubt the quality of this establishment, but we were even more delighted to discover it in this context. And we were truly enchanted by this top-tier lunch.
Charles Coulombeau‘s cuisine is based on local and seasonal products from producers in the region, with a very strong eco-responsible vision (a desire to avoid food waste, which in my opinion is essential in restaurants today), and social commitment (every Thursday, with the vegetable trimmings and unsold items, the chef and the brigade cook and donate soup to Les Restos du Cœur) which I particularly appreciated. The chef offers traditional French cuisine but with Asian inspirations, due to his travels in Japan.
On our Tasting menu: Beetroot from the Ferme du Pichou in 24 preparations; roasted milk-fed veal sweetbread with Conté, parsnips, and wasabi; a meat tartare (certainly the best I have eaten so far and my favorite dish of this lunch, which is a challenge because I don’t really like it normally); dessert around apple with clementine, Vadouvan, and honey; dessert around banana in a salted butter and Norman cider souffle.
La Maison dans le Parc
3 Rue Sainte Catherine 54000 Nancy
Restaurant open Wednesday to Saturday lunch and dinner and Sunday lunch
Price: “Menu du Moment” with appetizer + main course + dessert of your choice from the menu at €72 (vegetarian menu possible on request) and €90 with 2 glasses of wine / Six-course Tasting menu €105 (€135 with 4 glasses of wine) created based on seasonal products and the chef’s inspiration, served for the whole table
The pro tip: Lunch suggestion with appetizer + main course + dessert at €42 (€50 with 2 glasses of wine)
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Where to eat around Place Stanislas in Nancy? Grand Café Foy
This traditional brasserie offers a very beautiful view of Place Stanislas, and we actually had a charming little table upstairs, well-situated to enjoy it. It is a Nancy institution since it was created in 1850 and owes its name to an Empire General, Maximilien Sébastien Foy.
To taste: pumpkin soup, Cognac whipped cream and chestnut chips; Quiche Lorraine with country bacon; piece of free-range poultry from Moselle with morel sauce; braised pork shank with beer and green lentils; crème brûlée with Nancy bergamot (€7.50); gourmet coffee (€9.90).
Grand Café Foy
1 Place Stanislas 54000 Nancy
Price: set menus from €29 (€35 with wine pairings) / bill for 2 people, expect around €60 / wine by the glass between €5.50 and €9 / children’s menu €12.90
The pro tip: daily special formula at €19.50 with dish of the day + dessert from the menu (only for lunch excluding weekends and holidays)
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Where to have lunch in an Art Nouveau setting? Brasserie Excelsior
This Nancy institution opened its doors in 1911, and the building was constructed by architects Lucien Weissemburger and Alexandre Mienville. Its exterior architecture evokes the achievements of Viennese Art Nouveau, and the interior layout of the brasserie’s large hall is characteristic of the Ecole de Nancy. Indeed, one can notably find a set of stained glass windows by Jacques Gruber, some furniture comes from the Majorelle workshops, and the chandeliers and wall lamps are signed Daum. Under the influence of Art Deco, an extension of the brasserie was built in this new style (current entrance and salons), and the staircase descent also became a masterpiece, this time inspired by the ironworker Jean Prouvé.
Ideally located in the Nancy train station district, this brasserie, in the tradition of the great Parisian cafes of the Belle Époque, was a very fashionable place until the Second World War. It then took until 1987 and its acquisition by FLO for the soul of this place to be reborn and once again be popular with the people of Nancy. As for cuisine, one finds a very classic brasserie, and I think one comes mainly to eat there to enjoy the magnificent decor of the place.
Our menu: salmon fillet cooked on the skin, parsnip cream, and sorrel sauce; supreme of French poultry and Spatzle; Le Tout Nancy, iced parfait with macaron and bergamot chips, mirabelle coulis (one of the city’s sweet specialties); vanilla crème brûlée.
Brasserie Excelsior
50 Rue Henri Poincaré 54000 NancyOpen 7 days a week / 8 AM to 12:30 AM Tuesday to Saturday and 8 AM to 11 PM Sunday and Monday
The pro tip: express & brasserie menu starting at €28.90
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Where to eat a burger in Nancy? Voyou Burger
If you are a fan of good burgers and craft beers, I warmly recommend you test this friendly address located not far from Place Stanislas. The welcome is very smiley, the burgers are super generous (like, really very filling) and very successful, and the address also offers a nice selection of craft beers, especially local ones, matching the burger you have chosen.
The restaurant, which has existed since 2014, prepares its burgers with fresh and local products. The atmosphere and the decor of the 3-level place are also very pleasant. In short, a good street-food address that I recommend during a short trip to Nancy.
Voyou Burger
20 Rue Stanislas, 54000 Nancy
Price of burgers served with homemade fries and salad: €16.90
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Where to dine in the Old Town, in the “gourmet street” of Nancy? Bistrot de Gilles
This friendly restaurant has existed since 1981 and offers French and Lorraine specialties in a colorful and intimate setting. The service is friendly, casual, and extremely smiling! As for the cuisine, the dishes are simple and generously garnished.
To taste: grated potatoes with herb cottage cheese; Marie Leczinska queen bites with veal sweetbreads, poultry quenelle, cream, and mushrooms; braised chuck steak (Lorraine terroir meat) cooked for 8 hours; for dessert, the baba with mirabelle plum brandy.
Bistrot de Gilles
31 Rue des Maréchaux 54000 Nancy
Open every day from 11:45 AM to 2:30 PM and from 6:45 PM to 11 PM
Price: Lorraine menu at €28.90 and Epicurean menu at €38.90 / wines by the glass between €4.90 and €7.90
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Where to eat/buy good cheeses in Nancy? Chez les Frères Marchand
“Les Frères Marchand” is one of the oldest affineur houses in France, whose secrets have been passed down for 6 generations. Today, it is the 4 Marchand brothers who have taken over the business and who offer, in addition to the production and sale of cheeses, a restaurant in the center of Nancy that we tested during our first getaway to the city in December 2021.
During our two visits, we also took advantage of our visit each time to buy and bring back some local cheeses to Paris: the Gros Lorrain, notably, which is washed with mirabelle liqueur and comes from a recipe of the Marchand brothers’ grandmother.
Restaurant and cheese shops of the Frères Marchand
99 Grande Rue, 54000 Nancy
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Where to buy local products in Nancy? L’Epicerie du Goût (closed)
This friendly shop, which has existed since 2010, offers a beautiful selection of regional products, and Bénédicte and Marie welcome you with a smile and give very good advice (especially regarding beers, all of which they have tasted, and I say bravo!). You can find Lorraine specialties, cheeses, beers, gift ideas, and lots of other things!
Epicerie du Goût (closed)
4 Place de Vaudémont, 54000 Nancy
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10 AM to 1 PM and 3:30 PM to 8 PM, and only from 2:30 PM to 8 PM on Saturday
My hotels and accommodations in Nancy
As usual, you will find below my selection of great hotel addresses in Nancy that we had the opportunity to test during our two stays in the city with my favorite photographer.
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Where to sleep in Nancy not far from the station? Hôtel Stanley
This 3-star hotel is ideally located in the city center, just a 2-minute walk from the Nancy train station. Its colorful wallpapers, echoing the theme of nature, give it a bohemian and vintage look, and grant it a certain charm. The room we had looked directly onto the street and the tram, and I was afraid of noise pollution, but I must say that the hotel’s double glazing is quite effective, and the room was finalement very quiet, which reassured me.
The little extra: the hot and cold drinks corner in the lobby, accessible for free to hotel guests all day long!
Hôtel Stanley
61 Rue Pierre Semard, 54000 Nancy
Price: room from €71
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Where to sleep in Nancy in a charming hotel? Hôtel de Guise
This 3-star hotel is installed in a seigneurial mansion in the heart of the city of the Dukes of Lorraine. The latter was built in 1752, on the remaining bases of a 17th-century abbey, by the Marquis de Jouffroy and the Countess of Bressey, famous for having been one of the favorites at the court of King Stanislas. The hotel has the typical character of old buildings, and I must say that I really appreciated my stay there in December 2021.
The hotel is notably very quiet because it overlooks a fairly quiet street. For my part, I was accommodated on the top floor in a very small room but perfect for what I had to do. Furthermore, there is no elevator, so if you have problems climbing or descending steps, do not hesitate to report it at the time of your booking to be accommodated on the ground floor.
Hôtel de Guise
18 Rue de Guise, 54000 Nancy
Price: from €74 per night
Thanks to Destination Nancy – Tourist Office for organizing the weekend in 2022 and to the Heymann Associes agency for the Saint-Nicolas day in 2021.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Nancy, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Find all my articles on the Grand-Est below:
⇒ All my articles on the Grand-Est
MY ARTICLES ON THE GRAND EST
⇒ The Aube
⇒ The Meuse
⇒ The Marne
⇒ The Haute-Marne
⇒ The Moselle
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Mademoiselle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
