We are back in the Aisne department (don’t hesitate to check out my other articles on the Aisne), a territory with diverse geographic features, to discover the south of this region with the Pays de Retz-en-Valois, which comprises 54 communes. We visited in September 2022, just in time to enjoy the European Heritage Days weekend, and we found that this area is rich in historical monuments and museums.
One of the unique features of this territory is that it is located in the heart of the beautiful Retz Forest (about 13,000 hectares), which is labeled a “Forêt d’exception” (there are only 15 in France with this label issued by an ONF commission). The destination offers an exceptional natural setting, as the Retz forest is the largest beech forest in France and is compared to a forest amphitheater due to its horseshoe shape. It also boasts over 300 km of forest edges with plenty of large game that move around easily. And looking toward the future, an interesting project is that the community of communes will create a bike route between La Ferté-Milon and Pierrefonds in the coming years.
Table of Contents
Practical information for visiting the Pays de Retz-en-Valois
This destination is just an hour from Paris, and it is very easy to get there from the capital. To come to Villers-Cotterêts from Paris, you need to take the TER from Gare du Nord (a journey of just under an hour).
Paris/Villers-Cotterêts trip by TER
Fares: about €14.50 one way
Duration: about 50 minutes
Discover the town of Villers-Cotterêts
The town of Villers-Cotterêts (which has about 11,000 inhabitants) is located about 1 hour from Paris, in the heart of the Pays de Retz-en-Valois. Situated in a clearing in the Retz forest, it developed around the château of Francis I. It encompasses the Domaine de Villers-Cotterêts, which at the time included the château, agricultural land, and part of the Retz forest. This site has been known at least since the reign of Clovis, and in fact, the first medieval château, whose archaeological remains were found recently, dates back to the 12th century and it had a keep.
But it was really during the Renaissance, under the reign of Francis I in the 16th century, that the château grew in importance. Francis I made the château of Villers-Cotterêts his royal residence in the years 1528-1530, upon his return from captivity. He chose this location because it was the vastest hunting estate in France at the time and had a lot of game. Nicknamed “my pleasure” by Francis I, Villers-Cotterêts became the king’s vacation and hunting residence, and it held an intimate place in his heart compared to other royal residences. He famously hosted large parties there.
Finally, the place is best known for being the site of the signing of the Ordinance of Villers-Cotterêts in 1539. The latter laid the foundations for the French civil status by imposing the use of the “French” mother tongue in French Justice and administration, instead of Latin. This act was a cornerstone of the unity of the Nation through documents, as it established French in official records. Today, it is considered to be something of the first stone in the construction of the Nation as we know it today. Under the reign of Louis XIV, the château and the Valois domain were given to Monsieur, the king’s brother, and then it was the family of the Duke of Orléans who took possession of the place until the French Revolution. After this episode, the château became a beggars’ depot and then a retirement home until 2014.
Retz-en-Valois Tourist Office
6 place Aristide Briand 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
Good to know: the tourist office also has a small shop that offers local products (we bought a local Mouss’tache beer – €6.50)
_
The International City of the French Language
This future International City of the French Language is scheduled to open in October 2023 in the former Château de Villers-Cotterêts, which will house this new cultural venue managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. It is truly a major project, as it is the 2nd largest heritage project in France after the Notre-Dame de Paris renovation site. It was Macron, while he was a presidential candidate, who took up the subject and made it a reality in 2018 by announcing the creation of a laboratory dedicated to the French Language. This highly tourist-oriented project aims to be part of the major French itineraries. The choice of location is explained in particular by the strong literary identity of the territory (birthplace of Racine, Dumas…) and also because of the signing of the Ordinance of Villers-Cotterêts that I told you about a little earlier.
We naturally could not visit the venue because it is not yet open to the public, but you can go to the Project House (which is open to the public every Saturday) to learn more about this future major cultural site. The idea of this International City of the French Language is therefore to present to the general public the adventure of French, focusing on the richness of Francophone expression (French but also the languages of France) and also the different levels of the French language.
In the future city, there will be many artist residences, 1,200 m2 of digital-focused exhibition space with tactile devices, a playful tour for children, a library, a bookstore shop, a cafe, and you will be able to enter the castle courtyard without necessarily visiting the city. The permanent exhibition will offer an original museography around an invitation to travel, like a window open to the world in connection with other languages. While waiting for the upcoming opening of the City of the French Language, you could discover a photo exhibition “En perdre son latin” visible in the small grove of the Villers-Cotterêts castle park.
International City of the French Language
Château de Villers-Cotterêts
1 Place Aristide Briand, 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
_
Hiking the Salamander trail in the Retz Forest
Attached to the royal domain since the 12th century, the Retz forest is primarily populated by beech trees. Its surface area is 13,339 hectares, of which 12,483 are located in the Aisne, and it is the sixth-largest forest massif in France. With over 560 km of forest paths, the forest is truly a paradise for hikers. You should also know that this forest was at the heart of the battles of the Great War.
We tested the Salamander Circuit with our favorite photographer (a 9km loop – estimated duration 3h/3h30). On paper, we were told to count on 3 hours to do it, but I think it’s more like 3 hours and 30 minutes of walking without stopping. In total, with our picnic stop and photo stops, it took us 4 hours and 45 minutes… So I advise you to plan at least 4 hours of walking with breaks to do this hike at a leisurely pace. Another piece of advice: the terrain was very rugged with many fallen trees blocking the path when we did it, so I recommend you be well equipped for this hike. The trail is still quite poorly marked in my opinion for now, so I also recommend you bring a map with the description of the circuit, which is an essential aid to avoid getting lost, I think.
Otherwise, this hike under the sign of the Salamander (emblem of Francis I) is very interesting, and it allows you to discover the network of underground aqueducts that supplied water to the town of Villers-Cotterêts, as well as quite a few plant and heritage curiosities. For information, the hike can start in front of the Villers-Cotterêts tourist office.
My advice: if you want to picnic on the trail, I recommend you stop near the Malva pond where you have picnic tables to lunch in the shade of large beech trees.
To see during this hike: the Royal Alley, the “regard” or Saint-Hubert hermitage, the Malva pond, the Clouise stone (a huge inclined sandstone block 9 meters high)…
Salamander Circuit
_
Climb to the top of the General Mangin Observation Tower
This museum in the heart of nature peaks at 220m in altitude, and the tower itself is 25 meters high. This reconstruction of the General Mangin Observatory Tower during the Great War offers one of the highest panoramas in the region with a breathtaking view of the forest massif. Additionally, on each floor, there are educational and playful panels either on the fauna and flora of the forest or on the local history of the First World War in the region.
However, a small recommendation: if you have a fear of heights, I don’t recommend climbing to the very top of the tower, because even the favorite photographer and I, who don’t usually have a fear of heights, really felt it once we were at the top. But obviously, when you access the top floor, you have an exceptional 360° view in the heart of the canopy that is truly magnificent and well worth the climb!
General Mangin Observation Tower
Route forestière du Faîte
To get there, take the Route du Faîte in the Retz forest / you have to go there by car or bike
Good to know: a parking area is located at the bottom of the hill where the tower is built
The good deal: free entry
_
Visit the Henri II Pavilion
The Henri II Pavilion is a private residence today, but it is open for tours (guided only) by its owners during Heritage Days and also on weekends between April and September.
This building listed as a Historical Monument was one of the corner pavilions of the garden enclosures of the Villers-Cotterêts castle. It was actually the “rest” pavilion of Francis I in the 16th century. In the 18th century, Louis-Philippe d’Orléans, known as “the Fat,” great-grandson of the brother of Louis XIV, fled Versailles and its etiquette and came to settle in Villers-Cotterêts. He enlarged the pavilion and carried out many works in the town. Finally, King Louis-Philippe bought it to make it his residence, redecorated it, and kept it until his death. The facade we can admire today was remodeled in the 18th century.
The Henri II Pavilion
15 Passage du Manège, 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
open every Saturday and Sunday from April 1st to July 16th and from August 12th to September 24th, 2023
Duration: 45 minutes
Fares: guided tour €6.50 per person / free for children under 10 / European Heritage Days, special rate €5 per person
_
In the footsteps of Alexandre Dumas in Villers-Cotterêts
The famous author of The Three Musketeers was born in Villers-Cotterêts on July 24, 1802, and lived there until the age of 21. There is an urban route “In the footsteps of Alexandre Dumas” (2km loop – about 1 hour) which starts from the town’s tourist office. It is an opportunity to discover the places that have preserved the mark of this illustrious child of the country (St-Nicolas church where Alexandre Dumas was baptized, his birthplace, the cemetery where his family rests…) and to learn more about his life as well.
_
Visit the Dumas Museum
During this urban route, you can visit the Dumas Museum which recounts the destiny and romantic life of the Dumas family. Housed since 1952 in a beautiful 19th-century private mansion, this museum preserves the memory of three generations of this illustrious family: Thomas-Alexandre Davy de la Pailleterie, a general of the Republic (who had an incredible life, it must be said, and whose name has unfortunately fallen into a bit of oblivion today), his son Alexandre, known as Dumas père, and finally the son of Alexandre Dumas, also called Dumas fils, an academician and author of the book, The Lady of the Camellias.
Dumas Museum
24 rue Demoustier 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
Fares: €3.90 / €3.20 reduced / free for under 18s and for everyone on the 1st Sunday of the month
_
Go on a stag bellowing outing with the ONF
Every autumn, during the mating season, the forest resonates with the bellowing of the stag challenging its peers to court the hinds. Accompanied by a passionate forest technician, Lysian, we went to discover the magical sound of this animal and its peculiarities during this special reproduction period.
This outing organized by the ONF (National Forests Office) and the Villers-Cotterêts tourist office takes place in the evening, and it is important to go in a group in a reasoned manner and with a professional so as not to disturb the animal too much. In any case, we really loved this unique and truly magical experience! It is also an opportunity to go into the forest at night to discover and be attentive to the sounds of nature, and to enjoy, if you are lucky, this magical concert offered by this impressive animal.
My recommendations: the nights are cool at this time of year so remember to dress warmly (think of a hat and gloves, possibly, because we stay outside for almost 2 hours and 30 minutes in total, I would say). And also wear shoes adapted for walking.
Stag Bellowing Outings
Fares (accessible from age 10 for children who must be accompanied): €12 / €6 reduced
Several dates offered in September in the evening from 8:30 PM to 11:30 PM
_
Where to buy local products in Villers-Cotterêts? At the Terroir Gourmand
This address and delicatessen is ideal for buying local products. We notably bought some local beers there to bring back a souvenir of our getaway in the Pays de Retz.
Au Terroir Gourmand
4 rue de Verdun 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
_
Where to have lunch in Villers-Cotterêts? At the La Tulipe restaurant
This restaurant is located in the famous Rue du Général Mangin, which brings together a large part of the food shops in Villers-Cotterêts. It is apparently the location of the former Croix d’Or hotel. You will find a colorful and chic decor with several different areas. On the plates, we discover generous and well-made cuisine with good products. The address offers well-made French dishes with a bit of originality, as well as burgers, salads, fresh pasta, or even pizzas.
We tasted: for a starter, the salmon and spinach egg cocotte (€8.90); the local goat cheese burger, very hearty (€15.90); the pork tenderloin roulade, Parma ham, morel cream espuma, and risotto cake (€17.90); for dessert, the tiramisu (€6.90).
La Tulipe Restaurant
16 rue du Général Mangin, 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
The good deal: daily set menu at lunch (excluding weekends) with main course + dessert at €16.90
Price: La Tulipe menu with starter + main course or main course + dessert at €24.90 and starter + main course + dessert at €29.90
_
Where to have dinner in Villers-Cotterêts? At the Kiosque de Bacchus
I highly recommend this address if you are passing through Villers-Cotterêts. It’s a very nice restaurant with vintage decor and a library at the back of the establishment. The service is very friendly, and the establishment is also a wine bar with a beautiful selection of bottles and vineyards. In the kitchen, the chef Ben offers simple and well-made cuisine with quality products. Finally, at the back of the room, there is a beautiful hidden terrace for sunny days.
We tasted: carpaccio of heirloom tomatoes, mozzarella, basil pesto; sea bream tartare, dill, and timut pepper; sirloin steak with porcini mushroom sauce (chef’s specialty); sea bass fillet with tomato-basil sauce.
Au Kiosque de Bacchus
12 rue du Général Mangin 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
Price: menus with starter + main course or main course + dessert at €21.90 or starter + main course + dessert at €26.40
_
Where to sleep in Villers-Cotterêts? Hotel Le Régent
This 3-star hotel with 20 rooms, located in the city center, is housed in a former 17th-century horse post house and inn, which is full of charm. The current hotel was created in 1970. We were housed in a small standard room on the ground floor (no. 22), very quiet, extremely functional (notably with a kitchenette), but devoid of charm. I was also very disappointed by the breakfast, which was not up to the standard of a 3-star hotel, in my opinion (no local products, just industrial products and little choice), which is a bit of a shame. On the other hand, the breakfast room is very pretty with a beautiful 19th-century fireplace.
Hotel Le Régent
26 Rue du Général Mangin, 02600 Villers-Cotterêts
Fares: standard room from €75 per night for 1 person and from €95 for 2 people / breakfast €10
To see / to do in the Pays de Retz
As usual, you will find in this part ideas of things to see and do (tested and approved with the favorite photographer during our stay) if you come to the Pays de Retz. To discover this territory, I advise you, however, to have a vehicle, as it will be the easiest way for you to get around.
_
Discover Longpont
Located in a wide valley bordering the Retz forest, the small village of Longpont is not lacking in charm, and it is obviously worth a stop to visit its abbey and to stroll through its charming narrow streets where the cats seem to have an easy life (and we want to do the same!). You will also discover typical architecture of the south of the Aisne with “step-gabled” houses (protruding gable whose ends are cut into steps).
_
Visit the Abbey of Longpont
This visit was one of our highlights of this stay in the Pays de Retz-en-Valois! You can discover the ruins of a Gothic abbey church that had the size of the great medieval cathedrals. The latter was founded by Saint Bernard in 1131 and consecrated the following century in the presence of Saint Louis. This vast construction was unfortunately partially destroyed after the Revolution, but it remains a testimony to the great achievements of the Cistercian order.
You can visit the ruins of the abbey church but also part of the other buildings linked to the abbey, such as a 12th-century heated room with a central fireplace, a cloister, and a large 18th-century staircase in the residential buildings. Indeed, the monument is today a private property inhabited by its owners, but it can be visited in the summer season and during Heritage Days, and it is also rented out for receptions.
Abbey of Longpont
2 Place de l’Abbaye, 02600 Longpont
open for visits between mid-June and the end of September on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays
Fares: €8 / €6 reduced
_
Where to eat in Longpont? Hotel de l’Abbaye
After our visit to the abbey, we stopped at the restaurant of the Hotel de l’Abbaye for a rustic lunch. This establishment is housed in the former Abbey Lodging, which previously welcomed pilgrims passing through. We were not totally thrilled by what we ate (overall, the dishes were quite fatty and not very well presented), and we found it a bit expensive compared to the quality of the cuisine. We had ordered: a Maroilles cheese brick; a trout fillet with leek sauce; a guinea fowl roasted with thyme; and a vanilla crème brûlée for dessert.
However, the owner of the hotel is very friendly and welcoming, and he especially gave us very good advice and very interesting recommendations for places to visit in the surrounding area (it was he who gave us the good idea to go to the château de Oigny en Valois, which I talk about just below). In addition, the place has a charming shaded terrace on the garden side for sunny days.
Hotel de l’Abbaye
8 rue des Tourelles 02600 LongpontTerroir menu on weekends at €25 with starter + main course + dessert
Lunch set menu (excluding weekends and public holidays) at €19 with starter + main course or main course + dessert
_
Visit the Oigny-en-Valois castle
This castle is private, but we had the chance to visit its exterior and gardens as part of the European Heritage Days. The main brick building dates from the early 16th century and it is truly magnificent. The castle also has a very large park, where we were able to walk freely during this exceptional opening day. There was no specific explanation, but I must say that we were totally charmed by the place.
Château d’Oigny-en-Valois
open only for European Heritage Days
free visit
_
Discover La Ferté-Milon
This picturesque town is dominated by an imposing 14th-century castle, and La Ferté-Milon also houses several architectural treasures. The facade of the fortress of the Dukes of Orléans, which overlooks the town like a film set, is really worth seeing! The town is located 9km from Villers-Cotterêts and about 12 minutes by car.
I also recommend you go and discover the Notre-Dame church, as well as the Eiffel footbridge that crosses the Ourcq canal. In 2022, the Ourcq Canal also celebrated its 200th anniversary. The initial objective of this construction was to supply Paris with drinking water, and it contributed to the economic development of the territory thanks to the transport of wood and other goods. This canal still crosses the territory of Retz-en-Valois today, and particularly the town of La Ferté-Milon, to which it brings a very bucolic charm.
My advice: for walking in the town, do not hesitate to take the small brochure “les flâneries milonaises” where you will find a visit route and information on the main sites of the town to discover.
_
Visit the Jean Racine Museum
This museum, opened in the early 1990s, preserves the memory of its illustrious child, Jean Racine, an orphan raised by his grandmother before soaring toward the literary and theatrical glory we know him for. From the authentic cellar where he played as a child, through the testimonials of his career, to his portraits, his family, this house in old Milon is a nice setting to discover a little more about this Grand Century playwright.
The museum is managed by the Association “Jean Racine and its Terroir”, which manages and animates this place on a volunteer basis. It also offers temporary exhibitions around the life of Racine (until the end of October 2022 you could find an exhibition on the theme “Intimate Racine, letters to his family, 1659 to 1698”).
Jean Racine Museum
2 Rue des Bouchers, 02460 La Ferté-Milon
museum open from mid-April to early November from 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and from 2:00 PM to 5:30 PM
The good deal: free entry
_
Visit the Regional Agricultural Machinery Museum
This very unusual museum was inaugurated in 1985 and created at the initiative of Mr. and Mrs. Coppin. It gathers, as its name suggests, an impressive collection of agricultural machines and notably one of the most beautiful tractor collections in France: 50 tractors from 31 different brands, the oldest dating from 1916. This museum is completely in its original state, but it is not lacking in charm, and above all, it presents rare machines and has the merit of allowing the conservation of this agricultural material that could have disappeared without its existence. I therefore strongly encourage you to take a look if you are passing through La Ferté-Milon.
Regional Agricultural Machinery Museum
68 Bis Rue de la Chaussée, 02460 La Ferté-Milon
open with free entry, weekends and public holidays from 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and from 2:00 PM to 5:30 PM from April to October
_
Go canoeing on the Ourcq Canal
A short ride on the Ourcq canal from the town center is entirely possible. We had the chance to do a quick and free ride as part of the European Heritage Days and the celebrations around the canal’s 200th anniversary, thanks to the association “Les Racines de l’Ourcq”. In any case, do not hesitate to ask, because there must also be companies that rent canoes in the area if you want to enjoy the tranquility of the place, as it is very pleasant to paddle on the canal.
_
Where to sleep in La Ferté-Milon? Bed and Breakfast La Fontaine Racine
This beautiful B&B and table d’hôtes address is ideally located in the historic center of La Ferté-Milon. It takes place in an old house with a very rich history, built by the governor of La Ferté-Milon in 1565. The address also serves table d’hôtes and regularly organizes events, concerts, exhibitions, and receptions. We really fell in love with this address. The place is incredible, and on top of that, the owners are truly charming and have a sense of hospitality. We were also lucky to be on-site when they were organizing an event in their garden: an exhibition + a live jazz evening and a very nice “guinguette” dinner.
The address has 5 rooms, and we were housed in a room on the top floor under the eaves. Regarding breakfast, if the weather is favorable, you can enjoy the place’s incredible garden; otherwise, it will be in a beautiful room inside the house.
La Fontaine Racine
9 rue Pomparde 02460 La Ferté-MilonFares : price of the room with breakfast (excluding public holidays) from Monday to Thursday €70 for 1 person, €80 for 2 people / from Friday to Sunday €80 for 1 person, €90 for 2 people
_
Thanks to the Retz-en-Valois Tourist Office and Laëtitia from Fluxus Communication for this warm welcome.
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to visit the Pays de Retz-en-Valois and Villers-Cotterêts, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and advice for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
