The city of Limoges doesn’t exactly have the most attractive image, which is a real shame. I’m going to try and convince you otherwise in this short city guide to the “red city”. Limoges is best known as the French capital of porcelain, and in fact, Limoges Porcelain has held an PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status since 2017. We went to discover Limoges with my favorite photographer in October 2023. As for me, I had already visited the city once a few years ago for work. The city is also the prefecture of the Haute-Vienne department and the second-largest city in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region.
Table of Contents
Practical information for visiting Limoges
How to get to Limoges from Paris and how to get around the city?
- Getting there by train: allow about 3h15 from Paris to the Limoges-Bénédictins station via Intercités train.
- The top tip: there are free electric shuttles in the city center.
_
My tip for visiting Limoges: the Pass Malin Limoges
This Pass provides free access to numerous sites (museums, leisure activities, nature, and places related to porcelain) in and around Limoges (21 sites are included in the Pass Limoges Malin and 19 sites in the Pass Maxi Malin). It is available in “24h”, “48h”, or “3 days to use whenever you want over 2 weeks” formats, and it can save you up to 66% with the Pass Maxi Malin, for example! If you are staying only in Limoges, I recommend the Pass Maxi Malin, which is cheaper and will be more than enough for your needs.
Limoges Métropole Tourist Office
Pass Maxi Malin (19 sites / the Reynou Zoo Park and Climb up are not included in this Pass): €10 adult 24h / €19 adult 48h / €25 adult 3 days
Pass Limoges Malin (21 sites): €22 adult 24h / €35 adult 48h / €40 adult 3 days
Link to the website for more information and to purchase the Pass online
What to see and do in Limoges?
The city of Limoges, founded near a ford on the Vienne river during antiquity, has a unique shape because it developed into two distinct centers (the Cité under the episcopal power and the Château under the aegis of the Viscount of Limoges) before being unified and extending to the northeast. This separation, although old, can still be seen and felt in the city’s architecture. In the 19th century, it was clearly the industrial development of the city that shaped it, with the installation of textile and porcelain industries, first along the banks of the Vienne because it provided hydraulic power, as well as wood delivered by floating. Then, with the arrival of the railway in 1856, urban expansion continued toward the north around the factories and working-class suburbs. Today, the city of Limoges has a little over 130,000 inhabitants within a metropolitan area of more than 280,000 people.
Regarding porcelain, since Limoges is extremely famous for this production, the discovery of kaolin (a white clay essential for making porcelain comparable to that of China, which represents 50% of the porcelain paste) near the city in Saint-Yrieix in 1768 gave birth to the porcelain industry. This activity accounted for about 12,000 workers in 1900 and forged the international reputation of the city. The urban landscape and social history of Limoges were strongly marked by the presence of this industry, and even today we can see the evidence. Below, as usual, I offer a small selection of things to do and see if you come to stay in Limoges or the region.
Also not to be missed:
- The rue de la Boucherie and its Saint-Aurélien chapel (15th century), a unique district with a medieval soul.
- The Saint-Michel-des-Lions basilica (14th and 15th centuries) which houses the reliquary shrine of Saint-Martial (1st Bishop of Limoges and apostle of Aquitaine).
- The Limoges-Bénédictins train station (you should see it when you arrive or leave if you come by train) which was crowned as one of the most beautiful stations in the world by Vanity Fair and Newsweek. It was completed and inaugurated in 1929 and was designed by the architect Roger Gonthier in a neoclassical style that mixes Art Nouveau stained glass and sculptures representing the arts of fire. It is built in reinforced concrete covered with a limestone facing and crowned by a copper dome. Its original silhouette, dominated by a beautiful campanile (visible from the whole city), has really become an emblem of Limoges. You can also admire the stained glass windows by Francis Chigot and the entrance sculptures representing the symbols of the Limousin as well as the regions served by the former Paris-Orléans company.
Limoges Métropole Tourist Office
_
Visiting the Saint-Etienne Cathedral and the Bishop’s Gardens
This Gothic cathedral, built approximately 600 years ago, stands above the botanical gardens of the Bishop’s Palace. You can admire 14th-century stained glass windows, a painting on loan from the Louvre Museum, as well as a contemporary black Virgin made of Limoges enamel, created by Léa Sham’s and Alain Duban. The cathedral also retains a Romanesque tower. Finally, don’t miss the limestone rood screen depicting the labors of Hercules, which is located at the entrance and constitutes a treasure of Renaissance architecture.
And after your visit to the cathedral, don’t miss out on strolling through the Bishop’s gardens which spread over 5 hectares and 6 terraces in the heart of the Cité district. These gardens were laid out during the construction of the new episcopal palace in the 18th century. You can discover French-style flowerbeds, a vast botanical and thematic garden, an ecological area, and terraces that offer a beautiful viewpoint over the banks of the Vienne. It is the perfect opportunity to wander peacefully in this place of relaxation and contemplation.
Saint-Etienne Cathedral
Place de la Cathédrale, Place Saint-Étienne, 87000 Limoges
Open and free admission during opening hours
_
Visiting the Pavillon du Verdurier
This one-of-a-kind pavilion is definitely worth a look! It is a former cold storage warehouse from the 1920s designed by Roger Gonthier (the architect who also designed the Limoges train station) and is entirely covered in flamed ceramic, the decoration of which evokes Art Nouveau. While the geometry of the lines and the use of concrete in the building’s construction link the structure to Art Deco. Today, you can admire temporary contemporary art exhibitions there.
Pavillon du Verdurier
Place Saint Pierre, 87000 Limoges
Open and free admission during opening hours
_
Visiting the Adrien Dubouché National Museum
The Adrien Dubouché National Museum is the museum of ceramics and Limoges porcelain. It bears the name of its greatest patron, Adrien Dubouché, a 19th-century businessman and art lover. The museum, created in 1845, was completely renovated in 2012 and also recently received a 3rd star in the Michelin Green Guide. Its tour path offers a space focused on ceramic manufacturing techniques (presenting machines and tools related to porcelain know-how), a chronological path with ceramics over time (from antiquity to the present day), and around the world in its Historical Gallery which preserves the original museum display cases, and a floor devoted to Limoges Porcelain, of course. The museum indeed possesses a collection of Limoges porcelain that is unique in the world and allows you to retrace its complete history from the end of the 18th century to contemporary creation. It preserves more than 16,000 objects representative of the arts of fire.
At the time of our visit, we were able to discover the temporary exhibition “Transmission” & expo “Inclassable – 30 years of CRAFT” (which was held until December 18, 2023), focused on the contemporary ceramic creation workshop, the Center for Research on Arts of Fire and Earth (CRAFT). The latter welcomes creators from the international art scene and invites them to develop projects within its workshop in Limoges. The exhibition was held as part of the 30th anniversary of the organization.
Adrien Dubouché National Museum
8 bis place Winston Churchill 87000 Limoges
Open every day except Tuesday
Rates: €7 / €5 reduced / free for all every 1st Sunday of the month and also all the time for those under 26, job seekers, and social minimum beneficiaries
The top tip: free admission with the Pass Limoges Malin
_
Visiting the BAL, the Limoges Museum of Fine Arts
This museum is located right next to the cathedral, in the historic Cité district. Since 1912, it has occupied the former episcopal palace built at the end of the 18th century, in the heart of the Bishop’s Gardens. The Limoges Museum of Fine Arts combines 4 collections and also retraces 2000 years of the city’s history: an Egyptology section, the history of Limoges since the ancient city of Augustoritum, a fine arts section, and a floor dedicated to ancient and contemporary enamels.
On site, we also discovered a temporary exhibition at the time of our visit “The colors of silver: Dunkirk goldsmithing” (from May 13 to November 5, 2023).
BAL, Limoges Museum of Fine Arts
1 place de l’Evêché 87000 Limoges
museum closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays
Rates: €5 / €3 reduced / free for those under 26 and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month
The top tip: free admission with the Pass Limoges Malin
_
Visiting the Four des Casseaux
The Four des Casseaux museum is managed by an association, Espace Porcelaine, which maintains and preserves the site. It is located in an old district of Limoges near the Vienne and thus contains a round porcelain kiln built in 1900, which is a listed Historical Monument. This kiln, which is currently a unique construction in France, is a so-called “reversed flame” kiln that operated between 1900 and 1957. You can even go inside it during the visit!
Today, the site/museum allows you to discover this magnificent industrial heritage of Limoges Porcelain. It also retraces the adventure of porcelain manufacturing through the lens of techniques and workers’ memory. You can discover it through guided or self-guided tours. In addition, every summer, the association offers a temporary exhibition that highlights Limoges Porcelain. During our visit, this exhibition was titled “Women of Fire”.
The Four des Casseaux
1 rue Victor Duruy 87000 Limoges
open all year from Monday to Saturday
Rates: self-guided tour €4.50 and €2.50 reduced (free admission up to 12 years old) / guided tour (by reservation) €8 and €3 reduced
The top tip: free admission with the Pass Limoges Malin
_
Visiting the Fondation Bernardaud
This porcelain manufacturer, which has existed for 160 years (founded in 1863), now offers the chance to discover the company’s behind-the-scenes through a visit circuit, installed in a part of the workshops, which presents the different stages of porcelain manufacturing, from raw material to finished product, with demonstrations. It was in 1998 that the brand decided to install a museum in its old factory. During the tour, you discover a porcelain factory blending history, know-how, collaboration with contemporary artists, great starred dining tables… In addition, the place offers a temporary exhibition of contemporary ceramics every summer. During our visit, the current exhibition was titled “Transmission 1863/2023”.
The top tip: After your visit, don’t hesitate to take a look at the boutique and the factory store. In the factory store, you can find, in particular, sales on products from previous seasons.
Fondation Bernardaud
27 avenue Albert Thomas, 87000 Limoges
Tour rates: €7 / free under 12Duration: 1h
Tour departures regularly between 10:30 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. between June and September (the rest of the year by reservation)
The top tip: free admission with the Pass Limoges Malin
_
Visiting the Arquié Workshops
This porcelain manufacturer, located on the outskirts of Limoges and in existence since 1996, offers guided tours of its workshops. Here, they create and produce Limoges Porcelain objects for tableware and interior decoration. The tour of the workshops and the factory outlet allows you to discover the different porcelain trades: from mold design to hand decoration, including slip casting or high-fire baking. During this visit, you also discover the drawings on the factory walls, made by graffiti artists who had free rein to decorate the premises.
Ateliers Arquié
230 avenue Baudin 87000 Limoges
Shop open Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Guided tour of the workshops with demonstration on Monday at 11 a.m., Wednesday at 2 p.m. and Friday at 11 a.m. (by reservation)
Rate: €5 per person
The top tip: free visit with the Pass Limoges Malin
_
Taking a tour of the Pont Saint-Etienne
The city of Limoges has no less than 2 medieval bridges from the 12th century: the Pont Saint-Etienne, where we went for a short stroll along the banks, and the Pont Saint-Martial, which is a little further away. It was built to serve the episcopal city, especially for pilgrims who went to pay their respects at the tomb of Saint-Martial on the route to Santiago de Compostela.
_
Looking for an unusual activity in Limoges? Axe throwing at Target
This venue located on the outskirts of Limoges offers many original and interactive attractions as well as areas to have a drink (very nice selection of local craft beers for example / between €4 and €5) and also to grab a bite to eat. For our part, we had a great time with the favorite photographer practicing axe throwing. Honestly, I had already tried this activity in Quebec, but I admit that this time I really got into it and we didn’t see the time pass! After a quick explanation of the safety rules and advice on how to throw the axes, we experimented with this unusual activity, and I think we could have continued for much longer, we were having so much fun!
The venue also offers other activities: laser games; quiz game; gaming zone; axe throwing
Axe Throwing at Target Experience
8 impasse de la Pélisserie, 87000 Limoges
open 7 days a week
Rates: €15 per person for a 1-hour session / student rate at €12
The top tip: free visit with the Pass Limoges Malin
The Frairie des Petits Ventres
This event, which takes place every year on the third Friday of October on the Rue de la Boucherie, reappeared at the beginning of the 1970s and has its origins in the Middle Ages because it commemorates the memory of the Limoges butcher’s guild. It takes place in the Boucherie district, inhabited by these butchers since the 12th century. The Frairie is above all the opportunity to feast on typical Limousin specialties with a real culinary challenge, that is to say to taste all the tripe dishes: black pudding with chestnuts, veal sweetbreads and strawberries, animelles, petits ventres (lamb tripe stuffed with lamb trotters), amourettes (sheep testicles, yes, yes…), andouillette… And of course, we joined in the game with great joy with the favorite photographer.
My advice: to taste the best products and avoid the crowd, go to the Frairie in the morning and/or at lunchtime; in the evening, you will have a lot more people and it will be a more festive atmosphere with more drinking.
This is also a chance to take a tour of the Chapelle Saint-Aurélien, built by the butcher’s guild in 1475, which houses the relics of Saint-Aurélien, the 2nd Bishop of Limoges and patron saint of the Butcher’s brotherhood. It now belongs to the Confrérie de Saint-Aurélien, direct heir to the former butcher’s guild of Limoges. A small peculiarity of this chapel: a Virgin and Child sculpture dating from the 15th century where, according to some interpretations, Christ is eating a kidney (check it out on site to form your own opinion).
The Frairie des Petits Ventres
Friday, October 20, 2023
My top food recommendations in Limoges
As usual, you will find below my selection of great addresses in Limoges (coffee shop, chocolate shop, restaurant…) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These places often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the Limousin.
Local specialties to try: galetou (large thick pancake made from buckwheat flour); cakes and products with chestnuts; meat or potato pies; Limousin beef and the “cul noir” pig, also 100% Limousin; clafoutis, always with cherries, and flognarde made with other fruits; marzipan, a soft cake with almonds.
_
A coffee shop in Limoges? La Fabrique du Café
This wonderful independent address for artisanal coffee roasting also functions as an Espresso Bar and has been offering specialty coffees since 2012. It is the ideal place to taste a coffee on the spot, take the time to enjoy it with a homemade cake (the venue also offers savory items and organizes after-work events). We loved the relaxed atmosphere of the place. And of course, we left with our small bag of coffee roasted on-site to take home. Here you can choose the slow brew method (aeropress, piston, chemex, origami, fetco batch…) you want for your coffee preparation.
La Fabrique du Café
7 place d’Aine 87000 Limoges
On-site prices: espresso €1.80 / double espresso €3.50 / flat white €5 / chemex €7 (for 2/3 people) / piston 1 cup €4.50 / cappuccino €3.70 / latte €4.20
_
Where to buy chocolate in Limoges? Chocolaterie Buissière
During my stay in Limoges, this chocolate shop was recommended to me, so I went to buy myself a small box of chocolates to discover this house. I was not disappointed, and the chocolates were very good. I also really liked the old-fashioned decoration of the storefront and its beautiful wooden display stands.
Chocolaterie Buissière
27 Rue Jean Jaurès, 87000 Limoges
_
Where to go for gourmet shopping in Limoges? At the Central Market Halles
These 19th-century halls, in the Eiffel style, are adorned with a Limoges Porcelain frieze featuring 328 tiles decorating the building. It is the perfect place to taste and buy regional specialties, do your gourmet shopping, or even eat on site because there are stalls and restaurants present in the Halles, which were beautifully renovated in 2019. There are also many shared tables and stand-up counters where you can taste what you buy!
My recommendations: Audace d’un Caprice cheese shop (try the Corrèze tome and local goat cheeses); the tripe products from the Tripes & Cie caterer; the chestnut fondant (a killer and a signature cake awarded by Gault & Millau) that you must absolutely try at Pascalain which is present at the central market halls from Wednesday to Sunday.
Central Market Halles
Place de la Motte, 87000 Limoges
_
Where to grab lunch in the Central Market Halles of Limoges? Aux Saveurs Limousines
This establishment, which has existed since 1947, offers several Limousin specialties in the heart of the Central Market Halles, the covered market in the city center that I told you about just before: galetous (a kind of traditional large pancake) and the establishment offers them with duck or goose rillettes, fresh goat cheese, pork scratchings, or even pepper tapenade – €4.50), potato or meat pies (€8.90), delicious beignets whose dough recipe is a secret, homemade tarts (€8.90), brioches, pastries, craft beers (€4.90 a bottle) including the “bière des Halles”… Here you can either get them to go at the counter or sit at the “Comptoir” or on the terrace if you want to enjoy them on site.
Aux Saveurs Limousines
Les Halles Centrales / Place de la Motte, 87000 Limoges
Open Tuesday to Sunday
_
Where to eat in a historic setting in Limoges? Le Bistrot 1900
This typical and authentic bistro, located on the Place des Bancs, offers a retro setting and takes us on a short trip back in time. The atmosphere is very relaxed, and it quickly fills up at lunchtime, as we noticed that day. Regarding the cuisine, it is simple, traditional, but well-made, and the prices are very reasonable.
We tasted: sausage with mashed potatoes (€12.50); Caesar salad (€13); egg mayonnaise (€5.20).
Le Bistrot 1900
12 Place des Bancs, 87000 Limoges
Prices: full menu €20.50 / dish of the day €11.50 / starter + main or main + dessert €15.90
_
Where to eat a crepe in Limoges? La crêperie de la Cathédrale
This small address is located right next to the cathedral and the museum of fine arts. You will find good savory buckwheat galettes (I tried the Limousine with black pudding, of course), but also sweet crepes and waffles.
La Crêperie de la Cathédrale
3 rue Haute Cité 87000 Limoges
_
Where to have lunch next to the museum of fine arts? La Marelle des Saveurs
This traditional restaurant located not far from the cathedral and the museum of fine arts offers family-style cuisine based on fresh, homemade products with specialties and Limousin meat. The lunch menu is very good value for money if you are looking for an address to eat before or after your visit to the museum of fine arts.
La Marelle des Saveurs
11 rue Haute Cité 87000 Limoges
Open for lunch Monday to Friday and in the evening by reservation
Prices: lunch menu with starter + main at €16.90 / coffee €1.50
_
An Italian restaurant in Limoges? Sainte-Anne Trattoria
This address opened in 2022 is located not far from the Limoges train station and offers authentic, responsible catering, prepared with local products by favoring short circuits, and everything is homemade! It is a French-style trattoria that offers dishes to share (available in medium or large size depending on your appetite) with Italian inspiration but made with local Limousin products. Here you will find pizzas cooked over a wood fire in a custom-made oven from Naples, pasta, antipasti, lasagnas… In short, classics of Latin cuisine reinvented by the restaurant and prepared with Limousin products. The decor is also very nice, and the place offers quite a few colorful furniture pieces made with recycled materials.
To taste: for drinks, the La Bergère craft beer; pizza alla bolognese; for dessert, the homemade Italian ice cream (€5 in medium size).
Restaurant Sainte-Anne
23 avenue de la Libération
Open Monday to Saturday
Prices: antipasti between €6.50 and €28 / pasta between €8 and €17 / pizzas €16 / desserts between €6 and €10
_
A bistronomic address in Limoges? La Place
This small, very pleasant bistronomic address offers very warm service and a short, creative, and very well-made menu. You will also find a very beautiful selection of wine, especially since the owner is a former wine merchant (wines by the glass, count about €5).
We tasted: perfect egg with creamy lingot beans, chanterelles, and chorizo crumble; seared foie gras burger, artichokes with hazelnuts; smoked duck sausage parmentier (the chef’s signature dish) with a camembert and garlic whipped cream; pork spider with a dark chocolate sauce; salted butter caramel tartlet with white chocolate ganache, lemon thyme, and mandarin gel.
Restaurant La Place
20 Place des Bancs, 87000 Limoges
Prices: starters €11 / main courses €21 / desserts €8
The top tip: lunch menu of the day with starter + main + dessert at €23 and starter + main or main + dessert at €20 / Saturday brunch €22
_
Where to have lunch next to the Adrien Dubouché museum? Le Comptoir Pailloux
The pleasant address of Jérémy and Yannis Pailloux serves as a tea room and also a restaurant. For lunch, I tried a bistronomic menu that was short and very well done. A very good address if you want to eat not far from the Adrien Dubouché museum.
I tasted: the crying tiger, sweet potato and coconut milk puree (€19); gourmet coffee (€6).
Le Comptoir Pailloux
20 rue Adrien Dubouché 87000 Limoges
open Tuesday to Saturday
Prices: starter between €8 and €11 / main courses between €16 and €19 / desserts between €6 and €8
_
cocktails & bistronomy in Limoges? Chez Ginette
This neo-bistro offers tasty and trendy cuisine with chef Fabien Boisseau behind the stove. It presents seasonal cuisine made from raw products, and everything is homemade. Meats are primarily sourced from local farms. You will also find a nice selection of creative and balanced cocktails and a pretty selection of wines.
We tasted: Scallops studded with smoked duck breast; poultry stuffed with mushroom mousseline with chestnut gnocchi; 7-hour spiced lamb confit with lentil rougail; AOP Limousin apple infused with gin tonic.
Chez Ginette
3 rue d’Aguesseau 87000 Limoges
Prices: cocktails between €9 and €12 / 3-course set menu at €36 and 5-course tasting menu at €48
_
Where to eat on a Sunday evening in Limoges? Brasserie Le Paris
I arrived in Limoges on a Sunday evening and I admit it was complicated to find a place open on a Sunday evening. We ended up eating at the Brasserie Le Paris (we didn’t feel out of place) with my colleague, and it wasn’t so bad. This address serves as a café, bar, and brasserie with continuous service from 12 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Brasserie Le Paris
7 place Denis Dussoubs 87000 Limoges
Open every day 7 days a week from noon to midnight
Where to stay in Limoges?
As usual, you will find below my selection of great accommodation addresses in Limoges that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer.
_
A hotel in Limoges? Ibis Style Limoges centre
I stayed for a week in this 3-star hotel that opened recently, and I found it particularly pleasant. My room (no. 103) faced the back of the building, and once the AC was turned off (don’t hesitate to ask at the reception if you can’t turn it off completely like me), my room was really super quiet and very functional. The breakfast buffet is also really great. And the hotel also has a restaurant, L’Antiq (open Monday to Saturday), but we didn’t test it.
The little extra: no kettle in the room, but like in the Ibis Style in Le Puy-en-Velay, a “hot drinks” corner freely accessible to hotel guests.
Ibis Style Limoges Centre Hotel
43 avenue de la Révolution 87000 Limoges
Room rates from €71
_
Where to stay bis in Limoges? CHEZ GOGAILLE
This brand offers accommodations in Limoges through its Loges (these are Gogaille hotels, installed in old buildings renovated with style) and also a restaurant. The advantage of these places is that they offer flexible check-in and check-out in total autonomy with a digital key system. You can also leave your luggage in a locker system with codes if you want to go for a stroll in the city before taking your train and after checking out as we did (and it is very practical). And you can also have your breakfast on-site in the morning in the common room. In Limoges, there are 2 Lodges, the Loge Préfecture and the Loge Gambetta where we stayed.
Gogaille / Loge Gambetta
19 boulevard Gambetta
Hotel prices: from €81 per night (breakfast included) and €88 at the Loge Gambetta
Practical questions
I highly recommend the Pass Malin Limoges. It is a free pass (available via an app) that offers immediate discounts on must-see sites like the Adrien Dubouché Museum or the Fondation Bernardaud, as well as in some restaurants.
For good specialty coffee, head over to La Fabrique du Café. And if you’re a chocolate lover, the Chocolaterie Buissière is a local institution not to be missed.
To change from porcelain, I tried axe throwing at Target Experience! It’s located on the outskirts, you can drink local beers, and it’s really a great stress reliever to do with friends.
Head to the Bistrot 1900 right across from the Central Market Halles. The decor is very cozy and you can eat comforting traditional brasserie cuisine.
_
Thanks to the Limoges Tourist Office for organizing this weekend to discover Limoges in addition to my week of work on site, which allowed me to appreciate the atmosphere and quality of life of the city.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit Limoges, and if you also have your own great addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not copyright-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
