The Loir Valley region is located south of Le Mans and 40km north of the Loire. It follows the course of the Loir, a river that is a tributary of the Sarthe and a sub-tributary of the Loire. It also spans four departments (Eure-et-Loir, Loir-et-Cher, Maine-et-Loire, and Sarthe) and two regions (Centre-Val-de-Loire and Pays-de-la-Loire) with a significant influence from Touraine and Anjou. This secret valley is a small, off-the-beaten-path destination with peaceful countryside and rich heritage that have earned it the ‘Pays d’art et d’histoire’ (Land of Art and History) label. It is also a paradise for slow tourism, with over 20 cycling loops. You will see below that we tested two of them with our favorite photographer during our trip in June 2024. The “Loir Valley by Bike” route follows the Loir for 320 km, making it the first cycle route in France to follow a river from its source to its confluence with the Sarthe in Angers. It is also a green paradise with beautiful hiking trails for enthusiasts.
Below, as usual, I offer a small selection of things to do and see if you are coming for a stay in the Loir Valley, along with my pick of great dining and accommodation addresses.
Practical Information
- Note for rillettes lovers (like me!): in Saint-Vincent-du-Lorouër (Place du 8 Mai 1945), you will find a 24/7 automated food dispenser where you can buy delicious Patrick Lehoux Bercé rillettes (2019 Gold Medal – €5.70 for a 200g jar) and other local products if the shop is closed (which is extremely convenient).
- Getting there by train: count about 1 hour from Paris to reach the Le Mans station, which is close to this region.
- Top tip: you can rent bikes at the Loir Valley Tourist Office in La Flèche and La Chartre-sur-le-Loir (€11 for a half-day – €15 for a full day / €18 and €30 for electric bikes).
Loir Valley Tourist Office
4 offices in the region (the office headquarters are located in Vaas) and a promotional van
Table of Contents
What to see and do in La Flèche
La Flèche is the largest town in the area and the sub-prefecture of the Sarthe department, with about 30,000 inhabitants including the suburbs. It is established at a crossing point of the Loir, making it a strategic location since the Middle Ages. The town was actually built on stilts, which is probably the origin of its name. The end of the 16th century and the first half of the 17th century were the golden age of La Flèche, as the city was showered with favors by Henry IV, who spent part of his childhood there.
At the beginning of the 19th century, Napoleon I installed the Military Prytanée in the buildings of the former Jesuit college. The latter is a school for the children of military personnel or senior state officials and is open to visitors every summer if you are interested. We were told it also houses a beautiful library classified as a historical monument. We unfortunately did not have the opportunity to visit the Military Prytanée, so I cannot tell you more. That will be for next time…
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Visit the La Flèche Zoo
This zoo is ranked among the 5 most beautiful zoological parks in France. It brings together nearly 1,500 animals in a 21-hectare green setting that is entirely protected. Many local species also thrive there. It is a very popular site and is a major tourist attraction for the region, ranking as the 3rd most visited site in the Pays de la Loire region with about 350,000 visitors per year. In 1946, it was also the first private zoological park to open in France. During your visit, you will be able to attend shows and fun, educational activities or interact with the park’s zookeepers. The zoo also offers unique experiences, such as the “Zookeeper for a day” activity, which allows you to step into the shoes of a zookeeper for half a day.
The park is open all year round and focuses its activities significantly on education. It also works towards the conservation of biodiversity, the reproduction of endangered species, and the continuous improvement of the well-being of the animals in the park. During our visit, the park was finishing a large 2,000m² African plain to house giraffes, hippos, mandrills, and more.
Good to know: picnics are allowed in the park in designated areas.
La Flèche Zoo
Le Tertre Rouge 72200 La Flèche
Rates: 1-day ticket adult €27.50 / child €20 – 2-day ticket adult €41.50 / child €30
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Safari Lodges & Suites
The Safari Lodges & Suites are a unique hotel concept located in the heart of the La Flèche Zoo. The first individual lodges opened in 2013, and the park now has about twenty of them across 8 different themes. More recently, in 2023, the park opened 12 premium or deluxe Safari Suites (between 35 and 45 m2), each offering a view of two 5,000 m2 territories, recently redesigned to welcome two African icons: lions and cheetahs. The site also offers a magnificent reception area, a restaurant, and a fireside bar with an unobstructed view of the lion enclosure. Moreover, these accommodations and the income they generate for the park allow for reinvestment in animal welfare. I was truly blown away by these high-end accommodations, which are decorated with great care and taste. My only regret is that I couldn’t test them myself to share the experience.
The little extra: guests of the Safari Lodges & Suites have an additional hour of park access, on top of normal visitor hours, in the morning and evening to enjoy the park in a quieter environment.
Safari Suites and individual Lodges at La Flèche Zoo
Stays available all year round
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Take a bike ride between “Loir and Orchards”
The Loir Valley is an important cycling hub as it benefits from a large network of cycling routes. As for us, we did the cycling loop #1 “Loir & Orchards” using electric bikes. This bucolic interlude, which takes you partly along the banks of the Loir on the edge of Anjou, allows you to explore the Cré-sur-Loir marsh, which is a regional nature reserve (RNR) and a sensitive natural area. Also, in Bazouges-sur-le-Loir, do not miss admiring its medieval castle with its Italian-style gardens, as well as the Saint-Aubin Church.
“Loir and Orchards” cycling loop between La Flèche and Bazouges-Cré-sur-Loir
Distance: 20.4 km
Duration: 2h
Level: easy
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A good bakery in La Flèche? Les Saveurs du Lac
This bakery-patisserie, open for 2 years, offers very good products and even a small space to drink coffee and eat some treats on-site.
Les Saveurs du Lac
Open from Monday to Saturday
12 avenue d’Obernkirchen 72200 La Flèche
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Where to eat in La Flèche? Restaurant La Table de Laurène
This warm address located in the center of La Flèche offers traditional, homemade cuisine using mostly local products by chef Laurent Compain. As for the decor, it is minimalist yet in a modern setting. On the wine list, there is a small selection of Anjou and Loire Valley wines if you are an enthusiast.
We tasted: the gratinated Saint-Maure de Touraine; the pork knuckle cooked in beer; the stuffed guinea fowl ballotine (from a local farmer in Sarcé) with a morel cream; and for dessert, the homemade shortbread with white chocolate ganache and organic strawberry soup with honey.
La Table de Laurène
13 Place de la Libération 72200 La Flèche
Price: burgers between €14 and €15 / desserts €8 / wine by the glass between €4.50 and €12
Top tip: gourmet menu at €27.90 with appetizer + main course + dessert / premium gourmet menu at €37 with appetizer + main course + dessert
What to see and do in Le Lude
This small town of character is located on the northern slope of the Loire Valley, still in the Sarthe department. It is especially worth the detour for its magnificent castle, which I tell you about just below!
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Visit the Château du Lude
This castle, a jewel of early French Renaissance architecture, is the most important one in the Loir Valley and is also part of the great Loire Valley castles. It is a private castle, furnished and inhabited by the Count and Countess of Nicolaÿ, whose family has owned it for 270 years. Its origin dates back to the Middle Ages, as it was an ancient fortress of Anjou, a stronghold and important defensive structure during the Hundred Years’ War, erected on the banks of the Loir. During the Renaissance, the castle changed owners and a family close to royal power moved in, transforming it into a pleasure castle. The very beautiful medallions visible on the castle’s exterior facades date from this period. The castle was later sold in the mid-18th century and purchased by a shipowner from the French East India Company. During the French Revolution, the castle was lucky enough to escape looting or destruction. Finally, the building was restored in the 19th century, offering an impressive composite architecture today.
Inside the castle, over 5 levels, one can find state rooms, the Renaissance gallery, the laundry room, medieval kitchens, and a magnificent 16th-century studiolo with decor unique in France. Outside, the castle gardens house a botanical collection, a rose garden, a vegetable garden (its fruits are notably used to make the castle’s jams during the jam festival in July and August), an English-style park along the Loir, a plant labyrinth, stables, and a saddlery. The castle can be visited freely with a booklet or by following a guided tour. The site also offers 2 escape games and a treasure hunt for children.
Château du Lude
Le Château 72800 Le Lude
Open from April 1st to September 30th, and then on weekends in October and during school holidays
Rates: gardens + castle €12 / children (7-15 years) €6; gardens only €8 / child €5
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What to do around Le Lude? Visit the archaeological site of Aubigné-Racan
If you are in the region and have a vehicle, I recommend a short stop at the Gallo-Roman archaeological site of Aubigné-Racan, where the ruins are freely accessible and dotted with explanatory signs for lovers of old stones. This site, known since the beginning of the 18th century, has been studied by archaeologists since 1972. This site, which spans 15 hectares, was originally a Gallo-Roman complex, likely religious in purpose since no trace of habitation has been found.
Aubigné-Racan archaeological site
72800 Aubigné-Racan
Free and open access
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Where to stay in Le Lude? 05 Grande Rue guest house
This guest house located right in the center of Le Lude is housed in a very elegant townhouse. It offers 5 rooms furnished in different styles. Ours was unfortunately quite close to the street, which turned out to be strangely extremely busy in terms of road traffic and quite noisy, I found (but you certainly know that I hate hearing car noise). If this bothers you too, don’t hesitate to ask for a room further from the street. The address also has a garden and a terrace with a pool available to guests. You can relax there freely or even have a drink or eat if you wish.
The little extra: a tea and coffee corner is also available to guests at all hours on the 1st floor, not far from the rooms, which is very convenient.
5 Grande Rue Guest House
5 Grande Rue 72800 Le Lude
Rates: overnight stay starting from €85 for 2 people, breakfast included
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Where to eat in Le Lude? Restaurant Rose & Crown
This English pub is located in the heart of the village of Le Lude, and this is explained by the fact that many English people have settled here. The address offers English beers but also French ones (like Cadette) and classics of British cuisine, such as the famous fish & chips (€15.90) that we tested. We also tasted the chicken shawarma with Greek salad (€15.90) for our main dish. For dessert, we tried the Knickerbocker glory (€7.50), a very English elaborate ice cream sundae, and I admit we struggled to finish it… The reception is warm and friendly, and the decor immerses us in the atmosphere of a real English pub.
Rose & Crown Restaurant
2 place Neuve 72800 Le Lude
Price: appetizers between €6.50 and €9.90 / main courses between €13.50 and €23.90 / desserts between €5.90 and €7.90
What to see and do in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
La Chartre-sur-le-Loir is a small town of about 1,500 inhabitants, located in the Sarthe department once again. Tourism is important there, particularly wine tourism, with winemakers settled in the town and the opening in July 2024 (so after our visit, unfortunately) of a ‘Maison Voyages et Vignes’ (Travels and Vineyards House). The site offers a wine library with local winemakers, a wine dispenser, a kiosk with profiles of the winemakers, and activities. You can also rent bikes there, and there is a small terrace with a bar in the back during the beautiful season, which offers wine tastings.
The village is also recognized for its second-hand dealers, its artists, and its art galleries that attract antique hunters and art lovers (map of antique dealers to be collected at tourist office reception points).
Maison Voyages et Vignes
13, place de la République, La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
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Take a bike ride through the heart of the Jasnières vineyard
This cycling loop, entitled “Jasnières & Coteaux du Loir,” allows you to discover the vineyard of this region, the Jasnières and the Coteaux-du-Loir. It’s an opportunity for me to tell you a little about this wine production in the Sarthe. Here, you mostly find small farms because the vineyard is very fragmented. There is a great diversity of winemaking depending on the winemaker, which ultimately results in very different wines.
These appellations, located about 50km above the Loire, have been AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) since 1937 (it was one of the first AOCs in France for wine) for Jasnières and 1948 for Coteaux du Loir. Regarding grape varieties, Jasnières is produced as a single-varietal using Chenin (a grape variety mainly present in the Loire, with beautiful acidity, and a hallmark of the terroir as it draws from the richness of the soil), and these wines have excellent aging potential. Coteaux du Loir reds are wines made with Pineau d’Aunis (a grape variety that gives wines with peppery notes).
“Jasnières & Coteaux du Loir” cycling loop
Distance: 16.2 km
Duration: 1h30
Level: easy
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Visit the museum of old shops
Grégoire Courtoin is an enthusiast who thrives on objects from the past, which he stages in an incredible way. It took him 10 years to gather an exceptional collection, and he opened his museum in 2023. Do not hesitate to visit him for an extraordinary trip back in time. He will take you into his collector’s house, a back-shop transformed into a museum of old shops. You can discover the objects of an old hardware store (droguerie and brosserie) Charles Peletier, with its bundles of brushes and feather dusters, soap boxes, down to tire repair patches. He has also reconstructed an old hat shop, and the stall of a color merchant, Peltier. This is truly an unmissable visit if you pass through La Chartre-sur-le-Loir.
Museum of old shops
20 rue Nationale 72340 La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Guided tour every Saturday at 6 PM and by appointment
Museum rates: €10 adult / €5 child
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A wine estate in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir? Domaine Gigou
This estate, which has existed since 1974, is one of the oldest in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir. It currently operates 11 hectares of vines, including 8 hectares of Chenin, and produces Jasnières as well as Coteaux du Loir with about 50,000 to 60,000 bottles per year. They also make bubbly using the traditional method in all 3 colors (which accounts for between 5 and 10% of their production). Also noteworthy is their ‘Jus de terre’ vintage, which is made with a blend of plots of young vines (between 20 and 50 years old).
The estate has organic certification, with a significant interest in biodynamics, as its winemakers understand wine as a living product and therefore do not wish to make the same wine every year. They also work with different types of containers: small containers for fairly long fermentations in the natural environment of their cellar; several volumes of barrels; stainless steel to make wines that truly express the terroir; sandstone amphorae (as the wine retains freshness, and this container is quite neutral and gives roundness to the wines); eggs that develop aromatics more due to their shape… After fermentation, the wines are aged for a year and then stored for another year in the bottle (in the cellar with a constant temperature, high humidity, and no light).
The sale of their wines can take place about 2 years after the harvest. Finally, the cellar can be visited upon request, and they are part of the ‘wine tourism cellar‘ charter, which commits them to offering a quality of welcome and educational tasting services. The sales area is a little further away if you want to go and buy some bottles on-site during your visit.
Domaine Gigou
4 rue des caves – La Fontaine 72340 La Chartre sur le Loir
Open daily from 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM and from 1:30 PM to 6:30 PM (except Sunday afternoon)
Bottle prices at the cellar: between €8.50 and €26
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Where to have lunch in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir? B le restaurant
This address is that of chef Julien Bénard, who offers traditional cuisine here via a chalkboard menu based on fresh, local, and seasonal products. The decor made of wood and blue is quite elegant. It is a very good address that I highly recommend if you pass through La Chartre-sur-le-Loir.
We tasted: crispy salmon, prawns, and basil (€10); melon tartare, feta, tomato, cucumber sorbet (€10); French toast with caramel ice cream (€11); rum baba with pineapple tartare (€10).
B Le Restaurant
1 Place de la république 72340 La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Price: appetizers between €10 and €14 / main courses between €19 and €21 / desserts between €9 and €11 / à la carte menu with appetizer + main course + cheese or dessert €36 / wine by the glass between €3.50 and €5.50
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Where to dine in a historic place in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir? Le Relais de Ronsard at the Hôtel de France
This restaurant, housed in the Hôtel de France, offers seasonal dishes and local specialties made with seasonal products by the establishment’s young chef. This hotel, built at the beginning of the 20th century by the Pasteau family, has a lovely Art Deco style facade. It owes its fame to the Aston Martin racing team, which made it its headquarters during the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in the 1960s. The bistro room where we dined is decorated with photos and autographs of famous drivers who stayed at the hotel.
Must try: pan-seared foie gras escalope with a vegetable brunoise; salmon gravlax with beetroot; monkfish medallion with saffron pistils and sweet potato quenelles; old-style glazed veal sweetbreads with pan-seared ceps; fresh fruit sabayon with Grand Marnier; crispy citrus pastry, mandarin and coriander sauce.
Relais de Ronsard Restaurant at the Hôtel de France
20 Place de la République 72340 La Chartre sur le Loir
Price: Ronsard menu with appetizer + main course + dessert €44 / wine by the glass between €5 and €6
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Where to eat in the surroundings of La Chartre-sur-le-Loir? Les mères cocottes
This regional restaurant offers traditional, homemade, and seasonal cuisine that is very comforting and tasty, in a warm and family setting. They work closely with local producers. The site also offers a fine grocery store with a small selection of local products. The little extra: on sunny days, the address has a charming shaded terrace.
We tasted: the ‘Cocotte’ plate as an appetizer with homemade gazpacho, a mushroom velouté, a small fresh salad, and homemade chicken liver terrine; for the main course, a duck leg confit in local apple juice and thyme, or pork tenderloin with tarragon cream; for dessert, a gourmet plate.
Les Mères Cocottes
9 rue Alexis de Tocqueville 72340 Beaumont-sur-Dême
Open Thursday lunch, Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday lunch and dinner, and Sunday lunch
Price: single menu with appetizer €7, main course €18, and dessert or cheese €7 / wine by the glass between €3.50 and €6.50
What to see and do in Poncé-sur-Loir?
This small town, still in the Sarthe, has been integrated since 2017 into the municipality of Loir-en-Vallée. It is part of the historic province of Maine.
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Visit the castle and gardens of Poncé
This castle, built during the Renaissance in the spirit of the Loire Valley castles, is located on the edge of the Vendômois, Touraine, and Maine regions. It is nestled in a green setting, and its gardens are labeled ‘Remarkable Garden‘ and are also classified as historical monuments. They offer a poetic and charming setting. Don’t miss seeing the venerable, centuries-old plane tree behind the hornbeam labyrinth. On the other side, a 19th-century neo-Gothic wall, the Terrace Caroline, backed by a tuffeau cliff, overlooks an Italian-style garden with an intimate atmosphere. Finally, also take a tour in the beautiful 18th-century dovecote, built in tuffeau, with its monumental ladder system. It is quite impressive with its 20 meters of height and 7 meters of interior diameter, and it could accommodate up to about 8,000 pigeons.
Regarding the castle, only the square tower is from the Renaissance period and it houses a very interesting Italian-style caisson staircase, built in white tuffeau stone, dating from 1542. It features iconography typical of the Renaissance, and its entirely carved vaults bring together more than 160 allegorical, mythological, heraldic, and ornamental motifs. The current owner of the castle is a painter who grew up in the region. He bought the castle during the autumn of 2010. In addition to the castle tour (which has been open to the public since the 50s/60s), he offers contemporary art exhibitions in the outbuilding built in the 18th century.
Château de Poncé-sur-le-Loir
8 rue des Coteaux, Poncé-sur-le-Loir 72340 Loir-en-Vallée
Open to individuals from late April to late September
Rates: €6.50 / reduced €4.50 / free for children under 12
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Visit the caves of Domaine Lelais
This family-run winery is located on the route de Poncé in the south of the Sarthe. It has vines a little further in the countryside, not far from the Loir. In total, its vineyard, managed through sustainable agriculture, covers 20 hectares, of which 15 hectares produce white wine in the Jasnières appellation. It also produces Coteaux du Loir red and rosé.
The estate also offers guided tours of its troglodyte cellar, which is truly worth a detour! Indeed, the estate has a cellar installed in an old tuffeau quarry with 45 km of troglodytic galleries that date back to the 16th century. This quarry was also used to build the surrounding castles. These galleries were later used to grow mushrooms. Since the 1920s/1930s, winemakers have installed the Museum of Bacchus in these galleries, which they have been showing to visitors since that era.
Domaine Lelais
41 route de Poncé 72340 Ruillé-sur-Loir
Guided tour rate for the Bacchus cellar (by reservation): €4 for adults (visit duration 1h15)
Wine prices: bottles between €6.50 and €17
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Where to stay in Poncé-sur-Loir? La Poncé secrète
This guest house is located in the south of the Sarthe and in the heart of the village of Poncé, with a view of the outbuildings and the dovecote of the Poncé castle that I mentioned earlier. The hostess has been providing 3 rooms for her guests for 10 years, with a total capacity of 6 people. We were in a small, individual, and independent house, very peaceful and quiet at the back of the island. We felt very comfortable there. In the morning, breakfast is served in another small house, and during the beautiful season, it is also possible to take it outside (which we did), which is particularly pleasant.
La Poncé secrète
2 rue des coteaux 72340 Poncé-sur-le-Loir
Rates: room €80 per night for 2 people (€70 for 1 person)
What to do and see in Montval-sur-Loir?
This town, located in the Sarthe department, hosts a large market on Saturday mornings. For foodies, we were also recommended a good place to buy rillettes: the Boucherie de la Place.
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The Cabinet of Curiosities at the Loir Valley Tourist Office
The Montval-sur-Loir Tourist Office, housed in a beautiful 19th-century house, has offered a cabinet of curiosities to discover since 2024. This gallery presents objects belonging to the city and constituting the collections of an old museum now closed. There are rare seashells, regional paintings, stuffed animals, weapons, archaeological objects… The exhibitions and collections are set to rotate and renew.
Cabinet of Curiosities at the Montval-sur-Loir Tourist Office
4 avenue Jean Jaurès 72500 Montval-sur-Loir
Free access
The Bercé Forest
The Bercé State Forest, labeled ‘Forêt d’Exception’ (Forest of Exception), is renowned for the quality of its oaks, which are large and majestic. Despite its great age, this former royal forest has escaped deforestation and spans over 5,000 hectares around Jupilles, its heartland capital. Do not miss visiting the Futaie des Clos, which is a place with an exceptional set of tree trunks, as it is one of the most beautiful high forests in Europe. You can notably discover the story of the Boppe oak. Also take the interpretive trail to discover the riches of this forest. Stop at the Fontaine de l’Ermitière and the Fontaine de la Coudre, two iconic places in the Bercé Forest. A beautiful way to recharge your batteries and fully enjoy the surrounding nature.
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Visit the Bercé Forest interpretive center: Carnuta
In the village of Jupilles, take a tour of Carnuta, an interpretive center for the Bercé Forest. You will find a fun temporary exhibition on insects, as well as an area dedicated to the Bercé Forest on the first floor with a permanent exhibition. The scenography is very well done, fun, and interactive, and will be suitable for all ages. Visiting this space also allows you to prepare for your future forest outings! You will discover the local fauna and flora, forestry, and forest professions.
Carnuta
House of Man and the Forest
2 rue du Bourg Ancien 72500 Jupilles
Rates: €6 / reduced €3.50 / free – 7 years old
Thanks to the Loir Valley Tourist Office, to Véronique for her conviviality, and to the Sylvie Blin agency for the organization of this great stay to discover the Loir Valley.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit the Loir Valley, and if you too have your favorite addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use
