I discovered the city of Angers for the first time in 2018, after my two trips along the Loire. It is a pleasant, very green city, and this one-day getaway in the Angevin city really made me want to come back to discover even more! Which happened in 2024 when I passed through again during my journey in the Rivières de l’Ouest region. The city is located in Anjou in the Pays de la Loire region. Its banks stretch around the Maine river and its historic heart offers pretty half-timbered houses and charming medieval alleys. We also come here to admire its incredible castle and its unique Apocalypse Tapestry. Another fun fact I was totally unaware of: the capital of Anjou is the stronghold of Cointreau (yes, really!)… And to think I didn’t even know it was a French product (I felt a bit ashamed)…
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Practical info for visiting Angers
How to get to Angers from Paris?
From Paris, it is really very simple and affordable to get to Angers by train with the SNCF. If you are in a hurry, you can take a TGV (only 1h30/1h45 from Montparnasse station), but it is obviously more expensive than the solution I am proposing below.
The Tip: You can take an Intercités 100% Eco train (meaning tickets are sold 100% online and therefore offer attractive rates) from Paris Austerlitz Station (approx. 3h journey). Plus, the cherry on top, thanks to a partnership between Intercités and the CMN (Centre for National Monuments), upon presentation of your train ticket, you benefit from a half-price reduction on the entry fee to the Château d’Angers (see more below in the article). For us, this little Intercités trip was also an opportunity to discover the book by Luc Fournier “Patrimoine Ferroviaire” (Railway Heritage), written in collaboration between the Editions du Patrimoine and the SNCF.
What to see and do in Angers?
As usual, I offer you a small selection of ideas for outings, visits, in short, things to do (generally everything is accessible on foot) to discover this beautiful city of Angers. Below is a panel of rather cultural activities that I managed to do in just one day of exploring the city.
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Visit the Fine Arts Museum of Angers
Housed in the logis Barrault mansion (dating from the 15th century), the collections of this museum present the history of the city of Angers and the various artistic movements from the 14th century to the present day. In total, there are more than 3,000 m² of permanent exhibition and very regular temporary exhibitions.
Fine Arts Museum of Angers
14, rue du musée, 49100 Angers
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm
Rates: €6 / €3 half-price / free for under 26s
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Visit the David d’Angers Gallery
The Toussaint Abbey (which dates back to the 13th century) now houses the works of the sculptor David d’Angers (1788-1856) who was a native of the city: monumental statues, plaster models, busts, and medallions are presented in this space. I highly recommend visiting this gallery, first to admire the artist’s works, but also to discover the sublime architecture of this former place of worship, a place full of charm.
The David d’Angers Gallery
33 rue Toussaint, 49100 Angers
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm
Rates: €4 / €2 half-price / free for under 26s
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See the Apocalypse Tapestry at the Château d’Angers
Woven between 1373 and 1382, the Apocalypse Tapestry is 103 meters long (it was even longer at the time and a portion may be lost forever…), making it the largest medieval woven work in the world produced in the 14th century. Currently exhibited at the Château d’Angers (managed by the Centre for National Monuments), this tapestry is truly the masterpiece of the city and it is obviously a must-see if you pass through the Angevin city! I had obviously already heard of this work, but I must admit that seeing it in reality really exceeded my expectations, it is an impressive achievement and its incredible history is also worth the detour.
Visiting the tapestry is also an opportunity to admire the site and the 17 towers of the Château d’Angers, which is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in France! Built in the 13th century, it overlooks the Maine river and the city. The royal dwelling and the gardens commissioned by King René add a lot of elegance to the whole.
When I went there in 2018, I was able to see The Cathedral of Thread, a contemporary installation by artist Olivier Roller set up in the castle chapel, in partnership with the Mobilier National. Do not miss a quick visit to the bookstore-boutique of the castle, which offers items from the CMN but also handicrafts or local products (such as the Quernon d’ardoise, a delicacy of nougatine with almonds and hazelnuts; the foodie in me is talking!).
Château d’Angers
2, promenade du bout du monde, 49100 Angers
Rates: €9 / reduced €7 / free for under 26s, job seekers and for
all the 1st Sunday of each month from November to March
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Visit the Jean-Lurçat Museum
The Saint-Jean Hospital has housed Jean Lurçat‘s (1957-1966) “The Song of the World” since 1967, a contemporary echo to the Apocalypse Tapestry. Moreover, the museum’s collections also gather works of textile art from the 50s to the present day. I was very happy to visit this museum because I already knew Jean Lurçat‘s work a little through an exhibition I had seen in Paris at the Gobelins Gallery in 2016. And then, having worked at the Gobelins for a few years now, I ended up taking a little more interest in the fascinating art of tapestry…
If you don’t know it, it’s a beautiful discovery to make, and furthermore, if you have seen the Apocalypse Tapestry, it is interesting to compare it to Jean Lurçat‘s vision. I also really liked the part of the museum that presents contemporary textile works, including those by artist Josep Grau-Garriga.
A little extra: at the back of the vaulted room presenting the Apocalypse Tapestry by Jean Lurçat, there is a small, absolutely charming covered gallery.
Jean-Lurçat Museum and Contemporary Tapestry
4 boulevard Arago, 49100 Angers
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm
Rates: €6 / €3 half-price / free for under 26s
My recommendations in Angers
Here are the few good addresses I was able to discover in Angers during these two getaways to the Angevin city in 2018 and 2024. In any case, this will give you restaurant addresses for eating, gourmet shop addresses, and also a hotel address in Angers. For your gourmet shopping, I recommend in particular stocking up at a few good addresses in the city:
- The La Sablésienne shop (12 rue Saint Aubin) where you will find the genuine shortbreads from this artisanal biscuit factory in Sablé sur Sarthe, which has existed since 1962.
- The Caramandes (a thin triangular sheet of caramelized almond slivers with salted butter and covered in chocolate) from Benoit Chocolat, a family of master chocolatiers among the 100 best in France, which has existed since 1975.
- The Quernon d’Ardoise, the specialty of the city of Angers, by the Maison du Quernon.
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La Maison Angers Restaurant
Tested in 2024
La Maison Angers
20 Quai des Carmes, 49100 Angers
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Where to have dinner in an Art Deco setting in Angers? Restaurant Odorico
This restaurant is located in the heart of the Hôtel d’Anjou, which I will talk about a little further down. Its name pays tribute to the famous ceramist Odorico, a native of Rennes, who created the decor of the place in 1928. On the plates, you will find cuisine with Italian notes, and we tested the 4 or 5-course blind menu in the evening during our meal. The menu changes every month.
We tasted: green asparagus and wild garlic sauce; fish, cod poached in milk, creamy spinach, samphire, and chard leaf; meat, pork loin cooked at low temperature, with green peas and turnips; for dessert, rhubarb compote and strawberry tartare and strawberry sorbet.
Tested in 2024
Restaurant Odorico / Hôtel d’Anjou Angers
2 Place de Lorraine, 49100 Angers
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The Osé Restaurant (closed)
This beautiful place is the ideal spot to have lunch based on fresh and local products, and just a stone’s throw from the Château d’Angers, too (which is quite practical). This restaurant, which also favors organic food, is run by a couple of enthusiasts, Catherine and Bernard. You can go there with your eyes closed, you won’t be disappointed!
Tasted this lunch (in photos):
Tested in 2018
Restaurant Osé
19 Rue Toussaint, 49000 Angers
Price: lunch set menu appetizer + main course or main course + dessert at €19 on weekdays and €20 on Saturday
Edit May 5, 2024: this address is unfortunately permanently closed now!
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The One Way tea room (closed)
Here again is a very beautiful place with trendy and relaxed decor (including this superb bench signed Snowbench that you see in the photo on the right), to go have a drink or a little cup of tea (my passion, you know!). A place with a warm atmosphere just how I like them!
Tested in 2018
One Way
16 Rue des Lices, 49100 Angers
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Rates: count about €4 for a small teapot for one personEdit May 5, 2024: this address is unfortunately permanently closed now!
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Where to stay in Angers? Hôtel d’Anjou
This 4-star hotel, now managed by the Océania group, is located in the heart of Angers, a 10-minute walk from the Angers train station, in a historic building from 1857 that is emblematic of the city. We were in room 315, which overlooks the boulevard du Maréchal Foch, which is very noisy, but fortunately the hotel has very good double glazing. I loved the magnificent Art Deco setting of the establishment. The address also has a very good gourmet restaurant that we also tested during our stay (see a little higher up in the article).
Hôtel d’Anjou
1 boulevard du Maréchal Foch, 49100 Angers
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Thanks to the CMN, Intercités, and the Angers Loire Métropole Tourist Office for this invitation and welcome!
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover Angers, and if you too have your good addresses and your tips for this city, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan and Nicolas Diolez
Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
