In this article, I invite you on a getaway just 1.5 hours from Paris, at the gates of the Perche region! This time, we headed towards Eure-et-Loir, a department I’m getting to know well and appreciate for its proximity to the capital. We set down our bags in Pontgouin with my favorite photographer in November 2025, very close to Chartres, to discover an exceptional place that truly stole our hearts: the Château de la Rivière. This stay was focused on gastronomy and heritage, two themes we hold dear, as you know. Below, as usual, I share our experience of living like castle owners for a night, our encounters with local artisans, and all the practical information to help you organize your own stay at the castle.
Practical Information
- Getting there by train from Paris: Take the TER from Paris Montparnasse station to Pontgouin station (allow about 1.5 hours for the journey) / The little plus = The station is located literally at the gates of the castle, which is very convenient if you come without a car.
Table of Contents
Staying at the Château de la Rivière
The history of this place is, above all, the story of a meeting between sleeping heritage and a passionate couple, Edouard de Vitry and Alice de Parseval. In 2009, Edouard, driven by a love for monument restoration, began a quest that would last 10 years before finding this rare gem. When he bought the castle, it was empty. With patience, they refurnished everything, sourcing 80% of the furniture at auctions to restore a soul to this residence. What was initially meant to be a secondary home project became, over the years, their primary residence. The estate, a preserved ensemble close to Paris, initially covered 40 hectares. Today, thanks to the tenacity of the owners, who recovered surrounding plots, the domain covers almost 200 hectares, including 140 hectares of wild nature untouched by roads. During the renovation, they even rediscovered a 17th-century garden!
But let’s return to the history of the castle, which showcases classic Louis XIII style architecture. Built between 1617 and 1643 by Étienne II d’Aligre, then Chancellor of France, and completed by his son, the domain is distinguished by its elegant moats and vast network of canals. This majestic brick and stone residence remained the cradle of the d’Aligre family for nearly three centuries, preserving its heritage until the lineage ended in 1926 (apart from a brief period during the Revolution). After housing a school for young girls during the Second World War, the castle was acquired in 1954 by a family of film producers and distributors, who held the place for about fifty years before Edouard de Vitry purchased it in 2009.
The castle offers an ideal setting for a romantic stay all year round, with the charm of the guest rooms, a gourmet dining proposal, and numerous activities available on-site (tennis, cycling or walking, billiards, swimming pool, sauna, and solarium for sunny days between April and September). The welcome is warm, thanks in particular to the owners’ two dogs (two adorable sisters) who are part of the life of the place. There is no shortage of projects for Edouard and Alice: after the bedrooms, the idea is to expand the offer with gîtes (notably in the mill) and a reception hall. A team of 8 people works full-time to bring this magical place to life.
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The Guest Rooms
The castle now offers 5 large guest rooms and attracts an extremely varied clientele: the King’s room (named as such because, according to legend, Louis XIV slept there during a stay at the castle); the Chancellor’s room in homage to Chancellor d’Aligre; the Marquis’s room (where we stayed); the Ambassador’s room and its very 17th-century atmosphere; and the Musketeers’ room (ideal for a family as it can accommodate up to 4 people).
We were lucky enough to sleep in the beautiful Marquis room, located on the private side of the castle, a true immersion in the life of a castle owner. I really loved the 18th-century atmosphere of the decor and furnishings of this room, in which we felt very comfortable. The room is also a through-room, offering a view of the park on one side and the main courtyard on the other. We also particularly enjoyed its spacious bathroom and large bathtub.
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Breakfast
The breakfast buffet is included in the price of the room and is served in the d’Aligre lounge. Everything is homemade by chef Carole Pagès using fresh, 90% local products. And as an ambassador of “Terre d’Eure-et-Loire”, the local brand, the castle is committed to highlighting local producers and short supply chains. Plus, everything is absolutely delicious; we really enjoyed it.
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A Timeless Gastronomic Experience
The Table of Chef Carole Pagès
In this sumptuous setting, the experience would not be complete without a candlelight dinner in the magnificent d’Aligre Lounge. This is where Chef Carole Pagès works her magic to offer a high-level gourmet dinner. The concept? A blind 4-course menu. You simply state your allergies, intolerances, and foods you don’t wish to eat, and the magic happens. Carole Pagès can do it all: from savory dishes to pastries, to candies, she also prepares everything for breakfast. Her dishes offer a perfect balance of carefully selected ingredients, working with ultra-seasonality and local producers. A little moment of gastronomic happiness that I highly recommend you treat yourself to if you spend a night (or more) at the castle!
The gourmet menu we enjoyed that evening:
- To start, a beet amuse-bouche in 4 textures
- For the starter, a radish ravioli with a smoked tuna condiment and tangy vinaigrette, accompanied by a medallion of red tuna and swordfish
- For the main course, a haunch of venison (hunted by the host himself) served with foie gras, a variation of salsify, and a “grand veneur” sauce, accompanied by a venison ravioli
- A pre-dessert with grapefruit granita, yuzu cream, candied Satsuma mandarin, and grand cru sake
- To finish on a sweet note, a Mont-Blanc style dessert revisited with chestnut, blackcurrant, chestnut mousse, candied chestnut bits, chestnut flour crumble, vanilla ganache, and a touch of grilled chestnut bark oil, accompanied by a buckwheat flaky brioche
Château de la Rivière
D24, 28190 Pontgouin
Guest room rates: between €270 and €360 depending on the room and season (breakfast included)
Candlelight dinner rates: 4-course gourmet menu at €95 per person (drinks extra)
Guided tour of the castle by the owners: free for guest room guests
What to see and do around and in the vicinity of the Château
The Château de la Rivière is an ideal starting point to explore the treasures of Eure-et-Loir. Take advantage of your stay at the castle to explore the surroundings which are full of gems, whether for food lovers or craft enthusiasts.
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Stroll through the castle park
The domain, which is located on the edge of the Eure, offers a preserved natural setting perfect for pleasant walks in the surroundings of the castle. It covers more than 140 hectares and is composed of several spaces, woods, meadows, laid-out gardens, and crops. The majority of the park is listed in the supplementary inventory of historical monuments, just like the castle itself. Whatever the season, it’s a very beautiful walk to take in a preserved setting.
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Discover the Domaine de Ligneronnes
Located very close to the Château de la Rivière, this domain is run by Anna Stépanoff, the Belarusian-born vegetarian owner who took over the place about 2 and a half years ago. It is both an organic market garden producer and a farm school offering production and training for farmers (particularly for people in career transition). The specialty here? Vegetable gastronomy in jars. They have been processing their products for less than a year and already offer about ten references, showing how one can work with vegetables in a creative and gourmet way. If you pass by in late August or early September, don’t miss the Perche melon! An on-site shop is open in season to stock up on good things.
Domaine de Ligneronnes
Lieu-dit Ligneronnes, 28190 Pontgouin
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Visiting Chartres
One of the essential stages of this stay remains, of course, the visit to Chartres, located about thirty minutes away. I recommend you take the time to stroll through the picturesque alleys of its old town on the banks of the Eure, before letting yourself be dazzled by its majestic Notre-Dame Cathedral: an absolute jewel of Gothic art listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, world-famous for its exceptional stained glass windows. To know what to see and do in Chartres, I refer you to my complete city guide for the city.
=> See my full article on Chartres
A big thank you to the owners of the Château de la Rivière for their warm welcome during this press trip focused on gastronomy and heritage, and to Mathilde from RP Digital for this beautiful invitation.
I hope this discovery has made you want to visit Eure-et-Loir, and if you also have your own favorite addresses in the area, feel free to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
