Home EuropeVisiting Nice: what to do? My city guide and favorite spots

Visiting Nice: what to do? My city guide and favorite spots

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

The Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (PACA)** region isn’t the one I know best, I must admit. However, in 2022, I decided to spend a little over two weeks there in October, including a full week dedicated to visiting Nice. It was the perfect opportunity to discover this iconic city and put together a complete city guide for the blog. I have since updated this article following my solo trip in November 2023 to add new recommendations (and I continue to update it regularly so it stays current). Ideally nestled in the Alpes-Maritimes department, along the Mediterranean Sea, the city of Nice is proudly the capital of the Côte d’Azur and a top destination on the French Riviera.

Upon my arrival, I was particularly struck by the elegance of the Niçois architecture and the richness of its heritage, between its sumptuous Belle Époque villas, its legendary luxury hotels, and its famous “palaces.” What is there to do in Nice? You will see that it is a vibrant metropolis, rich in urban, cultural, and gastronomic discoveries. Artists were certainly not mistaken, fascinated by its light: Matisse, Chagall, Renoir, Dufy, Soutine, and even Cocteau all made it their home! With its legendary Promenade des Anglais and its 7 km of beaches, Nice is undeniably the queen of the seaside… It is now even inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list under the title “Nice, Winter Resort Town of the Riviera.” A wonderful recognition for this cosmopolitan city between sea and mountains, shaped by and for tourism since the 18th century.

Hôtel Negresco in Nice with palm trees and blue sky.

Table of Contents

Practical Information for Nice

How to get to Nice from Paris?

  • By train, expect between 5.5 and 6 hours from Paris, which is quite long, but it is also pleasant because the last part of the journey between Marseille and Nice runs along the coastline and offers a very attractive glimpse of the seaside.
  • By plane with Easyjet (be aware that now even carry-on bags are chargeable with the low-cost airline) in only 1.5 hours of flight (from Orly or Charles de Gaulle) to Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. Then, from Nice airport, you can take the L2 tram to easily reach the city center (€1.50 ticket).
Panoramic view of the Bay of Angels in Nice at sunset.

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My tip for visiting Nice: the French Riviera Pass

This CityCard gives access to over 60 sites and activities in Nice and the surrounding area (I have indicated in the article the visits and activities we did with the card). There is also a paid option that gives unlimited access to public transport on the Lignes d’Azur network. This is very practical, because even if the city center is very easy to walk around, some places are further away from the center. If you come in the nice weather, the card also allows you to rent a bike for a day.

A quick summary of what you get access to with the card:

  • free access to the biggest sites on the Côte d’Azur (Nice, Antibes, Beaulieu, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Biot, Cannes, Monaco, Saint-Laurent-du-Var, Roure, Villefranche-sur-Mer…)
  • access to the “Nice, le Grand tour” tourist bus
  • special offers at several establishments (shops, leisure activities, restaurants…)
  • As an extra, the transport pass for €4/day

French Riviera Pass

Card for 24h at €30 / 48h at €45 or 72h at €65

Link to the tourist office website to learn more and buy the card


What to see, what to do in Nice

Nice is the 5th largest city in France and yet it has only been French since 1860, because before that date, it was under the protection of Savoy. This city open to the sea also has an exceptional microclimate with 300 days of sunshine per year (it makes you dream) and we were able to enjoy it during our visit to Nice in October, a season when the weather is still very beautiful on the Côte d’Azur.

The heart of the city of Nice has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since July 2021. And I must say that when you walk around the city, you easily understand why. This 522-hectare urban ensemble was shaped from the mid-18th century to the 20th century by winter tourism. While strolling in the old town of Nice, you will see buildings with Piedmontese, Genoese, or even Florentine tones and colors, which remind us of the proximity to Italy.

To see: The numerous museums, the architectural heritage, the old town, the colorful markets, the gardens and green spaces, the viewpoints, and the famous Promenade des Anglais. The latter gives all its charm to the city with luxurious palaces and prestigious buildings on one side and the sea and numerous public and private beaches on the other. We owe this promenade to an Englishman, the Reverend Lewis Way, who had it built at his own expense in 1820.

Getting around Nice: The public transport service of the city and its surroundings, Lignes d’Azur, is quite well developed. You can (and should) walk around Nice to best experience the city, but it is quite vast and you risk having sore feet at the end of the day. Also good to know, during the summer, Lignes d’Azur offers hikers a bus network specifically designed for mountain excursions departing from Nice, with a morning departure and an evening return (single ticket at €5).

A great cultural tip for locals: the Nice Museum Pass is offered to all residents of Nice and the municipalities of the Nice Côte d’Azur Metropolis, giving you free access to all the city’s municipal museums!

Pebble beach in Nice at dusk with terrace and white parasols.

Nice Côte d’Azur Metropolitan Tourist Office

5 promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice

SNCF Train Station – Avenue Thiers

Link to the office’s website

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Visit the Marc Chagall National Museum

This museum houses the largest public collection of Marc Chagall’s works. Inaugurated by the artist on his birthday, July 7, 1973 (the museum is actually celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2023), the museum—or rather the home Chagall wanted to house his Biblical Message cycle—still carries a powerful universal message today.

Until January 9, 2023, you could also discover a temporary exhibition called “Marc Chagall in limited editions”. In 2020 and 2021, the museum’s collection was enriched with seven rare bibliophilic works, donated by Bella and Meret Meyer, Marc Chagall’s granddaughters. To honor this gift, the exhibition celebrated the intimate and lasting relationship Chagall maintained with writing and books, which led to the creation of more than one hundred illustrated original limited-edition works.

Painting by Marc Chagall at the National Museum in Nice: Jacob wrestling with the angel.

Marc Chagall National Museum

Avenue Docteur Ménard, 06000 Nice

museum closed on Tuesdays

Admission: 8 € (10 € during temporary exhibitions) / reduced 6 € (8 € during temporary exhibitions) / free admission for those under 26 and for everyone on the 1st Sunday of each month

Free with the French Riviera Pass

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Palais Lascaris

This exceptional residence of the Nice civil baroque, built in the 17th century by a wealthy family, boasts a magnificent monumental staircase adorned with vaulted ceilings and frescoes, and also houses a museum with a remarkable collection of ancient musical instruments. This collection comes from the bequest of Antoine Gautier, a wealthy notable from Nice and enlightened amateur who left his remarkable collection, assembled in the 19th century, to the city of Nice in 1904. This collection is supplemented by the deposit from the Institut de France of the musical instrument collection of Gisèle Tissier-Grandpierre, an internationally renowned harpist.

I highly recommend visiting this place located in the heart of the old town of Nice, as its architecture is beautiful and the collection it contains is also well worth a detour! In any case, it was one of our favorites when we visited Nice.

Ornate interior of the Palais Lascaris in Nice with wall hangings, gilding and ancient presses.

Palais Lascaris

15, rue Droite 06000 Nice

Museum closed on Tuesdays

Admission: 5 € / free for job seekers and students

Free with the French Riviera Pass

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Climb to the top of the Saint-François Tower

This 50-meter-high tower dominates Nice and offers an exceptional 360° view of the city. It is therefore a very good option to get a little height and admire the city from above. However, be careful, I warn you, you will have to climb the 288 steps of the building to get to the top and get your reward!

Panoramic view of Nice from the Saint-François Tower with a person observing the city.

Saint-François Tower

2-3 Rle Saint-André, 06300 Nice

open Saturdays and Sundays only, and also Fridays in July and August

Admission: 6.10 € / reduced 3 € / free for under 18s

Free with the French Riviera Pass

More information on the Tower and the tour

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Visit the Cimiez Archaeology Museum

Founded by Augustus in 14 BC, Cemenelum (Nice) was the capital of the province of the Alpes-Maritimes from the 1st to the 4th century. This site archaeology museum allows you to discover the remains of this ancient Roman city. It is located on the Cimiez hill and offers a building with a permanent exhibition that talks about the life of Cemenelum and the province of the Alpes maritimae, through numerous objects discovered during archaeological excavations from 1950 to 1969 in the site acquired by the Nice municipality, but also beyond. In addition, the site also presents an archaeological site with the remains of three complete thermal complexes (1st to 3rd century), streets, a residential area with its shops, as well as an amphitheater.

Cimiez Archaeology Museum

160 avenue des arènes de Cimiez

museum closed on Tuesdays

Admission: 5 € / free for under 18s, students, job seekers and social minimum benefit recipients

Free with the French Riviera Pass

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Terra Amata Prehistory Museum

This museum offers a chance to discover the seasonal campsite of elephant hunters dating back 400,000 years, where the first traces of fire domestication in the world were unearthed, making it a site of global importance. The museum is actually located on the very spot of the archaeological excavations. I personally found this museum/site very well-made because you learn a lot about the results of the archaeological excavations that took place here. If you are interested in this kind of topic, I recommend you go and take a look.

Terra Amata Prehistory Museum

25 boulevard Carnot

museum closed on Tuesdays

Admission: 5 € / free for under 18s, students, job seekers and social minimum benefit recipients

Free with the French Riviera Pass

link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Mamac, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Nice

This city’s museum of modern and contemporary art is housed in a building with modern architecture. It has an extensive permanent collection that traces the history of European and American avant-garde movements since the early 1960s. It also offers a very interesting focus on Yves Klein and Niki de Saint Phalle, as these two artists made significant donations to the museum. We really enjoyed visiting this museum, as much for the collections it holds as for discovering the building’s architecture.

Exterior of MAMAC, Nice's Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.
Interior of MAMAC in Nice: modern art exhibition with a blue abstract work.

Mamac

Place Yves Klein

museum closed on Mondays

Admission: 10 € / free for under-18s, students, job seekers and welfare recipients

Free with the French Riviera Pass

Link to the museum’s website

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Visiting the Museum of Fine Arts of Nice

This museum of fine arts in the city of Nice has been housed since 1928 in the princely Villa Kotchoubey-Thomson, which is located on the Baumettes hill, and it presents collections of paintings and sculptures covering several centuries of history: Van Loo, Fragonard, Dufy, Chéret, Rodin, Carpeaux… Its history truly begins in 1860 with the annexation of Nice by France and the shipment of works from the Louvre in 1861 to spur the formation of a museum. Subsequently, the city of Nice has enriched its collections with acquisitions and also through a very large number of donations and bequests from private individuals.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice Jules Chéret neoclassical facade.

Musée des beaux-arts de Nice

33 avenue des Baumettes

museum closed on Mondays

Admission: 10 € / 6.50 € reduced / free for under-18s, job seekers, welfare recipients, and students

Free with the French Riviera Pass

Link to the museum’s website

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This museum is housed in the Villa des Arènes, located next to the Cimiez archaeological site, on the heights of Nice (you can take bus no. 5 to get there). It is dedicated to the work of the French artist Henri Matisse. The history of the Matisse Museum in Nice is closely linked to Henri Matisse’s deep attachment to Nice, the city where he produced most of his work, as well as the successive donations made to the City by the artist himself and his heirs.

From October 20, 2023, to January 8, 2024, you can discover a temporary exhibition titled “Shirley Jaffe. Before and After Matisse“. It creates a dialogue between the works of this American artist, who is a benchmark of abstract painting at the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, and those of Matisse.

Musée Matisse
164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, 06000 Nice
Admission: 10 € / free for under-18s, students, job seekers, and welfare recipients

Link to the museum’s website

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This museum is a bit far from the city center of Nice, yet it is worth the detour! Built around the theme of the challenge, the permanent exhibition tells the great history of sport through exceptional objects, original stories, and immersive displays! It is an opportunity to rediscover the greatest feats of each generation and to experience the sporting spirit and its values from the inside. During my visit, I was also able to discover the temporary exhibition “Les Elles des jeux” (from November 8, 2023, to November 3, 2024), which is being held in the context of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris.

National Sports Museum Nice exhibition: photos of cycling, skiing, and athletics.

Musée national du Sport
Allianz Riviera Stadium, 6 allée Camille Muffat, 06200 Nice
Admission: 8 € (permanent + temporary exhibition) / 6 € (temporary or permanent exhibition), reduced rates 4 € and 3 € / free for under-18s and job seekers

Link to the museum’s website

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Spending an evening at the Casino Barrière

We are not big casino experts, but we took advantage of the benefits of the French Riviera Pass to discover this iconic city venue. We enjoyed a small glass of Champagne and the 8 € in chips (which we lost in record time!) offered with the pass to go see a little of what the inside of the casino looked like. And I must say that we had a lot of fun.

Casino Barrière Le Ruhl Nice

1 Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice

With the French Riviera Pass : 1 glass of Champagne and 4 € in chips per pass

Note: to enter a casino, you must have your ID and be of legal age!

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Visiting the Saint-Nicolas Russian Orthodox Cathedral

We didn’t have the opportunity to go inside this building, but since we were staying right next door in an apartment hotel during the second part of our stay, we went to see it from the outside and it’s already worth a look! The cathedral is the largest and oldest building of its kind outside of Russia.

Saint-Nicolas Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Guided tour daily by reservation

Free with the French Riviera Pass

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Visiting the Sainte-Réparate Cathedral

Promoted to cathedral in the 16th century, this Baroque building is the largest sanctuary in Old Nice. The Sainte-Réparate Cathedral in Nice is a Catholic cathedral, the current building of which was constructed between 1650 and 1699, the year of its consecration. It is the seat of the Diocese of Nice. If you are wandering around Old Nice, I recommend you take a look, because its Baroque decor is quite impressive!

Place Rossetti Nice with church and colorful facades.

Sainte-Réparate Cathedral

Place Rossetti

Open from Tuesday to Sunday

Free entry

Link to the cathedral’s website

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Gaining elevation on the Castle Hill

If you want to get an incredible view of the city of Nice, I recommend this walk—it’s a bit of a workout, but well worth the effort! If you prefer to skip the cardio, you can also access it via an elevator (rue des Ponchettes). If the elevator happens to be out of service (which was our case), you can hike up the steps (be warned, it’s a steep climb). At the top, you’ll find a botanical garden combined with a park, and most importantly, a unique view of Nice and the promenade. Personally, we went at the end of the day to enjoy the sunset over the city.

Sunset over the Bay of Angels, Nice, with the waterfront. Nicolas Diolez.

Colline du Château

free access (the elevator costs money, however)

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Attending the “Un Festival c’est trop court” Festival

This short film festival, which has been around for 22 years, is organized every year in October by the Heliotrope association, and we were lucky enough to attend during our visit to Nice in 2022. For one week, the festival brings young European cinematic talent to Nice, offering a varied program in different spots around the city: competitions, meetings with filmmakers, tribute evenings, outreach for schools, professional networking, and a free open-air opening ceremony.

We attended a “Focus” evening on Regina Pessoa, an internationally renowned Portuguese animated short film director. It was a beautiful discovery, and we were completely charmed by her very poetic works. We also attended a screening of music videos from 2021-2022 at La Zonmé (a local cultural venue).

Un Festival c’est trop court

October 7 to 14, 2022

October 4 to 11, 2024

Festival Pass 2022 for 35 € / 7 € per festival session

Link to the festival website


My favorite food spots in Nice and the surrounding area

As usual, you’ll find my selection of great addresses in Nice below (a bakery, an ice cream parlor, and several restaurants) that we had the chance to test during our stay with my favorite photographer. These places often allow you to discover local produce and some regional specialties you should try if you visit the Côte d’Azur.

The Cuisine Nissarde label: This “Couhina Nissarda” label was created to promote the authenticity of Nice cuisine. To qualify, restaurateurs must include selected traditional recipes on their menus. The foundation of Niçoise cuisine mainly consists of vegetables (chickpeas, chard, lentils, fava beans, eggplants, zucchini, radishes…), grown on the typical terraced land of the region. Since 2019, this cuisine, between Provence and Italy, has even been added to France’s intangible cultural heritage.

A few local specialties: Niçoise salad; pan bagnat; the Caillette olive typical of Nice; socca; beef stew (daube); pistou soup; pissaladière; chard tart; Niçoise stuffed vegetables…

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Where to eat socca in Nice? Chez Thérésa

Personally, I haven’t had the chance to test the socca (a traditional culinary specialty of Nice cuisine, made from chickpea flour and olive oil, cooked and browned in a wood-fired oven) from Chez Thérésa, but everyone told us it was one of the best in the city!

Chez Thérésa

28 rue Droite & Cours Saleya 06300 Nice

Link to the establishment’s website

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Where to get ice cream in Nice? Azzurro Artisan Glacier

Our friend, the blogger Katou from Touristissimo, took us to discover this artisanal ice cream shop, which she considers the best in the city! And I must say, we were convinced by the quality of the ice cream here. As for flavors, we tried Bella Nissa and orange blossom, and I really liked both.

Azzurro ice cream shop in Nice with a display case and customer waiting to choose.

Azzurro Artisan Glacier

1 Rue Sainte-Reparate, 06300 Nice

Price: 1 scoop 2.50 € / 2 scoops 4 € / 3 scoops 5.20 € / 4 scoops 6.30 € / 5 scoops 7.30 €

Link to the ice cream artisan’s Facebook page

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A Tunisian tea room in Nice? Le Carthage

Once again, here is a great spot in Nice from our friend Katou from Touristissimo. Since she is of Tunisian origin, we can trust her on this type of place. If you want to drink a good mint tea with some little Tunisian pastries, you are in the right place!

Le Carthage

5 Rue Saint François, 06300 Nice

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A bakery and pastry shop in Nice? Armand

This family business has existed for 3 generations and has 3 different locations in Nice (and it seems a 4th will open soon). We had lunch on the terrace of their location on Rue de France. Today, the brand’s shops offer bakery, pastry, snack, and catering services, always with a focus on quality craftsmanship, and the items we tasted were very good.

To try: Niçoise pissaladière; pain bagnat; for dessert, the vanilla peanut with a praline-peanut molten center; the raspberry pistachio cake; the lemon meringue tart; the Paris-Brest.

Terrace of Armand bakery in Nice with palm trees and passersby.
Praline cream puff pastry with "Armand" label in Nice.

Armand

19 rue France 06000 Nice

Link to the brand’s website

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Where to eat Niçoise cuisine in Nice? Restaurant l’Escalinada

This restaurant specializing in Niçoise cuisine also offers grilled meats and wood-fired pizzas. It is located in the heart of the old town of Nice. It was, again, my blogger friend Katou from Touristissimo who recommended this address, and the three of us (myself, the photographer, and our friend) had lunch there during our stay in the city. For 2 people, we paid 55 €, but we couldn’t finish everything because it was very, very generous portions.

Must-try: assortment of starters for 2 people (but actually plenty for 3 / €21); the Niçois stuffed vegetables with mesclun (22 €); merda di can with beef stew (19 €), which literally means dog shit with stew sauce (the Niçois have quite a sense of humor).

Pedestrian street in Nice with the Escalinada restaurant and a lively terrace.

L’Escalinada Restaurant

22, rue Pairolière – Vieux Nice

Link to the restaurant website

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Located in the Nice Étoile shopping center, in the basement, this brand specializing in Italian street food offers piadinas, a specialty that is not yet very well-known in France. It’s an unleavened flatbread that is both soft and crunchy, filled with various products. I had already tested one of their locations in Paris (which you can find in my article on Italian restaurants in Paris). La Piadineria offers several recipes, and you can choose the size of your piadina (rolled or folded version), and your type of dough (with lard or vegetarian).

La Piadineria Nice

30 Avenue Jean Médecin, 06000 Nice

Price: savory piadina between €6.90 and €12 / set menu with price of piadina + €4.50 to add a drink and a dessert

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Where to eat a pizza in Nice? Pizza Cosy

We had never tested this pizza chain, but after visiting the Terra Amata Museum of Prehistory (which I mentioned earlier in the article), which is located right next door, we went to this place for lunch because it was pouring rain! I liked the chain’s effort to have a selection of high-quality products (like the craft brewery that the chain collaborates with). The products used on the pizzas were also of quality and the pizza dough was good. We were also able to take home the rest of the pizza we couldn’t finish in a doggy bag, and I think that’s always a plus. The staff was friendly and there was a little effort put into the decor.

Must-try: the beers from a French craft brewery, Maous, which works with the chain (€3.90 for 33cl); terroir pizza with crème fraîche, mozzarella, ham, goat cheese with Herbes de Provence and chives (€13.90); Cèp’Parti pizza (€15.90); the tiramisu (€4.50).

Interior of the cozy pizzeria in Nice with customers and decorative plants.

Pizza Cosy Nice

2 Bd de Riquier, 06300 Nice

Pizza prices: between €6.90 and €12.90 for small ones and between €9.90 and €15.90 for large ones

Great deal: student set menu with a small pizza + a drink for €7.90

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Where to have a rock night in Nice? Hard Rock Café Nice (Closed)

The Hard Rock Café is an institution in the rock’n’roll world. I’ve actually already written an article about the Hard Rock Café in Paris on the blog. The Nice location, which existed since 2013, was located right in front of the sea, on the Promenade des Anglais. Here, people came to discover the collection of original pieces from the brand that belonged to the greatest music legends, to enjoy the concerts organized by the venue, and to eat food made in the USA. However, during our visit, we tasted the Local Menu, with Niçois flavors.

On the program for this Local Menu: socca chips and nachos style (€13.45); Nissa Burger (€21) with tapenade, fresh goat cheese, and fried eggplant; for drinks, we tried the Basilicous cocktail based on fresh basil and gin (€13.20) and the Nice Beach with cognac and mixtures of agave and orgeat syrups (€13.20); for dessert, the French toast (€9.95).

Interior of the Hard Rock Café Nice with tables and chairs and the logo in the background.

Hard Rock Café Nice

5 Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice

Edit of 01/11/2023: the Hard Rock Café Nice unfortunately closed its doors on September 15, 2023.

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Where to have a romantic dinner in Nice? Hôtel Windsor restaurant

This arty hotel offers rooms decorated by artists and a very beautiful lush garden. The theme of the hotel is entirely focused on contemporary art, and the venue also hosts artists in residence. For our part, we didn’t stay at this hotel, but we had dinner there one evening in an absolutely charming setting, perfect for a romantic meal or for a special event (as was the case, since it was my birthday). In the kitchen, there is chef Laureline Palmade, who has a great track record within prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, Cape Cod, or even London.

We tasted: Dubarry velouté and its Spanish ham croqueta; mushroom and blue cheese quiche with salad; pan-seared pollack fillet with hash brown potatoes and leek fondue; filet mignon marinated in berries and honey with a carrot purée and arancini; vegetarian risotto with porcini mushrooms and parmesan tuile; bergamot and orange blossom tiramisu; yogurt and honey mousse, pistachio financier, and seasonal fruits.

Hôtel Windsor

11 rue Dalpozzo 06000 Nice

Rates: market menu with starter + main course + dessert at €38 / child menu €20

Link to book a room

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The address is located next to the Gare du Sud (another very cool place to go out!). It’s a great bar for craft beers and tapas (served between 7 PM and 11 PM). As for the food, everything is homemade and it’s truly delicious—my girlfriend and I really enjoyed it during our visit! There’s a great atmosphere, and the bar notably organizes a blind test every Tuesday that draws a big crowd. As someone who loves blind tests, I really regretted not being able to go…

We tasted: the mortadella, arugula, and Saint-Marcellin bruschetta (7 €); the homemade chicken tenders with homemade fresh fries (12 €); and the homemade fresh fries (5 €).

Assortment of beers, white wine, fries, and tapas in a bar in Nice.
Tested in 2023

Beer District Libération

1 Place Philippe Randon, 06000 Nice
Price: tapas at 5 € / assortment of tapas for 20 € / bruschetta between 5 € and 7 € / sharing platters between 12 € and 20 € / natural or organic wines by the glass between 4.50 € and 6.70 €

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A gourmet table in the Nice area? La Table de la Réserve

For a little getaway 30 minutes from Nice along the French Riviera, I recommend taking the bus (n°15) from the center of Nice to head to Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This town is a place where the sea and mountains meet, boasting a rich architectural and botanical heritage. It is also where you’ll find La Réserve de Beaulieu, a superb address tucked away in a magnificent setting! This 5-star hotel is one of the oldest independent palaces on the French Riviera, offering stunning sea views. It features a starred restaurant (which also holds 4 Toques in the Gault & Millau guide), the Restaurant des Rois, facing the sea (open only in the evenings), where the cuisine is orchestrated by starred chef and MOF (Best Craftsman of France) Julien Roucheteau.

For our part, we had lunch at La Table de la Réserve, recognized with an “Assiette” in the Michelin Guide and voted best Travellers’ Choice by Tripadvisor. This restaurant offers a chic, refined, yet relaxed take on bistronomy, guided by the culinary DNA of chef Julien Roucheteau. You’ll find contemporary cuisine made from local Mediterranean products sourced from short-supply-chain producers, as well as influences from nearby Italy. The address offers a seasonal menu that is constantly evolving, where classic bistro dishes are revisited with freshness and precision. The professional yet laid-back service and the great atmosphere in the kitchen made for a really wonderful experience for us.

Modern interior of the La Réserve de Beaulieu restaurant near Nice.

La Table de la Réserve

La Réserve de Beaulieu

5, Boulevard du Maréchal Leclerc 06310 Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Price: 4-course menu for the whole table 60 € per person / starters between 13 € and 21 € / main courses between 21 € and 45 € / desserts between 6 € and 13 €

My top tip: go for lunch at La Table de la Réserve, the establishment’s chic brasserie
Our choice: the chef’s table right next to the kitchen where you can watch the chef plating the dishes

Link to the hotel’s website


Where to stay in Nice and the surrounding area?

As always, you’ll find below my selection of great accommodation options in Nice that we had the chance to test during our stay with the favorite photographer in 2022 and then during my solo trip in 2023.

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Where to stay in the historic center of Nice? Hôtel Villa Rivoli

During our stay in Nice in 2022, we stayed in this charming little 3-star boutique hotel with 24 rooms, housed in an 1890s townhouse in the historic center of Nice. We stayed in room #9, with a fairly distinct retro style that gave me the impression of a little candy. In any case, we were quite quiet, and the family atmosphere of the place is really nice.

Hôtel Villa Rivoli Nice facade with flowered balconies and parked cars.
Woman reading a "NICE" guidebook in a hotel room with red wallpaper and a brass bed.

Hôtel Villa Rivoli
10 rue de Rivoli 06000 Nice

Link to book a room

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This 4-star hotel, which is part of the HappyCulture collection by the Honotel group, is very well located just a 5-minute walk from the Nice Ville train station. It is therefore extremely practical when traveling to Nice by train (which was my case during my 2023 trip, as I try not to fly if I don’t have to). There are actually 9 HappyCulture group hotels in total in Nice.

Each hotel in the group is independent and has its own theme. The Villa Bougainville has a travel theme, as a tribute to the world tour of explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville, set in the atmosphere of the French Riviera resorts. I was personally in room 408, which overlooks the back of the establishment. My room had a comfortable bed, and despite a little ventilation noise upon my arrival (and I hate that, I always turn off all A/C), I got used to it and had a good stay at the establishment. Plus, the staff is very nice and particularly helpful. The hotel exudes a friendly, even family-like atmosphere, which I really liked.

The travel tip: I find the hotel group’s concept really great because once you are a guest at one of their hotels, you can enjoy the hospitality of all the other hotels in the group. You can hang out in the lobby, enjoy a hot drink, use the WiFi, and explore the other locations. I found this to be a lovely touch, and I took advantage of it during my stay while wandering around. You can also use the luggage storage and restrooms at the other hotels (and yes, when you’re a girl, and a frequent pee-er at that, it’s super important!).

Woman relaxing on a bed in a colorful hotel room in Nice.
Rattan furniture and a parrot cushion in an interior near Nice.
Tested in 2023

Hôtel HappyCulture Villa Bougainville

29 Avenue Thiers, 06000 Nice

Rates: room from 72 €

Link to book a room

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A palace on the French Riviera near Nice? La Réserve Beaulieu

As I mentioned in the previous paragraph, La Réserve Beaulieu is located 30 minutes from Nice along the French Riviera, in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This town is a place where the sea and mountains meet, and it possesses a rich architectural and botanical heritage. It is also where you’ll find La Réserve de Beaulieu, a superb address nestled in a magnificent setting!

This 5-star hotel with 39 rooms, one of the oldest independent palaces on the French Riviera, offers a breathtaking view of the sea. It also features a Michelin-starred restaurant (which also has 4 Toques in the Gault & Millau guide), the Restaurant des Rois, facing the sea (open only in the evening), whose cuisine is orchestrated by the starred chef and MOF (Best Craftsman of France) Julien Roucheteau. The establishment also has a pool that overlooks the sea in a sumptuous setting.

Facade of La Réserve de Beaulieu with palm trees and a flowering garden.
Luxurious outdoor pool at La Réserve de Beaulieu with sea and mountain views.
Courtyard of La Réserve de Beaulieu, hotel near Nice, Côte d'Azur.

La Réserve de Beaulieu

5, Boulevard du Maréchal Leclerc 06310 Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Link to book a room

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Practical questions

What is the best tip for saving money on sightseeing in Nice?

I recommend the French Riviera Pass. It gives access to many must-see sites (like the Palais Lascaris or the Mamac) and offers a very practical option for unlimited use of the Ligne d’Azur public transport.

Where can you eat the best artisan ice cream in Nice?

Head to Azzurro Artisan Glacier! It’s a local recommendation, and I can confirm that their ice creams are delicious. I especially recommend trying the Bella Nissa and Orange Blossom flavors.

Which hotel to choose near the Nice Ville station?

The Hôtel HappyCulture Villa Bougainville is ideally located a 5-minute walk from the SNCF station. The great advantage of this hotel group is that you can then enjoy the services (lobby, toilets, wifi) of all the other hotels in the chain while wandering around the city.

Where can I discover authentic Niçois cuisine?

I recommend the Restaurant l’Escalinada right in the heart of Old Nice. The portions are generous and authentic. Don’t miss trying the Niçois stuffed vegetables or the local specialty: merda di can with stew!

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Thanks to the Nice Côte d’Azur Tourist Office for their help in discovering Nice and for gifting us the French Riviera Pass. Also, thanks to La Réserve Beaulieu, Hard Rock Café, Armand, and Pizza Cosy for their invitations.

Promenade des Anglais, Nice: blue chairs facing the Mediterranean Sea.

I hope that all of this has made you want to visit Nice, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, please don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and MelleBonPlan
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission required before any use

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