At the end of June, we headed to Normandy with my favorite photographer to follow in the footsteps of Gustave Flaubert for the bicentennial of his birth (he was born in Rouen in 1821). This journey took us to the Seine-Maritime department, which I have already mentioned several times on the blog.
To celebrate the bicentennial of the author’s birth, numerous events are taking place this year in territories linked to Flaubert (you can find the full program on the website dedicated to this event). In this spirit, Seine-Maritime is also offering a rich and varied cultural program centered around this theme. Below, I offer a short overview of some of the discoveries we made during this day in Seine-Maritime.
You can also find a range of products created especially for the event by Seine-Maritime and centered around the world of Flaubert: a black and white range, a dichromatic range; a stationery range; candles… This range is sold at the department’s sites and is also available online via an e-shop. The department has worked as much as possible with local players for this collection (made in France or even entirely made in Normandy): Tissage du Ronchay, Christofle, and others.
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Maison Marrou in Rouen: immersive exhibition “Madame rêve en Bovary”
The Maison Marrou (classified as a historic monument since 1975) is located just a stone’s throw from the Rouen train station (by the way, if you want to discover more about the city, don’t hesitate to check out my complete article on Rouen). This property belongs to the state and, until very recently, housed the Regional Inventory Service. It had therefore never been open for public visits.
Monsieur Marrou was an art ironworker in the 19th century and notably worked on the construction site of the Rouen Cathedral. His house is now classified as a historic monument, particularly for its magnificent facade. The location does not have a direct link with Flaubert, but for this bicentennial, it offers an innovative scenographic project, created by Jean Oddes, which leads us on an immersive journey through a contemporary interpretation of Madame Bovary revolving around three themes: literary, heritage, and contemporary creation (videos, scents, etc.).
For my part, I admit I have never read the book (nor seen any films on the subject, for that matter), and this immersive exhibition really made me want to discover this work by Flaubert (an undeniable gap to fill), the first edition of which dates back to 1857. In any case, the exhibition’s scenography is truly very interesting, and you literally dive into the different key passages of the book.
The Museum of Norman Traditions and Arts is notably presenting a small part of its collections in this “off-site” exhibition at the Maison Marrou, as well as another at the Rouen Opera (in connection with the relationship to music in the novel Madame Bovary).
Exhibition Madame rêve en Bovary
Until November 14, 2021
Open every day
Rates: €5 full price / €3 reduced / free for those under 26 and people with disabilities
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Jumièges Abbey: photo exhibition “Visiting Pompeii – Claudio Sabatino in the footsteps of Gustave Flaubert”
I had already discovered this magnificent site in 2018 during my cycling trip in Normandy! This large Benedictine abbey, founded in 654 by Saint Philibert, is one of the oldest Benedictine monasteries in Normandy and is well worth a quick visit! The vestiges (dating from the 11th to the 18th centuries) still visible of this abbey (nicknamed one of the most beautiful ruins in France) are truly breathtaking and still dominate the Seine valley today. It is also very pleasant to walk in the 14-hectare English-style park that dates back to the 19th century and surrounds the monuments still standing on the site.
As part of the bicentennial of Flaubert’s birth, there is a photo exhibition of Pompeii by the Italian photographer Claudio Sabatino, which is presented within the abbot’s lodge of Jumièges. Indeed, in his “Voyage en Orient” (Travels in the Orient), Gustave Flaubert devotes several pages to his visit to Pompeii in 1851. This exhibition is therefore an opportunity to establish a dialogue between their two visions of the same place, more than a century and a half apart! The exhibition brings together approximately 50 works by the photographer that convey his journey through the city of Pompeii. Alongside the photos, one can find excerpts from Flaubert concerning the places photographed by Claudio Sabatino.
In the abbot’s lodge (which is the former residence of the abbots of Jumièges), a lapidary collection of pieces from the abbey is also permanently exhibited. You can notably admire there “The Enerveés de Jumièges” (The Exhausted of Jumièges), a masterpiece of Gothic sculpture from the end of the 12th century, which evokes the story of two young princes, children of King Clovis II, and the legend of the founding of the Jumièges Abbey by Saint Philibert in 654, favored by this same king and Queen Bathilde.
Exhibition “Visiting Pompeii – Claudio Sabatino, a photographer in the footsteps of Gustave Flaubert”
Until August 1, 2021
Rates: €7.50 / €5.50 / free for those under 26, job seekers, and residents of Jumièges
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The Parc de Clères and the “Loulou & Compagnie” exhibition
This magnificent animal and botanical park extends over 13 hectares around a Renaissance castle and the ruins of a medieval building. You can discover 1,400 animals there (including 1,000 in semi-liberty), especially birds, because the owner of the site in the 19th century, Jean Delacour, was an ornithologist and passionate about birds.
The place works for the conservation and protection of endangered animals, and the preservation of species is very important at the heart of the Park. Inside the park, there is also a botanical trail that presents some of the plants representative of mid-19th-century parks, some of which are mentioned in Flaubert’s writings (lilacs, tulips, mock orange, fuchsia, hydrangeas, etc.).
Finally, the Park is presenting an exhibition for the bicentennial of Flaubert’s birth, titled: “Loulou and Company,” in connection with the parrot Loulou in the short story “A Simple Heart” by Flaubert, written in 1877.
Avenue du Parc 76690 Clères
Open every day
Rates: €9 / €7.50 (student, under 16, over 65) / €6.50 (children 3 to 11) / free for those under 3
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Dining with Flaubert: La Brasserie Paul in Rouen
Still celebrating the bicentennial of Flaubert’s birth, a gastronomy event was created to combine literature and cuisine. In the Seine-Maritime department, more than 60 restaurateurs and food artisans have created a dish or a menu inspired by Flaubert to be offered in their establishments. To help them, 10 recipe cards for culinary inspiration related to Flaubert’s works or elements of his life were developed with Valérie Duclos, the culinary author of the book “A la table de Flaubert” (At Flaubert’s Table).
For our part, we had lunch at the Brasserie Paul, which is located in front of the Rouen Cathedral, to discover their “Dining with Flaubert” offering.
The Flaubert Menu: Gustave salad with sugar snap peas and Vire andouille sausage; Norman-style beef cheek with chef’s gratin; Paris-Rouen with Cluizel Norman chocolate; cider from the Pays de Bray and coffee from the Torréfacteurs Normands.
1 Place de la Cathédrale, 76000 Rouen
Great deal: each customer of a restaurant in the “Dining with Flaubert” network who orders a Flaubert dish will receive free entry to departmental sites and museums throughout the year 2021
Flaubert menu at Brasserie Paul: €28
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Thanks to the Seine-Maritime department and the Agence Observatoire for this welcome, and to all my fellow influencers during this day.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Seine-Maritime and Flaubert, and if you, too, have your own tips and recommendations for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, the photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use
