Home FranceVisiting Marseille: my tips and favorite spots

Visiting Marseille: my tips and favorite spots

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

I know Marseille quite well. I’ve been there about 5 or 6 times now and I haven’t always had a great experience in the city (following a stolen bag while I was going to take an exam quite a few years ago now). However, besides that, I also have memories of extraordinary experiences, and the last few times I returned, I was truly delighted with my little getaways there. It just goes to show, you shouldn’t stop at one bad memory… So, I wanted to write an article for you with the story of my different trips for a few days in the Phocaean city between 2017 and 2023, while also adding some visit recommendations and tips gathered during my earlier stays.

Marseille is the second-largest city in France with over 870,000 inhabitants and is located on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, for which it serves as the capital; it is also the Prefecture of the Bouches-du-Rhône department. Just a stone’s throw from the city is Cassis, which I mention in this other article.

View of Fort Saint-Jean, the Old Port of Marseille, and Notre-Dame de la Garde.
Pharo Tower and the Mediterranean Sea from Fort Saint-Jean in Marseille.

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Table of Contents

What to see and do in Marseille?

As usual, I’m offering a small selection of outing and visit ideas, in short, things to do to discover the city and its immediate surroundings. Obviously, I can only highly recommend that you walk around the city, even if public transport will inevitably be useful at some point, because the city is very large. Also, beware: Marseille is far from a flat city, and you will spend your time going up and down, so remember to bring comfortable shoes that you feel good in!

Panoramic view of Marseille and the surrounding hills from Notre-Dame de la Garde.

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Discover Marseille with a Civitatis Free Tour

To visit the Phocaean city authentically while watching your budget, my top pick is undoubtedly the “Free tour” concept offered by Civitatis. The way this site specialized in excursions works is ideal: you sign up for the walk for free, and you set the price at the end by handing the amount of your choice to the guide based on your level of satisfaction! For about two hours, a local enthusiast will get you moving to the rhythm of Marseille, revealing the secrets of the legendary Old Port, the City Hall, or the majestic Major Cathedral.

Free tour in Marseille by Civitatis

Duration: 2 hours

Link to book your free tour

The tip: the Marseille CityPass

This very practical pass allows, among other things (because I’m surely forgetting some):

  • free access to the Mucem, the Château d’If, and the Regards de Provence Museum
  • a guided tour of the city (for the 72h pass, otherwise 30% off)
  • discounts in shops
  • a boat trip to the Château d’If or the Frioul Islands / or a ticket for the Colorbüs
  • a tour with the little tourist train to Notre-Dame de la Garde
  • an immersive tour in a Mehari at Mx Expérience
  • free public transport (metro, bus, tram) for some passes (possibility to get the CityPass with or without public transport)

In fact, I’ve put together a small list below of the various visits and activities we were able to do thanks to the Pass. We picked up the passes directly at the Tourist Office when we arrived in Marseille. It was also an opportunity to pick up a map of the city, which is always useful… You can book these CityPass here.

Price:

  • 26 € (16 € for children) for a 24h CityPass without public transport and 29 € (19 € for children) with public transport
  • 35 € (20 € for children) for a 48h CityPass without public transport and 39 € (24 € for children) with public transport
  • 42 € (24 € for children) for a 72h CityPass without public transport and 47 € (29 € for children) with public transport

The Tourist and Convention Office

Office next to the Old Port open daily
11 rue de la Canebière 13001 Marseille

Link to the Marseille Tourism website

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Take the Colorbüs Marseille

This company of panoramic buses and convertible minibuses offers 3 circuits in the Phocaean city, departing from the Old Port. You can discover the historic heart and the most iconic monuments of the city on an audio-guided tour. Once you have your ticket in hand, you can get on and off as you please at the various stops and visit the monuments in front of which the bus passes, then continue with the next one.

Red and yellow Colorbus Marseille tourist bus, sightseeing tour.

Colorbüs Marseille

86 Quai du Port, 13002 Marseille

Rate: from 22 € for a one-day ticket

CityPass tip: 1 ticket for a day of Colorbüs included with the CityPass

Link to book a tour on the tourist bus

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Take the Tourist Little Train

With circuit no. 1 of the little tourist train that goes up to Notre-Dame de la Garde, it’s also an opportunity to go see one of the most beautiful views of the city if you’re too tired to do the climb on foot (yes, sometimes I like to be lazy, so what!). Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos to show you of the little train; my favorite photographer was so embarrassed to take it that he spent his time hiding (I don’t really see who could have recognized us since we don’t know anyone in Marseille), but anyway, as a result, he didn’t take any photos of that glorious moment, which is a real shame…

Little Tourist Train

Every day, departures every 20 min from 10:00 to 18:20
Departure at 174 Quai du Port 13002 Marseille

CityPass tip: 1 free trip on the little train with the CityPass to take one of the 2 train circuits of your choice

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Visit Notre-Dame de la Garde

The visit to the basilica (also called “La Bonne Mère” by the locals) is also well worth a look, and the interior always reminds me of the Basilica of Montmartre or that of Fourvière in Lyon: flashy and gilded. The climb up to the iconic monument of the city, which rises to 154 meters (and which is earned because there are quite a few steps to climb), also allows for a magnificent panorama of the city and its surroundings! The basilica, consecrated in 1864, is in Romano-Byzantine style, and we owe its plans to the architect Espérandieu.

View of Marseille with Notre-Dame de la Garde overlooking the city at sunset.
Detail of the dome of the Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille with a golden cross.

Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13006 Marseille

The tip: free admission during opening hours

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Visit the Saint-Victor Abbey

This basilica is a true jewel of Romanesque art, and even earlier, since it was built during the early Christian period. Also, don’t miss the visit to its enigmatic crypt (paid admission). In the foundations, a tangle of sarcophagi was found. It is a place of memory from the early Christian times, and personally, it is also a place I visited during my very first trip to Marseille many years ago. Returning in 2023 was therefore a small personal pilgrimage.

Fortified facade of the Saint-Victor Abbey in Marseille under a clear blue sky.

Saint-Victor Abbey

Place Saint-Victor, 13007 Marseille

free and open admission to the abbey / crypt admission fee is 2 € per person

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Visit the La Major Cathedral

The La Major Cathedral is located in the 2nd arrondissement of Marseille, between Le Panier and La Joliette, and close to the Old Port. Built in the 19th century, it is quite impressive with its well-marked Romano-Byzantine style. It is also well worth a look inside with its rich decor.

La Major Cathedral in Marseille seen from a terrace.

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Visit Fort Saint-Jean

During your time in Marseille, don’t miss a trip to Fort Saint-Jean, which has recently been reopened (it was closed, if I recall, during our last visit to Marseille in 2018), and it is now an integral part of the Mucem (which I will talk about a little further down), to which it is connected by a footbridge. Visiting the Fort is free, by the way! It is also an opportunity to get a very beautiful view of Marseille and the Old Port. This fort is located on the right when facing the Old Port. It is an integral part of an old military complex inseparable from the History of Marseille, and its origin dates back to the 12th century.

View from Fort Saint-Jean in Marseille over the sea with boats and the MuCEM.

Fort Saint-Jean

Quai du Port 13002 Marseille

The tip: free admission

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Visit the Château d’If

This fortress, built by order of Francis I in the 16th century, is famous because it is the place of imprisonment of Edmond Dantès, the hero of the book by Alexandre Dumas “The Count of Monte Cristo” published in 1844. This monument, now managed by the CMN (Centre des Monuments Nationaux), has been open to the public since 1880, which is really quite early when you think about it! After the visit, you can even have a drink on the terrace at the island’s bar/restaurant, which is always nice when you’ve been walking a lot.

In addition, visiting the château also allows for a very pleasant boat trip, since you have to take the latter to get to the island where the building is located. It is also an opportunity to have a very beautiful view of the other side, of the city of Marseille.

Entrance to the Château d'If in Marseille, historic island fortress.
Château d'If on a rocky islet in Marseille with a speed boat.

Château d’If

Frioul If Pier, 1 Quai de la Fraternité, 13001 Marseille
The château is closed every Monday
Visit time: between 45 min and 1h30

CityPass tip: this visit is free with the CityPass (crossing + site visit) by taking the Frioul If Express shuttle accessible at the Old Port maritime station (it is better to come early in the day to reserve the crossing time you want, even with the CityPass) from 8:30 to 17:00. I also advise you to check the shuttle schedules in advance or ask at the Tourist Office.

Link to book your ticket for the Château d’If

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Visit the Cosquer Méditerranée cave

This site, located just opposite the Mucem (which I will talk about a little further down), has been open to the public since June 2022. It houses a replica of a decorated prehistoric cave: the Cosquer Cave. This cave, which is 30,000 years old, was discovered in the 80s under the sea in the heart of the Calanques massif by a diver, Henri Cosquer. To visit the replica of the cave (yes, the real one is, of course, forbidden to access for several obvious reasons), you board small exploration modules (6 places max) that move on a rail, with a very well-made audio guide! I loved this visit because, as an archaeologist by training, I found it magical to be able to discover the inside of this cave that I will obviously never be able to see in real life in my entire life. The replica is very immersive, and the explanations are well-made and fascinating.

The discovery continues with the screening of a short film on the context of the cave’s discovery, then by a visit to the Gallery of the Mediterranean (a didactic and educational ensemble dedicated to the interpretation of the Cosquer Cave).

Cosquer Méditerranée building in Marseille with an inscription on the facade.
Inside the Cosquer Méditerranée cave in Marseille with illuminated limestone concretions.

Cosquer Méditerranée

Promenade Robert Laffont, Esp. J4, 13002 Marseille

Rates: 16 € / children from 10 to 17 years old 10 € / children from 6 to 9 years old 5 € / free up to 5 years old

Link to the website of the Cosquer cave replica

Link to book a visit with an audio guide

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Walk around the Old Port of Marseille

Obviously, the Old Port is somewhat the central place for tourists; personally, I never get tired of it! If you have the opportunity, I also advise you to go there at the time of sunset over the sea, because it is truly a magical moment. The proof is in the photos, and I can tell you that my favorite photographer was in his element (and we also stayed there for a very long time…).

Port of Marseille with sailboats and Notre-Dame de la Garde on the hill.

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Walk through Le Panier

In the Phocaean city, it is simply unmissable to go for a walk in the Le Panier district. In another era, these small narrow alleys would have inevitably been ill-advised, but nowadays, one discovers lively streets and street art as far as the eye can see. I highly recommend wandering through it, even if it means getting a bit lost in this maze. Not everything is beautiful in the neighborhood, but it has an undeniable charm and is truly photogenic. Also, don’t miss the designer shops that have found refuge in this old neighborhood of Marseille.

Le Panier mural street art in Marseille with portrait, trees, and parked motorcycles.

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Take a trip to L’Estaque

This small port is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in the city. In summer (and until October 1st), you can take the maritime shuttle of the RTM from the Old Port of Marseille, which takes you by sea to the port of L’Estaque.

RTM maritime shuttle for L’Estaque

Duration: about 30/40 min
Accessible with passes but not for 24h or 72h passes, be careful!
One-way price: 5 €
Shuttle approximately every hour

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Visit the museums of Marseille

If you are a fan of museums, you will have plenty to do in Marseille, and you certainly won’t be able to see everything in one go, and you will have to come back (unless, of course, you live there).

The tip: the permanent collections of the museums managed by the city of Marseille are open and free to all (and have been since January 2021)!

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Visit the MuCEM

The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations, which opened its doors in 2013, is located at the entrance to the Old Port and features extremely modern architecture that we owe to the architect Rudy Ricciotti associated with Roland Carta. Since its creation, I love to visit this national museum dedicated to the Mediterranean every time I pass through the city! I am just as much a fan of the museography of this institution as I am of the wonderful place that houses it. Its exhibitions present cultural, social, and political themes that blend art, anthropology, history, archaeology…

When we went in 2017, we saw the very beautiful exhibition “Nous sommes Foot” (We are Football), a fascinating history of the beautiful game, marked by the major events of the 20th century. And despite the fact that I am not at all a fan of this sport, I was still captivated by this exhibition, which was extremely well put together! And during our last visit in October 2023, we discovered the “Fashion Folklore” exhibition (which ended on November 6, 2023).

Shaded terrace of Nhow Marseille with sea view and MuCEM.
Glass facade of the MuCEM in Marseille with the lighthouse in the background.
Footbridge with visitors facing the sea and boats, Fort Saint-Jean Marseille.

MuCEM

7 Prom. Robert Laffont, 13002 Marseille

“Nous sommes Foot” exhibition (2107-2018)

“Fashion Folklore” exhibition (2023)
open every day except Tuesday

Rates: 11 € full price / 7.50 € reduced

The tip: the museum is free for all every first Sunday of the month / it is also always free for those under 18, job seekers, and welfare recipients

CityPass tip: admission is free with the CityPass

Link to the museum’s website

Link to book a skip-the-line entrance ticket

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Visit the MuCEM reserves for free

The CCR (Center for Conservation and Resources) is the place housing the MuCEM reserves and the museum’s collection management and documentary resource team. On-site, you’ll find a reading and object consultation room, temporary exhibitions, and a model apartment presenting a “typical reserve” especially for the public. And what is wonderful is that all of this is free! You just need to have an ID document to show to be able to enter.

CCR

1 rue Clovis Hugues 13003 Marseille

Reading room with free access Monday to Friday from 14:00 to 17:00 (mornings by appointment)
Exhibition with free access Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 17:00

Consultation of objects by appointment only
Visit of the model apartment by registration on the first Tuesday of the month at 14:00
reservationccr@mucem.org

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Visit the Museum of History of Marseille

Completely renovated in 2013, this museum allows you to learn about the history of the city from its origins to the present day, covering more than 15,500 m² as it also presents the archaeological site of the ancient port. I think it is an essential step if you want to learn more about the (extremely rich) history of the city; however, be aware that you will need at least 2 hours to see everything because this museum is very large!

Roman ruins of the Jardin des Vestiges in Marseille with buildings in the background.

Museum of History of Marseille

2, rue Henri-Barbusse 13001 Marseille

open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

Temporary exhibition rates: 6 € / 3 € reduced / free for those under 18 and students up to 26 years old

The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Roman Docks Museum

This museum, located in the 2nd arrondissement of Marseille, presents in situ the archaeological remains of one of the few Roman commercial warehouses known in the world. I therefore recommend it to fans of archaeology and old stones like me.

Interior archaeological excavations with amphorae and structural remains at the Roman Docks Museum in Marseille.

Roman Docks Museum

28, Place Vivaux, 13002 Marseille

open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

The tip: free admission for all

Edit October 15, 2023: the museum is currently closed for technical reasons

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Visit the Vieille Charité Museum

This museum is located in the heart of the historic Le Panier neighborhood, and the place is also worth a detour to admire the architecture of the 17th-century buildings, which are the work of Pierre Puget. During our visit in 2018, I was able to discover the “Jack London in the South Seas” exhibition. The latter was a true invitation to travel, retracing the journey of the writer and his wife Charmian in the South Seas between 1907 and 1909.

Vieille Charité Center

2 Rue de la Charité, 13002 Marseille
Temporary exhibition rates: 9 € / 5 € / free for those under 18 and students up to 26 years old

The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Museum of Decorative Arts, Earthenware and Fashion

This museum, housed in the Château Borély, presents a selection of 2,500 works of great diversity of techniques: furniture, ceramics, glass, tapestries, art objects, rare exotic objects, fashion and accessory collections, from the 18th century to today. If you are staying at the Nhow Hotel (which I talk about in my article on my selection of accommodations in Marseille), it’s a good cultural outing idea because it is located about a 20-30 min walk from the hotel, and it is quite pleasant to go there via Parc Borély.

Château de Diolez, exterior of Nhow Marseille with sculpted fountain.

Museum of Decorative Arts, Earthenware and Fashion

Château de Borely, 132 Avenue Clot Bey, 13008 Marseille
open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

Rates for temporary exhibitions: 5 € / reduced 3 € / free for those under 18 and students up to 26 years old

The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections

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Visit the Cantini Museum

We stumbled upon this city museum completely by chance, housed in a very beautiful 17th-century private mansion. This place was bought in the 19th century by Jules Cantini (art lover and sculptor), who donated it to the city of Marseille in 1916 so that it could become a museum dedicated to modern art. The museum therefore presents a broad panorama of modern art from the 20th century. It highlights some artistic movements like post-impressionism, fauvism, cubism, surrealism… The museum also hosts many deposits from other institutions such as the Centre Pompidou or the CNAP.

Facade of the Cantini Museum in Marseille, a cultural visit place.
Pointillist painting of the Old Port of Marseille at the Cantini Museum.

Cantini Museum

19 Rue Grignan, 13006 Marseille

The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit the Regards de Provence Museum

This museum, housed in a former 1948 maritime health station converted into a cultural venue in 2013, celebrated its 5th anniversary in 2018. It is located right next to the magnificent La Major Cathedral and also opposite the MuCEM.

Regards de Provence Museum

Allée Regards de Provence (facing the J4 esplanade) 13002 Marseille
open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

Rates: 8.50 € adult / 7.50 € and 6.50 € reduced (temporary + permanent exhibition)

The tip: free guided tour on Saturday at 10:30 (excluding admission fee) by reservation

CityPass tip: admission is free with the CityPass

Link to the museum’s website


My shopping favorites in Marseille

Below you will find a small selection of great places for your shopping in Marseille and to bring back some local products.

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Le Comptoir O Huiles

While walking in Le Panier, we discovered the Comptoir O Huiles boutique, which, as its name suggests, is specialized in olive oil. You can have a meal there or simply taste different quality oils. A beautiful place for all lovers of the product (dipping a piece of bread in good oil, there is nothing better!).

Facade of Comptoir O Huiles, restaurant and olive oil bar in Marseille.

Comptoir O Huiles

38 Rue Sainte Françoise 13002 Marseille

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Where to get a real pair of Marseille espadrilles? Espigas

At the origin of this beautiful project that was born in 2013 is a couple who wanted to make Marseille espadrilles. Quick reminder: basically, espadrilles are worker shoes with rope soles. At Espigas, everything is manufactured in Marseille with recycled cotton, and then the brand works with a dyer for the different colors and patterns of the shoes. There is a single boutique located in Marseille near the Old Port, and the shoes are also available for sale online on the brand’s website. The brand also has several shoe collections: classic espadrilles (with a great choice of patterns and colors!); trainers; sneakers; slippers.

For my part, I obviously left with a pair of espadrilles! My first, because I had never had any. I wore them in Marseille before autumn really arrived, and I must say they are particularly comfortable.

Espigas Marseille boutique: colorful espadrilles exhibited and displayed.
Espigas Marseille boutique: espadrilles, sailor shirts, and tote bags in a shop.

Espigas

3 Cours Jean Ballard 13001 Marseille

Price for a pair of espadrilles: from 59 €

Link to the brand’s website


My gourmet favorites in Marseille

As usual, you will find below my selection of great places in Marseille (restaurants) that we have had the opportunity to test during our various stays with the favorite photographer. These places often offer a chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you are visiting the PACA region.

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Where to buy navettes in Marseille? Le Four des navettes

This address, located a stone’s throw from the Saint-Victor Abbey (see above in the article) and which we discovered by chance after our visit to the monument, is apparently a Marseille institution since it has existed for nearly 200 years (since 1781). I bought a bag of 12 navettes (price 12 €). I thought it was a bit expensive at the time, but that was before discovering that they were really very big (I was expecting a smaller size). And after tasting them, I fully endorse the address, and their navettes are delicious!

Four des Navettes Marseille, founded in 1781, on Rue Sainte.
Tested in 2023

Le Four des navettes

136 rue Sainte 13007 Marseille

CityPass tip: tasting and discount

Link to the address website

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Where to eat cheap in Marseille? Les Bavards Opéra

This small address, opened in 2021, offers Parisian-style bouillon cuisine, meaning it offers classic French dishes at low prices. Indeed, here it is possible to eat a starter, main course, and dessert for 16.90 €!!! For our part, we took advantage of the Indian summer this month of October 2023 to sit on the small terrace in front of the restaurant and enjoy the last beautiful days. The address is ideally located a stone’s throw from the Old Port and in the Opera district (hence its name). It is a very good choice if you want to eat for cheap and quite adequately.

We tasted: egg mayo and zucchini-mint soup for starters; croque monsieur with fries and salad (11.90 €) and salad of the moment, a Niçoise salad (13.90 €), and for dessert, the homemade apple compote with speculoos (3.90 €); Les Bavards wines, white and rosé (4.50 € per glass).

Lunch at Les Bavards Marseille: Niçoise salad, croque-monsieur, and fries.
Tested in 2023

Les Bavards Opéra

25 Rue Glandeves, 13001 Marseille

open only for lunch

Price: starter at 3.50 € and starter of the day at 2.50 € / main courses between 11.90 € and 13.90 € / desserts 3.90 € and dessert of the day 2.50 € / glass of wine between 3.50 € and 4.50 € / coffee 1.80 €

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to have a bistronomic lunch in Marseille? Restaurant Cédrat

This very beautiful address is run by a couple of chefs! At lunch, it’s Mama Kyuna who treats us to her world cuisine, fresh and perfectly executed. In the evening, the concept is different and it’s Éric Maillet who is in charge (but we for our part tested the restaurant at lunch, so I won’t be able to tell you about it). We had a crush on this address and loved the very beautiful, shaded, and charming patio that is hidden at the back of the establishment.

We tasted: roasted zucchini with white sauce, green oil, herbs, and almonds; hummus with caramelized onions, kalou oil, salad burnet, and sesame; slow-cooked pork with caramel; perfect egg with braised leeks and baby potatoes; for dessert, a chocolate fondant with tonka ganache; very nice non-alcoholic drink, a homemade lemonade (5 €).

Arranged outdoor terrace of the Le Cédrat restaurant in Marseille.
Tested in 2023

Restaurant Cédrat
81 rue de Breteuil
Lunch price: starter + main or main + dessert 24 € / starter + main + dessert 28 €

Link to the restaurant’s website

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A food-court in Marseille? Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port

This food-court (Marseille’s 1st!) installed near the Old Port opened its doors in 2022 in a completely renovated space. It is managed by a Marseille-based SME, totally independent (and not by a large group, which is always good to know). Here, no table service: you choose your dishes from one of the 12 stalls (there is something for everyone): Nonna Mina, an Italian; the Serre végé (platters between 23 € and 25 €); le Canon, which is also a wine cellar (between 300 and 500 references of wines) and which offers masterclasses from le Canon twice a month; a mixology bar that is open from 18:00; la rôtisserie de la garde; la Cave à Jambon des Halles; 500 degrés, which makes Neapolitan pizzas (prices between 9 € and 22 €); la Gamelle sandwich; les Coquillages Claude (La Claude platter, which we took: 20 €); La Vallée du Liban (plates between 15 € and 17 € / sandwiches 7 €); la Gourmande (a sweet stall)…

There are spaces to sit inside, but I especially advise you to take advantage of the 500-seat terrace installed in front of the establishment and in the middle of the Cours d’Estienne d’Orve. Regarding prices, it remains quite accessible since it is mostly street-food.

Interior of La Gourmande restaurant at Les Grandes Halles du Vieux-Port in Marseille.

Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port

30 Cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, 13001 Marseille

Open 364 days/365 and 7 days/7

Link to the Food-Court’s website

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Where to eat Italian in Marseille? La Cantinetta

This nice Italian restaurant is located on the Cours Julien and it offers very good Italian dishes (pasta, risotto…) with 100% Italian products. I also recommend it because at the back of the restaurant, you will find a charming patio far from the hustle and bustle of the street. An Italian address not to be missed in Marseille.

Tested in 2023

La Cantinetta
24 cours Julien 13006 Marseille

Open Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to eat on the terrace at Cours d’Estienne D’Orve in Marseille? Olea

This beautiful terrace installed on the Cours d’Estienne D’Orve opened recently. The setting and decor of the terrace are very cozy and decorated with olive trees, and the menu focuses on Mediterranean products.

To taste: for starters to share, panisses (7 €) and fried prawns with angel hair with a lemon-herb mayonnaise (14 €); the artichoke carpaccio, a light and fresh dish for the summer season (17 €); the Oléa escalope, a breaded veal escalope with a cheese cream (23 €).

Terrace of Olea restaurant in Marseille with rattan chairs and olive tree under an awning.
Tested in 2023

Olea

8 Rue Euthymènes, 13001 Marseille

Price: main courses between 17 € and 32 €

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Where to eat pizza in Le Panier? Chez Etienne

I haven’t been myself, but my favorite photographer had the opportunity to taste with our friend Borey from the Pleaz blog this atmosphere typical of a casual restaurant, generous with its pizzas and its pieces of meat. It is difficult to describe the deafening but lively noise that reigns in the room. The latter is filled with photos of celebrities from the cinema, singing, and politicians. Success has its price, so you have to be patient if you haven’t reserved because the line is long! But if you want to taste traditional comforting cuisine and a restaurant atmosphere like you don’t really see anymore, it’s at Étienne’s that you’ll find all that.

Small detail that has its importance: credit cards are not accepted… nothing is more traditional than that!

Grilled prime rib sliced on a wooden board, probable side dish Nhow Marseille.
Tested in 2018

Chez Étienne Restaurant

43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille
open every day except Sunday from noon to 14:00 and from 20:00 to 23:00

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Where to eat seafood in Le Panier? Entre Terre et Mer

I also recommend a good address to go eat at the restaurant Entre Terre et Mer in the Le Panier district. Ideal for having a seafood platter to share on the terrace in the street of Le Panier.

Rue des Mauvestis in Le Panier in Marseille with fish mural and terrace.

Entre Terre et Mer Restaurant

13 rue du Panier 13002 Marseille

open lunch and dinner every day except Monday, Tuesday lunch, and Wednesday lunch
every day in July and August

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to eat in Marseille on the Old Port? Le Fioupelan

This beautiful address at the Old Port is an exception in a neighborhood where it is difficult to find quality restaurants… In this fish restaurant, in addition to the magnificent view of Notre-Dame de la Garde (which I told you about above), you will find plates that are very well made and prepared with well-sourced products (Mediterranean fish, seasonal and local products…). And then the little extra that doesn’t spoil anything: the address also has a very beautiful terrace with a view of the “Bonne Mère”.

We tasted: sea bream ceviche with peach (18.90 €); the Fioupelan Aioli (23.90 €); linguini with beef chuck shredded after 7 hours of cooking with its cooking juices (23.90 €); homemade snickers (8.50 €).

Restaurant terrace Marseille seaside at night with a warm atmosphere.
Tested in 2023

Fioupelan
62 quai du Port, 13002 Marseille
Price: starter between 7.90 € and 18.90 € / main courses between 16.90 € and 34.90 € / desserts between 7.50 € and 9.50 €

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Where to have a retro evening in Marseille? Flashback Café (updated 2026: closed)

This address plunges us into the 90s! Their cocktails are very good and not very expensive (between 8 € and 8.50 €), and I recommend that you try the Flashback Mule if you like it. The address also has a very nice selection of craft beers (because before, the previous address installed here was precisely a beer bar). There is also another address with this concept in Toulouse that opened at the same time.

We tasted as tapas: panisses and aioli (6 €); fries (5 €); nachos (9 €); mini croque-monsieur (6 €).

Interior bar/restaurant colorful with giant smiley and consoles, a good plan in Marseille.

4 rue de la République 13001 Marseille

Price: cocktails 8.50€ / tapas between 5€ and 7€ and platters between 15€ and 24€

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A cocktail bar in Marseille? Carry Nation

This chain has 3 cocktail bars in the south, including a hidden and clandestine bar in the center of Marseille. And it is really a very good cocktail bar address. The favorite photographer surprised me by taking me there for my birthday, and we had a great time. You enter through a closet in this hidden bar that offers a journey back in time to the era of prohibition. Here, booking is mandatory, and the address is only revealed to you after you have booked. A really very nice address where I even blew out my birthday “candle” on a cocktail.

Tested in 2023

Carry Nation

Secret address 13006 Marseille

Link to the bar’s website


My accommodation favorites in Marseille: where to stay?

I have put together another article with a selection of great accommodation addresses that I was able to discover in Marseille during my various stays in the city, with hotels and bed and breakfasts.

Link to my article “Where to stay in Marseille?”

Practical questions

What is the best way to visit Marseille without breaking the bank?

The Marseille CityPass is the ideal option. It includes public transport, free access to the MuCEM, the crossing and visit to the Château d’If, as well as a trip on the famous little tourist train to go up to Notre-Dame de la Garde.

Where to eat in Marseille on a small budget?

To eat well and cheaply, I recommend the bouillon Les Bavards Opéra with its complete menu at a low price. Another excellent friendly option: Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port, the city’s first food-court with its 12 stalls and large terrace.

What local specialties should you bring back from Marseille?

For gourmet treats, a mandatory stop at Four des navettes (the institution has existed since 1781!). For fashion, fall for a real pair of Marseille espadrilles made with recycled cotton at Espigas.

Where to have a drink in an unusual place in Marseille?

If you like original experiences, definitely book at Carry Nation. It is a hidden (clandestine) cocktail bar on the theme of prohibition, whose secret address is only revealed to you after the booking. You enter through a closet!

Panoramic view of Marseille, the sea, and the islands, with pine trees in the foreground.

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover or rediscover Marseille, and if you also have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!


Port of Marseille with sailboats and Notre-Dame de la Garde on the hill.

Find all my articles on Marseille below:
⇒ All my articles on Marseille
⇒ All my articles on the PACA region

MY ARTICLESON MARSEILLE
⇒ Getaway to Marseille (2017)
⇒ Stay at the Nhow Marseille (2018)


Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization mandatory before any use

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