I know Marseille a little. I’ve been there about 5 or 6 times now and I haven’t always had a good experience in the city (following a stolen bag while I was going to take a competitive exam quite a few years ago now). However, besides that, I also have memories of extraordinary experiences, and the last few times I returned, I was truly delighted with my little getaways there. It just goes to show, you shouldn’t stop at one bad memory… So, I wanted to write an article for you with the story of my different trips for a few days in the Phocaean city between 2017 and 2023, while also adding some visit recommendations and tips gathered during my earlier stays.
Marseille is the second-largest city in France with over 870,000 inhabitants and is located on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, for which it serves as the capital; it is also the Prefecture of the Bouches-du-Rhône department. Just a stone’s throw from the city is Cassis, which I mention in this other article.
To plan your stay in Marseille:
Plan your stay
Places we tried
Where to stay
Mama Shelter Marseille
Friendly atmosphere near Cours Julien, comfortable beds, a buffet of local produce
What to do
CityPass here
Very handy: Mucem, Château d'If and public transport included
Partner links: Booking, Civitatis. Booking through these links supports the blog, at no extra cost to you. For greater transparency…This selection contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through them, the partner website may pay us a small commission.
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Table of Contents
What to see and do in Marseille?
As usual, I’m offering a small selection of outing and visit ideas, in short, things to do to discover the city and its immediate surroundings. Obviously, I can only highly recommend that you walk around the city, even if public transport will inevitably be useful at some point, because the city is very large. Also, beware: Marseille is far from a flat city, and you will spend your time going up and down, so remember to bring comfortable shoes that you feel good in!
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Discover Marseille with a Civitatis Free Tour
If you prefer exploring Marseille with a guide, Civitatis offers a free tour in Le Panier. Booking is free, then you give the guide an amount of your choice at the end. I am explaining how this offer works here, without a personal review of the tour.
Free tour in Marseille by Civitatis
Duration: 2 hours
Link to book your free tour For a more transparent world...If you book a visit by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return, you support the blog and help it grow. It's up to you 🙂
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The tip: the Marseille CityPass
The Marseille CityPass includes several visits and public transport. These are the main benefits listed by the tourist office in October 2026:
- public transport (bus, metro and tram);
- the Mucem, the Regards de Provence Museum and admission to the Château d’If;
- the little train to Notre-Dame de la Garde and one day on the Colorbüs;
- a choice between a crossing to If or Frioul or admission to Cosquer Méditerranée;
- the virtual Méhari ride at Maison Yellow, a visit to the Citadelle and the exhibitions at Friche la Belle de Mai;
- one guided tour from the tourist office’s €10 programme with the 72h pass (30% off with the 24h and 48h passes), subject to booking and availability;
- discounts and tastings with participating partners.
In fact, I’ve put together a small list below of the various visits and activities we were able to do thanks to the Pass. We picked up the passes directly at the Tourist Office when we arrived in Marseille. It was also an opportunity to pick up a map of the city, which is always useful… You can book these CityPass hereFor greater transparency…Booking through these links supports the blog, at no extra cost to you.. For a more transparent world...If you book a visit by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return, you support the blog and help it grow. It's up to you 🙂
CityPass prices including transport, checked in October 2026:
- 24h: €36 per adult, €24 per child;
- 48h: €47 per adult, €28 per child;
- 72h: €55 per adult, €34 per child.
The tourist office lists the version without transport as unavailable. The pass starts at first use and lasts 24, 48 or 72 consecutive hours. Be careful with the choice between Cosquer and the boat: you cannot combine both.
Personally, I would choose the visits that interest you before buying the pass: the permanent collections of the municipal museums are already free. If you mainly want to wander around Le Panier and the Old Port, the CityPass is not essential.
The Tourist and Convention Office
Office beside the Old Port: 9am–6pm, closed on 25 December and 1 January.
11 La Canebière, 13001 Marseille
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Take the Colorbüs Marseille
Colorbüs offers a panoramic bus route with several stops in Marseille. You can discover the historic heart and the most iconic monuments of the city on an audio-guided tour. Once you have your ticket in hand, you can get on and off as you please at the various stops and visit the monuments in front of which the bus passes, then continue with the next one.
Colorbüs Marseille
Departure: 36 boulevard Jacques Saadé, Marseille
Price: from €23 per adult for the panoramic bus ticket (depending on the option).
CityPass tip: 1 ticket for a day of Colorbüs included with the CityPass
Link to book a tour on the tourist bus For a more transparent world...If you book a visit by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return, you support the blog and help it grow. It's up to you 🙂
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Take the Tourist Little Train
With circuit no. 1 of the little tourist train that goes up to Notre-Dame de la Garde, it’s also an opportunity to go see one of the most beautiful views of the city if you’re too tired to do the climb on foot (yes, sometimes I like to be lazy, so what!). Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos to show you of the little train; my favorite photographer was so embarrassed to take it that he spent his time hiding (I don’t really see who could have recognized us since we don’t know anyone in Marseille), but anyway, as a result, he didn’t take any photos of that glorious moment, which is a real shame…
Little Tourist Train
Notre-Dame de la Garde route: departure from 174 quai du Port, 13002 Marseille.
April–August: 9.30am–5pm, every 20 minutes (10 minutes at busy times).
September–November: 9.40am–12.20pm and 1.30pm–5pm, every 20 minutes.
December–March: 10am–noon and 2pm–4pm, every 40 minutes depending on demand.
Prices: €11 per adult, €6 per child.CityPass tip: the Notre-Dame de la Garde route is included.
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Visit Notre-Dame de la Garde
The visit to the basilica (also called “La Bonne Mère” by the locals) is also well worth a look, and the interior always reminds me of the Basilica of Montmartre or that of Fourvière in Lyon: flashy and gilded. The climb up to the iconic monument of the city, which rises to 154 meters (and which is earned because there are quite a few steps to climb), also allows for a magnificent panorama of the city and its surroundings! The basilica, consecrated in 1864, is in Romano-Byzantine style, and we owe its plans to the architect Espérandieu.
Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde
Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13006 Marseille
The tip: free admission during opening hours
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Visit the Saint-Victor Abbey
This basilica is a true jewel of Romanesque art, and even earlier, since it was built during the early Christian period. Also, don’t miss the visit to its enigmatic crypt (paid admission). In the foundations, a tangle of sarcophagi was found. It is a place of memory from the early Christian times, and personally, it is also a place I visited during my very first trip to Marseille many years ago. Returning in 2023 was therefore a small personal pilgrimage.
Saint-Victor Abbey
Place Saint-Victor, 13007 Marseille
free and open admission to the abbey / crypt admission fee is 3 € per person
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Visit the La Major Cathedral
The La Major Cathedral is located in the 2nd arrondissement of Marseille, between Le Panier and La Joliette, and close to the Old Port. Built in the 19th century, it is quite impressive with its well-marked Romano-Byzantine style. It is also well worth a look inside with its rich decor.
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Visit Fort Saint-Jean
During your time in Marseille, don’t miss a trip to Fort Saint-Jean (it was closed, if I recall, during our visit to Marseille in 2018). It is now an integral part of the Mucem (which I will talk about a little further down), to which it is connected by a footbridge. Access to the outdoor areas of the Fort is free, by the way! It is also an opportunity to get a very beautiful view of Marseille and the Old Port. This fort is located on the right when facing the Old Port. It is an integral part of an old military complex inseparable from the History of Marseille, and its origin dates back to the 12th century.
Fort Saint-Jean
Quai du Port 13002 Marseille
The tip: free access to the outdoor areas
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Visit the Château d’If
This fortress, built by order of Francis I in the 16th century, is famous because it is the place of imprisonment of Edmond Dantès, the hero of the book by Alexandre Dumas “The Count of Monte Cristo” published in 1844. This monument, now managed by the CMN (Centre des Monuments Nationaux), has been open to the public since 1880, which is really quite early when you think about it! After the visit, you can even have a drink on the terrace at the island’s bar/restaurant, which is always nice when you’ve been walking a lot.
In addition, visiting the château also allows for a very pleasant boat trip, since you have to take the latter to get to the island where the building is located. It is also an opportunity to have a very beautiful view of the city of Marseille from the other side.
Château d’If
Boarding at the Old Port, 1 quai de la Fraternité, 13001 Marseille.
1 April–27 September: 10am–6pm. 28 September–31 March: 10am–5pm, closed on Mondays.
Closed on 1 January, 1 May and 25 December, and in bad weather.
Allow 45 minutes to 1½ hours for the visit.
Individual admission to the monument: €7; the crossing costs extra without the CityPass.CityPass tip: admission to the château is included. For the crossing, you must choose the boat option rather than Cosquer. Departures depend on the weather; it is best to arrive early to arrange the crossing, even with the pass.
Link to book your ticket for the Château d’If For a more transparent world...If you book a visit by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return, you support the blog and help it grow. It's up to you 🙂
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Visit the Cosquer Méditerranée cave
This site, located just opposite the Mucem (which I will talk about a little further down), has been open to the public since June 2022. It houses a replica of a decorated prehistoric cave: the Cosquer Cave. This cave, which is 30,000 years old, was discovered in the 80s under the sea in the heart of the Calanques massif by a diver, Henri Cosquer. To visit the replica of the cave (yes, the real one is, of course, forbidden to access for several obvious reasons), you board small exploration modules (6 places max) that move on a rail, with a very well-made audio guide! I loved this visit because, as an archaeologist by training, I found it magical to be able to discover the inside of this cave that I will obviously never be able to see in real life in my entire life. The replica is very immersive, and the explanations are well-made and fascinating.
The discovery continues with the screening of a short film on the context of the cave’s discovery, then by a visit to the Gallery of the Mediterranean (a didactic and educational ensemble dedicated to the interpretation of the Cosquer Cave).
Cosquer Méditerranée
Promenade Robert Laffont, Esp. J4, 13002 Marseille
Prices: €19 / ages 10–17: €11 / ages 6–9: €6 / free up to age 5
Link to book an entry ticket with audio guide For a more transparent world…If you book a tour by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you 🙂
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Walk around the Old Port of Marseille
Obviously, the Old Port is somewhat the central place for tourists; personally, I never get tired of it! If you have the opportunity, I also advise you to go there at the time of sunset over the sea, because it is truly a magical moment. The proof is in the photos, and I can tell you that my favorite photographer was in his element (and we also stayed there for a very long time…).
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Walk through Le Panier
In the Phocaean city, it is simply unmissable to go for a walk in the Le Panier district. In another era, visiting these small, dangerous alleys would inevitably have been discouraged, but nowadays, one discovers lively streets and street art as far as the eye can see. I highly recommend wandering through it, even if it means getting a bit lost in this maze. Not everything is beautiful in the neighborhood, but it has an undeniable charm and is truly photogenic. Also, don’t miss the designer shops that have found refuge in this old neighborhood of Marseille.
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Take a trip to L’Estaque
This small port is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in the city. In the warmer months, you can take the maritime shuttle of the RTM from the Old Port of Marseille, which takes you by sea to the port of L’Estaque.
RTM maritime shuttle for L’Estaque
Crossing time: around 30 to 40 minutes.
Price listed for the 2026 season: €5 one way, including 90 minutes of connections on buses, metro and trams.
RTM 24h and 72h passes and the CityPass do not include this shuttle. Tickets on board; departures depend on the weather.
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Visit the museums of Marseille
If you are a fan of museums, you will have plenty to do in Marseille, and you certainly won’t be able to see everything in one go, and you will have to come back (unless, of course, you live there).
The tip: the permanent collections of the museums managed by the city of Marseille are open and free to all (and have been since January 2021)!
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Visit the MuCEM
The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations, which opened its doors in 2013, is located at the entrance to the Old Port and features extremely modern architecture that we owe to the architect Rudy Ricciotti associated with Roland Carta. Since its creation, I have loved visiting this national museum dedicated to the Mediterranean every time I pass through the city! I am just as much a fan of the museography of this institution as I am of the wonderful place that houses it. Its exhibitions present cultural, social, and political themes that blend art, anthropology, history, archaeology…
When we went in 2017, we saw the very beautiful exhibition “Nous sommes Foot” (We are Football), a fascinating history of the beautiful game, marked by the major events of the 20th century. And despite the fact that I am not at all a fan of this sport, I was still captivated by this exhibition, which was extremely well put together! And during our last visit in October 2023, we discovered the “Fashion Folklore” exhibition (which ended on November 6, 2023).
For a visit from 28 October 2026, I would also draw your attention to the exhibition “Manger les images”, announced until 12 April 2027. It explores images made to be eaten, from shaped breads to cakes, and the practices around them. I have not visited it; the memories and photos in this section are still from our visits in 2017 and 2023.
MuCEM
7 Prom. Robert Laffont, 13002 Marseille
“Nous sommes Foot” exhibition (2017-2018)
“Fashion Folklore” exhibition (2023)
open every day except TuesdayRates: 11 € full price / 7.50 € reduced
The tip: the museum is free for all every first Sunday of the month / it is also always free for those under 18, job seekers, and welfare recipients
CityPass tip: admission is free with the CityPass
Link to book a skip-the-line entrance ticket For a more transparent world...If you book a visit by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return, you support the blog and help it grow. It's up to you 🙂
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Visit the MuCEM reserves for free
The CCR (Center for Conservation and Resources) is the place housing the MuCEM reserves and the museum’s collection management and documentary resource team. On-site, you’ll find a reading and object consultation room, temporary exhibitions, and a model apartment presenting a “typical reserve” especially for the public. And what is wonderful is that all of this is free! You just need to have an ID document to show to be able to enter.
CCR
1 rue Clovis Hugues 13003 Marseille
Reading room: free access Monday to Friday, 2pm–5pm (mornings by appointment).
Exhibition: free access Monday to Friday, excluding public holidays, until 5pm. To confirm the opening time, contact reservationccr@mucem.org.Consultation of objects by appointment only
Visit of the model apartment by registration on the first Tuesday of the month at 14:00
reservationccr@mucem.org
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Visit the Museum of History of Marseille
Completely renovated in 2013, this museum allows you to learn about the history of the city from its origins to the present day, covering more than 15,500 m² as it also presents the archaeological site of the ancient port. I think it is an essential step if you want to learn more about the (extremely rich) history of the city; however, be aware that you will need at least 2 hours to see everything because this museum is very large!
Museum of History of Marseille
2, rue Henri-Barbusse 13001 Marseille
Exceptional closure since 20 October 2026 until further notice (official announcement checked on 27 October). Normal hours, outside this closure: Tuesday–Sunday, 9am–6pm.
Temporary exhibitions: prices vary by exhibition; free for under-18s and European Union students aged 18–26.
The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections
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Visit the Roman Docks Museum
This museum, located in the 2nd arrondissement of Marseille, presents in situ the archaeological remains of one of the few Roman commercial warehouses known in the world. I therefore recommend it to fans of archaeology and old stones like me.
Roman Docks Museum
28, Place Vivaux, 13002 Marseille
Museum closed until further notice, according to the City of Marseille (checked on 27 October 2026).
The tip: free admission for all
No reopening date has been announced.
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Visit the Vieille Charité Museum
This museum is located in the heart of the historic Le Panier neighborhood, and the place is also worth a detour to admire the architecture of the 17th-century buildings, which are the work of Pierre Puget. During our visit in 2018, I was able to discover the “Jack London in the South Seas” exhibition. The latter was a true invitation to travel, retracing the journey of the writer and his wife Charmian in the South Seas between 1907 and 1909.
Vieille Charité Center
2 Rue de la Charité, 13002 Marseille
Temporary exhibitions: prices vary by exhibition; free for under-18s and European Union students aged 18–26. Permanent collections are free.The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections
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Visit the Museum of Decorative Arts, Earthenware and Fashion
This museum, housed in the Château Borély, presents a selection of 2,500 works of great diversity of techniques: furniture, ceramics, glass, tapestries, art objects, rare exotic objects, fashion and accessory collections, from the 18th century to today. If you are staying at the Nhow Hotel (which I talk about in my article on my selection of accommodations in Marseille), it’s a good cultural outing idea because it is located about a 20-30 min walk from the hotel, and it is quite pleasant to go there via Parc Borély.
Museum of Decorative Arts, Earthenware and Fashion
Château Borély, 132 Avenue Clot Bey, 13008 Marseille
Open Tuesday–Sunday, 9am–6pm.Temporary exhibitions: prices vary by exhibition; free for under-18s and European Union students aged 18–26. Permanent collections are free.
The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections
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Visit the Cantini Museum
We stumbled upon this city museum completely by chance, housed in a very beautiful 17th-century private mansion. This place was bought in the 19th century by Jules Cantini (art lover and sculptor), who donated it to the city of Marseille in 1916 so that it could become a museum dedicated to modern art. The museum therefore presents a broad panorama of modern art from the 20th century. It highlights some artistic movements like post-impressionism, fauvism, cubism, surrealism… The museum also holds many works on loan from other institutions such as the Centre Pompidou or the CNAP.
Cantini Museum
19 Rue Grignan, 13006 Marseille
The tip: free admission for all for the permanent collections
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Visit the Regards de Provence Museum
This museum, housed in a former 1948 maritime health station converted into a cultural venue in 2013, celebrated its 5th anniversary in 2018. It is located right next to the magnificent La Major Cathedral and also opposite the MuCEM.
Regards de Provence Museum
Allée Regards de Provence (facing the J4 esplanade) 13002 Marseille
open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00Prices: €8.50 full price; reduced rates from €3.50 to €7.50 depending on eligibility. Free up to age 12 and with the CityPass.
The tip: guided tour on the first Saturday of the month at 10.30am, by reservation, at no extra cost with a full-price admission ticket.
CityPass tip: admission is free with the CityPass
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My shopping favorites in Marseille
Below you will find a small selection of great places for your shopping in Marseille and to bring back some local products.
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Le Comptoir O Huiles
While walking in Le Panier, we discovered the Comptoir O Huiles boutique, which, as its name suggests, is specialized in olive oil. You can have a meal there or simply taste different quality oils. A beautiful place for all lovers of the product (dipping a piece of bread in good oil, there is nothing better!).
Comptoir O Huiles
38 Rue Sainte Françoise 13002 Marseille
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Where to get a real pair of Marseille espadrilles? Espigas
At the origin of this beautiful project that was born in 2013 is a couple who wanted to make Marseille espadrilles. Quick reminder: basically, espadrilles are worker shoes with rope soles. At Espigas, everything is manufactured in Marseille with recycled cotton, and then the brand works with a dyer for the different colors and patterns of the shoes. There is a single boutique located in Marseille near the Old Port, and the shoes are also available for sale online on the brand’s website. The brand also has several shoe collections: classic espadrilles (with a great choice of patterns and colors!); trainers; sneakers; slippers.
For my part, I obviously left with a pair of espadrilles! My first, because I had never had any. I wore them in Marseille before autumn really arrived, and I must say they are particularly comfortable.
Espigas
3 Cours Jean Ballard 13001 Marseille
Price for a pair of espadrilles: from 59 €
My gourmet favorites in Marseille
As usual, you will find below my selection of great places in Marseille (restaurants) that we have had the opportunity to test during our various stays with the favorite photographer. These places often offer a chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you are visiting the PACA region. The exception is Chez Étienne, where Nicolas went without me. The dishes, prices and service information below are those recorded during these visits, whose dates I give when I know them; they are not an updated menu.
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Where to buy navettes in Marseille? Le Four des navettes
This address, located a stone’s throw from the Saint-Victor Abbey (see above in the article) and which we discovered by chance after our visit to the monument, is apparently a Marseille institution since it has existed since 1781. I bought a bag of 12 navettes (price 12 €). I thought it was a bit expensive at the time, but that was before discovering that they were really very big (I was expecting a smaller size). And after tasting them, I fully endorse the address, and their navettes are delicious!
Tested in 2023
Le Four des navettes
136 rue Sainte 13007 Marseille
CityPass tip: tasting and discount
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Where to eat cheap in Marseille? Les Bavards Opéra
This small address, opened in 2021, offers Parisian-style bouillon cuisine, meaning it offers classic French dishes at low prices. In October 2023, it was possible to eat a starter, main course, and dessert for 16.90 €!!! For our part, we took advantage of the Indian summer this month of October 2023 to sit on the small terrace in front of the restaurant and enjoy the last beautiful days. The address is ideally located a stone’s throw from the Old Port and in the Opera district (hence its name). It is a very good choice if you want to eat for cheap and quite adequately.
We tasted: egg mayo and zucchini-mint soup for starters; croque monsieur with fries and salad (11.90 €) and salad of the moment, a Niçoise salad (13.90 €), and for dessert, the homemade apple compote with speculoos (3.90 €); Les Bavards wines, white and rosé (4.50 € per glass).
Tested in 2023
Les Bavards Opéra
25 Rue Glandeves, 13001 Marseille
open only for lunch
Price: starter at 3.50 € and starter of the day at 2.50 € / main courses between 11.90 € and 13.90 € / desserts 3.90 € and dessert of the day 2.50 € / glass of wine between 3.50 € and 4.50 € / coffee 1.80 €
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Where to have a bistronomic lunch in Marseille? Restaurant Cédrat
This very beautiful address is run by a couple of chefs! At lunch, it’s Mama Kyuna who treats us to her world cuisine, fresh and perfectly executed. In the evening, the concept is different and it’s Éric Maillet who is in charge (but we for our part tested the restaurant at lunch, so I won’t be able to tell you about it). We had a crush on this address and loved the very beautiful, shaded, and charming patio that is hidden at the back of the establishment.
We tasted: roasted zucchini with white sauce, green oil, herbs, and almonds; hummus with caramelized onions, kalou oil, salad burnet, and sesame; slow-cooked pork with caramel; perfect egg with braised leeks and baby potatoes; for dessert, a chocolate fondant with tonka ganache; very nice non-alcoholic drink, a homemade lemonade (5 €).
Tested in 2023
Restaurant Cédrat
81 rue de Breteuil
Lunch price: starter + main or main + dessert 24 € / starter + main + dessert 28 €
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A food-court in Marseille? Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port
This food-court (Marseille’s 1st!) installed near the Old Port opened its doors in 2022 in a completely renovated space. It is managed by a Marseille-based SME, totally independent (and not by a large group, which is always good to know). Here, no table service: you choose your dishes from one of the 12 stalls (there is something for everyone): Nonna Mina, an Italian; the Serre végé (platters between 23 € and 25 €); le Canon, which is also a wine cellar (between 300 and 500 references of wines) and which offers masterclasses from le Canon twice a month; a mixology bar that is open from 18:00; la rôtisserie de la garde; la Cave à Jambon des Halles; 500 degrés, which makes Neapolitan pizzas (prices between 9 € and 22 €); la Gamelle sandwich; les Coquillages Claude (La Claude platter, which we took: 20 €); La Vallée du Liban (plates between 15 € and 17 € / sandwiches 7 €); la Gourmande (a sweet stall)…
There are spaces to sit inside, but I especially advise you to take advantage of the 500-seat terrace installed in front of the establishment and in the middle of the Cours d’Estienne d’Orve. Regarding prices, it remains quite accessible since it is mostly street-food.
Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port
30 Cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, 13001 Marseille
Open 364 days/365 and 7 days/7
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Where to eat Italian in Marseille? La Cantinetta
This nice Italian restaurant is located on the Cours Julien and it offers very good Italian dishes (pasta, risotto…) with 100% Italian products. I also recommend it because at the back of the restaurant, you will find a charming patio far from the hustle and bustle of the street. An Italian address not to be missed in Marseille.
Tested in 2023
La Cantinetta
24 cours Julien 13006 MarseilleOpen Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner
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Where to eat on the terrace at Cours d’Estienne D’Orve in Marseille? Olea
This beautiful terrace installed on the Cours d’Estienne D’Orve opened recently. The setting and decor of the terrace are very cozy and decorated with olive trees, and the menu focuses on Mediterranean products.
To taste: for starters to share, panisses (7 €) and fried prawns with angel hair with a lemon-herb mayonnaise (14 €); the artichoke carpaccio, a light and fresh dish for the summer season (17 €); the Oléa escalope, a breaded veal escalope with a cheese cream (23 €).
Tested in 2023
Olea
8 Rue Euthymènes, 13001 Marseille
Price: main courses between 17 € and 32 €
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Where to eat pizza in Le Panier? Chez Etienne
I haven’t been myself, but my favorite photographer had the opportunity to taste with our friend Borey from the Pleaz blog this atmosphere typical of a casual restaurant, generous with its pizzas and its pieces of meat. It is difficult to describe the deafening but lively noise that reigns in the room. The latter is filled with photos of celebrities from the cinema, singing, and politicians. Success has its price, so you have to be patient if you haven’t reserved because the line is long! But if you want to taste traditional comforting cuisine and a restaurant atmosphere like you don’t really see anymore, it’s at Étienne’s that you’ll find all that.
Small detail that has its importance: credit cards are not accepted… nothing is more traditional than that!
Tested in 2018
Chez Étienne Restaurant
43 Rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille
open every day except Sunday from noon to 14:00 and from 20:00 to 23:00
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Where to eat seafood in Le Panier? Entre Terre et Mer
I also recommend a good address to go eat at the restaurant Entre Terre et Mer in the Le Panier district. Ideal for having a seafood platter to share on the terrace in rue du Panier.
Entre Terre et Mer Restaurant
13 rue du Panier 13002 Marseille
open lunch and dinner every day except Monday, Tuesday lunch, and Wednesday lunch
every day in July and August
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Where to eat in Marseille on the Old Port? Le Fioupelan
This beautiful address at the Old Port is an exception in a neighborhood where it is difficult to find quality restaurants… In this fish restaurant, in addition to the magnificent view of Notre-Dame de la Garde (which I told you about above), you will find plates that are very well made and prepared with well-sourced products (Mediterranean fish, seasonal and local products…). And then the little extra that doesn’t spoil anything: the address also has a very beautiful terrace with a view of the “Bonne Mère”.
We tasted: sea bream ceviche with peach (18.90 €); the Fioupelan Aioli (23.90 €); linguini with beef chuck shredded after 7 hours of cooking with its cooking juices (23.90 €); homemade snickers (8.50 €).
Tested in 2023
Fioupelan
62 quai du Port, 13002 Marseille
Price: starter between 7.90 € and 18.90 € / main courses between 16.90 € and 34.90 € / desserts between 7.50 € and 9.50 €
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Where to have a retro evening in Marseille? Flashback Café (updated 2026: closed)
This address plunges us into the 90s! Their cocktails are very good and not very expensive (between 8 € and 8.50 €), and I recommend that you try the Flashback Mule if you like it. The address also has a very nice selection of craft beers (because before, the previous address installed here was precisely a beer bar). There is also another address with this concept in Toulouse that opened at the same time.
We tasted as tapas: panisses and aioli (6 €); fries (5 €); nachos (9 €); mini croque-monsieur (6 €).
Flashback Café Marseille (updated 2026: permanently closed)
4 rue de la République 13001 Marseille
Price: cocktails 8.50€ / tapas between 5€ and 7€ and platters between 15€ and 24€
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A cocktail bar in Marseille? Carry Nation
This chain has 3 cocktail bars in the south, including a hidden and clandestine bar in the center of Marseille. And it is really a very good cocktail bar address. The favorite photographer surprised me by taking me there for my birthday, and we had a great time. You enter through a closet in this hidden bar that offers a journey back in time to the era of prohibition. Here, booking is mandatory, and the address is only revealed to you after you have booked. A really very nice address where I even blew out my birthday “candle” on a cocktail.
Tested in 2023
Carry Nation
Secret address 13006 Marseille
My accommodation favorites in Marseille: where to stay?
Across our stays in Marseille, I particularly recommend these two addresses that we tested. To discover all my favourite addresses and other neighbourhoods, check out my full selection of hotels in Marseille.
Mama Shelter Marseille
We stayed at the Mama Shelter Marseille, a 3-star hotel located near the trendy Cours Julien district. The atmosphere is friendly, the bedding very comfortable, and the breakfast buffet features local products and loose-leaf tea.
Mama Shelter Marseille
64 Rue de la Loubière, 13006 MarseilleLink to book a hotel room For a more transparent world…If you book a room by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you 🙂
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Hotel La Maison Montgrand
Located a few minutes’ walk from the Old Port, this charming 3-star hotel is housed in a handsome mansion with a peaceful interior garden, a concept store, and a tea room.
Hotel La Maison Montgrand
35 Rue Montgrand, 13006 MarseilleLink to book a hotel room For a more transparent world…If you book a room by clicking on this link, a small commission will be paid directly to us by the site. This has no effect on the price you pay, but in return you support the blog and help it grow. Up to you 🙂
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Practical questions
The CityPass can be useful if several of its visits interest you, but I would not recommend it automatically. The permanent collections of municipal museums are free. The pass offers a choice between the crossing to the islands and Cosquer: you cannot combine both activities.
During our October 2023 visit, we ate at Bavards Opéra, which offered classic dishes at low prices. I also describe our visit to Grandes Halles du Vieux Port. The meal prices in the article are kept as a record of our stay, not as current prices.
For gourmet treats, a mandatory stop at Four des navettes (the institution has existed since 1781!). For fashion, fall for a real pair of Marseille espadrilles made with recycled cotton at Espigas.
If you like original experiences, definitely book at Carry Nation. It is a hidden (clandestine) cocktail bar on the theme of prohibition, whose secret address is only revealed to you after the booking. You enter through a closet!
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover or rediscover Marseille, and if you also have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization mandatory before any use
