I am back between the Cavalon and Durance valleys, in the heart of the Luberon Massif, in Provence, amidst those picturesque and colorful villages that seduced me so much last year (see my article on my social holidays in the Luberon VTF village). This time, it is through the lens of wine and vineyards that I set out to discover this lovely corner of France.
First, a quick historical reminder: as in most cases in France, it was as early as antiquity in the Gallo-Roman era that we see vines appearing in the region. The Celts, the Romans (and thus the Gallo-Romans) were great consumers of this drink, even if ancient wine, let us remember, is far from what we consume today (can you feel my inner archaeologist coming to the surface?). The Middle Ages kept this tradition alive, and the vineyard has grown to this day.
It was also following the modernization of their facilities that the Luberon winemakers obtained the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1988. This mountain appellation (yes, really, because the vines are on terroirs between 200 and 450 m above sea level!) has the particularity of being located entirely within the Luberon Regional Natural Park, located in the Vaucluse department.
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Table of Contents
A small selection of Luberon wines to bring home in your suitcase
A little bit of information for wine lovers, but neophytes like me: an AOC Luberon wine must be made from a blend of several grape varieties (a bit like Bordeaux wines, really).
- The plot-based selections AOC Luberon Blanc Doria (€7.80 per bottle) and Grand Marrenon (€9.10 per bottle) from the Marrenon cooperative union, which brings together 1,200 vineyards in the Luberon and Ventoux.
- The wines of Château Val Joanis, an estate set on the site of an ancient Gallo-Roman villa.
- The Alphonse cuvée in white and rosé from the Domaine de Fontenille (which I will tell you about more specifically just below).
- Domaine Les Vadons in Cucuron, organic wines.
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Staying at the Domaine de Fontenille
This magnificent 18th-century bastide, surrounded by a century-old landscaped park, was recently taken over by Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher, who completely renovated it to make it an exceptional place that you absolutely must discover if you are passing through the area. The property now houses a luxury hotel, but also 2 restaurants, an art gallery, and a wine estate. The establishment tastefully blends a classic style with more modern touches, through the magnificent collection of contemporary works that harmonize with the place.
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My room No. 11
The hotel has a total of 17 charming rooms and suites, each with a unique atmosphere. An enchanting and very pleasant scent of cedar permeates the entire hotel, in homage to the majestic trees in the estate’s park. My room had a King Size bed with incredible bedding, a shower that could hold at least 10 people (we didn’t test it, but you get the idea…), and a delicious tray of fruit to welcome us. In short, when you stay at the Domaine de Fontenille, you only have one desire: to come back…
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The gourmet restaurant, Le Champ des Lunes
At the helm of the Domaine’s two restaurants is a chef who has held a Michelin star for 8 years, Jérôme Faure, who earned a new star in 2017 for the restaurant Le Champ des Lunes. The menu, which changes every week, is centered around seasonal products and the Luberon terroir. Plus, the chef also has his own organic vegetable garden on the estate, the vegetables from which are used to create dishes for both restaurants, and a henhouse from which he collects eggs. Pretty nice, right?!
The wine list gives pride of place to Provence and the Rhône Valley, so it will be an opportunity to test not only the estate’s wines, of course, but also, more broadly, those of the Luberon.
Le Champs des Lunes Restaurant
open Monday to Sunday lunch and dinner
Price: menus between €27 and €105_
La Cuisine d’Amélie Restaurant
If the prices at the gourmet restaurant are a little too high for your budget, don’t hesitate to enjoy the place anyway through La Cuisine d’Amélie, the more affordable bistro at the estate, which is located on the south terraces of the bastide.
La Cuisine d'Amélie Restaurant
open Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner
Price: tapas menu between €7 and €14_
The Wine Estate
The wine estate is historical on this site, since the estate’s first vines were mentioned on the land registry as early as 1638. Around the 90s, the Domaine even had a very good reputation in the field, as it was listed in the Parker Guide. The restructuring of the Domaine started in 2013 aims to restore its historical prestige while moving towards organic farming of the vines. Today, the vineyard has 35 hectares.
The vineyard consists of grape varieties characteristic of the Luberon: Syrah, Grenache Noir and Blanc, Vermentino. But also of grape varieties less common in the region, for the production of special vintages: Viognier, Petite Syrah, Mourvèdre,… On the other side of the road, you can discover the tasting and sales shop of 140 m2 (which allows you to see the vinification cellars through a large window) and the estate’s vines. In addition, the cellar is also open for visits upon request.
The great tip: you can take advantage of your stay at the estate to learn about oenology, through an educational path in the vines, as well as workshops and tastings.
To bring back: obviously, if you pass by the Domaine, I encourage you to bring one or more small bottles back from your stay. Fontenille’s production is mainly made up of rosés (50%), but you will also find reds (35%) or whites (15%).
For a little tip, the 2014 vintage rosé is very easy to drink and it has already been awarded several times.
Price: between €9 and €18 per bottle individually
The shop is open every day from 10 am to 6:30 pm during the summer period and from Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 am to 12:30 pm and from 1:30 pm to 6 pm during the winter period
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And finally, not to be missed, take a dip in the beautiful heated outdoor swimming pool (open from 9 am to 9 pm every day) of the establishment, a magnificent place for lounging that you won’t want to leave…
The little extra: every evening you find in your room a small card with the next day’s weather, a small Provençal proverb, and the breakfast menu which changes every day.
Breakfast (€19): it is served on the terrace on sunny days from 7 am to 10 am.
Strawberry juice, fig and grape salad, cow’s milk curd and basil tomatoes, bresaola, homemade chocolate cake, a basket of bread and croissants, a hot drink of your choice
Domaine de Fontenille Route de Roquefraiche 84360 Lauris The essential extra: free Wi-Fi internet access Room rates: between €180 and €450
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Apt Market, Luberon
If you are passing through the Luberon, the town of Apt is a must-visit. I advise you to stroll through the small alleyways of the town and wander around the many stalls of its market, it smells good and it is beautiful! This market, which takes place on Saturday morning, brings together many producers and it is the ideal time to do some shopping and bring back some specialties. Another little tip: a short visit to the Musée de l’Aventure Industrielle du pays d’Apt (Museum of the Industrial Adventure of the Apt Country), which allows you to discover the history of the region and its inhabitants in the industrial era through the key activities of the region: candied fruits, earthenware, and ochre mining.
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The Sylla cooperative winery
This cooperative winery has existed since 1925 and obviously sells the region’s wine production. You can also buy bulk wine there in red (AOP Luberon at €2.25 per liter), white, but also rosé.
The interesting idea: the cellar offers you the chance to become a winemaker by proxy by buying a share of vines of 500m2 (€1000). You will thus receive a case of 6 bottles every year + invitations to events centered around wine + access to the Sylla shareholders’ club.
I also strongly advise you to take your lunch break on site because the cellar has a dedicated restaurant area, La Fromagerie Gourmande. On the menu are formulas combining gourmet plates with quality products, in harmony with the cellar’s wines, of course. For my part, I tested the large plate formula with an assortment of 8 cheeses accompanied by salad (€19.50). Knowing that the formula also includes a dessert, a coffee, and the tasting of 3 different wines.
La Cave Sylla 406 avenue de Lançon 84400 Apt in summer open every day from 10 am to 7 pm (except Sunday from 9 am to 1 pm) in winter open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 6:30 pm (no catering in January and February)
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Visiting the Blachère Foundation, art center
This Jean-Paul Blachère corporate foundation works for the development of contemporary African art, through temporary exhibitions with artists in residence, but also with a shop that sells solidarity-based handicrafts.
The great tip: admission is free and open to all!
Blachère Foundation 384, avenue des argiles ZI les Bourguignons 84400 Apt Exhibition on Wim Botha, South African artist, from May 26 to October 1, 2016
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Taking a tour in Cucuron, Luberon
This typical little village nestled in the heart of the Regional Park is well worth the detour! Moreover, its magnificent roofs, its belfry, and its ramparts curiously reminded me of memories, and this for the simple reason that parts of one of my favorite films, “The Horseman on the Roof” (Le Hussard sur le toit), meant to take place in Manosque, were actually filmed here. If you stop by, you absolutely must make a gourmet stop at Eric Sapet‘s table, the Petite Maison de Cucuron (Place de l’Etang 84160 Cucuron, open all year from Wednesday lunch to Sunday dinner).
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Small contest for the fastest reader:
I am offering you a gift voucher to benefit from discounts in November 2016 at the Domaine de Fontenille that I mentioned a little above.
- – 20% on the rate of a room only
- – 15% on Spa treatments
- + a delicate welcome in your room
For this, I will make it a little simpler than usual: the first motivated comment asking me for this prize will win it!
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover the Luberon and its wines, and if you also have your own tips and favorite addresses for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find below all my articles on the Luberon in Provence:
⇒ All my articles on the Luberon
⇒ All my articles on the PACA region
MY ARTICLES ON THE LUBERON
⇒ VTF Luberon Village (2015)
⇒ Discovery of Luberon wines (2016)
⇒ Madame Vacances Provence Country Club Residence (2017)
⇒ Getaway in the Luberon (2019)
Photo credits: Mademoiselle Bon Plan with the Kodak PixPro AZ526 Photos not copyright-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
