I think I’m eventually going to become a specialist in cycling discovery trips! Last year, I suggested you explore Normandy by bike (Normandie à vélo), and this year, I tackled the Avenue Verte London-Paris (only partially, though) over 5 days last May.
For this journey, I was accompanied by my favorite photographer, but also by a great team of bloggers: Culturez-Vous, Les Baroudeurs, Le blog de Sarah, La boucle voyageuse, and Un pied dans les nuages.
The Avenue Verte London-Paris is a cycling route of 520 km connecting the cities of Paris and London, passing through many regions in France as well as in England. Of course, we didn’t do the whole route by bike. Firstly, we didn’t have the time for that in 5 days, and secondly, I don’t think I have the physical fitness for it either…
There are 2 different routes for the French section:
- the first, which is longer, passes by the banks of the Oise (472 km)
- the second, slightly shorter (406 km), follows the Epte Valley
For our part, we discovered a few sections of the long route (the first one) passing along the banks of the Oise.
I will therefore strive to give you some ideas for activities and places to visit along the course, with, as usual, a selection of my top picks!
Given the amount of material I had on the subject, I decided to split the topic into 2 articles:
- a first article with an itinerary in France
- a second article to come with the itinerary in England
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Table of Contents
Logistics, Avenue Verte Paris-London
As with my trip to Normandy last year, we left with Hugo from Petite Reine Normandie, who took care of transporting the bikes as well as their happy passengers from one stage of the route to the next. With good humor and professionalism as always (even in pouring rain!).
Bike rentals were arranged via Loc Vélo Normandie, and we had very lightweight mountain bikes (so, not electric, but you can’t have everything in life).
Rental price per day: between €17 and €39 depending on the type of bike (and sliding scale based on the number of days, between €95 and €220 for a week)
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Stage 1: Ile-de-France, France
Living in Paris, we naturally started from the outskirts of the capital with a few stops in the Ile-de-France region, which I will describe below.
Plaine Commune Grand Paris Seine-Saint-Denis / Visit to the Street Art Avenue in Saint-Denis
The Street Art Avenue stretches along the Saint-Denis Canal between La Villette and the Stade de France, passing through Aubervilliers, featuring numerous works by street artists (Seth, Tarek Benaoum, Zest, Polar, Telmo Miel…).
This route is an open-air gallery launched in 2016 that showcases urban art, making it a forerunner in the arrival of street art in Paris. You can find all the information about the works and artists on the Street Art Avenue website if you are interested.
The Tip: You can take a free, self-guided tour of the Street Art Avenue yourself or book a guided walking or cycling tour, as we did.
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Hauts-de-Seine / Visit the Petite Couronne craft brewery
This independent craft brewery in the Hauts-de-Seine has existed since November 2017. You can visit its production site located in Colombes (check opening hours beforehand), which is always very interesting if you love craft beers, of course.
Positive point: the brewery’s waste is recycled in partnership with the Hauts-de-Seine department.
The brewery offers beer specialties made with bottom fermentation: lager (light beers, therefore). You can even place your order online and then head to the brewery to pick up your beers!
Petite Couronne Craft Brewery 273 Rue Gabriel Péri, 92700 Colombes
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The Yvelines
I really like this department, which I have explored quite a bit (you can find all my articles on the subject right here). As with every stop, I offer a few ideas for things to do and a selection of top addresses, tested on-site.
Lunch on the Île des Impressionnistes at the Restaurant Fournaise
In this historic spot, you are truly transported into the footsteps of the Impressionists. Indeed, in the 19th century, this guinguette (open-air café) attracted many painters, as well as crowds who came to dance “around Paris.” The restaurant perfectly recreates the setting of the time, and we took a little trip back in time during our lunch.
A small anecdote: the restaurant’s terrace overlooking the Seine serves as the setting for the famous painting “The Luncheon of the Boating Party” by Renoir.
As for the menu, you’ll find well-executed traditional French cuisine with quality products.
Cycling Tip: You can arrive at the restaurant by bike by taking the Promenade Bleue, a cycle path that passes right next to the establishment, crossing, in particular, the Pierre Lagravère departmental park.
Restaurant Fournaise Île des Impressionnistes 3 rue du Bac, 78400 Chatou Price: weekday daily menu with starter + main course + dessert for €38.50 (€42 on weekends)
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Saint-Germain-en-Laye / Visit the town and the castle
I already know the town well, and I actually wrote an article about the getaway we had in Saint-Germain in 2016. The Castle, which houses the National Archaeology Museum, is obviously a must-see!
My Tip: If you don’t have time to visit the museum, I suggest entering the inner courtyard (accessible for free) to admire the building’s superb architecture.
If you go for a walk in the gardens (also accessible for free), I suggest going to the end of the terrace to admire the beautiful view of the surroundings. And in passing, you will even find on the right a World War II bunker hidden in a residential courtyard…
At the end, you will also see on the right the Hotel Restaurant Le Pavillon Henri IV, located on the site of the Château Neuf, which was dismantled during the Revolution. It is said, moreover, that it is here that Louis XIV was born. It is also here that Bearnaise sauce and pommes soufflées (puffed potatoes) were supposedly invented in 1837, the local specialties.
Another fun little anecdote: the vines replanted below in 2000 are maintained by the towns of Saint-Germain-en-Laye and Le Pecq and produce, in small quantities, the Vin des Grottes (Wine of the Caves).
The Tip: This Vin des Grottes is not sold but offered at the tourist office when you buy a gift basket.
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The Val d’Oise
We stay in Ile-de-France but change departments with a visit to Val d’Oise (95), which is located just above the Yvelines (78) that we just left.
The Axe Majeur in Cergy
Our visit to Cergy was quick, but memorable (we got caught in a good hailstorm)! Because of the weather, we couldn’t do the Zippy Bike activity that was initially planned, so we strolled between the Amphitheater and the Cergy-Pontoise Leisure Center. Passing in particular over the superb bright red footbridge that spans the pond to reach the Astronomical Island.
This ensemble constitutes the Axe Majeur, a monumental work designed by Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan and realized between the 80s and 2000s.
It’s a short walk I advise you to take on foot or by bike, because the view is absolutely sublime and the perspectives are incredible! As you might expect, the favorite photographer had a field day!
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Stopover in Auvers-sur-Oise
This charming village is located in the Oise valley and in the Vexin park. It welcomes 250,000 visitors per year thanks to tourists’ interest in the life of Van Gogh, who died here in 1890. Indeed, many artists came to paint in Auvers in the 19th century, thanks in particular to the presence of Doctor Gachet, who created real emulation at the time.
As I have already written a very complete article (well, I hope!) on Auvers-sur-Oise, I will let you take a look at it for more historical explanations about Van Gogh in particular. But you will also find all the points of interest and sites to visit in the village and its surroundings.
A small novelty, we obviously did a tour of the town, but by bike of course, and I must say that it is particularly convenient, especially to get to the cemetery (where Vincent Van Gogh and his brother Théo are buried), which is a bit far from the town center.
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Where to sleep in Auvers-sur-Oise? Hôtel des Iris
This brand-new 3-star charming hotel of good standing with only 8 rooms & suites opened last March. The establishment is housed in a former post office that has been completely restored.
For our part, we were in the hotel’s large suite. A sublime room with high ceilings and a magnificent bathtub. However, I only recommend this room for couples who have passed a certain level of intimacy, because the toilets are not isolated from the room; they are just hidden behind a small recess… romance guaranteed…
Special mention for the very good breakfast, prepared with quality products! And it’s worth noting because it’s often what’s lacking in hotels, I find.
Hôtel des Iris 21 rue du Général de Gaulle 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise Price: from €89 per night For info, the hotel is also a Tea Room every day from 7:30 am to 11:30 am and from 2:30 pm to 6 pm
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Where to eat in Auvers-sur-Oise? Restaurant L’Atelier Gourmand
This restaurant offers a menu with burgers and crepes, but I would especially recommend this address for its burgers since it has been participating in the Coupe de France du Burger by Socopa for 2 years.
L'Atelier Gourmand 11 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise Price: Set menu at €24 with starter + main course + dessert
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Stage 2: Hauts-de-France / Oise
The Avenue Verte route that passes along the banks of the Oise continues into the Hauts-de-France and in particular in the Oise department. For info, you will find all my articles on this region right here.
Chantilly
This department is at the gates of Ile-de-France, and Chantilly is, as you know, a destination I appreciate a lot. Now located in the new Hauts-de-France region, this area retains a still very marked Picard identity, as we were able to observe during our time there.
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Visit the Château de Chantilly and the Stables
I have already written 2 quite complete articles about the Château de Chantilly, and a 3rd one is actually also planned, so I’ll let you look at them if you want to know more and get some visit advice on-site.
I also recommend you inquire about the “Nature” equestrian show at the Great Stables of Chantilly, which can be an interesting activity idea.
The horses belong to the Foundation, live in the stables, and are taken out regularly. I learned in particular that it takes at least 3 years of work to break in a horse (that is to say, to train it).
Nature show at the Great Stables
Until November 2019
Prices: €21 / €17 reduced_
Where to eat? Restaurant Le Vertugadin
This very good address in Chantilly is worth the detour as much for the quality of its cuisine as for the temperament of its owner, Michaël Ejzenbaum, whom you could listen to for hours talking about Chantilly cream, of which he is a Knight of the Brotherhood!
To taste: the Picardy chicken liver terrine; blood sausage with two apples; tagliatelle with parmesan cream; strawberry puff pastry with the famous Chantilly cream…
After our meal, we even had the right to a short lesson and a demonstration centered on Chantilly cream. Indeed, this delicious preparation is famous all over the world, and its history is linked to Chantilly, as it is said that its cradle was the Hamlet and Dairy of the Prince of Condé (who resided at the Château de Chantilly). The creation of the latter dates back to the 18th century.
And since October 6, 2019, the Brotherhood of the Whippers of Chantilly Cream also organizes Chantilly cream lessons at the Domaine de Chantilly.
Restaurant Le Vertugadin 44 Rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly Price: menu with starter + main course + dessert at €32 My advice: In terms of drinks, I recommend you try the local Gustave beer which is very good!
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Stage 3: Normandy, France
I am almost Norman. Indeed, I have spent so much time in Normandy (to my greatest delight, obviously!) over these last 2 years that I feel a bit at home when I pass through this beautiful, varied region, with its always-enticing gastronomy. In the same way, I already have quite a few articles on the blog on the subject.
The Eure and the Vexin Normand
It is a department that I know rather well because we had, in particular, done a road-trip with the favorite photographer last year.
In this region, the Avenue Verte is laid out on the former railroad track. It’s funny because it’s exactly the same thing in Quebec if you remember my article on the Laurentians.
Cycling tip: in the region, there is a cargo bike that travels to meet cyclists and hikers to give them water and information about the department’s greenways.
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The Château de Gisors
Gisors is the capital of the Vexin Normand, and its castle is a place closely linked to the history of Normandy. It was indeed a strategic place because of the passage not far from the river Epte, which is an important natural border.
In the center of the castle site, there is an ancient motte-and-bailey castle built in 1097, which is very well preserved. This medieval fortress is also a very beautiful example of 12th-century military architecture.
At the beginning, it was an Anglo-Norman castle, since it was William Rufus, one of William the Conqueror‘s sons, who had it built. Subsequently, the French and English long rivaled to hold this stronghold.
Today, you can see on the site a succession of several castles, the construction of which spanned from the 11th to the 16th centuries.
There is also an incredible story in the village surrounding the search for a Templar treasure after the Second World War, which I advise you to have told to you by one of the site’s guides during a guided tour. These tours are actually really exciting!
Moreover, the guided tours also allow you to discover parts not accessible during a free visit, such as the top of the motte-and-bailey castle or the underground passages.
Château de Gisors Place de Blanmont, 27140 Gisors The site is accessible for free / price for guided tours €5 per person Daily guided tours from Monday to Friday from October to March and 7/7 days from April to September
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The Seine-Maritime, Normandy
We change departments again with the Seine-Maritime, which I had already traveled a bit by bike last year. In the first part of our journey in this department, we were in the very hilly region called the Pays de Bray.
Pays de Bray / Forges-les-Eaux
The name of this town comes from the fact that the Romans found iron in the subsoil in antiquity. Until the 15th century, iron was worked at Forges-les-Eaux, until the minerals began to run out.
Small anecdote: Anne of Austria supposedly came here with Louis XIII to get pregnant (because virtues were attributed to the town’s springs), and a few months after her stay, she gave birth to Louis XIV…
Then it was in the 19th century that the spa town of Forges-les-Eaux developed greatly. It then became a hospital town during the First World War with the Red Cross for men and the Blue Cross for animals.
Today the town is no longer a spa resort, but the Forges Hôtel where we stayed is still dedicated to well-being and balneotherapy. If you stay in this establishment, I strongly advise you to take advantage of the view in the morning in the breakfast room but also of the Spa in the evening to relax after a good day of cycling!
If you come here for treatment, you can take advantage of the surroundings to go for ecological and forest walks.
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Pays de Bray / Neufchâtel
If you are in the area, I strongly recommend you make a gourmet stop at the Ferme des Fontaines.
Indeed, Neufchâtel is one of the oldest Norman cheeses, as its creation dates back to before 1035. It is also one of the 4 AOP cheeses of Normandy that I had already mentioned to you in my article on the AOC/AOP festival in Cambremer.
For the production of this cheese, good quality milk is used, 60% of which comes from Norman breed cows. Farmhouse Neufchâtel produces cheeses that must be made only with milk from a farm’s own cows. There are 6 shapes of Neufchâtel cheeses including the 2 hearts (which are the most well-known), and this specific shape is a legacy of the Hundred Years’ War.
There is a draining and pressing phase for the manufacture of Neufchâtel, then it will take between 10 days and up to 1 year before you can eat it! Then it’s according to taste.
At the Neufchâtel Farm, the 95 cows of the operation are in pasture at least 6 months of the year and produce 85 tons of cheese per year. The farm then sells its cheeses directly on-site or at the Neufchâtel market but also in Rouen and even as far as Le Havre!
Ferme des Fontaines
427 route de Gaillefontaine GAEC Brianchon 76270 Nesle-Hodeng
The tip: the farm organizes one-hour guided tours on request with cheese tastings at the end!_
Where to eat in Pays de Bray? / Les Tables de la Gare
What would a trip to Normandy be without tasting a good Norman galette?… You can stop with your eyes closed at Les Tables de la Gare for lunch for this. The establishment, housed in a former station as its name suggests, also offers a delicatessen corner with a nice selection of local products.
I advise you to taste the farmhouse cider (€2.90 for a bowl) and the local farmhouse beer (the Northmaen / €3.50 for the 33cl bottle), which are delicious!
Les Tables de la Gare
Rue de la Gare, 76270 Neufchâtel-en-Bray
Price of galettes: between €7 and €11.90_
Dieppe / The crossing to Newhaven
It was in Dieppe that we went to take the Ferry to England. It was my first time in this port city, and we took advantage of our quick stop to take a little stroll on the port and by the sea.
We were also lucky enough to witness the arrival of the Hermione in the port of Dieppe. This boat is the reconstruction of the Marquis de La Fayette’s frigate. Strange coincidence because we just saw the Hermione again in July in Rochefort with the favorite photographer, but I will talk to you about it in another article…
The English Channel crossing lasts 4 hours, and you have to be there about 2 hours in advance to get on the ferry. In other words, you almost feel like you’re going to catch a plane in terms of wait time…
This crossing actually reminded me of my school trip to London when I was in middle school (that was a long time ago!) during which I had been forced to go up on deck so as not to be too sick… Fortunately, this time, everything went very well, and I didn’t need to do that to handle the journey well.
It is on this ferry that I end the French part of this adventure on the Avenue Verte London-Paris, and I look forward to seeing you in my next article, which will present the English part of our itinerary.
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Thanks to the Avenue Verte London-Paris and to Clémence from the aiRPur Agency for this beautiful adventure, as well as to all the territories through which we passed!
I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to discover the Avenue Verte London-Paris, and if you also have your own good tips and advice for this itinerary, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
