The last time I set foot in Turkey was over 10 years ago. Back then, I discovered the complex, sprawling beauty of Istanbul, a megalopolis among megalopolises with a history as rich as Rome’s. In 2022, I headed toward new horizons, across the Bosphorus (in Anatolia) for a road-trip-style journey from the Northwest to the Southwest of Turkey. My trip never took me very far from the Aegean Sea, and its goal was to learn more about the ancient culture of olive oil, while also discovering the territory’s ancient wonders and its rich gastronomy. This guiding thread allowed me, alongside international journalists, to roam the sumptuous ruins of Ephesus, touch a 3,200-year-old olive tree, and taste numerous culinary specialties.
It is about this journey that I will talk to you in this article, following a logic by province (Izmir in the North, Aydın in the “middle,” and Muğla in the South). Each time, I will tell you what you can do on-site, with my recommendations for where to sleep and where to eat.
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Table of Contents
Visiting the Izmir Province
I arrived by plane from Istanbul at Izmir airport to start my journey in the Northwest of Anatolia (the Asian part of Turkey) through the province of the same name as the city, which is a must-visit destination for history lovers. Izmir possesses genuine archaeological treasures, housing the remains of ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine cities. It is also a province rich in beautiful landscapes and good spots to discover Turkish gastronomy.
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DISCOVER THE CHARMING TOWN OF URLA
Urla is a very lovely city, which thrived under the Lydians and Persians before being integrated into the Roman Empire. The city is known for its wine and olive oil production, as well as for being the birthplace of Greek poet George Seferis, a Nobel Prize winner in literature. Nowadays, it’s very pleasant to stroll through the lively streets full of small shops. A certain sweetness of life emanates from the city.
I recommend you take a trip to the Urla Iskelesi port where you can see the fishermen preparing their boats and hauling in the day’s catch under the always-interested gaze of local cats. In addition to witnessing the daily life of these fishermen, it is a perfect opportunity to photograph the most appreciated beings of the internet installed in every nook and cranny of the port.
Urla, Izmir
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TASTE QUALITY OLIVE OIL AT OLIVURLA
Olivurla (Urla) is an olive oil producer that offers superior quality virgin oils, sourced from local olive varieties. They grow their own olive trees in the Urla region and use traditional methods to cold-extract the olive oil. They offer a range of olive oils with varied flavors and aromas, adapted for different culinary uses. I had the opportunity to eat lunch directly at the production “house” and I must admit that I have rarely tasted such a good range of olive oil. However, be aware that a fresh, good-quality oil often has a very bitter side… Which personally doesn’t bother me, but I prefer to warn you!
In any case, our hosts treated us to a meal based on olive oil, obviously, but also on good wines produced by the house. During lunch, we had the opportunity to go behind the scenes to discover the extraction and preparation of the oil.
The house is located a bit outside of Urla, but the owners also have a beautiful space in town where Olivurla offers to discover the secrets of making olive oil, taste its different varieties, and test pairings with food.
Some tips I learned there for tasting olive oil like a pro: you have to warm the glass with the palm of your hand, then smell and taste, taking the time to swirl the oil in your mouth. Normally, true pros do this with an opaque blue glass to taste blind.
Olivurla
Ayerya Tasting Center, Yeni Quarter, Post Office Street No.7, Urla-İzmir
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THE KOSTEM OLIVE OIL MUSEUM
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum is the largest museum complex dedicated to olive oil. Located in Urla, it presents the history and production of olive oil from antiquity to the present day. The museum houses olive oil manufacturing facilities, as well as a collection of machines, tools, bottles, and amphorae. The site also features a cafe-restaurant, a natural products store, an art workshop, and a park for children. It is a beautiful place to discover everything about olive oil, whose first traces go back more than 4,000 years.
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum
Uzunkuyu, D:no:8, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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THE MAJESTIC ANCIENT CITY OF EPHESUS
Few ancient sites are as well preserved. Ephesus impresses with its vast ruins of a city that was first and foremost Greek, which shone for many years thanks to the wealth of its port. Clearly, I advise you to take the tour with a guide to bring the stones to life and thus better understand the rich history of a gigantic city that possesses two amphitheaters, one of which has nothing to envy of the other well-known ancient amphitheaters. But if I have to remember one moment from this visit, it is the discovery, should I say the wonder, in front of the Library of Celsus (117 AD), a true ancient jewel, still well preserved, which sits at the end of a long alley of vestiges like a King in his castle.
Given the popularity of the site, it goes without saying that you are not alone during the visit, so it is advisable to choose your times and day well to hope not to suffer too much from the crowds. Nevertheless, it would be a shame to miss such a site for all lovers of old stones.
Ancient City of Ephesus
Acarlar, Efes Harabeleri, 35920 Selçuk/İzmir, Turkey
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WHERE TO SLEEP IN THE IZMIR PROVINCE?
The charming Gaia Alaçatı hotel
Located a 30-minute drive from Urla, the Gaia Alaçatı hotel offers charming accommodations of a certain standard. You are welcomed very warmly in this place with elegant design. It is perfect for a quiet couple’s vacation!
The hotel is particularly cozy. You want to sit in an armchair around the fire, sip a Turkish tea while reading a good book. As for the rooms, I really appreciated mine with its intimate charm and refined decor.
Gaia Alaçatı
Alaçatı, 13002. Sk. No:11, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
Rates: approximately between €160 and €240 for a standard room, depending on the season
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WHERE TO EAT IN THE IZMIR PROVINCE?
Lunch at Vino Locale in Urla
If you are looking for a place to eat modern Turkish gastronomy, you will find what you are looking for at Vino Locale. Run by a charming couple, the husband in the kitchen and the wife serving, Vino Locale is a restaurant that I can only highly recommend. You can taste very good local wines there and the cuisine is simply delicious. For main courses, I had a big crush on a monkfish dish with chard and miso. Moreover, the place is like its owners: soothing, welcoming, and charming. A must-do if you are passing through Urla!
Vino Locale
Kuşçular, 8037. Sk. No:3, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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Dine at Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
A stone’s throw from the Gaia hotel is another equally aesthetic restaurant: Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki. You enter through the magnificent terrace which must be very pleasant for lunch in summer. The weather was not that warm at the time of my trip, especially in the evening, so we ate under a glass roof at the back. As for the food, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki offers above all traditional gastronomy done well using fresh and local products. The restaurant is also a craft shop.
The name of the restaurant means “vine leaf” in Turkish and refers to one of the country’s typical dishes, dolmas. Dolmas are vine leaves stuffed with rice, meat, or vegetables, and steamed or baked. If you are looking for a place to enjoy Turkish gastronomy in a picturesque setting, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki is a good address to keep in mind.
Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
Ovacık, Kerimoğlu Mevkii, 7152. Sk. No 141/ 1, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
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Visiting the Aydın Province
Our journey continued further South, but still staying near the Aegean Sea, as we went to the Aydın province, which is famous for its fig production, considered among the best in the world, and its lush olive trees. The province is also known for its artisanal traditions, notably the production of textiles and carpets. Every year, events and festivals celebrate the cultural richness and local products of the region. It is also, like Izmir, a province rich in history and archaeological sites (such as Didyma, which I mention below).
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VISIT THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO
The third largest temple in the ancient Greek world, the Temple of Apollo obviously impresses with its size. Huge columns, still partially standing, formed the framework of a high place of pilgrimage. Indeed, besides the famous oracle of Delphi, the one in this temple was just as famous for its omens, good or bad. One can easily imagine the emotion of the pilgrims of the time arriving in front of such a vast and imposing building. The latter was located in the ancient city of Didyma. The temple lost its importance completely in 385 AD, and with the spread of Christianity, the construction of the temple was never completed.
Visiting the Temple of Apollo is a fairly unique opportunity to dive into the history of Ancient Greece and to better understand the central role of oracles in the religious and political life of the era. I recommend – once again – if possible to visit with a guide, because despite the presence of explanatory signs, it is the kind of site that needs a human to revive the scale and beauty of such a place.
Temple of Apollo
Hisar Özgürlük Caddesi Özgürlük Cad, 09270 Didim/Aydın, Turkey
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DISCOVER ONE OF THE OLDEST OLIVE TREES IN THE WORLD
There are moments that leave an unforgettable memory during a trip and that is the case for this unusual moment in the middle of the olive trees. Near the village of Kazıklı, we were greeted with a fanfare by the owners (superb homemade mezzes and of course quality olive oil!) and we were treated to a demonstration of traditional peasant dance in front of an olive tree over 3,200 years old. The tree is nicknamed “Ata Ağaç” (which means “ancestral tree”) and the emotion is difficult to translate into words, but you can easily imagine my feeling in front of a tree that has lived so much and is still here. What’s more, it still produces olive oil! It was a magical, timeless moment, where we tasted Turkish hospitality in all its splendor. And then, I probably took my best photos of this trip because the place is so photogenic…
Village of Kazıklı
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DISCOVERY OF THE DEGIRMEN FARM AND ITS MUSEUM
The Degirmen farm in Kusadasi is an ideal place to spend a day with the family. You can discover a variety of animals, birds, and plants, as well as a restaurant that offers traditional Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is located in a natural and warm setting. Since we were there in the morning, we were treated to a Turkish breakfast based mainly on fresh cheese, spinach, eggs, and various flatbreads.
In addition to the possibility of eating on site and enjoying the bucolic location, there is also a museum which is ideal for perfecting your knowledge of olive oil (yes, again!). The museum, the Oleatrium, is composed of a rich private collection with numerous tools, machines, and documentation on the production of olive oil in Turkey. If you haven’t been to the Kostem Olive Oil Museum, it is also a good choice to learn more about the subject. Finally, a shop offers different varieties of olive oil for all tastes and all uses (I bought an oil for cooking, it’s excellent!).
Degirmen Farm
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WHERE TO SLEEP IN THE AYDIN PROVINCE?
The DoubleTree by Hilton hotel in Kusadasi
This very large hotel is perfectly located in the lovely town of Kusadasi, not far from the city of Ephesus. Compared to the other addresses of the stay, it offers a classy but more classic standard. You should especially take advantage of the magnificent rooftop with a terrace that gives a very nice panorama of the city and the Aegean Sea (while sipping a small cocktail, of course).
DoubleTree by Hilton
Türkmen, Atatürk Blv, Yat Limanı Karşısı, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Rates: from €113 to €227 depending on the period
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WHERE TO EAT IN THE AYDIN PROVINCE?
Dine at Oksa Marina in Kusadasi
This restaurant, specializing in seafood and fish, has a beautiful location with a view of the sea. You can savor various traditional dishes of Turkish gastronomy, such as salads, grilled foods, and fish.
It was during this meal that I tested for the first time the local pastis, Raki, a drink based on brandy and anise that the Turks consume a lot. It is probably not the best pairing possible with a grilled fish (it is even discouraged!), but as an aperitif, it’s nice (if you like pastis).
Oksa Marina Balık Restaurant
Türkmen, Gazi Beğendi Sk. no:3/1, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Link to the restaurant’s website
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Visiting the Muğla Province
The last part of the trip ended in the Southwest of Turkey (we traveled along the coast from North to South) with the Muğla province. The latter is famous for its picturesque seaside resorts, such as Bodrum, Marmaris, and Fethiye, which attract millions of visitors every year in search of relaxation, sun, and entertainment.
Muğla is also home to several archaeological and historical sites that I didn’t have time to discover. Among the most famous are the ancient city of Caunos, which offers ruins of a theater, an acropolis, and rock tombs, as well as the city of Dalyan, known for its Lycian tombs carved into the cliff. Another unmissable site is the ancient city of Knidos, located on the Datça peninsula.
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A CULINARY EXPERIENCE AT FOODRUM CULINARY PARK
To discover local cuisine, there’s nothing better than a short cooking class accompanied by a tasting of traditional dishes well-executed by the multi-talented chef, Pelin Dumanlı. Besides her innate sense of sharing that makes the meeting absolutely fascinating, one takes equal pleasure in tasting her dishes. The place offers educational programs, catering services, and gastronomic events.
This evening was an opportunity for me to test local products such as a beer from Bodrum, Gara Guzu (I rarely miss an opportunity to taste beer from a local micro-brewery).
Foodrum Culinary Park
Bitez, Forsa İş Merkezi, Adliye Cd. No:1 D:A2, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE MUGLA PROVINCE?
Lujo Bodrum, the resort of excess
Lujo is a luxury hotel located towards Bodrum (extreme Southwest of Anatolia) that offers a unique “art and joy” concept. Lujo offers its guests an atypical vacation experience, based on pleasure, creativity, and self-discovery. The resort has several à la carte restaurants, a spa, a private beach, and numerous fun and cultural activities. When entering the hotel, you are immediately struck by the vastness of the place as well as its refined decoration. Moreover, the panorama is breathtaking and you want to spend a quiet week there… However, I only took a quick tour of the place and only ate lunch at one of the restaurants.
Lujo Bodrum
Meşelik Mah. Çomça Mevkii Sok. No:10, 48200 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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The Marmara Bodrum, charm and luxury
Overlooking the city of Bodrum, The Marmara Bodrum (in Bodrum, then) has everything to please: a sumptuous panoramic view, charming rooms, and an elegant design, not to mention a good breakfast (it’s important!). I highly recommend it. What’s more, this hotel is reserved for adults who can thus enjoy the outdoor swimming pool, the spa, and the private beach without being disturbed by little two-legged creatures.
The Marmara Bodrum
Yokuşbaşı mah, Sulu Hasan Cd. No:18, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
Rates: between €153 and €283 depending on the period for a classic room
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A big thank you to the Türkiye Tourism Promotion and Development Agency and Axium by Parker for organizing this great stay to discover Turkish olive oil, culture, heritage, and art of living!
I hope that with all this I have made you want to visit Turkey and if you, too, have your good addresses and advice for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not copyright-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
