The last time I set foot in Turkey was over 10 years ago. At that time, I discovered the complex and sprawling beauty of Istanbul, a megalopolis among megalopolises with a history as rich as Rome’s. In 2022, I headed toward other horizons, on the other side of the Bosphorus (in Anatolia) for a road trip from the North-West to the South-West of Turkey. My journey never took me very far from the Aegean Sea and aimed to teach me more about the ancient culture of olive oil, but also to discover the territory’s antique wonders and its rich gastronomy. This guiding theme allowed me, alongside international journalists, to roam the sumptuous ruins of Ephesus, touch a 3200-year-old olive tree, and even taste numerous culinary specialties.
It is this journey that I will tell you about in this article, following a logic by province (Izmir in the North, Aydın in the “middle”, and Muğla in the South). Each time, I will tell you about what you can do on-site, along with my recommendations on where to sleep and where to eat.
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Table of Contents
Visiting the province of Izmir
I arrived by plane from Istanbul to Izmir airport to begin my journey in the North-West of Anatolia (the Asian part of Turkey) through the province of the same name as the city, which is a must-visit destination for all history lovers. Izmir possesses true archaeological treasures, housing the remnants of ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine cities. It is also a province rich in beautiful landscapes and with great spots to discover Turkish gastronomy.
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DISCOVERING THE CHARMING TOWN OF URLA
Urla is a very pretty town that prospered under the Lydians and Persians before being integrated into the Roman Empire. The city is known for its wine and olive oil production, as well as for being the birthplace of Greek poet George Seferis, a Nobel Prize in Literature winner. Nowadays, it is very pleasant to wander through the lively streets with plenty of small shops. A certain sweetness of life radiates from the city.
I recommend you take a trip to the Urla Iskelesi port where you can see the fishermen preparing their boats and bringing in the day’s last catch under the always very interested eyes of the local cats. In addition to witnessing the daily life of these fishermen, it is a perfect opportunity to photograph the most appreciated beings on the internet settled in every nook and cranny of the port.
Urla, Izmir
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TASTING QUALITY OLIVE OIL AT OLIVURLA
Olivurla (Urla) is an olive oil producer that offers superior quality virgin oils, made from local olive varieties. It grows its own olive trees in the Urla region and uses traditional methods to cold-press the olive oil. You can find a range of olive oils with varied flavors and aromas, adapted to different culinary uses. I had the opportunity to have lunch directly at the production “house” and I must admit that I have rarely tasted such a good range of olive oil. However, you should know that fresh, high-quality oil often has a very bitter side… Which personally doesn’t bother me, but I prefer to warn you!
In any case, our hosts treated us to a meal based on olive oil, obviously, but also good wines produced by the house. During lunch, we had the opportunity to go behind the scenes to discover the extraction and preparation of the oil.
The house is located a bit outside of Urla, but the owners also have a beautiful space in town where Olivurla offers to discover the secrets of olive oil production, taste its different varieties, and test pairings with food.
Some tips I learned there to taste olive oil like a pro: you need to warm the glass with the palm of your hand, then smell and taste, taking the time to move the oil around in your mouth. Normally, the true aficionados do this with an opaque blue glass to taste blindly.
Olivurla
Ayerya Tasting Center Yeni District, Post Office Street No.7 Urla-İzmir
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THE KOSTEM OLIVE OIL MUSEUM
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum is the largest museum complex dedicated to olive oil. Located in Urla, it showcases the history and production of olive oil from antiquity to the present day. The museum houses olive oil production facilities, as well as a collection of machines, tools, bottles, and amphorae. The site also features a café-restaurant, a shop for natural products, an art workshop, and a park for children. It’s a beautiful place to discover everything about olive oil, the first traces of which date back over 4000 years.
The Kostem Olive Oil Museum
Uzunkuyu, D:no:8, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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THE MAJESTIC ANCIENT CITY OF EPHESUS
Few ancient sites are as well-preserved as this one. Ephesus is impressive for its vast ruins of a city that was primarily Greek and thrived thanks to the wealth of its port for many years. Clearly, I recommend taking the tour with a guide to bring the stone to life and better understand the rich history of a gigantic city that boasts two amphitheaters, the largest of which rivals any other famous ancient amphitheater. But if I had to choose one moment from this visit, it would be the discovery—or should I say, the wonder—before the Library of Celsus (117 AD), a true ancient gem, still well-preserved, standing at the end of a long path of ruins like a King in his castle.
Given the popularity of the site, it goes without saying that you won’t be alone during your visit, so it’s best to choose your timing and the day carefully to avoid dealing with too many crowds. Nevertheless, it would be a shame to miss out on such a site for all lovers of ancient stones.
Ancient City of Ephesus
Acarlar, Efes Harabeleri, 35920 Selçuk/İzmir, Turkey
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE IZMIR PROVINCE?
The charming Gaia Alaçatı hotel
Located a 30-minute drive from Urla, the Gaia Alaçatı hotel offers charming, high-standard accommodation. We were welcomed very warmly into this place with its elegant design. It’s perfect for a quiet couple’s vacation!
The hotel feels particularly cozy. You’ll want to settle into an armchair by the fire, sip a Turkish tea, and read a good book. As for the rooms, I really appreciated mine with its intimate charm and refined decor.
Gaia Alaçatı
Alaçatı, 13002. Sk. No:11, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
Rates: approximately between 160€ and 240€ for a standard room, depending on the season
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WHERE TO EAT IN THE IZMIR PROVINCE?
Lunch at Vino Locale in Urla
If you’re looking for a place to eat modern Turkish gastronomy, you’ll find what you’re looking for at Vino Locale. Run by a charming couple—the husband in the kitchen and the wife providing service—Vino Locale is a restaurant that I can only highly recommend. You can taste some excellent local wines here, and the food is simply delicious. For the main course, I fell in love with a monkfish dish with Swiss chard and miso. Plus, the place reflects its owners: soothing, welcoming, and charming. A must-visit if you are passing through Urla!
Vino Locale
Kuşçular, 8037. Sk. No:3, 35430 Urla/İzmir, Turkey
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Dinner at Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
A stone’s throw from the Gaia Hotel, you’ll find a restaurant just as aesthetically pleasing: Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki. You enter through the magnificent terrace, which must be very pleasant for lunch in the summer. As the weather wasn’t quite that warm at the time of my trip—especially in the evening—we ate under a glass roof in the back. As for the food, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki offers above all well-made traditional gastronomy based on fresh, local produce. The restaurant is also a craft boutique.
The restaurant’s name means “vine leaf” in Turkish and refers to one of the country’s typical dishes, dolmas. Dolmas are vine leaves stuffed with rice, meat, or vegetables, and steamed or baked. If you are looking for a place to enjoy Turkish gastronomy in a picturesque setting, Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki is a great address to remember.
Asma Yaprağı Alaçatı Niki
Ovacık, Kerimoğlu Mevkii, 7152. Sk. No 141/ 1, 35937 Çeşme/İzmir, Turkey
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Visiting the Aydın Province
Our journey continued further south, but still keeping close to the Aegean Sea, as we headed to the Aydın province, which is famous for its production of figs—considered some of the best in the world—and its lush olive trees. The province is also known for its artisanal traditions, particularly the production of textiles and carpets. Every year, events and festivals celebrate the region’s cultural richness and local products. Like Izmir, it is also a province rich in history and archaeological sites (such as Didyma, which I mention below).
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VISITING THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO
As the third-largest temple in the ancient Greek world, the Temple of Apollo is obviously impressive due to its size. Immense columns, some still standing, formed the framework of this high place of pilgrimage. Indeed, in addition to the famous oracle of Delphi, the one at this temple was just as famous for its omens, whether good or bad. It is easy to imagine the emotion of the pilgrims of the time as they arrived in front of such a vast and imposing building. The latter was located in the ancient city of Didyma. The temple completely lost its importance in 385 AD, and with the spread of Christianity, the construction of the temple was never completed.
Visiting the Temple of Apollo is a fairly unique opportunity to dive into the history of ancient Greece and to better understand the central role of oracles in the religious and political life of the era. I recommend—once again—if possible, to visit with a guide, because despite the presence of explanatory signs, it is the kind of site that needs a human to bring the scale and beauty of such a place back to life.
Temple of Apollo
Hisar Özgürlük Caddesi Özgürlük Cad, 09270 Didim/Aydın, Turkey
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DISCOVERING ONE OF THE OLDEST OLIVE TREES IN THE WORLD
There are moments that leave an unforgettable memory during a trip, and this is the case for this unique moment among the olive trees. Near the village of Kazıklı, we were greeted with a flourish by the owners (superb homemade mezzes and, of course, quality olive oil!) and we were treated to a traditional peasant dance demonstration in front of an olive tree more than 3200 years old. The tree is nicknamed “Ata Ağaç” (which means “the ancestral tree”), and the emotion is difficult to put into words, but you can easily imagine how I felt in front of a tree that has lived so much and is still here. What’s more, it still produces olive oil! It was a magical moment, timeless, where we tasted Turkish hospitality in all its splendor. And then, I probably took my best photos of this trip because the place is so photogenic…
Kazıklı Village
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DISCOVERING THE DEGIRMEN FARM AND ITS MUSEUM
The Degirmen farm in Kusadasi is an ideal place to spend a day with the family. You can discover a variety of animals, birds, and plants, as well as a restaurant that offers traditional Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is located in a natural and warm setting. Since we were there in the morning, we were treated to a Turkish breakfast consisting mainly of fresh cheese, spinach, eggs, and various flatbreads.
In addition to the possibility of eating on-site and enjoying the bucolic location, there is also a museum that is perfect for perfecting your knowledge of olive oil (yes, again!). The museum, the Oleatrium, is composed of a rich private collection with numerous tools, machines, and documentation on the production of olive oil in Turkey. If you haven’t been to the Kostem Olive Oil Museum, it’s also a good choice to learn more about the subject. Finally, a shop offers different varieties of olive oil for all tastes and for all uses (I bought an oil for cooking, it is excellent!).
The Degirmen Farm
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WHERE TO SLEEP IN AYDIN PROVINCE?
The DoubleTree by Hilton hotel in Kusadasi
This very large hotel is perfectly located in the pretty town of Kusadasi, not far from the city of Ephesus. Compared to the other addresses of the stay, it offers a classy but more classic standard. You should especially enjoy the magnificent rooftop with a terrace that gives a very pretty panorama of the city and the Aegean Sea (while sipping a small cocktail, of course).
DoubleTree by Hilton
Türkmen, Atatürk Blv, Yat Limanı Karşısı, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Rates: from 113 € to 227 € depending on the period
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WHERE TO EAT IN AYDIN PROVINCE?
Dinner at Oksa Marina in Kusadasi
This restaurant, specializing in seafood and fish, has a beautiful location with a view of the sea. You can enjoy varied dishes traditional to Turkish gastronomy, such as salads, grilled meats, and fish.
It was during this meal that I tested for the first time the local pastis, Raki, a drink based on brandy and anise that the Turks consume enormously. It is probably not the best possible match with grilled fish (it is even advised against!), however as an aperitif, it is nice (if you like pastis).
Oksa Marina Balık Restaurant
Türkmen, Gazi Beğendi Sk. no:3/1, 09400 Kuşadası/Aydın, Turkey
Link to the restaurant’s website
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Visiting Muğla Province
The last part of the trip ended in the South-West of Turkey (we traveled along the coast from North to South) with the province of Muğla. The latter is famous for its picturesque seaside resorts, such as Bodrum, Marmaris, and Fethiye, which attract millions of visitors each year in search of relaxation, sun, and entertainment.
Muğla is also home to several archaeological and historical sites that I didn’t have time to explore. Among the most famous are the ancient city of Caunos, which offers remnants of a theater, an acropolis, and rock-cut tombs, as well as the town of Dalyan, known for its Lycian tombs carved into the cliff face. Another unmissable site is the ancient city of Knidos, located on the Datça Peninsula.
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A CULINARY EXPERIENCE AT FOODRUM CULINARY PARK
To discover the local cuisine, nothing beats a small cooking class accompanied by a tasting of traditional dishes expertly prepared by the multi-talented chef, Pelin Dumanlı. Beyond her innate sense of sharing that makes the meeting absolutely fascinating, it’s just as much of a pleasure to taste her dishes. The venue offers educational programs, catering services, and gastronomic events.
This evening was an opportunity for me to test local products such as a beer from Bodrum, the Gara Guzu (I rarely miss an opportunity to taste beer from a local micro-brewery).
Foodrum Culinary Park
Bitez, Forsa İş Merkezi, Adliye Cd. No:1 D:A2, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE MUGLA PROVINCE?
Lujo Bodrum, the resort of excess
Lujo is a luxury hotel located near Bodrum (far southwest of Anatolia) that offers a unique “art and joy” concept. Lujo offers its guests an unconventional holiday experience, based on pleasure, creativity, and self-discovery. The resort has several à la carte restaurants, a spa, a private beach, and numerous fun and cultural activities. When you enter the hotel, you are immediately struck by the immensity of the place as well as its refined decoration. Moreover, the panorama is breathtaking and makes you want to spend a quiet week there… However, I only took a quick tour of the place and only had lunch at one of the restaurants.
Lujo Bodrum
Meşelik Mah. Çomça Mevkii Sok. No:10, 48200 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
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The Marmara Bodrum, charm and luxury
Overlooking the city of Bodrum, The Marmara Bodrum (in Bodrum, therefore) has everything to please: a sumptuous panoramic view, charming rooms, and an elegant design, not to mention a good breakfast (that’s important!). I highly recommend it. Furthermore, this hotel is adults-only, allowing them to enjoy the outdoor pool, spa, and private beach without being disturbed by little two-legged beings.
The Marmara Bodrum
Yokuşbaşı mah, Sulu Hasan Cd. No:18, 48400 Bodrum/Muğla, Turkey
Rates: between 153€ and 283€ depending on the period for a classic room
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A big thank you to Türkiye Tourism Promotion and Development Agency and to Axium by Parker for organizing this great stay to discover Turkish olive oil, culture, heritage and way of life!
I hope that with all this I have made you want to visit Turkey, and if you too have your favorite addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
