Not far from the hustle and bustle of the vibrant capital, just a 25-minute drive away, Chantilly is located in the Oise department in the Hauts-de-France region. A vast estate of princely beauty, peaceful and enchanting, Chantilly reaches out to you and invites you to discover its treasures. As soon as you arrive, you feel a sense of well-being. Time stops to take us back through history. There, in the middle of this immense green carpet, stands the Château de Chantilly; sculptural, majestic, it is the master of the place. A former residence in the 19th century of Henri d’Orléans, Duke of Aumale, son of the last king of the French, its elegance is reflected in the calm waters of the lake that borders it. Take the time to sit on the park benches facing it.
Since 2007, Chantilly has belonged to the national network of Cities and Lands of Art and History, and when you spend a weekend there, you easily understand why… In this article, I offer you a selection of things to see/do in Chantilly (the must-see sites in the city are the Great Stables, the Château, and the Racecourse, which form the “golden triangle” of local heritage), my favorite spots for hotels and restaurants, as well as a few tips for discovering the city.
Table of Contents
Practical information for visiting Chantilly
A quick practical tip: unfortunately, the best way to get to, stay in, and visit Chantilly remains by car, as it is quite difficult to get around once you are there. There is a TER train that leaves from Gare du Nord and arrives at Chantilly-Gouvieux station (travel time about 30 minutes), but then you have to account for about a 30-minute walk to reach the château, for example.
Update August 1, 2020: starting August 1, 2020, every weekend and public holiday, a free shuttle will be available from Chantilly station to take you to the Château de Chantilly.
Visiting the Domaine de Chantilly: Château, Condé Museum, and Park
A bit of history: The Domaine de Chantilly has existed since the Middle Ages and has had illustrious owners over the centuries: Anne de Montmorency, the Grand Condé, Henri d’Orléans, and finally the Duke of Aumale. The latter, 5th son of King Louis-Philippe (the last of the French kings, I remind you), renovated the château to house his exceptional collection (paintings, books, art objects, furniture). With no direct heir, the Duke decided to bequeath the Estate and everything it contained to the Institut de France (the parent institution of the Academies), in order to make it a place open to the public, which it still is today.
With your entrance ticket to the Domaine de Chantilly, you can discover the park, the museum housed in the château, as well as the Great Stables and the Horse Museum. If you want to have enough time to see everything, allow for one or even two days on site.
Domaine de Chantilly
Open daily in high season from 10 am to 6 pm (also open on public holidays)
Price: €17 (château, park, Great Stables, temporary exhibitions) + €5
(guided tour of private apartments) / Reduced rate €13.50 (château, park, Great
Stables, temporary exhibitions) + €5 (guided tour of private apartments)
_
Strolling in the Domaine’s park
Obviously, if the weather is nice, I always advise you to take advantage of the château’s magnificent park, which spans 115 hectares and is a true testimony to the history of gardens. Please note that it takes several hours to walk leisurely through the park. I highly recommend visiting the Hamlet, composed of half-timbered cottages. The latter actually inspired Marie-Antoinette for her hamlet at Versailles, where one can enjoy the delicious Chantilly Cream… You can also go see the kangaroo enclosure or the Domaine’s beehives.
_
Visiting the Condé Museum
It’s impossible not to be tempted by a visit to the magnificent Château de Chantilly. Beyond the splendor of its architecture, the château houses the Condé Museum, which boasts an impressive collection of masterpieces, assembled thanks to the passion of a prince, the Duke of Aumale. Treasures accumulated over a lifetime, which remain today one of the most important collections of ancient works after the Louvre. The Duke insisted that the arrangement of the artworks remain unchanged, hence that feeling, while wandering through, of embarking on a journey back in time, as if the Duke were waiting in the next room.
The Duke of Aumale had notably acquired the Très Riches Heures of the Duke of Berry, which is visible in facsimile form. One can also discover the magnificent decorations of the place (especially the Grande Singerie salon, my favorite). These magnificent collections as well as the Domaine were bequeathed at his death by the Duke of Aumale to the Institut de France in 1886. Contemplate the works of Poussin, Raphael, Watteau, in spaces specifically designed to accommodate them.
_
Taking a guided tour of the Duke of Aumale’s Private Apartments
Heir to the last King of the French, King Louis-Philippe, the Duke of Aumale had the Grand Château de Chantilly, which had been razed during the Revolution, rebuilt in the 19th century to house his collections. The private apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Aumale opened their doors in 2019 after almost two years of work. Furnished between 1845 and 1847 and decorated by Eugène Lami, these eight rooms benefited from a fundamental restoration of their decor and furniture. A unique opportunity to relive the splendor of the July Monarchy, of which the Château de Chantilly houses the only princely apartments entirely preserved in France.
It is a magnificent visit that I truly encourage you to do during your next visit to the château. However, due to the small size of the spaces and the preciousness of the collections presented there, the private apartments are accessible only during guided tours for small groups, by reservation.
Practical Info: if you go to Chantilly by car, be aware that the château’s parking lot is paid beyond 20 minutes of parking and costs €5 for the day (regardless of how long you stay).
_
Visiting the Great Stables
Chantilly is considered globally as “The Horse Capital“, because it is the land where the horse is celebrated. The Chantilly racecourse hosts horse racing, a traditional, recognized, and prestigious attraction. Horse racing, an English passion, arrived in France at the end of the 18th century. Chantilly plays an essential role in its development. Artists began to take an interest in the subject, and French painters began to copy English painting, like that of Stubbs. So head to the Great Stables to meet and admire our horse friends. Look up at the sky and admire the admirable architecture of the building. Here, animals are treated like kings. Then, go for a walk in the Horse Museum, located in the Cour des Remises of the Great Stables. There, you will be witnesses, through the ages, of the strong and unique bond that unites man and horse.
I also recommend that you inquire about the equestrian show “Nature” at the Great Stables of Chantilly, which can be an interesting activity idea. The horses belong to the Foundation, live in the stable, and are taken out regularly. I notably learned that it takes a minimum of 3 years of work to break in a horse (that is to say, for it to be trained).
Visiting the Potager des Princes
This living museum and small animal park is the result of the hard work of Yves and Annabel Bienaimé, passionate patrons of this former princely “folly” which they have been renovating since the early 2000s. Inside these gardens is a 17th- and 18th-century spirit, as in the time of the Princes of Condé, a theater, waterfalls, a lovers’ bridge, a farmyard, a rabbit race track… This place is a real paradise for children, as the living museum of the Dwarf Farmyard presents many species of dwarf farm animals, such as chickens, pigeons, rabbits, sheep, goats, ponies, and horrible turkeys (brrr, I still shudder at it). The place also offers many cultural, fun, and educational activities.
Le Potager des Princes
17 rue de la Faisanderie 60500 Chantilly
My favorite spots in Chantilly
To discover my selection of delicious favorite spots (restaurants, Chantilly cream…) and also my selection of accommodations in Chantilly, don’t hesitate to check out my dedicated article on this subject: “My favorite spots in Chantilly“.
_
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover or re-discover Chantilly, and if you also have your own favorite spots for going out and visiting this city, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on the Oise department in the Hauts-de-France region below:
⇒ All my articles on the Oise
⇒ All my articles on the Hauts-de-France
MY ARTICLES ON THE OISE
⇒ Chantilly
⇒ Parc Astérix
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use
