You might remember it (or perhaps not at all), but back in the summer of 2018, I went on my first road trip in the Gers, right in the heart of Gascony, to explore this beautiful region, discover its famous gastronomy, and do a bit of sightseeing.
Since we completely fell in love with this department with my favorite photographer, we decided to return last November to experience the Gers in autumn. And above all, to explore new spots we hadn’t seen the last time.
A quick geographical refresher for anyone who might need it: the Gers department is located south of the Garonne and north of the Pyrenees, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, 1 hour west of Toulouse, right in the heart of the Occitanie region.
It is a particularly wonderful area to discover by car to fully enjoy its landscapes: vineyards, plains, and rolling hills. It is also an especially friendly and welcoming department where the values of exchange and sharing are very important.
To get to the Gers from Paris, the easiest way is still to fly to Toulouse (about 1h15) and then rent a car at the airport. Unless, of course, you are in a slow travel state of mind for your Gers getaway, in which case the train option will take a bit longer. But you can also arrive at the Agen train station, located in Lot-et-Garonne, and rent a car from there.
Table of Contents
Sightseeing activities to do in the Gers
Here are all my suggestions for visits and activities to enjoy during your sightseeing trip to the Gers. In particular, I’m taking you to a few of the department’s towns and villages that we visited during our road trip.
The Gers is a department rich in tradition, and you need to immerse yourself in its culture and share the easy-going good humor of its locals to truly grasp its mentality and essence.
_
Visiting the Musée des Amériques in Auch
This museum just reopened its doors at the end of 2019, and it’s a huge success! It has been completely renovated and redesigned around its exceptional collections of pre-Columbian and Latin American sacred art.
In fact, it is the largest public collection of pre-Columbian art in France after the one at the Musée du Quai Branly! It was originally put together from objects brought back by Guillaume Pujos in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A young native of Auch who traveled to South America in his youth, he became the museum’s curator in 1911 and used his position at the time to exhibit the finest pieces of his collection.
In addition to this, the museum also houses a very rich archaeological collection, particularly local, spanning from the Gallo-Roman period to the mid-20th century.
If you pass through Auch (which I’ve already talked about in more detail in a previous article), don’t hesitate to visit the museum; it is well worth it! Right now, the museum is also hosting a fantastic cultural program featuring the temporary exhibition of national interest “Pre-Columbian Peru, another look at the world”, which brings together over 200 exceptional works.
Musée des Amériques – Auch
9 rue Gilbert Brégail, 32000 Auch
Admission: €6 standard / €3 reduced / free for under-18s and for everyone on the first weekend of each month
_
Strolling along the hiking trail of the Sansan Paleontological Site
You can discover the Sansan paleosite by taking a 3 km trail marked with educational panels. This interpretation trail titled “Édouard Lartet, discovering a lost world” tells the story of how a modest lawyer from the Gers discovered a top-tier paleontological deposit in the second half of the 19th century. This discovery revolutionized prevailing scientific theories and shed light on the flora and fauna of a distant era: the Middle Miocene (15 million years ago).
Notably, this is the site where the first fossil ape was found, as well as a complete Mastodon skeleton. The site features remains from 100 different species from that period. Given the importance of the site, the Natural History Museum acquired the deposit in 1849.
It’s a fantastic walk to do on a sunny day with your children because the path is very easy to navigate, and best of all, access is completely free!
Sansan Paleontological Site
Departure: Church parking lot, 32260 Sansan (follow the paleosite signs)
Access: Open and free all year round (summer guided tours for €4 via the Val de Gers Tourist Office)
_
Visiting the Museum of Fine Arts in Mirande
The town of Mirande is the sub-prefecture of the southern Gers. It is a “bastide” town founded at the end of the 13th century by the Count of Astarac.
This museum was created in 1832 by a notable local from Mirande, Joseph Delort, an art lover and man of letters who was then head of the Fine Arts section at the Ministry of the Interior. The museum holds a collection of paintings (Italian, Flemish, and French, dating from the 15th to the 19th century), including several loans from the Louvre and Orsay museums, as well as antique decorative earthenware from the main workshops of southwestern France.
The little extra: the museum features a lovely little garden at the back of the building where it’s pleasant to take a short break in the sun.
After your visit, I also recommend going to see the Church of Sainte-Marie, which is right in front of you as you exit the museum. It is a Southern Gothic style building constructed in the 15th century, housing beautiful 19th-century stained glass windows and several paintings as well.
Museum of Fine Arts of Mirande
13 rue de l’Évêché, 32300 Mirande
Prices: free admission and access for the museum visit (guided tours available for €4)
_
Visiting the village of Bassoues and climbing the Keep
On the road of the Bastides and Castelnaux, I recommend making a stop during your journey in the village of Bassoues. It’s the perfect opportunity to take a stroll through this bastide founded at the end of the 13th century by Amanieu II of Armagnac.
During this charming walk in the heart of Bassoues, you can see the village ramparts, the covered market hall, the arcades, the Church of the Nativity, and the Saint-Fris Basilica.
Also make sure to visit the Donjon of Bassoues! This masterpiece of 14th-century military architecture towers over the bastide and is one of the best-preserved keeps in the southwest.
While visiting this monument, you can also climb all the way to the top of its 43m height and admire a magnificent panoramic view of the countryside, the hillsides of the southern Gers, and the Pyrenees mountain range.
Donjon of Bassoues
Grande Rue, 32320 Bassoues
Prices: €4 standard / €2 reduced (8 to 16 years old, students, job seekers) / free for children under 8
_
Guided tour of the Gallo-Roman villa of Séviac
This Gallo-Roman villa is part of a larger complex, that of the ancient capital of Elusa (now Eauze). The latter currently has 3 sites you can visit, including the Gallo-Roman villa of Séviac which we toured. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the other 2 locations.
Recently restored (between November 2016 and May 2018), the Villa of Séviac is famous for the richness of its mosaics (625 m²) and the impressive scale of its private thermal baths.
It is set high up amidst the vineyards and represents an exceptional example of 4th-century Gallo-Roman aristocratic architecture. It was the property of a wealthy class family, serving simultaneously as a trading hub, a place of prestige, and a residence.
Visiting the site is truly an invitation to turn back the clock of history and dive into the daily lives of its former owners.
The little extra: if you want to fully understand the entire site and learn more about life in Gallo-Roman times, I recommend taking a guided tour (duration: 1h30).
Gallo-Roman Villa of Séviac (ELUSA Antique Capital)
Séviac, 32250 Montréal-du-Gers
Pricing: single site admission ticket: €7 adult / €5 reduced / €3 child (11-17 years old) / free for under 11s (combined pass 2 sites: €12 / 3 sites: €15)
_
Visiting the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran
Founded in 1151 in the Baïse Valley (Grand Site d’Occitanie), the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran is one of the best-preserved in southwestern France. The monastic buildings (church, cloister, chapter house, refectory, dormitory, abbot’s lodgings) and gardens unfold as you tour the complex.
Along the tour, you also discover the Simonow exhibition, an exceptional private collection of masterpieces by masters from the 16th to the 20th century (Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, Braque, Tiepolo, Rubens, Courbet, Rodin…) at the heart of European art movements. Unfortunately, copyright restrictions apply to most of the paintings in the exhibition, so we weren’t able to take photos of the rooms housing these works.
Behind the abbey, you can also enjoy the lovely garden located at the rear of the buildings for a pleasant, contemplative stroll. Highlights include a very charming dovecote as well as a few raised beds featuring medicinal plants, herbs, and simples.
The site also regularly hosts contemporary works of art scattered throughout the building, as well as temporary exhibitions focusing on photography.
The Abbey also offers cultural and educational events all year round covering every field of heritage, from archaeology to contemporary art. In fact, it has housed the Departmental Conservation of Heritage and Museums of the Gers since 2000. Right now, you can discover the themed exhibition “Water Stories… in the Simonow Collection” in the monks’ dormitory as well as contemporary art installations by Rémi Groussin.
Cistercian Abbey of Flaran
32310 Valence-sur-Baïse
Prices: €7 full price / €3.50 reduced price / free for under 18s and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month from November to March inclusive
_
Visiting the Collegiate Church and the Village of La Romieu
The village of La Romieu is fondly called the “village of cats” because a large number of felines can be found right in the heart of the village, on windows, doors, bullseyes, and various doorsteps. These sculpted cats are largely the work of Maurice Serreau, a sculptor from Orléans who fell in love with the village and decided to settle there.
This sculptor was touched by the story of young Angéline, a little medieval orphan, and decided to sculpt and gift stone cat statues to the residents so that this legend would not be forgotten.
According to this legend, in the 14th century, a certain Angéline saved two cats during a severe famine by hiding them because the starving villagers had started eating them. At the end of this difficult period, crops were threatened by rats since most of the cats had disappeared. But in La Romieu, thanks to Angéline’s two cats and the kittens they had, the village was saved from a new misfortune. That is how La Romieu came to be baptized the “village of cats”.
La Romieu was originally a modest priory founded by two monks returning from a pilgrimage to Rome, hence the name “larroumieu” meaning “pilgrim” in Gascon. This foundation is believed to date back to 1062.
As for the current Collegiate Church of Saint-Pierre de La Romieu, it was built at the beginning of the 14th century by Cardinal Arnaud d’Aux (a local native) to serve as a tomb for himself and his family, as it lies on the Way of St. James. It took only 6 years to build the church, the sacristy whose walls are covered with murals, the double helix staircase in the bell tower, the cloister, and finally the palace.
He transformed the Benedictine community into a college of 14 regular canons, led by a dean and a sub-dean. The collegiate church, built between 1312 and 1318, has the floor plan of a large chapel. It has no direct access to the street, as it was closed off from the common people until the French Revolution.
Collegiate Church of Saint-Pierre de La Romieu
Rue du Dr Lucante, 32480 La Romieu
Duration of the visit: about 1 hour
Pricing: €7 full price / €6 reduced price (pilgrims, 12-18 years old, students, accessibility needs) / audioguide supplement: €1
Official website of the village and Collegiate Church of La Romieu
Good addresses and gastronomy in the Gers
In this section, I will share some great addresses for spots related to Gers gastronomy (vineyards, farms). I’ll also share the addresses of the restaurants and accommodations we tested with my favorite photographer during our sightseeing trip in the Gers.
Gastronomy-wise, you’re in for a treat because the Gers is a department for foodies and bon vivants! Notably, it is the home of Armagnac, this brandy aged in oak barrels and made from white wine. It is one of the oldest brandies in the country, having been produced since around 1300, and the still used for distillation comes from Arab countries.
Finally, you should know that it is also the leading organic department in France! In the Gers, people love quality products and, above all, they love sharing this mindset with everyone.
_
Discovering Armagnac and distillation at Domaine de Bilé
More than 45 years ago, in 1973, the first brandy flowed at the Della Vedove family’s estate. Today, Domaine de Bilé continues its journey, with the 2nd and 3rd generations carrying on the tradition with a commitment to quality and a spirit of conviviality.
A quick visit to Domaine de Bilé is the perfect opportunity to discover their expertise, their Côtes de Gascogne wines, their Flocs de Gascogne, and of course their Armagnacs!
As for us, we went there during the Flamme de l’Armagnac open house weekend for an extremely festive tapas and buffet dinner evening! For your information, the Flamme de l’Armagnac is a celebratory period organized by the national interprofessional office of Armagnac between October and January. It offers a rich and varied program featuring numerous events around the Gers’ flagship product, Armagnac.
Domaine de Bilé
Della Vedove Family, 32320 Bassoues
Open every day from 9 AM to 7 PM (closed Sunday afternoons)
_
Le Pillardon Beekeeping Estate
Paul and Caroline Peignier form a passionate professional beekeeping couple offering a rather uncommon expertise in the Gers: honey and gingerbread.
A visit to the Estate lets you explore the world of bees built around three core values that the couple weaves into crafting their products: authenticity, quality, and taste.
And of course, don’t hesitate to taste their delicious products (the gingerbread is seriously amazing!) and take some home as a souvenir of your time in the Gers!
Le Pillardon Beekeeping Estate
32320 Bassoues
Welcome, tastings, and sales Monday through Friday from 3 PM to 6 PM in July, and by appointment the rest of the year
Estate tours by appointment in summer (duration 1.5 hours / €5 and free for under 12s)
_
Where to sleep near Auch? An evening at Domaine de Baulieu
In the heights above the Gascon capital stands the superb Domaine de Baulieu, run by Karen Lagadec & Sébastien Cailleau. This typical, historic Gers farmhouse has been restored and transformed to offer a setting that is both traditional and contemporary.
This haven of nature and tranquility houses a 4-star hotel with 28 high-end rooms, while preserving the traditional spirit of the place through its exposed wooden beams and original stone walls.
In any case, it’s truly a magnificent address that I very, very warmly recommend trying out if you happen to be passing through Auch. For our part, we experienced a truly magical evening and night there—without a doubt, one of the highlights of this trip to the Gers!
Our Ecolodge
We were lucky enough to sleep in one of the brand new Eco Lodges at the location. The lodge features all the modern comfort you could expect from this standing, yet it blends seamlessly into the surrounding nature. We truly had the feeling of being in our own little bubble, isolated from the hustle and bustle of the city.
To make the most of our lodge, we even decided to have breakfast in bed, with a stunning, direct view over the Gers hills.
Domaine de Baulieu (Hotel & Ecolodges)
Chemin de Lussan, 32000 Auch
Room rates: from €125 to €170 depending on the season and category
Our dinner at the Domaine de Baulieu restaurant
Another major highlight of the property is its top-tier gourmet restaurant set in an elegant and welcoming atmosphere!
In the kitchen, two chefs, Maxime Deschamps and Stéphane Mazières, complement each other perfectly and showcase fresh, local produce through beautifully crafted plates. While strolling around the Domaine, you can even discover the restaurant’s vegetable garden, a guarantee of quality and flavor.
The chefs offer a flavorful and aesthetic menu, combining a perfect balance of flavors and textures. In short, it might just be one of the best value-for-money restaurants we’ve ever tested!
And to top it all off, the restaurant’s sommelier is equally up to the venue’s standards. His food and wine pairings (which we highly recommend opting for) are absolutely superb and brilliantly highlight local wines. Thanks to him, we discovered an unexpected palette of Côtes de Gascogne wines and were pleasantly surprised!
Domaine de Baulieu Gourmet Restaurant
Chemin de Lussan, 32000 Auch
Hours: open for lunch and dinner (remember to book in advance)
Lunch menus from €29, tasting menus from €59
The extra touch: a heated outdoor pool for sunny days, though unfortunately for us in the middle of November we weren’t able to enjoy it much…
_
A Labeyrie Guest House
Marie-Ange, Marie-Edith and Serge welcome guests to their home all year round. For generations, their family has been dedicated to keeping their beautiful 19th-century family estate alive in the tradition and respect of heritage.
We stayed in the pinkish-ochre room, which evokes the rural world through a few charming 19th-century country pieces of furniture.
The extra touch: the warm welcome of a genuine guest house where you share drinks with the owners and taste some local specialties.
A Labeyrie Guest House
1 Quartier Coutens, Lieu-dit Labeyrie, 32160 Beaumarchés
Room rates: from €75 per night breakfast included (Gîtes de France certified)
Information and bookings via the Cœur Sud-Ouest Tourist Office
_
Where to eat at a Gers breeder’s? Betty Beef
This address, set in a very authentic environment—a barn built in 1914 by village youths before they went off to war—allows you to dine at the home of Charolais cattle breeders who also farm organically.
Indeed, this passionate couple decided to promote their own products directly (if you want something done right, do it yourself) by creating a restaurant at the heart of their farm to highlight it. And I must say we were completely won over by this concept alongside my favorite photographer!
Initially, the couple opened a direct-sale workshop to meet consumers, and later a restaurant in the heart of the farm inside a former barn.
The venue serves family-style, regional, simple and authentic cuisine, given a clever twist of exotic flavors, centered around Charolais beef and quality local farm products to also highlight other surrounding farms. Which is, of course, particularly commendable.
To taste: organic beef cromesquis; beef tataki; smoked beef hachis parmentier; the Betty Burger (€15 for 200 g of meat and €20 for 400 g of meat).
The extra touch: a shaded terrace with views of the fields and pastures for sunny days, as well as the Pyrenees mountain range.
Le Betty Beef Restaurant
Lieu-dit Lapèze, 233 voie de Lanette, 32230 Mascaras (on-site parking)
Full adult menu: around €32 (children’s menu €11)
Information and bookings via the Cœur d’Astarac Tourist Office
_
Visiting the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran
This restaurant is set in a Logis de France hotel, la Ferme de Flaran. It is located just a few minutes’ drive from the Abbey of Flaran which I mentioned earlier, making it an extremely practical spot for lunch if you plan to visit the monument during the day.
On the plate, the venue highlights regional and seasonal produce from local producers through traditional cuisine. In summer, the team even harvests vegetables straight from the establishment’s vegetable garden, and all desserts are homemade.
La Ferme de Flaran Restaurant
Bagatelle, 32310 Maignaut-Tauzia (near Valence-sur-Baïse)
Prices: daily / regional menu at €19 (starter + main course + dessert)
Thank you to Raphaëlle from the Destination Gers Departmental Tourism Committee and to Val de Gers Tourisme for this wonderful welcome to their department and for this brief getaway in the Gers.
I hope all this has inspired you to visit the Gers. If you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles about the Gers department and the Occitanie region below:
→ Road trip in the Gers, at the heart of Gascony (summer getaway)
→ Discovering Cahors, its wine and the Lot Valley
→ Long weekend in Albi in the Tarn
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization mandatory prior to any use
