You might remember (or maybe not!) that during the summer of 2018, I took my first road trip in the Gers in the heart of Gascony to visit this beautiful region, discover its famous gastronomy, and do a bit of sightseeing.
Since we fell in love with this department with my favorite photographer, we decided to return last November to discover the Gers in autumn. And especially to explore new corners that we hadn’t seen the last time.
A quick geographic reminder for those who might need it, the Gers department is located south of the Garonne and north of the Pyrenees, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, 1 hour west of Toulouse, right in the heart of the Occitanie region.
It is a territory that is particularly pleasant to discover by car to make the most of its landscapes: vineyards, plains, and valleys. It is also a particularly friendly and welcoming department where the concepts of exchange and sharing are very important.
To get to the Gers from Paris, the simplest way is to fly to Toulouse (about 1h15) and then rent a car at the airport. Unless, of course, you are in a slow travel tourism mindset in the Gers; in that case, the train option will take a bit more time. But you can also arrive at the Agen train station, which is in the Lot-et-Garonne, and rent a car from there.
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Table of Contents
Tourist activities to do in the Gers
Here are all my suggestions for visits and activities to enjoy during your tourism stay in the Gers. I am taking you to some of the towns and villages in the department that we visited during our road trip.
The Gers is a department of tradition, and one must immerse oneself in its culture and share the easy-going good humor of its inhabitants to get a sense of its mentality and essence.
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Visit the Musée des Amériques in Auch
This museum just reopened its doors at the end of 2019, and it’s a great success! It has been completely renovated and rethought around its exceptional collections of Pre-Columbian art and Latin American sacred art.
It is actually the largest public collection of Pre-Columbian art in France after that of the Quai Branly Museum! It was initially built from objects brought back at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century by Guillaume Pujos, a young man from Auch who traveled to South America in his youth. In 1911, he became the museum’s curator and took advantage of his position to exhibit the finest pieces from his collection.
In addition to that, the museum also contains a very rich archaeological collection, particularly local, spanning from the Gallo-Roman period to the middle of the 20th century.
If you are passing through Auch (which I already wrote about more extensively in a previous article), don’t hesitate to visit the museum; it is really worth it!
Musée des Amériques 9 rue Brégail 32 000 Auch Prices: 5 € / 2.50 € reduced / free for those under 18 and for everyone on the 1st weekend of each month
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Walk on the hiking trail of the Sansan paleontological site
You can discover the Sansan paleo-site by taking a 3 km trail marked with educational panels. This interpretive trail, “Edouard Lartet, discovering a lost world,” tells how a modest lawyer from the Gers discovered a major paleontological deposit in the second half of the 19th century. This revolutionized the scientific theories in force at the time and brought to light the fauna and flora of a distant era: the Middle Miocene (-15 million years ago).
This is notably the site where the first fossil ape was found, but also an entire Mastodon skeleton. The site features remains of 100 different species from that period. Given the site’s importance, the Natural History Museum acquired the deposit in 1849.
It is therefore a great walk to do on a sunny day with your children because it is a very easy path to navigate, and what’s more, access is completely free!
Sansan Paleontological Site Park at the church parking lot, 32260 Sansan Then follow the signs for the Sansan paleo-site
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Visit the Mirande Fine Arts Museum
The town of Mirande is the sub-prefecture of the southern Gers. It is a “bastide” town founded at the end of the 13th century by the Count of Astarac.
This museum was created in 1832 by a notable Mirande resident, Joseph Delort, an art lover and man of letters, who was then responsible for the Fine Arts section at the Ministry of the Interior. The museum possesses a collection of paintings (Italian, Flemish, or French, dating from the 15th to the 19th century), including several deposits from the Louvre and Orsay museums, as well as antique decorative earthenware from the main workshops in the southwest of France.
The little extra: the museum has a lovely little garden at the back of the building where it is pleasant to take a small break in the sun.
After your visit, I also advise you to visit the Sainte-Marie Church, which is right in front of you as you exit the museum. It is a Southern Gothic style building constructed in the 15th century that houses beautiful 19th-century stained glass windows and a few paintings as well.
Fine Arts Museum of Mirande 13 rue de l’Évêché 32300 Mirande Open Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 12 pm and from 3 pm to 6 pm Prices: check at the front desk The tip: free on the 1st Saturday of each month from November to March inclusive
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Visit the village of Bassoues and climb the Keep
On the road to the Bastides and Castelnaux, I advise you to stop during your journey in the village of Bassoues. It is an opportunity to take a little tour in this bastide founded at the end of the 13th century by Amanieu II of Armagnac.
During this charming walk in the heart of Bassoues, you can see the village ramparts, the market hall, the covered walkways, the Nativity Church, and the Saint-Fris Basilica.
Also go visit the Bassoues Keep! This masterpiece of 14th-century military architecture dominates the bastide and is one of the best-preserved keeps in the southwest.
While visiting this monument, you can also climb to the very top of its 43m and admire a grandiose panorama of the countryside, the hills of the southern Gers, and the Pyrenees mountain range.
Keep of Bassoues Grande Rue, 32320 Bassoues Prices: 4 € / 2 € reduced / free for children under 8 The keep is open every day from March 15 to November 15
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Guided tour of the Séviac Gallo-Roman villa
This Gallo-Roman villa is part of a larger complex, that of the ancient capital of Elusa (today Eauze). The latter currently has 3 visitable sites, including the Séviac Gallo-Roman villa, which we visited. Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit the other 2 sites.
Restored quite recently (between November 2016 and May 2018), the Villa de Séviac is famous for the richness of its mosaics (625 m²) and for the significant scale of its private baths.
It is located on high ground in the middle of the vineyards and constitutes an exceptional example of 4th-century Gallo-Roman aristocratic architecture. It was the property of a wealthy family and served as a place of business, as well as a place of pomp and habitation.
The tour of the site is truly an invitation to go back in time to dive into the daily life of its former owners.
The little extra: if you want to fully understand the entire site and learn more about life in the Gallo-Roman era, I advise you to take a guided tour (duration: 1h30).
Séviac Gallo-Roman Villa Séviac, 32250 Montréal-du-Gers Prices: 1-site entry ticket 5 € / 2 sites 7.50 € / 3 sites 10 € The tip: free for all on the 1st Sunday of March and November / free for children under 18, job seekers, and RSA beneficiaries See opening hours on the website
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Visit the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran
Founded in 1151 in the Baïse Valley (Grand Site d’Occitanie), the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran is one of the best-preserved in the Southwest of France. The monastic buildings (church, cloister, chapter house, refectory, dormitory, abbot’s lodgings) and gardens are revealed during the tour of the edifice.
During the tour, you also discover the Simonow exhibition, an exceptional private collection of masterpieces by masters from the 16th to the 20th century (Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, Braque, Tiepolo, Rubens, Courbet, Rodin…) at the heart of European artistic currents. Unfortunately, there are copyrights on most of the paintings in the exhibition, so we were not able to take photos of the rooms that house these works.
Behind the abbey, you can also enjoy the beautiful garden located at the rear of the buildings for a contemplative stroll. There you can find, in particular, a very beautiful dovecote but also some squares with medicinal and aromatic plants and simple herbs.
The venue also regularly hosts contemporary art works scattered throughout the building, as well as temporary exhibitions focusing on photography.
The Abbey also offers cultural or educational events all year round in all areas of heritage, from archaeology to contemporary art. Indeed, it has housed the Gers Departmental Heritage and Museum Conservation service since 2000.
Cistercian Abbey of Flaran 32310 - Valence-sur-Baïse Prices: 5 € / 2 € reduced / free for children under 18 and for all on the 1st Sunday of the month from November to March Open from February 1 to June 30 and from September 1 to early January from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm Open from July 1 to August 31 from 9:30 am to 7 pm
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Visit the Collegiate Church and the village of La Romieu
The village of La Romieu is often called the “village of cats” because a large number of felines are present in the heart of the village, on the windows, the doors, the portholes, and on some doorsteps. These sculpted cats are largely the work of Maurice Serreau, a sculptor from Orléans who, having fallen in love with the village, decided to settle there.
This sculptor was moved by the story of the young Angéline, a little orphan from the Middle Ages, and he decided to sculpt and offer the inhabitants stone cat statues, so as not to forget this legend.
This legend says that in the 14th century, a certain Angéline, during a great famine, saved two cats by hiding them because the starving inhabitants had started to eat them. At the end of this difficult period, the crops were threatened by rats because most of the cats had disappeared. But at La Romieu, thanks to Angéline’s two cats and the little kittens they had, the village was saved from a new disaster. This is how La Romieu was christened “the village of cats”.
La Romieu was initially a modest priory founded by two monks returning from a pilgrimage to Rome, hence the name “larroumieu” meaning “pilgrim” in Gascon. This foundation dates back to 1062.
Concerning the current Collegiate Church of Saint-Pierre de La Romieu, it was built at the beginning of the 14th century by Cardinal Arnaud d’Aux (a local son) to be his tomb and that of his family because it is located on the Way of Saint James. It took only 6 years to build the church, the sacristy whose walls are covered with murals, the double-helix staircase in the bell tower, the cloister, and finally the palace.
He transformed the Benedictine community into a college of 14 secular canons, led by a dean and a sub-dean. The collegiate church, built between 1312 and 1318, has the floor plan of a large chapel. It has no direct access to the street because it was closed to the public until the French Revolution.
Collegiate Church of La Romieu
Rue du Dr Lucante, 32480 La Romieu
See opening hours according to the seasons
Tour duration: about 1h
Prices: 4 € to 6 € for adults / 2 € for children_
Great addresses and gastronomy in the Gers
In this section, I will give you some great addresses for places related to Gers gastronomy (vineyards, farms). But I will also share with you the addresses of restaurants and accommodations that we tested with the favorite photographer during our tourist stay in the Gers.
In terms of gastronomy, you will be well served because the Gers is a department of food lovers and those who enjoy the good life! It is notably the land of Armagnac, this brandy aged in oak barrels and made with white wine. It is one of the oldest brandies in the country, as it has been produced for about 1300 years, and the still used for distillation comes from Arab countries.
Finally, you should know that it is also the 1st organic department of France! In the Gers, we like quality products and, above all, we like to share this mindset with as many people as possible.
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Discovery of Armagnac and distillation at the Domaine de Bilé
More than 45 years ago, in 1973, the first brandy from the Della Vedove family estate flowed. Today, the Domaine de Bilé continues its journey, with the 2nd and 3rd generations perpetuating the tradition with respect for quality and in a spirit of conviviality.
A short visit to the Domaine de Bilé will be an opportunity to discover their know-how, their Côtes de Gascogne wines, their Flocs de Gascogne, and obviously their Armagnacs!
For our part, we went there during the Flamme de l’Armagnac open house event for an extremely festive tapas and buffet dinner evening! For information, the Flamme de l’Armagnac is a festive period organized by the National Interprofessional Bureau of Armagnac between October and January. It offers a rich and varied program and numerous events around the flagship product of the Gers, Armagnac.
Domaine de Bilé Della Vedove Family, 32 320 Bassoues Open every day from 9 am to 7 pm (closed Sunday afternoons) The tip: free tasting of the Domaine's products
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Pillardon Beekeeping Estate
Paul and Caroline Peignier are a couple of passionate and professional beekeepers, and they offer uncommon expertise in the Gers, that of honey and gingerbread.
Visiting the estate allows you to discover the world of the bee around three values that the couple conveys in the development of their products: authenticity, quality, taste.
And then, obviously, don’t hesitate to taste their delicious products (the gingerbread is really to die for!) and bring some back as a souvenir of your time in the Gers!
Domaine Apicole du Pillardon 32320 Bassoues Reception, tasting, and sales from Monday to Friday from 3 pm to 6 pm in July and by appointment the rest of the year Tour of the estate by appointment from 07/15 to 08/30 (duration 1h30 / price: 5 € and free for children under 12)
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Where to sleep in the vicinity of Auch? An evening at the Domaine de Baulieu
In the heights of the Gascon capital rises the superb Domaine de Baulieu, run by Karen Lagadec & Sébastien Cailleau. This former typical Gers farmhouse has been restored and transformed to offer a setting that is both traditional and contemporary.
This haven of nature and tranquility houses a 4-star hotel with 28 high-end rooms, while retaining the traditional spirit of the place thanks to its original wooden beams and stone walls.
In any case, it is truly a magnificent address that I highly, highly recommend you test if you are passing through Auch. On our side, we really experienced a magical evening and night there, undoubtedly one of our favorites from this trip to the Gers!
Our Eco Lodge
We had the chance to sleep in one of the brand new Eco Lodges on the property. The lodge benefits from all the modern comfort for this type of establishment, but it also integrates perfectly into the surrounding nature. We really had the feeling of being in our own little bubble, isolated from the city bustle.
To make the most of our lodge, we even decided to have our breakfast in bed, with a magnificent direct view of the Gers hills.
Room rates: from 80 € in low season and 120 € in high season_
Our dinner at the Domaine de Baulieu restaurant
Another of the establishment’s very good points is its gourmet restaurant of very high quality, in an elegant and friendly setting!
In the kitchen, there are two chefs, Maxime Deschamps and Stéphane Mazières, who complement each other perfectly and showcase fresh and local products through very beautiful plates. By walking around the Domaine, you can even discover the restaurant’s vegetable garden, a guarantee of quality and flavor.
The chefs offer a tasty and aesthetic menu, combined with a perfect balance between flavors and textures. In short, it is perhaps one of the restaurants with the best value for money that we have had the chance to test!
And then, the icing on the cake, the restaurant’s sommelier is also up to the level of the establishment, and his food and wine pairings (which we strongly advise you to take) are absolutely superb and highlight the local wines very well. Thanks to him, we discovered an unsuspected range of Côtes de Gascogne and we were very pleasantly surprised!
Restaurant of the Domaine de Baulieu Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm / for dinner Monday to Saturday from 7:30 pm to 10:00 pm L'Instantanée menu with starter + main course + dessert at 34 € / with food and wine pairing (3 glasses of wine) for 18 €
The little extra:
a heated outdoor swimming pool for nice days, but unfortunately for us in the middle of November, we couldn’t really enjoy it…
Domaine de Baulieu Chemin du Barrail – Chemin de Lussan 32000 Auch
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Bed and Breakfast A Labeyrie
Marie-Ange, Marie-Edith, and Serge welcome guests all year round in their home. For generations, their family has been dedicated to keeping their beautiful 19th-century family home alive in the tradition and respect of heritage.
We stayed in the ochre pink room, which recalls the rural world through some pretty 19th-century country furniture.
The little extra: the warm welcome of a real bed and breakfast where you have an aperitif with the owners of the house and taste some local specialties.
Bed and Breakfast A Labeyrie Quartier Coutens, 32160 Beaumarches Room prices: from 65 € per night including breakfast
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Where to eat at a Gers farmer’s? Betty Beef
This address with a very authentic setting, a barn built in 1914 by young people from the village before they left for the war, allows you to eat at the place of Charolais cow breeders who also farm organically.
Indeed, this passionate couple decided to promote their own products (you are never better served than by yourself) by creating a restaurant in the heart of their farm to promote it. And I must say that we were totally won over by this concept with the favorite photographer!
Initially, the couple opened a direct sales workshop to meet consumers and then a restaurant in the heart of the farm in an old barn.
The place offers family, local cuisine that is simple and authentic, twisted with expertly dosed exotic blends, around Charolais beef and quality local farm products to also promote other farms in the area. Which is obviously particularly commendable.
To taste: organic beef cromesquis; beef tataki; smoked beef shepherd’s pie; Betty Burger (15 € for 200g of meat and 20 € for 400g of meat).
The little extra: a shaded terrace with a view of the fields and pastures for nice days, but also of the Pyrenees mountain range.
Restaurant Betty Beef Lieu dit Lapèze, 32230 Mascaras Parking nearby Betty menu at 25 € with starter + main course + dessert
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Where to have lunch near the Flaran Abbey? Restaurant La Ferme de Flaran
This restaurant is housed in a Logis de France hotel, the Ferme de Flaran. It is located a few minutes’ drive from the Flaran Abbey, which I mentioned earlier, making it an extremely practical address for lunch if you wish to visit the monument during the day.
On the plate, the address highlights local and seasonal products from local producers through traditional cuisine. In summer, the team even harvests vegetables from the establishment’s vegetable garden, and all desserts are homemade.
Restaurant La Ferme de Flaran Bagatelle, 32310 Maignaut-tauzia Price: regional menu at 25 € with starter + main course + dessert Wine by the glass price: between 4.50 € and 7 € per glass
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Thanks to Raphaëlle from the Destination Gers Departmental Tourism Committee and to Val de Gers Tourisme for this beautiful welcome in their department and for this little moment of tourism in the Gers.
I hope that with all this, I will have made you want to do some tourism in the Gers. If you also have your good addresses and advice for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my articles on the Gers department in the Occitanie region below:
⇒ All my articles on the Gers
⇒ All my articles on Occitanie
MY ARTICLES ON THE GERS
⇒ Summer road trip (2018)
⇒ Autumn road trip (2019)
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos not copyright-free, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
