We are back in the Hérault department to discover the Passa Païs, a greenway that is part of the Véloccitanie cycling tourism route. It crosses the Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park at its widest point, following the path of three valleys through which three rivers flow: the Thoré, the Jaur, and the Orb, located in the Hérault and Tarn departments in Occitanie. Its name “Passa Païs” (pronounced “passo”) beautifully translates to “Cross Country” because as it crosses the border between the Tarn and the Hérault, it traverses the watershed divide between the Atlantic and Mediterranean slopes. In total, the Passa Païs spans 75 km of roads reserved for non-motorized travel, between Bédarieux and Mazamet. It follows the route of the former Bédarieux-Castres railway line, built at the end of the 19th century, which required the construction of numerous bridges and viaducts to “tame” the region’s rugged terrain.
For our part, we explored the Hérault section in March 2024, accompanied by our favorite photographer and my dear fellow bloggers, Mathilde from Stay Tuned for Life and Laure from Copines de Bons Plans. This route of approximately 37.3 km led us from Bédarieux to Saint-Pons-de-Thomières amidst magnificent scenery! Villages nestled in the mountains, landscapes of garrigue and vineyards stretching at the foot of the majestic Caroux massif, all within the heart of a sensitive natural area. A true breath of fresh air and relaxation.
The greenway is an ideal setting for street art, and several artists have worked on an original project to showcase the values of the Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park by decorating the bridges, tunnels, and walls along the Passa Païs—and you know how much I love that! The works are particularly visible on the Tarn side, but you can also encounter them in the Hérault section (about twenty murals). To ensure you don’t miss anything, you can pick up a free map detailing the murals at local tourist offices.
Local gastronomy to discover:
- Pélardon PDO: small raw goat’s milk cheese, iconic to the region.
- Olargues chestnuts: a local chestnut variety that is very sweet, perfect roasted or as a cream.
- Mountain charcuterie: dry sausages, country hams, terrines… Local craftsmanship to savor.
- Languedoc wines: the region is full of vineyards and appellations like AOP Saint-Chinian, Faugères, Minerve…
- Local craft beers: several breweries liven up the territory (such as Aucels, Raspailac, Alaryk…).
- On the territory of the Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park, you can find local products bearing the Valeurs Parc brand, a label shared by all Regional Natural Parks in France.
Practical Information:
- Getting to Bédarieux from Paris by train: take the train from Paris Austerlitz station to Bédarieux (approx. 6 hours) or the TGV to Béziers, then a regional train (TER), or travel to Montpellier.
- Returning to Paris from Saint-Pons-de-Thomières: There is no train station in Saint-Pons, so you must arrange a taxi or transfer to the Bédarieux or Béziers station for your return trip.
- Electric bike rentals via Cyclable Haut-Languedoc.
- If you need luggage transport between your different stops, you can call upon the company La Malle Postale.
- The greenway is marked throughout the route by numerous official road signs: route maps in parking areas, kilometer markers, greenway start and end points, access to sites or villages…
PassaPaïs
Table of Contents
Step 1: Bédarieux
Our adventure on the Passa Païs begins in Bédarieux, the starting point of our journey and the town where we picked up our electric bikes. A former mining and industrial city, Bédarieux has successfully reinvented itself by highlighting its rich natural and cultural heritage. It is part of the dynamic Grand Orb tourism territory, which also encompasses Avène and Lamalou-les-Bains (which I talk about later). It’s a paradise for nature lovers, offering a multitude of outdoor activities like hiking and, of course, cycling!
Grand Orb Tourist Office
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Discover a local brewery? La Brasserie des Aucels
La Brasserie des Aucels, founded in late 2017 by Mathieu and Émilie in Bédarieux, is an artisanal business that produces craft beers (about 300,000 bottles per year, with a dozen varieties) but also non-alcoholic beverages (over a million bottles per year), including lemonades, sodas, and iced teas, for which the brewery has a special tank. The brewery is now actually specialized in manufacturing soft drinks. The name “Aucels” means “birds” in Occitan, and the owl on their labels is a good luck symbol. The products are available at several retail locations, as well as at the brewery itself, which also offers beer tap rentals and craft shandies, as well as a range of artisanal drinks from the Strix and Bleu d’Occitanie brands.
Brasserie des Aucels
84 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 34600 Bédarieux
Step 2: Hérépian
A few pedal strokes lead us to Hérépian, a charming town strategically located at the junction of the valleys, between plain and mountain. The town experienced its golden age in the 18th and 19th centuries, notably thanks to its royal glassworks and the arrival of the railway in 1889, when the town was served by the Béziers-Castres line. Today, it’s a pleasure to stroll through its picturesque narrow streets, admire its historical heritage, and take in the surrounding rolling landscapes.
Distance : approx. 5 km between Bédarieux and Hérépian.
Grand Orb Tourist Office (Hérépian Branch – Museum)
Avenue de la Gare, 34600 Hérépian
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What to do in Hérépian? An escape game at the Bell and Cowbell Museum
Housed in the former Hérépian train station, on the edge of the greenway, the Bell and Cowbell Museum tells the history of the Granier Foundry, owned by the Granier family since 1600. This Hérépian foundry manufactured cowbells (small bells) and bells covered with copper (in fact, it is copper that gives cowbells their sound). Today, only 3 major foundries remain in France, whereas there were more than 200 at the beginning of the 20th century. The Granier foundry closed its doors in December 2011, and an ethnographic collection was gathered well before the closure, which now makes up the museum’s collections. The latter opened in 1998, but the idea had been germinating since 1989. It reopened in 2014 after 10 years of closure and has the “Musée de France” label. It is adapted for visually impaired and blind visitors, as it also has the distinct feature of allowing visitors to touch the items in the collection, including ringing the bells and cowbells to discover the secrets of their design.
For our part, we tested an escape game, Le Sauveterre (accessible by reservation at +33 4 67 95 39 95), which takes place in the empty museum outside of museum opening hours. And I must say that our little team really got into the game and we had a great time during this escape game.
Bell and Cowbell Museum
Avenue de la Gare, Hérépian
Open from May to October
Murder Party “L’Héritière” by reservation / Team of 2 to 8 people from age 15 / duration 1h30
Escape Game “La Sauveterre” / Team of 2 to 6-8 people
Rates: €5 adult / €4 for 8-18 year-olds and students aged 18-25
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Where to buy good products in Hérépian? Charcuterie Cabrié
For foodies and lovers of quality products, a stop at Charcuterie Cabrié is a must. Run by MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) charcutier-caterer Michel Aninat, this family institution has existed since 1932! They perpetuate artisanal expertise in the making of mountain charcuterie, crafted from local meats. You will find irresistible specialties such as dry sausage, country ham, terrines, and pâtés. It’s the perfect address to bring back some delicacies from your stay, which is something we certainly didn’t fail to do!
Charcuterie Cabrié
13 avenue Marcellin Albert 34600 Hérépian
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Where to eat in Hérépian? L’Ocre Rouge Restaurant
If you are passing through Hérépian, I warmly recommend dining at this restaurant, which is run by the same couple as the Des Lits sur la Place guest house that I will tell you about just after. Here, they offer homemade cuisine, using local and seasonal products as much as possible. The address also has a very good rating of 12/20 in the Gault & Millau guide.
We tasted: as a starter, pélardon cheese bonbon on a salmon gravlax and green cabbage in vinaigrette, and lightly seared scallops with a cauliflower velouté and toasted pine nuts; for the main course, squab in a smoked bacon crust with seasonal vegetables and the Aubrac-breed beef fillet (a pure product of the Cévennes mountains); for dessert, the Olargues chestnut mille-feuille with chestnut ice cream, the dark chocolate fondant with candied orange and saffron ice cream, and the Grand Marnier lace tile with ricotta mousse, pistachios, and vanilla ice cream; not to mention the aged cheese platter that highlights regional products, as well as a local wine list to explore.
L’Ocre Rouge Restaurant
12 place de la croix 34600 Hérépian
Price: 2-course menu €34 / 3-course menu €45 / 4-course menu €51
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Where to sleep in Hérépian in an “Accueil Vélo” certified accommodation? Des Lits sur la Place guest house
For our night in Hérépian, we dropped our bags at the Des Lits sur la Place guest house. Run by the charming and welcoming couple from the L’Ocre Rouge restaurant, this address has 5 tastefully decorated rooms in the heart of the village. It is the perfect place for a restful stopover, especially since it is certified Accueil Vélo, which is ideal for us cycling tourists! The breakfast, served with fresh and homemade products, was a delight.
Des Lits sur la Place Guest House
12 place de la croix 34600 Hérépian
Room rates: between €79 and €94 for 2 people (breakfast included)The tip: “Accueil Vélo” label, perfect for cyclists!
Step 3: Lamalou-les-Bains
The spa town of Lamalou-les-Bains is ideal for a very Belle Epoque stop. It holds springs that appeared in the Middle Ages but were only truly exploited—at the heart of a house serving as baths—from the 16th century, with significant development mainly in the 19th century. From the 1880s, the Lamalou-les-Bains thermal establishment was composed of 10 pools capable of holding more than 170 people: the spa resort is open all year round. It then became a preferred destination for famous figures: high dignitaries, military officers, writers, doctors, and neurologists.
Distance: approx. 3 km between Hérépian and Lamalou-les-Bains.
Cycling tip: The Passa Païs passes slightly below Lamalou. You have to make a small detour to go up to the city center (be careful, it climbs a bit!).
Grand Orb Tourist Office (Lamalou Branch)
1 Avenue de Capus, 34240 Lamalou-les-Bains
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Where to eat in Lamalou-les-Bains? Le Belleville Restaurant
This address, which has existed for 100 years, belongs to the Luchaire family with a bistro and a 3-star hotel, both in a Belle Epoque spirit. The restaurant offers traditional dishes and provides a lovely terrace, with the possibility of dining outside during nice weather.
We tasted: the Belleville almond fondants with green salad (€10.20), a specialty of the address since 1900; the Aveyron herbed “farçous” (€11); for the main course, I took a large Cévennes salad (€15.80) and the favorite photographer took the braised pork cheek from our mountains (€18).
Cycling tip: you can leave the bikes in one of the hotel’s garages while dining quietly at the restaurant.
Le Belleville Restaurant
1 Avenue Charcot, 34240 Lamalou-les-Bains
Price: Sunday menu €27 with starter + main + dessert / express menu €20 with daily starter + daily main or daily main + daily dessert / child menu €10
Step 4: Mons la Trivalle
After Lamalou, the Passa Païs continues to enchant us, leading us into the Minervois au Caroux territory (which counts 36 municipalities) towards Mons la Trivalle. This village is the gateway to the spectacular Gorges d’Héric, an unmissable natural site nestled in the heart of the Caroux massif. Mons is ideally situated for lovers of nature and outdoor activities like hiking, canyoning, or climbing. The village itself has charm, with its stone houses and peaceful atmosphere along the Orb river.
Distance: between Lamalou-les-Bains and Mons la Trivalle approx. 10 km on the Passa Païs.
Minervois au Caroux Tourist Office
Avenue de la Gare, 34390 Mons
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Hiking in the Gorges d’Héric
Impossible to pass through Mons without exploring the Gorges d’Héric! This grandiose classified natural site is carved by the Héric stream and offers breathtaking landscapes with its steep rocky cliffs, natural emerald water pools, and lush vegetation. A small paved road (prohibited to cars during the season) allows you to go up the gorges for about 10 km (approx. 3 hours of walking round trip) from the parking lot to the hamlet of Héric. It is an easy and accessible walk for everyone, ideal for a cool break or a picnic by the water. For the more athletic, numerous hiking trails start from the gorges to explore the Caroux massif.
This magical place is also steeped in legend. It is said that Cebenna, daughter of the Titans condemned by Zeus to an impossible love, came to die of grief at the summit of Caroux. Her elongated body would today form the relief of the mountain, and her eternal tears would feed the Héric stream… Poetic, isn’t it?
Cycling tip: in front of the tourist information office, you will also find places to lock your bikes and the location also offers free accessible toilets.
Tourist Information Office of the Site
Gorges d’Héric D14E4, 34390 MonsPaid parking in season (April to October), pedestrian access free all year round
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Make a local purchase? BioOrb
In Mons, we discovered BIO ORB PPAM, an exciting initiative! Born from the collaboration of several farmers a few years ago, it is now a Collective Interest Cooperative Company (SCIC) bringing together about thirty producers. They cultivate, on 50 to 60 hectares, mainly medicinal and aromatic plants in organic farming. By pooling their distillation and marketing tools, they have managed to structure a local PPAM sector. Their hydrosols, floral waters, and essential oils are sold in grocery stores, at markets, and via brands like Terra Etica (Biocoop) and Ethiquable (supermarkets). It is a beautiful approach that helps valorize abandoned lands and offer supplementary income to farmers. A staff member is present every Monday afternoon for purchases and visits.
Bio Orb PPAM
ZA les Molières, 34390 Mons
Price: hydrosols €5 / floral waters between €7 and €8 / essential oils between €7 and €18
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Where to sleep in Mons? Manoir la Trivalle
This guest house & gîtes is set in Mons-la-Trivalle, in the heart of the Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park, in a beautiful 18th-century mansion and its outbuilding. The Manoir de la Trivalle benefits from an exceptional natural setting near the Gorges d’Héric, allowing you to enjoy hiking (as we did, see paragraph above) and outdoor activities. The hosts of this guest house, Bert and Henny, offer a warm welcome and also a table d’hôtes (which we were able to test) with dishes based on local (an opportunity to discover a local beer from Brasserie Raspailac) and organic products. Another asset of the place is the large flowering and shaded garden, as well as a swimming pool for sunny days (which we unfortunately couldn’t enjoy).
Manoir la Trivalle
65 Route des Gorges d’Heric, 34390 Mons
Rates: room for 2 people from €90 / table d’hôtes by reservation €29 per person
The tip: “Accueil Vélo” label and possibility of table d’hôtes on site
Step 5: Olargues
Nestled in a loop of the Jaur river, on the ancient medieval route and “Nîmes-Toulouse” trade route, Olargues is a medieval town from the 12th century which is now classified among the “Most Beautiful Villages of France” and counts about 500-600 inhabitants. It is extremely pleasant to wander through its narrow streets, which are the village’s originality, with its old houses, covered passages, and timber-framed facades. I particularly recommend going to the top of the town to see the ancient castrum from the 12th and 13th centuries (the 12th-century dungeon was later transformed into a bell tower). And you can also take the opportunity to have a very beautiful view of the surroundings.
Also to see: the Eiffel-style bridge that dates back to 1889, which the greenway passes over; the Saint-Laurent church dating back to the 17th century, with its 1850 Clergeau organ classified as a Historical Monument and its organ concerts; the Commandery staircase located on Rue de la Commanderie with a small museum of popular arts and traditions; the Old Bridge or “Devil’s Bridge” which dates back to the 12th century, during the town’s development and expansion.
The specialty: the Olargues chestnut, an iconic fruit of the chestnut tree, has been grown in the Haut-Languedoc for at least 6,000 years and is very sweet.
The tip: on the edge of the greenway, at the Saint Vincent d’Olargues area, you will find a food truck from April/May during the beautiful season as well as a small producers’ market on Saturday mornings.
Distance : between Mons and Olargues approx. 4 km.
Itinerary: When leaving Olargues in the direction of Saint-Pons-de-Thomières on the Passa Païs, don’t miss taking a small detour (approx. 1.5 km after Olargues) to admire the karst resurgence of Fréjo, an impressive source that springs at the foot of a cliff.
Caroux en Haut Languedoc Intercommunal Tourist Office
Avenue de la Gare, 34390 Olargues
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Where to eat in Olargues? Le Funambule
Located in Olargues, the restaurant Le Funambule is an address that offers local cuisine with a varied menu highlighting products from the region. Among the specialties not to be missed, I recommend the fresh trout fillet (€20), from surrounding fish farms, caught locally and served with fries and salad. To accompany your meal, I also suggest tasting a craft beer from the Alaryk brewery, located in Béziers.
Le Funambule Bar Restaurant
Avenue du Champ des Horts, 34390 Olargues
Price: starters between €8.50 and €9.50 / main courses between €14 and €22
The tip: daily set menu €16 with main + dessert
Step 6: Saint-Pons-de-Thomières
Our journey on the Passa Païs ends at Saint-Pons-de-Thomières, a town with a rich heritage, located at the foot of the Montagne Noire and the Somail mountains. The town is renowned for its numerous marble quarries exploited since the Middle Ages, which have made its reputation. In fact, keep your eyes peeled; many of the town’s sidewalks are paved with it!
To see: the source of the Jaur, the Saint-Pons Cathedral, and its impressive 18th-century Micot organ with its Louis XV style buffet (see photos below).
Distance: between Olargues and Saint-Pons-de-Thomières approx. 16 km.
Pays Saint-Ponais Intercommunal Tourist Office
Place du Foirail, 34220 Saint-Pons-de-Thomières
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Where to eat in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières? La Croix Blanche restaurant
For our dinner in Saint-Pons, we tested La Croix Blanche, located about a 10-minute walk from our Occit’Homière guest house. It’s a simple and friendly restaurant that offers traditional and generous cuisine.
We tasted: flambéed prawns with pastis and aioli (€22); French duck breast from the Rougié house (€17); for drinks, the restaurant offers a small selection of local wines by the bottle or carafe (glass €2.50 / 25cl €4 / 50cl €8).
La Croix Blanche Restaurant
1 Chemin de Camp Soulel 34220 Saint-Pons
Price: menu at €28 with starter + main + dessert / à la carte starters between €9 and €12 / mains between €16 and €22 / desserts between €3 and €7
The tip: daily lunch menu on weekdays €15.50 with starter + main + dessert
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Where to eat in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières? Chez Michou
For a simple and quick lunch before hitting the road, Chez Michou is a good option. It’s a small village restaurant that offers a daily menu at a very reasonable price.
We tasted: cod in a broccoli curry cream; sausage with mushroom sauce.
Chez Michou
1 Grand Rue, 34220 Saint-Pons-de-Thomières
Price: daily menu with a set at €15.50 with starter + main + dessert / set at €13.50 with starter + main or main + dessert / daily main €11.50
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Where to sleep in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières? Occit’Homières guest house
For our last night on the Passa Païs, we stayed at the Occit’Homières guest house. Ideally located in a quiet area, between the greenway and the Salesse stream, this address is perfect for cyclists. It offers two options: the Espinouse family suite (2 bedrooms, 4 people) and the Caroux room (ideal for a couple), which was ours. The welcome is warm, and the setting very restful after a day of cycling.
Occit’Homières Guest House
Le Faubourg, avenue de la Gare, Les Fougères 34220 Saint-Pons-de-ThomièresOpen all year round
Rates: night from €95 to €150 (breakfast included)
The tip: free Wi-Fi and breakfast included in the rate
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What to do in the area? Visit to the Grotte de la Fileuse de Verre in Courniou
A few kilometers from Saint-Pons, don’t miss the visit to the Grotte de la Fileuse de Verre in Courniou. This cave, formerly named the Grotte de la Devèze, holds splendors of the underground world, and numerous cavities are accessible to the public through guided tours. The cave was discovered in 1887 by French railway miners and terracers, because it is located right next to the old train station in front of which the greenway passes today. This makes it one of the 10 caves in France with the oldest discovery date. This unique cave stands out for its very diverse cave formations, and you can find both limestone and shale. It is also the only visitable cave where you can admire a “jagged drapery,” a geological creation still very mysterious in its formation.
Incredible fact, the upper part of the cave has been open to visitors since 1933, and the Cornioux spéléo club is one of the oldest in France. The guided tour of the site lasts 1 hour and you climb up and down about 900 steps in total during the visit. You will discover in particular the “Gros Rocher” room which is very impressive. Inside the cave, there is a constant temperature of 12°C, so remember to bring a light sweater and non-slip shoes. As for the current name of the cave, “La Fileuse de Verre” (The Glass Spinner), it relates to the fine cave formations that weave a link to the spinning mills established in the region. The site is also classified within the surrounding Haut-Languedoc Regional Natural Park.
Grotte de la Fileuse de Verre
34220 Courniou-les-Grottes
Site open for visits between April and SeptemberRates: €11 adult / €6 child (from 6 to 12 years)
Thanks to the Grand Orb and Minervois-Caroux tourist offices, as well as Hérault Tourisme for organizing this great stay in the Hérault to discover the Passa Païs. And also thanks to Sabrina for organizing this great trip! If you want to know more, don’t hesitate to check out the articles by my travel friends about this stay: Laure from Copines de Bons Plans and Mathilde from Stay Tuned for Life.
I hope that with all this I have made you want to follow the Passa Païs, and if you also have your own good addresses and tips for this bike route, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; the photographer's authorization is mandatory before any use
