The catacombs that we visit are actually former quarries transformed at the end of the 18th century into a gigantic ossuary, following a decision by the Council of State in 1785 that could no longer tolerate the Holy Innocents’ Cemetery—a source of infections, among other things—right in the middle of the city.
It was decided that the cemeteries, including that of the Innocents, along with many others, would be emptied at night into the Tombe-Issoire quarries! From their inception, the catacombs were the subject of visits and clandestine concerts just to get a good scare!!!
English engraving from 1822
First of all, the entrance seems discreet: a small, bottle-green shack on the Place Denfert-Rochereau.
You’ll notice it by the lonnnnnnng queue!!! My advice: arrive for opening time, around 9:45 AM!!! A small sign lets you know that the number of visitors is limited to 200 people inside the site, that you will walk for about 1.7 km, and for about 45 minutes.
Warning: “No toilets, no cloakroom“. You are also informed that there is a constant temperature of 14°C (57°F) and that the visit is not recommended “for people suffering from heart or respiratory failure, sensitive individuals, or young children. The Catacombs are not accessible to people with reduced mobility“. There, you can’t say you weren’t warned! If you go, it’s because you really want to!… Ready?
So, after all these instructions, you finally enter the holy of holies: you have a small booth to get your ticket and an audio guide (for €3, don’t miss out on it!), then you head down 130 steps in a narrow spiral staircase!!! Just like in a lighthouse, except that… you’re going down to visit!!!
The temperature is indeed pleasant; however, as the lighting is dim, consider bringing a flashlight that shines very, very brightly: it will be useful to you throughout your… stroll! Also, think about wearing good shoes because the ground is slippery in some places.
Once at the bottom of the stairs, your head spins a little! That’s normal; you just went down 130 steps after all!!! You are going to discover the quarries—or rather, a tiny part of them—that lie beneath Paris, and their stories (long live the audio guide).
Long, dimly lit galleries clearly show you the atmosphere in which men used to come to extract blocks of stone to build the city above! It’s impressive… You shouldn’t be claustrophobic or… tall!
In some places, those over 1.80m (approx 5’11”) will have to watch their heads! In reality, you won’t walk in a straight line through these galleries; instead, you’ll follow a true labyrinth that will lead to a few surprises (shhh, I have to keep some surprises) and, above all, will take you to the ossuary! “STOP! THIS IS THE EMPIRE OF DEATH“…
Still just as poorly lit, you find yourself between two walls of bones piled up to create geometric patterns (chevrons, etc.) or shapes (heart, cross…).
No flash, I remind you, which means your photos will look ghostly and strange… Fortunately, some guards have lamps to illuminate certain details… After this visit to the dead, you will have to climb up 83 steps!
Take a deep breath and… here we go again for the turnstile! Careful, the staircase is just as dimly lit as the first and very narrow! You finally emerge into the open air, the light, and… in front of a “Catacombes de Paris” gift shop!! Clever!
It’s truly impressive to imagine this nighttime moving of cemeteries… it couldn’t have been easy! It is also moving to see the care taken for these unknown dead, the desire to arrange these bones into patterns, to label the original cemeteries, and to add maxims: “They were what we are. Dust, the toy of the wind; Fragile as men, Weak as nothingness” — Lamartine.
So, if you are not claustrophobic, don’t have heart problems, and are not too… how should I put it… not too “shapely” (like Obelix’s brother, because he wouldn’t fit through the exit staircase!), go for it!!!! It really is a must-do! Even if there are a maximum of 200 people in the site at the same time, you don’t feel crowded; it’s very well organized!
Don’t forget 3 things:
- arrive early!!! otherwise, it’s a two-hour wait,
- bring a good flashlight,
- go with company, it’s nicer…
- oh, and remember to use the toilet beforehand! The visit is about 45 minutes, but in the morning after a big mug of coffee, it could feel long!!!! (don’t panic, there are toilets in the shop across from the exit: consider dropping a coin in the box to thank the manager!).
I haven’t included some photos to preserve a bit of suspense and surprise, and honestly, the photos don’t capture the strange atmosphere of the place! Enjoy your visit, everyone!
Catacombs 1 avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy 75014 Paris Hours: every day from 10 am to 5 pm, except Mondays and public holidays / ticket offices close at 4 pm Price: €13 full price and €11 reduced price / free for up to 17 years old inclusive, for job seekers, for disabled persons, and for the Friends of the Carnavalet Museum
article written by Eloha / Photos by Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's authorization required before any use
