In October 2021, I headed to Alsace for a 4-day cycling trip with my friend Mathilde from Stay Tuned for Life to discover the Three Countries Bike Trail! This international cycle tourism route of about 200 km (including 45 km in the Sundgau, or “South Alsace”), was created in 1996 and offers a loop through France, Switzerland, and Germany (3 countries, hence the name!) on both sides of the Rhine. It connects the cities of Mulhouse, Bad Bellingen, Lörrach, Basel, Arlesheim, and the Sundgau. A beautiful route, which I will describe to you in detail in this article!
Below, I offer a brief description of our itinerary in chronological order, with my suggestions for stops along the way, ideas for things to visit, and as always, my selection of great addresses on the route!
Table of Contents
Practical Information about the Three Countries Bike Trail
We rented electric bikes for this 4-day itinerary with Trace Verte and I have to say that even while using the bike assistance a lot, you need to be quite athletic to complete the route in 4 days. If you want to take more time to visit places and go at a cool pace, I would say planning the trip over 5 days seems more reasonable. Unless, of course, you are very athletic and don’t wish to stop too much along the way, in which case 3/4 days will suffice.
Regarding weather conditions, we were lucky to have very beautiful weather on the first 3 days of our route in October, and I indeed recommend doing this itinerary during the nice days between April and October.
Equipment for the E-bikes: we had panniers and small bags at the front of the bikes, essential items for taking with us the things necessary for our day (spare clothing and several layers of clothing; our mobile phones, very useful for following the route with the GPX Viewer application, GPX track to download from the Alsace à vélo website; our cameras; a water bottle; some small snacks in case of fatigue; the E-bike batteries). As for our luggage, we were lucky enough to have it transported from one stop to the next every day.
The Roads of the Three Countries Bike Trail : overall the road is easy (especially on an electric bike) and very comfortable, largely on secured paths; you just have to follow the small light blue logo of the Three Countries Bike Trail “Dreiland Radweg”, also called “three countries route or circuit”, marked on the signs along the route (sometimes the signs are a bit hidden, so I recommend you be very attentive, and you will certainly get lost from time to time, which is why it is essential to have downloaded the GPS route before the journey).
Stage 1: Mulhouse (France)
It had been a long time since I had been to this city in the Haut-Rhin, and I kept fond memories of it. Unfortunately, it was a lightning visit at the beginning and end of our journey, and I hope to be able to write a more complete article on the Alsatian city for you very soon. There is actually a street art trail (the map is available at the Mulhouse tourist office) that looks like a lot of fun to do.
Mulhouse was therefore the starting point, but also the arrival point of our Three Countries Bike Trail. I will therefore offer you below just one address for lunch and two ideas for bike rides to do during your stay in Mulhouse.
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Where to have lunch in Mulhouse? Tilvist
This hybrid venue is both a boutique and a tea room, and it is run by a woman full of pep and dynamism. The place is ideal for a relaxed lunch break or a weekend brunch. Plus, cultural, musical, or wellness events are regularly organized there.
To taste: Garnished pretzel (5 €); mixed salads (9 €); beers from a local artisanal micro-brewery like the Sainte Cru brewery (5 € per 33cl bottle); praline cookie (1.50 €).
Tilvist
23 rue de la Moselle 68100 Mulhouse
Open every day except Monday and Sunday
Lunch set menu with choice of drink + main course + dessert for 13.50 €
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Take a guided bike tour with a greeter
At the beginning of our trip, we went on a guided bike tour with Florent, a greeter (locals who show you their city for free as volunteers, whom I’ve mentioned to you several times on the blog).
He took us through the industrial district of the city and past the old textile printing workers’ houses to show us “his Mulhouse.” It was a great opportunity to understand the rich industrial past of the city of Mulhouse (with the old DMC factory, for example, which makes sewing thread and still employs about 200 people today). Being on a bike allowed us to quickly move away from the city center and see those slightly more outlying areas that you rarely visit when on foot.
We also discovered the cité ouvrière of Mulhouse, a neighborhood built for the workers of the city’s textile factories at the end of the 19th century. I also recommend checking out the cité Manifeste, a complex of 61 housing units that adopts the philosophy and urban plan of the cité ouvrière, reinterpreted by big names in architecture for the 150th anniversary of the cité ouvrière.
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To visit in the surroundings of Mulhouse: the Abbey Church of Ottmarsheim
Located on the Romanesque Route of Alsace, the Saints Peter and Paul church in Ottmarsheim is a jewel of 11th-century Romanesque architecture and is well worth a short stop. Built between 1030 and 1040 by Rudolf of Altenburg, one of the founders of the Habsburg family, it is a copy of the Palatine Chapel in Aachen with its octagonal centered plan. It can be visited, notably through costumed theatrical guided tours that immerse us in the heart of the 11th century with the Count or Countess of Altenburg.
Abbey Church of Ottmarsheim
1 Rue du Couvent, 68490 Ottmarsheim
Free access every day from 8 am to 6 pm
Prices for costumed theatrical guided tours (duration 1h, on weekends): 5 € adult / free for children under 12 (reservation required)
More info on the website of the Ottmarsheim town hall
Accessible by bike via the 3 Countries Loop (count a solid 1h30 of cycling from Mulhouse)
Stage 2: Bad Bellingen (Germany)
On the road (and by bike!) we crossed the border without difficulty to find ourselves in Germany. Our first stop while riding along the Rhine was the town of Bad Bellingen. This German municipality in Baden-Württemberg is located in the district of Freiburg, in the southern part of the Black Forest, and it is mainly known for its thermal waters, which are particularly recommended for treating joint and back pain.
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Where to relax in Bad Bellingen? Balinea Thermal Baths
These baths, which are located in the heart of a wooded park, are a very popular place for relaxation for the town’s residents and tourists passing through. After a good day of cycling, I admit that relaxing my muscles in the establishment’s hot springs was extremely soothing! Unfortunately, we couldn’t take many photos inside the thermal baths because it is generally not authorized and frowned upon by the other guests.
On the program for the 1000 m² aquatic area: a natural thermal water pool with temperatures varying between 34 and 36°C; a sauna area; two large outdoor pools with currents, massaging lounge chairs, etc.; a large lawn adorned with lounge chairs; a “wellness world” area; and a fitness bar with food service.
Balinea Thermal Baths
Badstraße 14, 79415 Bad Bellingen
Prices: individual entry ticket Monday to Friday 16.50 € and 18 € on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays
The tip: evening rate from 6 pm for 8.50 €
Link to the thermal baths’ website
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Where to dine in Bad Bellingen? Restaurant at Hotel Markushof
This 3-star hotel, run by the Speck family, also offers a quality restaurant in Bad Bellingen. We didn’t stay there, but we had a very lovely gourmet evening, ideal for discovering the region’s specialties.
Must-try: their delicious potato pancake, which I had multiple servings of.
Restaurant at Hotel Markushof
Badstraß6, 79415 Bad Bellingen
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Where to stay in Bad Bellingen? Aparthotel Badblick (closed)
The Aparthotel Badblick is ideally located in Bad Bellingen, as you can easily walk to the Balinea thermal baths, which I mentioned earlier. This hotel is perfect for cyclists because it has the “Bett und Bike” label and a secure bike garage!
Aparthotel Badblick (closed)
Rheinstraße 4, 79415 Bad Bellingen
Step 3: Lörrach (Germany)
This town in the southwest of Baden-Württemberg, located at the crossroads of three countries, is very commercially and culturally dynamic. It is also home to many textile industries, a bit like Mulhouse. We made a cultural stop here by bike during the day to visit the Museum of the Three Countries and Rötteln Castle.
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What to do in Lörrach? Visit the Museum of the Three Countries
The Museum of the Three Countries, which has received several awards, is the only tri-national museum in Europe. In addition to the exhibition on the Three Countries in German and French, it also features the central permanent exhibition on the present and past of the Three Frontiers region in the Upper Rhine. It also hosts several temporary exhibitions every year. Finally, there is a room with an exhibition on the war of 1870, which notably explains the situation of Alsace when it became German again in 1871, then French in 1918/1919, and then German again during the Second World War.
I find visiting this museum extremely interesting for trying to understand the very specific situation of this composite region, and it perfectly echoes the 3 Countries Bike Loop.
Museum of the Three Countries
Basler Straße 143, 79540 Lörrach (two minutes from the market square)
museum open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Rates: €3 adult / €1 reduced / free under 6 years old
Link to the museum’s website
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What to do in Lörrach? Visit Rötteln Castle
Rötteln Castle is one of the largest castle ruins in Southern Baden. It is located on a rocky spur overlooking Lörrach and offers visitors an extraordinary view: over Lörrach and the Rhine Valley, towards Basel and as far as the Alps. It is therefore an essential stop if you are in the area. A small part of the castle is accessible by paying an entrance fee (the part we didn’t visit), but the majority of the site is accessible for free, which is very convenient. There is even a place to park and secure your bike!
Rötteln Castle
Burg Rötteln, 79541 Lörrach
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Where to have lunch in Lörrach? At Fräulein Burg
This address is the restaurant of Rötteln Castle, which I just told you about. On sunny days, it is very pleasant to have lunch on the terrace of the establishment, which offers a magnificent view of the surroundings.
As for the food, it’s quite simple, but it’s an opportunity to taste some German specialties. Be careful not to be caught out like we were by ordering an Alsatian “salad” when opting for a balanced dish, because in reality, there are no vegetables in it! However, the whole menu is completely in German, so if you don’t speak German, it can be slightly problematic (thankfully, a lady who spoke French helped us…). It was also an opportunity for me to enjoy a “small” German beer.
Restaurant Fräulein Burg
Röttelnweiler 47, 79541 Lörrach
Step 4: Basel (Switzerland)
After Germany, here we are in the 3rd country of the loop, Switzerland. We took a quick bike tour of the city of Basel, which I will tell you about very soon in a much more complete article, because I have since returned for a weekend in the Swiss city.
We made a quick, essential stop at the Dreïlandereck in Basel, a key historical site located at the intersection of 3 countries on the banks of the Rhine: France, Switzerland, and Germany. From there, you can admire the Three Countries Bridge (the symbol of the itinerary) between Weil am Rhein (Germany) and Huningue (France). Also, stop by the City Hall, which is surprising with its red facade and polychrome murals, then you can explore the narrow streets of Basel on foot, particularly the “Gerbergässlein” passage, known for its street art. Don’t miss the Barfüsserplatz, the Tinguely Fountain—a famous work composed of animated mechanical sculptures—and finally, visit the Basel Minster (Basler Münster). From the terrace located behind the cathedral, you will also have a stunning view of the city’s rooftops and the river.
Some photo spots in Basel: the Three Countries Bridge, the banks of the Rhine, the Eaux-Vives park, the port of Basel, the “Récup’Art” bars in Klybeck, the Tinguely Fountain, the Basel Minster, the City Hall, the Gerbergässlein street art mural.
Note for cyclists: some areas of the city are pedestrian-only, especially the narrow side streets.
Step 5: Arlesheim (Switzerland)
This charming traditional Swiss village is still located in Switzerland, about 10 km from Basel, which I just talked to you about, in the canton of Basel-Landschaft.
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Where to stay in Arlesheim? Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
This 4-star hotel, housed in an old traditional building, welcomes cycle tourists with adapted amenities and is the first of its kind in northwestern Switzerland. There is a special spot in the parking lot for bikes, including everything you need to plug in your electric bike during your stay (which is extremely convenient, I have to admit). Mathilde and I stayed in a large double room with two extremely comfortable single beds. And the breakfast was also of very high quality, which is always an appreciated plus.
Good deal: for hotel guests, there is a bar on every floor with complimentary drinks available (beer from a Basel brewery, mineral water, Nespresso coffee, and tea), as well as fresh fruit.
Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
Ermitagestrasse 16, 4144 Arlesheim
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Where to dine in Arlesheim? Restaurant at the Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
The hotel restaurant where we stayed is well-known in the area for its meat specialties, using the best cuts from their own butcher shop with the famous “Jenzer Natura” quality label. Chef Dominic Meier offers dishes based on seasonal market produce. It is a place highly appreciated by gourmets in the region and wine lovers.
If you are staying at the hotel, I strongly advise you to treat yourself by trying this fine dining spot to discover regional specialties and also some good local wines!
Restaurant at the Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
Good deal: the daily menu for 28 CHF (Monday to Friday for lunch)
Price: 3-course menu 78 CHF / 4-course menu 87 CHF / a la carte starters between 14 and 25 CHF / a la carte main dishes between 35 and 55 CHF
Step 6: The Sundgau (Southern Alsace, France)
The “Sundgau” is a territory located in southern Alsace on a seismic fault line, distinguished by its beautiful half-timbered farmhouse houses, numerous ponds, magnificent landscapes, and authentic heritage. The culture of the Alsatian Jura is also very strong in this region.
When you pass through the Sundgau by bike, I especially recommend visiting the charming traditional villages in the region. I have given some ideas below of places to discover! Unfortunately, we couldn’t take full advantage of it, because it was from this part of the journey that it rained cats and dogs almost non-stop, so it was a little less conducive to sightseeing.
- Altkirch: This is the capital of the Sundgau; you can discover the Sundgauvien Museum there, as well as a walking tour of the Street Art works created on several building facades in the city, not to mention the exhibitions at the CRAC (Rhine Center for Contemporary Art).
- Illtall: A new municipality born from the merger of Oberdorf, Grentzingen, and Henflingen, featuring an alignment of beautiful, richly flowered half-timbered houses along its main street.
- Hirsingue: This small town of 2,700 inhabitants is part of the exclusive club of 11 Alsatian municipalities to have been awarded a 4th flower. It is crossed by the small Felbach stream, where ducks are legion. Its streets, shaded by beautiful linden trees and adorned with lovely half-timbered houses, are perfect for a gentle, bucolic stroll. This is actually where we stayed during our time in this area, and I am giving you some great addresses in Hirsingue below for sleeping and eating locally.
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Visiting Landskron Castle
Perched in the Alsatian Jura, a stone’s throw from the village of Leymen and Switzerland, Landskron Castle overlooks the entire valley. It was converted into a garrison based on plans by Vauban (1689), burned and bombed in 1817, and finally listed as a Historic Monument in 1923. You can explore a 13th-century keep, towers, and the remains of the chapel and the well. Visiting the ruins of this castle makes for a pleasant moment for a walk in the green.
A note for cyclists: the climb up to the castle is really steep, and even with the electric assistance of our bikes, Mathilde and I really struggled! So, to make this climb without electric bikes, you really need to be well-trained!
Landskron Castle
Access: After the train station, take Rue du Landskron, follow it until the intersection with Rue Annexe Tannwald where you must turn left and head up towards the Landskron.
The good deal: the castle ruins are freely and openly accessible for visits.
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Visiting the Oltingue Peasant Museum
This peasant museum was created in the 60s by a priest who collected items from the inhabitants with the goal of showing the rural world that was disappearing. The museum is housed in a 16th-century house, which used to be an old inn and a horse post. Don’t hesitate to make a small stop for a dive into the rural authenticity of the region.
Oltingue Peasant Museum
10 Rue Principale, 68480 Oltingue
open Sunday from 2 PM to 5 PM from March 1st to November 15th, and Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 3 PM to 6 PM from June 15th to September 30th
Price: €2.50 admission
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Where to have lunch in Leymen? La Couronne d’Or
This restaurant is located in Leymen, so it is the ideal place to have lunch after your visit to Landskron Castle, for example. It has a very pleasant terrace for the summer (which was unfortunately closed when we visited). The place offers fresh and seasonal products, but it lacked a bit of local specialties for my taste.
Restaurant La Couronne d’Or
10 rue principale, 68220 Leymen
Price: starters between €4 and €16 / main courses between €16 and €34
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Where to stay in Hirsingue? Eichestuba B&B
This charming B&B, recently fully renovated, is located in the small village of Hirsingue. For info, Eichestuba means the oak room in Alsatian. We were welcomed very warmly by Marie-Ange and Didier Duchene who host us at their place. For my part, I stayed in the Vignoble room.
The little extra: if you are a wine lover like me, Didier also sells local wines if you want to discover the vineyard of this region, as well as some local artisan products!
Eichestuba B&B
28 rue Raoul Lang, 68560 Hirsingue
Rates: €52 for one person including breakfast / €60 for 2 people including breakfast
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Where to have dinner in Hirsingue? Auberge des 3 Vallées
This small family inn run by Annick and Pieter Harens is nestled in the village of Hirsingue, a 5-minute walk from the B&B I just told you about above, which makes it the ideal place to eat if you are staying there. The restaurant offers a rich and varied local cuisine, and I particularly advise you to taste the Sundgau specialty that I loved: the famous fried carp (a good tip given at the B&B where we stayed: take the “fillet” of fried carp to avoid bones / €20.30). A must-try in the region! For dessert, I also recommend the iced kougelhopf with Alsatian kirsch (€7.90).
Auberge des 3 Vallées
16 rue d’Altkirch 68560 Hirsingue
Closed days: Monday evening and Wednesday
Price: terroir menu at 32.30 € / market menu at 37.80 €
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Thanks to the Alsace tourist office, to Alsace à vélo, to the Mulhouse tourist office, to the Bad Belligen tourist office, to the Pays de Saint-Louis tourist office, to the Sundgau tourist office, and to the aiRPur agency for this wonderful welcome. And thanks also to my amazing travel companion, my Mathilde, for her good humor, her patience, and for looking after me during the tricky moments (don’t hesitate to take a look at her article on this itinerary)!
I hope that all of this has made you want to discover or rediscover Alsace and the 3 Countries Loop, and if you have your own top tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan and Stay Tuned for Life Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
