In October 2021, I set off for Alsace for a 4-day cycling trip with my friend Mathilde from Stay Tuned for Life to discover the 3 Countries Loop! This international cycle touring route of about 200 km (including 45 km in the Sundgau, or “South Alsace”), was created in 1996 and offers a circuit through France, Switzerland, and Germany (hence the 3 countries!) on both sides of the Rhine. It connects the cities of Mulhouse, Bad Bellingen, Lörrach, Basel, Arlesheim, and the Sundgau. A beautiful route that I will describe in detail in this article!
Below, I offer a brief description of our itinerary in chronological order, along with my suggested stops along the way, ideas for things to visit, and, as always, my selection of great addresses along the route!
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Practical Information about the 3 Countries Loop
We rented electric bikes for this 4-day itinerary with Trace Verte, and I must say that even with heavy use of the bike assistance, you need to be quite athletic to complete the course in 4 days. If you want to take more time to visit the sights and maintain a relaxed pace, I would say planning the route over 5 days seems more reasonable. Unless, of course, you are very athletic and don’t wish to stop too much on the way, in which case 3-4 days will suffice.
Regarding weather conditions, we were lucky to have very good weather for the first 3 days of our journey in October, and I do recommend doing this route during fine weather between April and October.
E-bike gear: we had panniers and small bags at the front of the bikes, essential items for carrying the necessary objects for our day (spare clothes and several layers; our mobile phones, which are very useful for tracking the route using the GPX Viewer app, with the GPX track to be downloaded from the Alsace à Vélo website; our cameras; a water bottle; some snacks in case of fatigue; and the e-bike batteries). As for our luggage, we were fortunate enough to have it transported from one stage to the next every day.
The 3 Countries Loop roads: overall, the route is easy (especially on an electric bike) and very comfortable, mostly on secure paths. You just need to follow the light blue logo of the 3 Countries Loop “Dreiland Radweg”, also called the “Three Countries Route or Circuit,” written on signs along the path (sometimes the signs are a bit hidden, so I recommend being very attentive; you will certainly get lost from time to time, which is why it is essential to have downloaded the GPS route before starting your journey).
Stage 1: Mulhouse (France)
It had been a long time since I last visited this city in the Haut-Rhin, of which I had fond memories. Unfortunately, it was just a quick stop at the beginning and end of our journey, and I hope to be able to provide you with a more complete article on the Alsatian city very soon. There is actually a street art route (the map of which is available at the Mulhouse Tourist Office) that seems very cool to do.
Mulhouse was the starting point and end point of our 3 Countries Loop. So, I will suggest below just one address for lunch and two ideas for bike rides during your stay in Mulhouse.
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Where to have lunch in Mulhouse? Tilvist
This hybrid place is a shop, but also a tea room, and it is run by a woman full of pep and energy. The place is ideal for a relaxed lunch break or a brunch on the weekend. In addition, cultural, musical, or well-being events are regularly organized there.
To taste: garni pretzel (€5); mixed salads (€9); beers from a local craft microbrewery such as the Sainte Cru brewery (€5 per 33cl bottle); praline cookie (€1.50).
Tilvist
23 rue de la Moselle 68100 Mulhouse
Open every day except Monday and Sunday
Lunch formula with choice of drink + main dish + dessert for €13.50
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Take a guided bike tour with a greeter
During our stay at the beginning of our trip, we took a guided bike tour with Florent, a greeter (locals who show their city in a volunteer and free way, which I have already mentioned several times on the blog).
He took us into the industrial district of the city and the former workers’ houses of textile printing to help us discover “his Mulhouse.” It was an opportunity to understand the rich industrial past of the city of Mulhouse (with the former DMC factory, for example, which makes sewing thread and still employs about 200 people today). And being on bikes allowed us to move quickly away from the city center and go see these slightly more out-of-the-way places that one rarely visits when on foot.
We also discovered the cité ouvrière of Mulhouse, a neighborhood for factory textile workers in the city built at the end of the 19th century. I also recommend you go see the Cité Manifeste, a set of 61 housing units, incorporating the philosophy and urban planning scheme of the workers’ city while reinterpreting it by big names in architecture for the 150th anniversary of the workers’ city.
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To visit in the surroundings of Mulhouse: The Ottmarsheim Abbey Church
Located on the Alsace Romanesque Route, the Saints Peter and Paul church in Ottmarsheim is a jewel of Romanesque architecture from the 11th century and is well worth a stop. Built between 1030 and 1040 by Rodolphe of Altenbourg, one of the founders of the Habsburg family, it is a copy of the Palatine Chapel in Aachen with its octagonal centered plan. It can be visited, notably through costumed theatrical guided tours that plunge us into the heart of the 11th century with the Count or Countess of Altenbourg.
Ottmarsheim Abbey Church
1 Rue du Couvent, 68490 Ottmarsheim
Free access every day from 8 AM to 6 PM
Prices for costumed theatrical guided tours (duration 1h, weekends): €5 adult / free for children under 12 (reservation required)
More info on the website of the Ottmarsheim town hall
Accessible by bike via the 3 Countries Loop (allow at least 1h30 of cycling from Mulhouse)
Stage 2: Bad Bellingen (Germany)
On the road (and by bike!), we crossed the border without difficulty to find ourselves in Germany. Our first stop along the Rhine was the town of Bad Bellingen. This German municipality in Baden-Württemberg is located in the district of Freiburg, in the southern part of the Black Forest, and it is mainly known for its thermal waters, which are particularly indicated for the treatment of joint and back pain.
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Where to relax in Bad Bellingen? Balinea Thermal Baths
These thermal baths, located in the heart of a wooded park, are a very popular relaxation spot for city residents and passing tourists. After a good day of cycling, I admit that relaxing one’s muscles in the establishment’s hot springs was extremely soothing! Unfortunately, we were not able to take many photos inside the thermal baths, as it is generally little authorized and poorly perceived by other clients of the baths.
On the program for more than 1000 m² of aquatic space: a natural thermal water pool with a temperature ranging between 34 and 36°C; a sauna area; two large outdoor pools with currents, massaging lounge chairs, etc.; a large lawn adorned with lounge chairs; a “wellness universe” area; and a health bar with dining.
Balinea Thermal Baths
Badstraße 14, 79415 Bad Bellingen
Prices: individual card admission Monday to Friday €16.50 and €18 on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays
The great tip: evening rate from 6 PM for €8.50
Link to the thermal baths website
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Where to have dinner in Bad Bellingen? Restaurant of the Hotel Markushof
This 3-star hotel run by the Speck family also offers a quality restaurant in Bad Bellingen. We did not stay there, but we spent a very nice gastronomic evening there, ideal for discovering the specialties of the region.
To taste: their delicious potato pancake, of which I had several servings.
Restaurant of the Hotel Markushof
Badstraß 6, 79415 Bad Bellingen
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Where to stay in Bad Bellingen? Aparthotel Badblick
The Aparthotel Badblick is ideally located in Bad Bellingen, as you can easily reach the Balinea thermal baths, which I mentioned above, on foot. This hotel is perfect for cyclists because it is labeled “Bett und Bike” and has a secure bike garage!
Aparthotel Badblick
Rheinstraße 4, 79415 Bad Bellingen
Stage 3: Lörrach (Germany)
This town in the southwest of Baden-Württemberg, located at the crossroads of the three countries, is very commercial and culturally dynamic. It also houses many textile industries, much like in Mulhouse. We made a cultural bike stop during the day to visit the Museum of the Three Countries and Rötteln Castle.
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What to do in Lörrach? Visit the Museum of the Three Countries
The Museum of the Three Countries, distinguished several times, is the only tri-national museum in Europe. In addition to the exhibition on the Three Countries in German and French, it also presents the central permanent exhibition on the present and past of the Three Borders region in the Upper Rhine. It also hosts several temporary exhibitions each year. Finally, we find a room with an exhibition on the war of 1870, which explains in particular the situation of Alsace when it became German again in 1871, then French in 1918/1919, then German again during the Second World War.
I find that visiting this museum is extremely interesting for trying to understand the very particular situation of this composite region, and it also perfectly echoes the 3 Countries Loop by bike.
Museum of the Three Countries
Basler Straße 143, 79540 Lörrach (two minutes from the market square)
museum open Tuesday to Sunday from 11 AM to 6 PM
Prices: €3 adult / reduced €1 / free under 6 years
Link to the museum website
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What to do in Lörrach? Visit Rötteln Castle
Rötteln Castle is one of the largest ruined castles in Southern Baden. It is located on a rocky spur that overlooks Lörrach and offers visitors an extraordinary view: over Lörrach and the Rhine Valley, towards Basel, and as far as the Alps. It is therefore an essential stop if you are in the area. A small part of the castle is accessible by paying an entrance fee (a part we did not visit), but the majority of the site is accessible for free, which is very convenient. There is even a place to park and secure your bike!
Rötteln Castle
Burg Rötteln, 79541 Lörrach
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Where to have lunch in Lörrach? At Fräulein Burg
This address is the restaurant of Rötteln Castle, which I just told you about. During fine weather, it is very pleasant to have lunch on the terrace of the establishment, which offers a magnificent view of the surroundings.
As for the food, it is quite simple, but it is an opportunity to taste some German specialties. Be careful not to be caught out like us and order an Alsatian “salad” when opting for a balanced dish, because, in reality, there are no vegetables in it! However, the whole menu is completely in German, so if you don’t speak German, it can be slightly problematic (luckily, a lady who spoke French helped us…). It was also an opportunity for me to taste a “small” German beer.
Restaurant Fräulein Burg
Röttelnweiler 47, 79541 Lörrach
Stage 4: Basel (Switzerland)
After Germany, here we are in the 3rd country of the loop, Switzerland. We took a quick bike tour of the city of Basel, about which I will tell you again very soon in a much more complete article, because I have since returned for a weekend in the Swiss city.
We made an essential stop at the Basel Dreiländereck, a key place in History, since it is at the crossroads of the 3 countries on the banks of the Rhine: France, Switzerland, and Germany. From there, you can admire the Three Countries Bridge (symbol of the route) between Weil am Rhein (Germany) and Huningue (France). Also make a stop at the town hall, which surprises with its red facade and polychrome wall paintings, then you can visit the alleys of Basel on foot, especially the “Gerbergässlein” passage known for its street art work. Don’t miss Barfüsserplatz, then Tinguely Fountain, a famous work composed of animated mechanical sculptures, and finally take a tour of Basel Cathedral (Basler Münster). From the terrace located behind the cathedral, you will also have a stunning view of the city roofs and the river.
A few spots to photograph in Basel: the Three Countries Bridge, the banks of the Rhine, the Eaux Vives park, the port of Basel, the “Récup’Art” bars of Klybeck, the Tinguely fountain, Basel Cathedral, the Town Hall, the Gebergässlein street art fresco.
Point of attention for cyclists: some areas of the city are pedestrian-only, especially the alleys.
Stage 5: Arlesheim (Switzerland)
This charming traditional Swiss village is still located in Switzerland, about 10 km from Basel, which I just told you about before, in the canton of Basel-Landschaft.
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Where to stay in Arlesheim? Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
This 4-star hotel installed in an old traditional house welcomes cycle tourists with adapted equipment, and it is the first of this type in northwestern Switzerland. There is a special spot in the parking lot for bikes, including the necessary tools to plug in your electric bike during your stay (which is extremely practical, I must admit). We stayed with Mathilde in a large double room with two extremely comfortable single beds. And the breakfast was also of very good quality, which is always an appreciable plus.
The great tip: for hotel guests, there is a bar on each floor with free drinks available (beer from a Basel brewery, mineral water, Nespresso coffee, and tea), as well as fresh fruit.
Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
Ermitagestrasse 16, 4144 Arlesheim
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Where to have dinner in Arlesheim? Restaurant of the Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
The restaurant of the hotel where we stayed is very well known in the area for its meat-based specialties, which use the best cuts from their butcher shop with the famous “Jenzer Natura” quality label. The chef Dominic Meier offers dishes based on market and seasonal products. It is a place highly appreciated by gourmets in the region and wine lovers.
If you stay at the hotel, I strongly advise you to treat yourself by testing this beautiful gastronomic table to discover regional specialties and also some good local wines!
Restaurant of the Hotel Gasthof zum Ochsen
The great tip: the daily menu at 28 CHF (Monday to Friday for lunch)
Price: 3-course menu 78 CHF / 4-course menu 87 CHF / starter a la carte between 14 and 25 CHF / main dishes a la carte between 35 and 55 CHF
Stage 6: The Sundgau (South Alsace, France)
The “Sundgau” is a territory located in southern Alsace on a seismic fault, distinguished by its beautiful half-timbered farmhouses, multiple ponds, magnificent landscapes, and authentic heritage. The culture of the Alsatian Jura is also very strong in this region.
During your bike ride in the Sundgau, I especially recommend visiting the charming traditional villages of the region. I give you below some ideas of places to discover! Unfortunately, we couldn’t enjoy it too much, as it was from this part of the journey that it rained heavily almost without stopping, so it was a little less conducive to sightseeing.
- Altkirch: It is the capital of the Sundgau; you can discover the Sundgauvien Museum there, but also a walking circuit of Street Art works created on several building facades in the city, not to mention the exhibitions of the CRAC (Rhénan Center for Contemporary Art).
- Illtall: A new municipality born from the merger of Oberdorf, Grentzingen, and Henflingen, which presents an alignment along its main street of beautiful, richly flowered half-timbered houses.
- Hirsingue: This small town of 2700 inhabitants is part of the closed club of 11 Alsatian municipalities that have obtained a 4th flower. It is crossed by the small Felbach stream where ducks are plentiful. These streets, shaded by beautiful linden trees and adorned with beautiful half-timbered houses, are conducive to a small bucolic stroll. It is also there that we stayed during our passage in this territory, and I give you below some great addresses in Hirsingue precisely for sleeping and eating on site.
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Visit Landskron Castle
Perched in the Alsatian Jura, a stone’s throw from the village of Leymen and Switzerland, Landskron Castle dominates the entire valley. It was transformed into a garrison according to the plans of Vauban (1689), burned and bombed in 1817, and finally classified as a Historic Monument in 1923. One can discover a dungeon from the 13th century, towers, and finally the remains of the chapel and the well. Visiting the ruins of this castle offers a pleasant moment of walking in the greenery.
Point of attention for cyclists, the climb to the castle is really steep, and even with the electric assistance of the bikes, Mathilde and I really struggled! So, to make this climb without electric bikes, you really need to be well-trained!
Landskron Castle
Access: After the station, take Rue du Landskron, follow it to the intersection with Rue Annexe Tannwald where you must turn left and head towards Landskron
The great tip: the ruins of the castle are freely and openly accessible for a visit
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Visit the Oltingue Peasant Museum
This peasant museum was created by a priest in the 60s who collected items from the inhabitants with the idea of showing the rural world that was disappearing. The museum is housed in a house dating from the 16th century, which was a former inn and horse relay. Do not hesitate to make a small stop for a dive into the rural authenticity of the region.
Oltingue Peasant Museum
10 Rue Principale, 68480 Oltingue
Open Sunday from 2 PM to 5 PM from March 1 to November 15, and Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 3 PM to 6 PM from June 15 to September 30
Price: €2.50 admission
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Where to have lunch in Leymen? La couronne d’or
This restaurant is located in Leymen, so it’s the ideal place to have lunch after visiting Landskron Castle, for example. It has a very pleasant terrace for the summer (which was unfortunately closed at the time of our visit). The place offers fresh and seasonal products, but it lacked a bit of local specialties for my taste.
Restaurant la couronne d’or
10 rue principale, 68220 Leymen
Price: starters between €4 and €16 / main dishes between €16 and €34
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Where to stay in Hirsingue? Eichestuba B&B
This charming B&B, which was recently completely renovated, is located in the small village of Hirsingue. For the record, Eichestuba means “the oak room” in Alsatian. We were welcomed very warmly by Marie-Ange and Didier Duchene who welcomed us to their home. For my part, I stayed in the Vignoble room.
The little extra: if you are a wine lover like me, Didier also sells local wines if you want to discover the vineyard of this region, but also some products from local artisans!
Eichestuba B&B
28 rue Raoul Lang, 68560 Hirsingue
Prices: €52 for one person including breakfast / €60 for 2 people including breakfast
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Where to have dinner in Hirsingue? Auberge des 3 Vallées
This small family inn run by Annick and Pieter Harens is nestled in the village of Hirsingue, a 5-minute walk from the B&B I just told you about, which makes it the ideal place to eat if you are staying there. The restaurant offers rich and varied local cuisine, and I particularly advise you to taste the Sundgau specialty that I loved, the famous fried carp (good tip given at the B&B where we stayed, take the “filet” of fried carp to avoid the bones / €20.30). A must-try in the region! For dessert, I also recommend the iced Kougelhopf with Alsatian kirsch (€7.90).
Auberge des 3 Vallées
16 rue d’Altkirch 68560 Hirsingue
Days off: Monday evening and Wednesday
Price: terroir menu at €32.30 / market menu at €37.80
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Thanks to the Alsace Tourist Office, to Alsace à Vélo, to the Mulhouse Tourist Office, to the Bad Bellingen Tourist Office, to the Pays de Saint-Louis Tourist Office, to the Sundgau Tourist Office, and to the aiRPur agency for this beautiful welcome. And thanks also to my wonderful travel companion, my Mathilde for her good humor, her patience, and for watching over me during the delicate moments (do not hesitate to go take a look at her article on this itinerary)!
I hope that with all this I will have made you want to discover or rediscover Alsace and the 3 Countries Loop, and if you, too, have your tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan and Stay Tuned for Life Photos not free of rights, photographer's authorization mandatory before any use
