Home EuropeDiscovering Pomerania and Gdańsk in Poland

Discovering Pomerania and Gdańsk in Poland

by Melle Bon Plan
Published: Updated:

In September 2022, we set off for Poland for the first time with my favorite photographer. It was a rather special trip, especially for my partner, since it was his first visit to the country of his maternal grandparents. Unfortunately, he doesn’t speak the language, but he was happy to be able to visit the land of his ancestors. The history of this country is very old, dating back to 999, the year that saw the beginnings of Christianity on the Baltic Sea, and its emblem is the eagle.

We specifically visited the Pomorskie region (or Pomerania in English), which overlooks the Baltic Sea in the north of the country, and the city of Gdańsk, with its millenary history. In this region, temperatures can reach up to 34/35°C in summer, and it was around 20°C when we went, at the beginning of September. This region of Poland is also home to the Kashubian people (Christians) who have been settled here since the 14th century and who possess a specific local language as well as a number of unique customs. Pomerania is also a very green region, as 33% of the territory is covered by forests, and it also houses 2 national parks.

Colorful facades of Gdańsk with a sailboat on the Motława River.
Colorful facades of Old Town houses in Gdańsk seen from a grassy path.
Woman walking barefoot on the beach in Pomerania, Baltic Sea, Poland.

Practical Info for traveling to Poland

How to get to Gdańsk from Paris?

Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from Paris to reach this region. You have to take a first flight between Paris and Warsaw (a little over 2 hours of flight) and then take another flight between Warsaw and Gdańsk. For our part, we traveled with the Polish national airline LOT Polish Airlines.

Paris – Gdańsk flight journey

Budget: about €300 per person for round-trip flights in economy class

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Practical information and formalities for traveling to Poland

  • No time difference.
  • The currency is not the euro but the zloty (not very convenient, so even if you stay in Europe, you need to change money before your departure or once you arrive).
  • It is possible to travel to Poland with a French ID card or a passport. If you have an ID card like mine issued between January 1, 2004, and December 31, 2013, which is past the expiration date indicated on the card but benefits from a 5-year validity extension, you can download a document for peace of mind so you won’t be bothered (personally, I had no issues and didn’t need to show this document, but still…).
  • Overall, we found that Poles don’t all speak English very well (even in tourist areas), so you will need a little patience to make yourself understood, but generally, you always manage to get by in the end.

Discovering the city of Gdańsk

The beautiful city of Gdańsk is, so to speak, the “capital” of the Pomerania region. It is not located by the sea as one might think, but it is crossed by a river to which it owes its past prosperity and splendor: the Motława. Indeed, Gdańsk is above all a unique and ancient port city (a first historic port already existed in the 10th century) with a rich and tumultuous history. At the city’s peak, 18 different markets kept the heart of the city alive, and 2,000 tons of crayfish, for example, were sold outside its gates. Indeed, in the 16th and 17th centuries, Gdańsk was the largest port on the Baltic and an extremely prosperous city. Some street names, squares, etc., still tell of this past grandeur today.

During the city’s golden age, many Flemish people came to trade in this port city, and they imported their architectural style and brought artists with them. This is why you will see many houses with Flemish-style decorative gables. It was following the war with Sweden at the end of the 17th century that the city experienced a certain decline. In the 19th century, it was a city dedicated to the naval industry with the construction of the Imperial Shipyards. Subsequently, it suffered significant destruction at the end of the Second World War and was largely rebuilt postwar. It was also after the war that Gdańsk became a Polish city in its own right.

Gdańsk is also known for its gargoyles, its carillons (there is, by the way, a Carillon festival in August), its red bricks, its amber, its ironwork, cabinetmaking, and gilding (especially during the 16th and 17th centuries).

Wooden promenade along the Motława River, view of the colorful houses of Gdańsk.
High Gate of Gdańsk with a red roof and cobblestone street.

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Exploring Gdańsk with a Civitatis Free tour

If you’re looking for the best way to discover the pearl of the Baltic without hurting your wallet, there’s nothing like booking a “Free tour” via the Civitatis platform. The concept of this excursion site is effective: booking the tour is 100% free, and you evaluate the service at the very end by giving a tip to the guide according to your own appreciation. For a little over two hours, an English-speaking guide will immerse you in the millenary history of this fascinating port city.

Free tour in Gdańsk by Civitatis

Duration: 2h30

Link to book your free tour

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What to do, what to visit in Gdańsk?

Gdańsk is a city with a rich history, and there are many places to visit. I especially recommend visiting the elegant Long Market square with its famous Neptune Fountain (made by a Dutchman in the 17th century), surrounded by old merchants’ houses with their perfectly restored facades. This former royal path, which is now a pedestrian area, led to the town hall of the time, which dates from the 14th and 15th centuries. You will notice that most houses are narrow but deep, because at the time, taxes were paid according to the number of windows one had…

Here are also a few places/monuments not to be missed: the Street of lovers (Mariacka Street), very well known for its terraces; the facade of the Arsenal from 1605, one of the largest in Poland; the beautiful facade of the Golden House; the city also abounds with many gates, there were 40 at the time (the Green Gate with small bricks from the Netherlands where the first amber collections were presented, the milk gate, the butter gate, the cow gate…) and some are still visible today.

Regarding museums, you won’t be left out either. I mention a few museums that I visited below, but there are many others! I also recommend visiting the Maritime Museum, which includes the symbol of the city: a medieval wooden crane (it, too, was largely rebuilt), which is included in the museum.

Neptune Fountain and Town Hall in Gdańsk, Poland.

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Visit the Basilica of Gdańsk

The St. Mary’s Basilica of Gdańsk is the largest church in Poland and one of the largest made of brick in Europe. It took 159 years to build, and it has many private chapels. The church was Catholic, then Protestant until 1945, then Catholic again today.

Inside the church, you can discover many works of art, but also epitaphs, a magnificent 17th-century organ case, an astronomical clock dating from 1470/1480 (a must-see!), the gilded copper stars present under the vaults of the Basilica (Poland is the largest producer of copper in Europe), and a High Altar made in 7 years with gold leaves, which in 1517 had the value of 20 houses with gables!

St. Mary’s Basilica of Gdańsk

Podkramarska 5, 80-834 Gdańsk, Poland

Pro tip: free and open access

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Visit the Cathedral of Gdańsk

Unlike French tradition, this cathedral is not located in the city center (it is about 10km from the center, in the Oliwa district) and it is even smaller than the St. Mary’s Basilica I mentioned above. It is a 14th-century Cistercian church, but much of its furniture and decoration is Baroque. Next to the Cathedral, there is a lovely park, which is very pleasant for a stroll, for example.

Oliwski Park Gdańsk: sunny palace and flower gardens.

Gdańsk-Oliwa Cathedral

Cystersów 17, 80-300 Gdańsk, Poland

Pro tip: there are free 20-minute organ concerts on Sunday afternoons

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Visiting the Artus Court Museum

The Artus Court, formerly known as “Junkerhof”, refers to both a square and a building that marks its entrance. The latter, located opposite the famous Neptune Fountain, is nicknamed the Historical Museum of Gdańsk. You can find works of art or replicas that refer to the legends and myths of Antiquity and the Middle Ages.

It is a place to discover, because in addition to the works exhibited in this museum, visiting it allows you to explore the interior of a house from the city’s Golden Age. The Vestibule Hall is particularly impressive. You can also discover the largest ceramic stove in Europe, which is 10.64 meters high and adorned with 530 richly decorated tiles.

Interior of the Artus Court in Gdańsk with two visitors admiring the frescoes and woodwork.

Artus Court

Długi Targ 43-44, 80-831 Gdańsk, Poland

Link to the museum’s website

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Visiting the Amber Museum

This Amber Museum has been housed in an old mill since the fall of 2021 (before it was housed in a medieval building that later became a prison). I also recommend visiting the museum’s old building, which is also worth a look. This Amber Museum (like most Polish museums in the region) offers explanations only in Polish and English.

Also called gold of the north or Baltic gold, amber is actually a resin that can contain plants and insects, trapped in this material for millions of years. Romans already came to this region in ancient times to look for amber, because it was an extremely lucrative trade. There was a Baltic amber road that connected to the city of Rome.

The oldest amber in the world comes from the Baltic and is some 40 million years old! As a result, amber is a precious material since it can preserve ancient flora and fauna that are now extinct. Moreover, it can have more than 200 different colors/shades. In the world, there are different resins that exist, but be careful, it is not always amber. In the museum, you can discover the old method used to “fish” for amber in the Baltic Sea.

Modern interior of the Amber Museum in Gdańsk with visitors and glass elevator.

Museum of Amber

Wielki Młyn, Wielkie Młyny 16, 80-849 Gdańsk

Link to the museum’s website

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Visiting the National Museum of Gdańsk

This national museum located in the old suburb district is housed in a former Franciscan convent. It first opened its doors in 1870, when it presented a private collection. It became a national museum after the Second World War and today it houses the largest collection of Flemish art in Poland.

You can find many objects from the workshops of Gdańsk. Pewter objects, objects from Polish ceramic workshops but also from other countries. If you visit this museum, you must see the masterpiece of the museum, a triptych dating from 1473: The Last Judgment” by Hans Memling. Moreover, I learned on the occasion of this visit that this painting had been taken by Napoleon in the 19th century and even exhibited at the Louvre for a while, before returning to Poland, via Germany.

Polyptych of the Last Judgment at the National Museum of Gdańsk.

The Gdańsk National Museum

Toruńska 1, 80-822 Gdańsk

Link to the museum’s website

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Visiting the European Solidarity Centre

This venue, inaugurated in 2014, houses a comprehensive cultural center with a large media library, conference rooms, and a museum. We went there to visit the museum and its permanent exhibition “Path to Freedom“. This exhibition tells the story of the years 1956 to 1989, with the birth of Solidarnosc in August 1980 in the heart of the former Gdańsk Shipyards. This important political and social movement, born in the wake of 18 days of strikes (from August 14 to 31, 1980), revived the hope of Polish society and also became the symbol of the end of the communist regime in Europe. We follow the history of Poles, and mainly workers, who fought to free themselves from the system of the time and who inspired many other countries. I must admit that I did not know this episode of Polish history very well and I really found this exhibition fascinating! Be careful, however, the exhibition is only in Polish with an English translation. However, you will find a small document at the reception in French explaining each room.

You can also discover in the exhibition the 21 agreements made at the end of the strike and which were written on wooden plaques. These were signed with the PRL (Polish People’s Republic) on August 31, 1980, by the members of the Inter-Enterprise Strike Committee. In front of the building, there is also the monument to the shipyard workers killed during the strikes of December 1970.

Modern rust-colored building in Gdańsk, Poland, with the word STOCZNIA visible.
Jerzy Janiszewski creating the Solidarność logo in his studio, March 1981.

My advice: upon leaving your visit to the European Solidarity Centre, do not hesitate to stop at the building opposite, the CHSCT room, which was the place where the first meeting of the Inter-Enterprise Strike Committee (MKS) was held and where the “August Agreements” of 1980 were signed, which gave birth to the independent union Solidarnosc; today the room houses a small free exhibition and a shop where you can buy Solidarnosc goodies.

European Solidarity Centre

PIace Solidarności 1, 80-863 Gdańsk, Poland

open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (and only until 5 pm between October and April)

Rates: 30 PLN / reduced 25 PLN

Link to the website

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Discovering the shipyard district

After your visit to the Solidarity center, I recommend you go for a walk in the nearby shipyard district. This place seems to be the alternative district of the city, with quite a lot of street-art and very nice food-courts (I tell you about one of them below in the “good addresses” section of the city).

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Taking a night walk in Gdańsk

As you can see in the photos below, the city of Gdańsk really deserves to be discovered at night, because the illuminations of its buildings and its quays are truly magnificent!

Quays of Gdańsk illuminated at night with boats and reflections on the water.

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My good addresses in Gdańsk

As usual, you will find below my selection of good addresses in Gdańsk (several restaurants and a hotel) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the opportunity to discover local products and some Polish specialties to taste if you come to Poland. As for beer, we didn’t have much opportunity to discover them but I was told that there were 5 local breweries in the city. As for gastronomic specialties, the region is mainly known for its fish-based dishes: hake, salmon, herring.

Below, I add a few addresses that we unfortunately did not have time to test, but which were highly recommended to us by our Polish guide.

  • Where to eat good cakes in Gdańsk? Cukiernia Sowa
  • Bar Mleczny, a very cheap restaurant with typical dishes

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Where to have a gastronomic dinner and a drink in Gdańsk? At the Mercato restaurant of the Hilton hotel

This restaurant is located in the Hilton Hotel, in the heart of the City Center district of Gdańsk. It pays tribute to the city’s markets and therefore specializes in fish dishes. The chef prepares high-level cuisine that changes with the seasons. We were particularly won over by the starters, which were delicious. As for wines, the establishment offers a nice selection of Polish wines; unfortunately, very few are available by the glass, but only by the bottle, in case you want to taste local production.

Must-try: as a starter, the Crayfish soup, our personal favorite of this meal (45 zl) or the scallops (89 zl); as a main course, the salmon with fava beans, green peas, asparagus, razor clams, and Jerusalem artichokes (99 zl) or the Pomeranian lamb (be aware that this is a fairly fatty meat and you have to like it) with garlic, fava beans, green peas, and beets (119 zl); for dessert, the Amber of Gdansk (39 zl).

Hilton Gdańsk restaurant interior with booth, set tables, and four historical drawings.

My advice: before or after your meal, I recommend going for a drink at the hotel bar on the top floor, to enjoy the rooftop which offers a magnificent view of the Motława River and its surroundings.

Mercato restaurant

Targ Rybny 1, 80-838 Gdańsk

Link to the restaurant website

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Where to have lunch on a terrace with a view of the Motława? Philharmonia Restaurant

The Filharmonia restaurant, located in a historical 19th-century building in Gdańsk, offers a very beautiful view of the Motława River. During the summer season, you can also enjoy the sun on one of the establishment’s terraces, by the canal. Regarding the food, the restaurant offers a menu based solely on fresh, seasonal products.

Must-try: herring tartare (29 PLN); Kashubian mustard soup with egg, sausage, and smoked bacon (24 PLN); fried halibut fillet with barley and Brussels sprouts (59 PLN); we also tried a Polish beer, a Piwo Bytow Pils (18 PLN).

Filharmonia restaurant

Ołowianka 1, 80-751 Gdańsk, Poland

Link to the restaurant website

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Where to eat street food in Gdańsk? 100cznia

This very cool alternative place is located near the shipyards. It’s a great spot to go for a bite to eat or a drink after visiting the Solidarity Museum, for example (which I mentioned earlier in the article). It’s also an arty place with quite a bit of street art (there isn’t much in the city center of Gdańsk, and it seems rather concentrated in this neighborhood based on what I saw), food trucks, bars, and places to sit outside and enjoy the vibe. In any case, we really fell in love with this very nice spot, which is ideal for the nice season (though I’m not sure if it’s open the rest of the year). As for food, we tried the Soul Food Truck and grabbed a Polish beer at one of the place’s bars.

Gdańsk courtyard with graffiti, outdoor furniture, and harbor cranes in the background.
Woman jumping in front of colorful street art walls in Gdańsk, Poland.
Food trucks and outdoor installations in an industrial area in Gdańsk.

100Cznia

100cznia, Popiełuszki 5, 80-863 Gdańsk, Poland

Link to the venue’s website

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Where to stay in Gdańsk? At the Radisson Hotel & Suites Gdansk

This 7-story hotel is ideally located on Granary Island not far from the city center, and some of its rooms overlook the canal and a reconstruction of a period galleon, including the one we had (No. 4137 for those interested). The view was quite grand, I must say, and we loved our room! It was quite large, very functional, and the bedding was truly high quality. I must also add that I found the hotel’s soundproofing particularly effective, and we heard absolutely no noise or activity from the quays.

As for breakfast, it is very varied with a very large buffet and there is something for everyone (even a corner with vegan products), marinated fish, savory and sweet options…

Woman reading in a Radisson hotel room in Gdańsk.
Modern and traditional hotel facades in Gdańsk, including the Radisson.

Radisson Hotel & Suites Gdansk

Chmielna 10/25, 80-748 Gdańsk

Room rates: from €78 per night for a standard room

Link to the hotel website


See / do in Pomerania

As usual, in this section, you will find ideas of things to see and do (tested and approved during our stay) if you come to Pomerania. To discover this territory, I recommend having a vehicle, as it will be the simplest way for you to get from one place to another. I mentioned the city of Gdańsk a little higher up, and below I also talk about 2 other cities that border Gdańsk: Sopot and Gdynia. I also suggest an exploration of the Kashubia region, rich in lakes and hills, which is located between the Baltic Sea and the Tuchola Forest.

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Visit Sopot, a Baltic seaside resort

Sopot is considered the Polish Deauville, according to what we were told. This city was created by a doctor from the Napoleonic army, an Alsatian Dr. Haffner, and the seaside resort opened its doors in 1823. The city became very popular at the end of the 19th century, and people came for the reputation of the medical treatments offered in Sopot. After 1920, the city also developed with the opening of gambling casinos. If you stroll through the city, you can still see very pretty 19th-century houses with verandas today.

During your visit to the city, you absolutely must see the imposing facade of the Grand Hotel, which is one of the chicest hotels in Poland and has hosted numerous celebrities, from Marlene Dietrich to Charles Aznavour, and even Fidel Castro. It was built in the 1920s, and its construction cost a cool 20 million Gdańsk florins at the time.

Lively pedestrian street in Sopot, Poland, with a church spire in the background.
Facade of the Grand Hotel Sopot with its flowered balconies and dome.

Sopot Tourist Office

Link to the website

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Stroll on the wooden pier in Sopot

The city is also famous for its wooden pier, which is the longest in Europe (512 meters) and allows you to walk out into the waters of the Bay of Gdańsk. It was built at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. It is the city’s main attraction, and it is very pleasant to take a walk there. The Baltic Sea is less salty than the Mediterranean Sea, so there is no tide. Be careful, however, the pier is not free in summer and until the end of September (3.83 PLN) and is free in winter.

Joyful woman on the wooden pier in Sopot, Pomerania, Poland.
Woman and seagulls on the Sopot pier, Poland, with a view of the Baltic Sea.
Sopot beach in Poland with waves and a view of a historical building.

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A gourmet address in Sopot? Cukiernia

Our guide took us to this bakery (that’s what Cukiernia means, but this one doesn’t have a specific name, or at least I couldn’t find it, but I’ll give you the address below…) because, according to him, it was the best place in town to try the famous traditional Polish filled doughnuts. And I must say, apart from the fact that it’s obviously very sweet, we really enjoyed them!

Cukiernia

Bohaterów Monte Cassino 16, 81-759 Sopot, Poland

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Where to eat in Sopot? Tawerna Rybaki

This address, which is located right next to the bike path that runs along the sea, is also a small hotel that offers 5 rooms with a view of the sea. For our part, we didn’t test this place as an accommodation, but we stopped there to eat. The establishment’s restaurant specializes in seafood and serves dishes made from fish caught in the Gulf. The establishment offers a small outdoor terrace and several dining rooms over 2 floors.

Must-try: beet soup (cold summer soup in Poland / 20 zt); little homemade spreads (which it is possible to buy as well); obviously the fish and seafood specialties, such as the grilled octopus tentacle (78 zt); we tasted a very good Polish beer there, the Baltycki Dziad pils (15 zt for a half-pint).

Tawerna Rybaki

Aleja Wojska Polskiego 26, 81-769 Sopot, Poland

Link to the establishment’s website

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Visit Gdynia

Gdynia is a very important port city, with its harbor having been built and opened in 1923. The goal of this port at the time was to provide Poland with a port on the Baltic Sea, back when the city of Gdańsk was still independent. Subsequently, the city was taken by the Germans during the Second World War and then bombed at its end. After the war, the city was about 60% destroyed. Today, you can see modernist architecture dating back to the reconstruction, recognizable by its rounded balconies. The city of Gdynia also hosts the Polish Film Festival today, which takes place every year in May or October. I also recommend taking a walk on the Orlowo wooden pier to enjoy the beaches and the sea.

Gdynia beach and pier in Pomerania, Poland, seen from the greenery.

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Visit the Emigration Museum of Gdynia

This museum, opened in 2015 in Gdynia, covers the history of the many Polish people who have emigrated over the past several hundred years to all corners of the world, motivated by economic reasons and the desire for a new life. The museum’s modern and engaging museography makes it a fascinating place to understand and become aware of the scale of the Polish diaspora around the world.

The museum is located in a former Marine building (dating back to 1933) in the heart of the Gdynia port, from which many Poles departed; this building was often the last image they had of their motherland. It is truly a fascinating visit. Be aware, however, that as is often the case in Poland, the museum’s explanations are only in Polish and English.

Emigration Museum of Gdynia terrace overlooking the port and harbor master's office.

Museum of Emigration

Polska 1, 81-339 Gdynia, Poland

Link to the museum’s website

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Where to have a gourmet dinner in Gdynia? At the White Rabbit restaurant

This gourmet restaurant is housed in the Quadrille Hotel, which is a Relais & Châteaux establishment. This luxury address, which particularly highlights contemporary art and artists, is located in the Orlowo district of Gdynia. We spent a wonderful evening at the hotel’s restaurant, which offers high-end gastronomy and is more refined than the majority of restaurants we visited in Poland. We left this dinner completely full, because unlike gourmet meals in France which remain very light, in Poland, even in a gourmet restaurant, the portions are more than substantial.

Yellow facade of the Hotel Quadrille in Gdynia, Pomerania, Poland, with crenelated towers.
Bright interior restaurant in Gdynia with set tables and magenta lights.

White Rabbit restaurant

ul. Folwarczna 2, 81-547 Gdynia, Poland

Link to the hotel’s website

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Visit Malbork Castle

Located in the region called “The Lowland”, this complex is the largest medieval fortress in Europe and a very significant achievement in the history of military architecture. In reality, there are even three different castles inside the fortress. It was founded by the Teutonic Knights (a hospital order of German crusaders like the Templars who were extremely rich) in the 13th century. The fortress was part of their fortifications present in Prussia. Since 1961, the castle has been managed by the Polish State through the Malbork Castle Museum and is open for visits. You can also walk around the fortress in the moats (allow about 1 hour), which is free as you do not need to pay the museum entrance fee.

This architectural ensemble was terribly damaged during the Second World War but has been extensively rebuilt and renovated since. During this visit, I noticed that the Poles really do not have the same policy as the French regarding the renovation of historical monuments and they rebuild more spontaneously than we do in France. Without being judgmental, I just reflected on this during this trip to Poland.

Malbork Castle, red brick medieval fortress under the blue sky.

The Malbork Castle Museum

Starościńska 1, 82-200 Malbork, Poland

Link to the Castle website

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Where to eat in Malbork? U Flisaka Tavern

This very friendly restaurant/tavern is located just across from the castle, on the other side of the river. It’s the ideal place to sit down and grab a bite or have a drink before or after your visit to the castle. On the evening of our visit, there was even a group of Polish folk singers, and we got a little improvised live concert as a bonus. For sunny days, the address also has a beautiful terrace with a view of the castle and the Nogat River.

We tasted: the pierogi (a Polish specialty), which are a type of very hearty dumpling, and the restaurant offers several kinds (duck, spinach and feta, mushroom…).

Rustic interior of the U Flisaka tavern in Malbork with customers and menus.

U Flisaka Tavern

Wałowa, 82-200 Malbork

Price: pierogi dish between 28 zt and 32 zt / soup between 15 zt and 19 zt

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Visit Wdzydze Kiszewskie

If you go to Wdzydze Kiszewskie to visit the ethnographic park, I also advise you to go to the city center to climb to the top of the panoramic tower/observatory. There is a fee, but at the top, you have a really great view of the surroundings and the lake. It is also an opportunity to realize that this region is truly very rich in lakes and forests.

Sailboats and pedal boats on Lake Wdzydze, Pomerania region, Poland.

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Visit the Kashubian Ethnographic Park Museum

This museum is the oldest ethnographic park in Poland. It was created in 1906 next to Lake Golun by a teaching couple, Teodora and Izydor Gulgowski, and covers an area of 22 hectares. A visit to this ethnographic park is a lovely walk through the rural Poland of the 19th century. There are about 50 typical buildings of the rural Kashubian countryside, the Tuchola Forest, and Kociewie, dating between the 17th and 20th centuries.

You can discover examples of ancient regional architecture that have almost disappeared, such as churches, schools, manors, farms, workshops… There is also a shop in the park that sells local handicrafts, and it’s a good place to bring back some local souvenirs; unfortunately, it was closed on Monday when we visited the museum.

Traditional wooden house at the Kashubian Ethnographic Park, Poland.
Red wooden window with artificial flowers at the Kashubian Ethnographic Park.

Museum Kaszubski Park Etnograficzny

Teodory i Izydora Gulgowskich 68, 83-406 Wdzydze, Poland

Rates: adult 17 PLN / children and seniors 12 PLN

Pro tip: every Monday, museum entry is free, but there are fewer houses open, though it is still very interesting (we went on a Monday)

Link to the museum’s website

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Visit Leba

Leba is a fishing town with an ideal geographical location between the Slowinski National Park (which I talk about just after), the pine forest, the meanders of the Leba River, and the Sarbsko and Lebsko lakes. You can see many fishing boats on the edge of the canal, and the town attracts many tourists in the summer because the region is also renowned for its microclimate, which is good for health. You can also find many rooms in private homes if you want to try this type of homestay accommodation.

Leba Tourist Office

Link to the website to learn more

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Visit Slowinski National Park

This site and its “shifting dunes” are a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is located about 100km from Gdańsk and spans 18,000 hectares. To get there, you must park your car in the site’s parking lot, then take a small electric bus (for a fee). You can also, of course, get there on foot, but be aware that it takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes of walking to get to the dune site. I really recommend taking the small electric bus because it’s 8km each way, and frankly, once there, the walk in the dunes barefoot (which is the most pleasant part) is quite tiring, and I was very glad not to have had to walk the 8km back!

The unique character of this site lies in its very fine white sand, which is constantly shifting to the rhythm of the wind. The landscapes are magnificent and change with the weather and the seasons, so you will never see the same place if you return several times. It is a paradise for nature lovers, and during this walk, you can also head down to the Baltic Sea to dip your feet in the water or go for a swim, depending on the temperature.

Shifting dunes of Słowiński National Park with a woman walking barefoot.

Słowiński National Park

Bohaterów Warszawy 1A, 76-214 Smołdzino, Poland

Open all year round

Rates without the small electric bus: 14.10 PLN full price / 10.50 PLN reduced price / 7 PLN for children

Rates with the small electric bus: 17.40 PLN full price / 13 PLN reduced price / 8.60 PLN for children

Link to the National Park website


My favorite spots in Pomerania (accommodation and gastronomy)

As usual, you will find below my selection of top spots in Pomerania (one accommodation and several restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some Polish specialties to try if you come to the region. I also mentioned some addresses in the previous paragraph, in connection with places to visit, as I thought it might be more practical for planning a trip or your itinerary in Poland.

Polish specialties and local products to discover: apple juice and blackcurrant juice; beer; vodka; Poland produces a lot of apples; Poles are very fond of flavored butter or buttermilk.

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Lunch at the Bioli trus restaurant, at the Forest Manor

This restaurant is located in a hotel/manor (there are many in the Kashubia region), at Leśny Dwór, on the edge of Lake Węgorzyno in Sulęczyno. I found the restaurant dining room very lovely. As for the food, you will find traditional Polish dishes with a twist, such as breaded pork chops with pineapple and candied beet. The cuisine was generally quite refined and really original, I think.

Leśny Dwór Suleczyno Pomerania, renovated building with a paved path and fountain.

Bioli trus restaurant

Lesny Dwor Suleczyno

Stefana Żeromskiego 15, 83-320 Sulęczyno, Poland

Price: soups between 25 PLN and 29 PLN / main courses between 34 PLN and 62 PLN / desserts between 24 PLN and 27 PLN

Link to the establishment’s website

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Poraj Palace Hotel

This former 19th-century country palace is now a rustic but charming hotel where you can stop over and also dine. The hotel is located about 1.5 hours’ drive from Gdańsk. Unfortunately, we were in a room facing the road, and I can tell you that starting at 5:30 AM, there is quite a lot of traffic. Which I find a bit of a shame because if you come here to rest in the countryside, it is not to be next to a busy road, but I know I am very sensitive to this kind of noise disturbance. If you are like me, I recommend you specifically ask for a room that faces the back of the building.

For the rest, the place has a lot of charm and the park surrounding the building also looked magnificent, but we arrived at the end of the day and left early the next morning, so we didn’t have much time to enjoy it. Finally, the staff is very kind and particularly helpful.

Facade of the Poraj Palace in Pomerania with street lamp and greenery.

We also dined there during our stop. On the menu: sour rye soup (29 PLN) with flour served in bread (a traditional Polish soup); hazelnut soup (typical of the region this time – 23 PLN); the favorite photographer had tongue as a main course, I didn’t dare. As for breakfast, it looked quite typical and Polish, for as much as I know on the subject.

Pałac Poraj

Poraj 5, 84-352 Poraj, Poland

Link to the hotel’s website


This restaurant located on Rue Quincampoix in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris is run by Chef Piotr Korzeń, who brilliantly revisits Polish cuisine. After 5 years working with Thierry Marx and then a year at the helm of the La Machine à Coudes restaurant in Boulogne-Billancourt, he opened his first restaurant, Matka, in May 2024. Among his best-sellers: borscht, pierogi (those famous Polish dumplings), stuffed cabbage, and other seasonal creations.

Warm restaurant interior with exposed beams and stone wall, tables set.

Matka

78 rue Quincampoix 75003 Paris

Price: 5-course chef’s tasting menu at €69 (available every evening + Saturday & Sunday lunch, served for the whole table) / a la carte starters between €11 and €14 / main courses between €23 and €30 / desserts between €11 and €14

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Thanks to the Polish Tourism Organization in France, Pomorskie Travel, and Pomorskie Prestige for this wonderful welcome in Poland. And also thanks to our guide Andrew from Omnibus Tourist for all his explanations.

Medieval crane of Gdańsk, historical facades, and Motława river under a cloudy sky.

I hope that with all this I have made you want to visit Pomerania and Poland, and if you too have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, please don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez
Photos are not royalty-free; photographer's permission required before any use

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