In this article, I am sharing a new itinerary in the Eure department in Normandy to help you discover a different side of this region. We’ll be winding along rivers and deep into Norman forests for a gentle break. I truly love this region because it is so easily accessible from Paris by car (remember our road trip in 2018). The Eure, which offers a concentrate of the Norman countryside, is actually very close to the capital, just an hour’s drive away! It’s the perfect opportunity for a green getaway in Normandy, in the heart of a palette of greens and blues, between the meanders of the Seine and the forest.
In this article, I invite you to discover several parts of the department, starting with a stopover in Lyons-la-Forêt, followed by a trip along the loops of the Seine in the north of the department to explore the Norman Seine Valley, and finishing with a little detour through the south of the Eure in a slightly lesser-known area. For convenience, and to help you recreate our itinerary (or even prepare your own), I’ve provided a small map below with the various locations and sites we tested during this Norman stay.
I had already discovered the charming village of Lyons-la-Forêt (ranked among the most beautiful villages in France!) back in 2014 during a bucolic and relaxing weekend (feel free to take a look at my article from back then). The village was spared from war damage, so it retains its ancient half-timbered houses, very characteristic of the region, and it exudes a picturesque character and a true village life!
The small Norman town (only 750 inhabitants) is nestled in the heart of the Andelle Valley and the Lyons Forest, the largest beech forest in France with its 10,700 hectares. Lovers of hiking and greenery will be well catered for. But the surroundings are also rich in heritage, as you will see below. Finally, it takes only 1 hour and 30 minutes to get to Lyons-la-Forêt from Paris, so you have no excuses not to go during a little Norman getaway…
Taking a stroll through the village, fans of antiques will find several “country chic” antique and decor shops. It’s also the perfect opportunity to admire the magnificent 15th-century Market Hall (restored in the 18th century thanks to the Duke of Penthièvre, the last lord of Lyons) which stands proudly in the center of the village on Place Benserade and hosts a market three times a week (Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday). I also recommend visiting the Three Mills Square (Square des Trois Moulins), crossed by the river Lieure and located near old mills (as the name suggests). These ancient royal mills have been providing electricity to the village since the end of the 19th century. There are also remnants of the old medieval fortress in the center of the village, hidden among private gardens, which was once a royal residence and was finally destroyed at the end of the Hundred Years’ War.
My little gourmet recommendation: you absolutely must taste the Lyons flaky baguette with semi-salted butter, which is made every weekend at the Aux Délices de Lyons bakery (on Place Benserade). It is to die for!
Good to know: all shops are open on Sundays in Lyons-la-Forêt!
My tip: don’t hesitate to go to the Tourist Office to get maps of the marked hiking trails in the surrounding area.
The hot tip: parking is free in Lyons-la-Forêt.
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Enjoying Events Related to the Flaubert Bicentenary in Lyons-la-Forêt
As I mentioned in another article, this year marks the bicentenary of the birth of Flaubert. In this context, Lyons-la-Forêt, which is closely linked to Madame Bovary, Flaubert‘s iconic work, is hosting several events this year related to this celebration. Firstly, a photographic circuit entitled “Madame Bovary, Secrets of Filming” (free and open to all / until October 31, 2021), but also guided tours themed “Lyons goes to the movies,” a treasure hunt, a concert-reading, and even open-air cinema.
There have indeed been 3 versions of Madame Bovary filmed in the village, which proves its cinematic history: Renoir‘s in 1933, Chabrol‘s in 1990, and Anne Fontaine‘s “Gemma Bovery” in 2013.
The hot tip: a short film about the filming of Chabrol‘s movie is available to watch for free at the town hall.
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Where to picnic near Lyons-la-Forêt? The Abbaye de Mortemer
The Abbaye de Mortemer (whose name comes from the Latin “mortum mare,” meaning “dead sea”) is a former Cistercian and royal abbey located in the middle of the Lyons Forest, in the Fouillebroc valley. It was actually the largest in Normandy in the 12th century. It was founded in 1134 at the request of Henry I Beauclerc, son of William the Conqueror. The abbey reached its peak in the 15th century, with a large community of monks (nearly 200), and subsequently experienced a decline in the 16th century. Around 1790, only 4 monks remained at Mortemer, and the French Revolution brought an end to monastic life. The abbey was then sold to a farmer. Today, it is managed by an association and has been listed as a Historic Monument since 1926.
Today, you can stroll through its park to discover its 15th-century dovecote, its ponds, and the romantic ruins of the 12th-century church. It is therefore the perfect place for a little countryside picnic (these are fully authorized in the park, simply pay the entry fee) during nice weather in the abbey’s magnificent park. Moreover, the abbey is very easily accessible from Lyons-la-Forêt by car, bike, or even on foot (it is only 3 km from the village).
The hot tip:Le Petit Lyons (a restaurant in Lyons-la-Forêt / 1 rue Froide) offers a very lovely picnic basket that we tested (price €15 per person, drinks included) with local products, a tablecloth, and biodegradable cutlery.
Rates: €6 per adult / €4 per child aged 6 to 16 / free under 6
Night of the Ghosts, late August/early September (mysterious atmosphere guaranteed)
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To visit near Lyons-la-Forêt: the Château de Vascœuil
This place, located on the edge of the Lyons Forest, contains an Art and History Center, the Jules Michelet Museum (a historian), temporary exhibitions, La Cascade tea room (for a break by the water), but also very beautiful gardens and a sculpture park. Let’s just say you have plenty to keep you busy if you come to visit!
Once a military stronghold, this noble house later became a rural pleasure residence, then a writer’s house with the settlement of Jules Michelet and his family in the 19th century. Regarding the buildings, you will find a beautiful 15th-century castle, a Norman “fortified house” style, with a 12th-century octagonal tower, 17th-century annexes, and a very beautiful 17th-century brick dovecote with its original rotating ladder system that still works and allows access to the nesting holes where birds lived. Part of the gardens has been reconstructed “French-style” based on old plans from 1774, found in the Evreux archives. The other part features English-style gardens.
The castle, open to the public since 1970, is today above all a renowned art center with prestigious contemporary art sculptures (bronzes, marbles, ceramics…) by great artists that dot the 6 hectares of the park: Braque, Buffet, Cocteau, Dali, Vasarely, Fernand Léger, Lurçat… In total, about a hundred artists have been exhibited at the castle! During our visit, we also toured the current temporary exhibition on the theme of Jean de la Fontaine‘s Fables, which celebrates 400 years since his birth (in 1621). It presents about sixty works by painter artists of the Libellule group.
Temporary exhibition “Homage to Jean de la Fontaine” until October 21, 2021
Rates: €12 per adult / €7.50 reduced / family package €30 / free for under 7s
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Where to sleep in Lyons-la Forêt? Hôtel Le Grand Cerf***
This 3-star hotel with a forest atmosphere is a neighbor to the Hôtel de la Licorne (4 stars) where I had stayed during my weekend in Lyons-la-Forêt in 2014. Both establishments offer beautiful half-timbered facades. Located right next to the Hôtel de La Licorne, the Hôtel Le Grand Cerf is set in a former 17th-century coaching inn, and its decor is inspired by the “forest” theme, highlighting the charm and warmth of wood across its 13 rooms.
We had a room that looked out onto the lovely Place Benserade. The view was truly charming, but I found it a bit too noisy for my taste (it’s actually quite busy with cars, even at night). So, if you are noise-sensitive like me, I recommend requesting a room facing the back of the building.
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A relaxing moment at the Nuxe Spa
Both hotels provide their guests with access to the Nuxe Spa which is located behind the establishments. Back in 2014, I even tested a weightless massage in the spa’s treehouse. The spa, housed in a beautiful Flemish-style Norman mansion, offers a 600 m2 wellness area featuring a 70 m2 indoor and outdoor pool and a herbal tea room, as well as a terrace open during nice weather. In short, it’s a magnificent place to enjoy a delicious moment of relaxation after a busy day of discoveries.
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Dinner at the Bistrot du Grand Cerf
This restaurant offers cuisine that is both traditional and inventive. It is the bistronomic address of Chef Christophe Poirier, who officiates in the Michelin-starred restaurant located right next door, the Licorne Royale (1 star in the Michelin Guide since 2014) in the heart of the Hôtel La Licorne. The bistro is set in a typically Norman decor with the same “forest chalet” atmosphere as the hotel. As the weather was quite mild during our visit, we took the opportunity to dine on the establishment’s beautiful terrace, located at the back of the restaurant. It is a more affordable table than its neighbor, the Hôtel La Licorne. It remains of very good quality, with simple and well-prepared products focusing on local cuisine that we really enjoyed.
To taste: tomato carpaccio and fresh goat cheese chantilly; chilled risotto cream and artichoke salad; black pudding parmentier and young salad; sirloin steak with shallots and fresh fries; baked banana and chocolate crumble; lemon meringue tart.
Restaurant rates: between €32 and €49 / 2-course menu €39 and 3-course menu €45
We traveled quite a bit through the department, so I have provided a selection of things to do in different parts of the Eure below. To see it all more clearly, feel free to take a look at the map at the beginning of the article or also check my Mapstr map (an app I use a lot).
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Stroll along the towpath in the village of Poses
This little boating town along the Seine is the perfect place for a bucolic stroll. Its towpath was widely used for navigation until 1850. Poses comes from the Latin “Pausa,” (which can be translated as “rest” or “pause”) because this is where sailors would rest after crossing the strait, a passage with a strong current between the island and the land. Many sailors and boatmen lived there in the 19th century and helped boats pass through the Poses dam (235 meters long) built in 1885, as well as the locks. On the other side of the dam, there is a hill with a tragic legend, the Two Lovers’ Coast (côte des deux amants). But it is said that the panorama there is magnificent! Today, the village of 1,200 inhabitants sees about forty boats pass through per day and contains boat museums (such as the tugboat Fauvette) on this theme, with tours offered by former boatmen.
During your walk, don’t hesitate to stop at the Atelier/Galerie du Bord de Seine (12 chemin du Halage 27 740 Poses / open every weekend and public holiday from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM + Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays from 2:00 PM to 7:00 PM in July and August). Michèle Ratel, a post-impressionist painter, will welcome you warmly. You can freely visit her studio on the banks of the Seine and discover the local landscapes she loves to paint.
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Visit the Château d’Acquigny
The Château d’Acquigny features a 16-hectare romantic park designed in the late 18th century, listed as a historic monument, and which also holds the Remarkable Garden label. From the old French-style section, there remain straight canals, the grand mirror, exceptional and ancient trees, as well as the vegetable garden on its island and the orangery with its collection of citrus species. In the park, you can also find a monumental artificial waterfall dating from the 18th century, which is listed as a Historic Monument. Finally, the English-style part of the park offers a more “wild” side, inspired by nature.
At the heart of the estate, there is a Renaissance castle built according to the plans of Philibert de l’Orme in the 16th century, with an addition in the 18th century. It replaced a 12th-century fortress, installed here to control navigation on the Eure and destroyed in the 14th century after the Hundred Years’ War. The current Château d’Acquigny was built for Anne de Laval (cousin of the King of France Henry II) and her husband Louis de Sily, and is intended as a testament to their eternal love. Since the 17th century, the d’Esneval family has owned the estate and oversees its conservation.
The Park also contains rare trees from all five continents. This is possible thanks to the particular microclimate of this place compared to the rest of Normandy. Thus, the oldest tree in the park, a 15th-century yew, is even older than the castle itself!
Open afternoons from the 1st Sunday of April to November 1st
Guided tours at 3:00 PM and 4:30 PM
Rates: €8 per adult / €4 per child aged 8 to 16 / free for under 8s
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Go for a canoe or kayak trip on the Eure
Another great discovery by canoe (an activity we are starting to know well and always enjoy with the favorite photographer) with this establishment located in Autheuil Authouillet, which offers kayak rentals for 5 km or 20 km routes on the Eure, depending on how much time you have. Once the route is finished, a shuttle comes to pick you up to take you back to the starting base where you left your belongings.
For our part, we did the short route, and it is truly very accessible. A slight current, no rapids, for a fairly peaceful ride that doesn’t require any special canoeing experience. It simply allows you to appreciate the landscape and contemplate nature (while, of course, doing some paddling)…
Open from March 1st to October 15th every day from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM
Rates: half-day rental starting from €22 on weekdays (starting from €25 on weekends and public holidays)
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Visit of the Rucher des Authieux (Apiary)
This visit was one of the highlights of this stay. We were hosted by Laurent, who welcomes groups (up to 30 people) to his apiary for educational purposes. This Polynesian-born owner and beekeeper invites the public to discover (and understand a little better) the world of bees. And what an absolutely fascinating world! The bee is, as we learned during this workshop, a very intelligent insect. It lives in a colony, and the bees work from sunset to sunrise, and by moving from flower to flower, they fertilize plants. It’s quite crazy, but bees, bumblebees, and butterflies alone are responsible for 40% of fruit and vegetable pollination. Finally, their queen can live up to 5 years, unlike the worker bees that only live 5 to 6 weeks.
Laurent owns 100 hives that he moves over about 3 hectares, but he also has other animals on the estate because he places great importance on biodiversity. At the time of our visit, there were about 30,000 bees per hive, and there must have been about 50,000 in July (compared to only 6,000 in winter). This is also why the beekeeping season ends around the end of July each year.
During our visit, we learned more theoretically about bees, but we also had a small practical workshop. We put on a beekeeper’s suit, and after a few recommendations from our host, we went to see the hives very, very closely… I admit that we weren’t very confident. Because even if we were protected by our suits, hearing the buzzing and the activity of these thousands of bees around us is quite impressive. Yet, it is truly an experience I recommend you do one day if you have the opportunity!
And then at the end of the visit, we obviously fell for a few gourmet products (special mention for the black sesame honey) at the shop. Laurent also sells cosmetics made with his honey in collaboration with the brand La Belle Verte Norman cosmetics.
Apiary visit and shop open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM and Sunday from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM
Visit rates: €5 per adult / €2 per child (reservation at 07 89 03 41 68 / visit starting from age 3)
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My Great Addresses in the Eure
As usual, you will find below my selection of great addresses in the Eure (two bed & breakfasts and several restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the area. You will also find some great addresses around Lyons-la-Forêt in the first part of the article.
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Where to eat in Poses? Auberge du Halage
This little address is ideally located on the towpath (which I mentioned above) if you want to take a break to eat, and it has a terrace on stilts that overlooks the Seine. The setting is therefore very nice! As for the food, the dishes were simple but well-made and with fresh products.
A big favorite for this beautiful and new address in Pacy-sur-Eure, which just opened this summer and is located in a former notarial building. The decor is great, both cozy and relaxed with an almost guinguette spirit outdoors, the service is super friendly, and the food is famous! In short, flawless! Regarding wines, you can also trust the sommelier who will help you discover some local gems, and that’s the kind of plus point that always pleases me personally.
The big plus: the superb terrace with a bohemian chic atmosphere at the back of the establishment for nice weather (that’s where we dined).
The hot tip: the establishment allows its customers to bring their own wine if they wish! Isn’t that nice?!
Prices: between €5 and €11 for starters / between €13 and €26 for main courses / between €5 and €11 for desserts
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Where to picnic along the Risle river in La Neuve-Lyre?
The hotel-restaurant Moulin Fouret in Treis-Sants-en-Ouche offers a very nice gourmet picnic option (takeaway) that we tested during a bucolic lunch by the Risle (a small Norman river that flows through the village of La Neuve-Lyre).
2 Rte du Moulin Fouret, 27300 Treis-Sants-en-Ouche
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Where to sleep in a Bed & Breakfast? La Ferme des Isles
I really liked this rural Bed & Breakfast located in Autheuil-Authouillet, where we stayed for one night during this getaway. It has a large estate (including a farm section with animals) and offers a gite that sleeps 14 as well as 5 B&B rooms. The place is decorated with taste, the hosts are super welcoming, the common areas offer great space, and the breakfast is of high quality and offers local products. What more could you ask for?! For our part, we were in the Jardin room, facing south and located on the 1st floor of the farmhouse, and it was decorated in fairly red tones (see photo below).
The little plus: a large pool for nice weather where it is pleasant to hang out (including to enjoy the aperitif offered by our hosts upon our arrival).
Rates: from €115 per night for 2 people, breakfast included
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Where to sleep in a Bed & Breakfast? Le Clos Mondétour
We didn’t personally sleep in this B&B, but some of our travel companions stayed there, and the address looked very nice too. So I suggest it to you as well (and it is very close to the B&B I was telling you about just before).
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover the Eure, and if you too have your own great addresses and tips for this destination, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
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