As you know, I love traveling around France, and I must say I’ve been spoiled because this year, 2018, has been very rich in discoveries of French regions and departments that, truthfully, I didn’t know much about. At the beginning of the summer, I went on a blog trip with a fun team of bloggers for a stay of a few days in the Eure-et-Loir department (in the Centre-Val de Loire region). It’s actually quite close to Paris, only taking 1 or 2 hours to get there from the capital, which makes it a great option for an extended weekend, for example.
To clear up any ambiguity right away: no, I didn’t make a mistake by writing Eure and Loir, because the Loir is a river that is actually a sub-tributary of the Sarthe, then the Loire (I know it can be a little confusing, but you just need to have it explained once and you’re good).
Table of Contents
Things to see and do in Eure & Loir
As usual, I offer you a little selection of ideas for outings, visits, and other original ideas—in short, things to do to discover the department.
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Visit the Château de Maintenon
This very beautiful castle recalls the intimacy between the Sun King (Louis XIV) and his favorite (and secret wife), Madame de Maintenon. The castle also features superb French gardens designed by Le Nôtre, and at the back of the property, you can see the remains of Vauban’s aqueduct. For our part, we went to the castle for a costumed night tour (the guides are the ones in costume, not us!) to dive into the secrets of the household servants through the ages. I found this visit particularly well-executed and I recommend it if you want to discover this place in a way that is a bit different from a traditional tour.
Château de Maintenon Place Aristide Briand, 28130 Maintenon Night tour rates (between April and October): 10 € adult / 8 € reduced / child 7-18 years old 5 € / free for under 7s
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The Medieval Garden of Bois Richeux
Located on a seigniorial farm near Maintenon, this now-private property has recently restored its medieval-inspired enclosed garden and is open for visits. It’s an opportunity to discover these beautiful buildings, but also to learn a little more about the virtues of plants through a very interesting fragrant tour.
Rates: 6 € adult / 4 € children / free for under 6s / guided tour for 10 € adult and 7 € child
Ferme médiévale du Bois Richeux 1, rue de la Chapelle Bois Richeux, 28130 Pierres open from July to September and the rest of the year by appointment
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The Château de Villebon
This magnificent 14th-century red brick fortress is surrounded by water-filled moats. It was notably the residence of the Duke of Sully and it is also where he died in 1641. The estate is surrounded by a very beautiful park (in which it is pleasant to stroll) and also features a very beautiful Renaissance collegiate church that you must not miss if you visit. It is now a private residence that can only be visited via guided tours by reservation between April and October (check the website for details).
Château de Villebon 28190 Villebon Rates: 9 € adult and half-price for children under 12
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The Château de la Ferté-Vidame
The ruins of this castle, which belonged to the Marquis de Laborde, are at the center of an immense French-style park. It is an extremely pleasant place to walk, stroll (in fact, this is where Saint-Simon isolated himself to write his memoirs), and why not have a little picnic as we did (see later in the article)… For information, it is also at the park entrance that you will find the Forêts du Perche Tourist Office, if you need some tourist information about the region.
The tip: Visiting this magnificent place is free! It only costs money (4 €) if you take a guided tour.
Château de la Ferté-Vidame Pavillon Saint-Dominique 28340 La Ferté-Vidame The castle park is open from November 1st to March 31st from 9 am to 5:30 pm and from April 1st to October 31st from 9 am to 7 pm
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The Windmills of the Beauce / Moulin de Sancheville
There were more than 800 windmills in Beauce in the 19th century. There are few left today, but some are open to visitors. This is the case for the Moulin de Sancheville (built in the 17th century and renovated in 1995), which we were lucky enough to discover and which is at the heart of the wheat fields. What’s funny is that we were able to turn the mill (with the strength of our little arms), a great moment and it’s a beautiful experience!
Moulin de Sancheville Crossroads D153 / D935 Voves 28800 Sancheville For info tel: 07 82 08 86 96
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Go for a ride in electric boats in Bonneval
This city is very aptly named the “little Venice of Beauce“. One of the best ways to discover its medieval architecture is still to see it while sailing on the canals that surround it. By going to the Harbor Master’s Office (Capitainerie), you can rent electric boats, which are small craft that can accommodate 4 to 5 people, are very easy to drive, and do not require a license.
La Capitainerie Place de la Grève Direction rue d'Orléans – Parking la Grève 28800 Bonneval open from April to September from 2 pm to 6 pm (weekends only in April and May) Rates: 16 € per boat for 30 min / 26 € for 1h Reservation recommended
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Go cycling to discover the department
Cycling is a great way to discover the region, especially since the Véloscénie (the bike route that connects Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel over 450 km) crosses a good part of the department. For our part, we went for a bike ride in the heart of the Perche, towards La Ferté-Vidame with the Boite à Vélos.
La Boite à vélos 63 avenue Jean Jaurès 72500 Château du Loir Who offers bike rentals (electric or not) Rates: 11 € (16 € for an electric bike) per half day / 14 € (28 € for an electric bike) per day
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Play an escape game with Escape Time in Châteaudun
As you know, I am a big fan of Escape Games; I even wrote a special article on the subject on the blog where I explain the principle of this game and talk about all the rooms I have tested in Paris and the surrounding area. I was, therefore, obviously delighted to test an escape game during this stay in Eure & Loir with my blogger friends. What I really loved about this room is that you can split into 2 teams that do the same room simultaneously and as mirror images, because an opening in the room allows you to see (from both sides) the other team’s progress and also to interact with them, but I won’t tell you more, at the risk of spoiling the surprise…
The mission of this Escape Game: free the sacred heart of Jehan de Dunois
Escape Time 2, rue des Huileries 28200 Châteaudun Rates: 20 € per player during off-peak hours and 24 € during peak hours
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Go for a hot air balloon ride
I personally never thought about going for a hot air balloon ride (perhaps out of fear, after all) and I am delighted to have been able to live this experience thanks to this blog trip! In fact, I finally think it’s something you absolutely must do at least once in your life! It’s quite incredible to see the earth from the sky without being enclosed in a plane, and the sensations felt are quite unique, I think.
On the other hand, we had to get up very early to take this flight, because you should know that it is only at dawn or at nightfall that balloons can fly under the effect of the breeze; the rest of the time, flying is more dangerous. Before taking off, we also witnessed the impressive moment when the hot air balloon inflates… Personally, I don’t have a fear of heights, but all those who went up with me and who are a bit susceptible to vertigo obviously didn’t feel it during this hot air balloon flight.
Hot air balloon ride with Air Pégasus Take-off in the park of Maintenon Rates: 170 € per person (from 6 people in the basket)
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My favorite addresses in Eure & Loir
Below, I suggest a few great addresses for accommodations and restaurants in the department that I was able to test during my stay. For accommodations, we only tested bed and breakfasts (chambre d’hôtes), which I found great, because I love this type of accommodation, which I write about regularly on the blog! I love the personalized and human welcome of bed and breakfasts, and besides, I find that it is often cheaper than a hotel (for equivalent service), notably because breakfast is normally always included in the price of the room.
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Bed & Breakfast, Le Domaine des Evis
The Domaine des Evis is located in the Perche, in a fortified farm that reportedly dates back to the Hundred Years’ War and still has two towers, probably dating from the 16th century. This superb place has been open to the public since 2011 and has 5 bed and breakfast rooms in the main building and a small house that can also be rented (for 7 people max). For my part, I stayed in the pretty blue room. If needed, the place also offers table d’hôtes in the evening (35 € per person) and at lunch as well with a buffet formula (20 €).
The great idea: do a little yoga class in the morning after waking up, a perfect way to start the day (25 € for a 1.5-hour class)
Domaine Des Evis 28340 La Chapelle Fortin Blue room rates: 150 € for 2 people (breakfast included)
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Bed & Breakfast, La Place Saint Martin
This place is ideally located on the banks of the Loir and also offers table d’hôtes upon request. The family welcome is provided by Laurence and her husband, who host us at their home with great conviviality.
Activity: Possibility of doing a crossing of the Beauce oasis by kayak (departure from the Dheury washhouse, arrival at the bed and breakfast, and canoe rental with the Club Canoë Kayak Dunois) depending on the season, of course! It’s a very pleasant little outing and another way to appreciate the region by having a completely different perspective. It’s also very relaxing!
La Place Saint Martin 10 rue du Chemin Perret 28200 Marboue Rates: 80 € for 2 people (breakfast included)
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Bed & Breakfast, La Bergerie de l’Aqueduc
This B&B is the home of an internationally renowned former baritone, Jean Philippe Lafont, and his wife. I was particularly touched by the kindness and personality of this so endearing couple! One of the main attractions of this place (in addition to its charm and its magnificent swimming pool, of course) remains precisely the beautiful encounter with these two personalities and their grandiloquent and fascinating story, much like an opera (if you are a little lucky, Jean Philippe might sing a little tune for you, and it’s a moment you won’t soon forget…). For my part, I stayed in the small room downstairs, the Tosca, which overlooks the garden and which I found full of charm.
La Bergerie de l'Aqueduc 9 Rue de l'Aqueduc, 28130 Houx La Tosca rates: between 145 € and 185 € depending on the season for 2 people (breakfast included)
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Brunch at Le Colombier d’Hanches
I didn’t stay in this B&B (which looked very pretty, by the way), but I did enjoy their pleasant summer brunch by the pool.
Le Colombier d'Hanches 8 rue des Bouveteaux 28130 Hanches Summer brunch starting in June on Sundays from 12 pm to 5 pm by reservation only / 35 € per person
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Restaurant Aux Zouaves
This restaurant, opened a short time ago, is the perfect place to have lunch and enjoy homemade cuisine made with fresh, local, and seasonal products.
The little extra: the address offers a nice selection of wines by the glass (between 3 € and 4 €) and by the bottle, from the region
Price: appetizer + main course + dessert menu at 14.80 € / child menu (-12 years old) at 8.70 €
Restaurant Aux Zouaves 1 Faverolles 28140 Terminiers open every lunch from Tuesday to Saturday
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Le Bon Pic-Nic
A good idea for picnicking in one of the parks in the region (as we did in La Ferté-Vidame) while discovering local homemade products and seasonal fruits and vegetables (for us, it was blood sausage, cider, apple juice, goat cheese, andouillette…). These local picnics are prepared by artisans and cooked with local products, and their prices also vary according to the artisan who prepared them.
Le Bon Pic-Nic Good to know: you must book online before 6 pm the day before your picnic
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Les Vergers de Beauce
This grocery store located in the city center of Bonneval offers some very nice regional products (fresh produce, fine groceries, dairy products, gift baskets…) in a short supply chain. I warmly advise you to taste the delicious l’Eurélienne beer, which is brewed in the department! It’s a family of farmers from Beauce who decided one day to diversify by starting the manufacturing of artisanal beer with barley produced on their farm.
Les Vergers de Beauce 8 rue du Bas de l’Église 28800 Bonneval open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 12:30 pm and from 3 pm to 7 pm / Sunday from 9:30 am to 12:15 pm Closed Tuesday and Thursday afternoons
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Thanks to Flora from Eure & Loir Tourisme and to Pascal from the aiRPur Agency for this welcome, as well as to all my fellow bloggers with whom I had a lot of fun, Jdroadtrip, Un Pied dans les Nuages, Voyages et Enfants, Culturez-vous and Prépare Ta Valise (thanks to Pascal for his beautiful photos of me).
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Eure-et-Loir, and if you also have your own favorite addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan and Pascal Photos not royalty-free, photographer's authorization required before any use
