In all honesty, I must admit that until a few years ago, despite several trips to Belgium, I had never heard of the city of Leuven… And that was truly a shame, because it is a particularly pleasant destination for a short city break of a few days in Flanders. Indeed, we were very pleasantly surprised to discover the city of Louvain (Leuven in Flemish), which is located east of Brussels. The city is also very easily accessible by train from Paris with Thalys to get to Belgium, and the company regularly offers low prices depending on the dates.
This article is the result of two stays in Leuven: the first with my favorite photographer in the autumn of 2017 and the second with my friend Faustine from Parisian Touch in May 2023. As you can see in the photos below, we had rather rainy weather during our first visit and beautiful sunshine during the second.
For a quick historical reminder (which I discovered while visiting the city, I assure you), Leuven is an important university city—in fact, the oldest in Belgium, as the first universities here date back to the 15th century. It is therefore a historically ancient city that retains many vestiges of its glorious past.
Practical Information:
- Getting there by train from Paris: Take a Thalys train to Brussels Midi station, then catch a train (more info here on schedules and fares – €6.10 one way) to Leuven (they run regularly and the trip takes about 30 minutes).
- Getting there by plane: The city is located just 15 minutes from Brussels Airport.













Table of Contents
Ideas of things to do during a getaway to Leuven
As usual, I suggest a small selection of ideas for outings, visits, and things to do (generally everything is accessible on foot because the city center is quite compact) to discover the destination. I also advise you to take a little night walk through the city streets, because some monuments (like the town hall, which I talk about a little later in the article) have very nice lighting at night. The city is located on the banks of the Dyle river and grew particularly from the 12th century onwards to become the capital of the Duchy of Brabant.
Also see: the small Dyle park, hidden along the old enclosure wall between Schapenstraat and Redingenstraat (it is not very far from the Grand Béguinage, which I mention a little further down).









Leuven Tourist Office
Naamsestraat 3, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
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Take a guided tour of the city with Visit Leuven
Obviously, I also strongly advise you to take the time to walk around the city. In fact, if you’re interested, the Leuven tourist office offers guided walking tours of the city with a guide. If it’s your first time in Leuven, I highly recommend one of the group guided tours Discover Leuven, which allows you to discover the city’s iconic buildings as well as a brief overview of its history: the Church of St. Michael with its trompe-l’œil, the Grand Béguinage, the Colleges, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, the University Hall (Cloth Hall)…










Guided tours by Visit Leuven
Guided tour price: approximately €6
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Take a guided tour of the Leuven Town Hall
This sublime and impressive Gothic building is located on the central square of the city. It features grand spires and dates from the beginning of the 15th century. Its construction began in 1439 and lasted 30 years. Its facades are decorated with several hundred statues of local personalities, biblical figures, and saints (you can also find Napoleon Bonaparte, for example). You can easily admire its magnificent architecture from the outside, but if you want to discover the inside, you will have to do so through a guided tour.
The guided tour allows you to discover: the hall of lost steps, the Gothic room, the various reception halls, the wedding room, the former mayor’s office…







Guided tour of the Leuven Town Hall
Tour in French on Saturday at 2:00 PM
Price: €4
The great deal: visit the Town Hall, the University Library & Tower, and M Leuven or the Park Abbey at a discounted price with the ILUVLeuven Ticket for €17 instead of €24
Link to book your tour online
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Visit St. Peter’s Church in VR
St. Peter’s parish is one of the oldest in Leuven. The current church dates back to the 15th century and is in the late Brabantine Gothic style. Inside the church (where entry is free), there are several masterpieces by Flemish Primitives: “The Last Supper” and “The Martyrdom of St. Erasmus” by Dirk Bouts; the Edelheere triptych. You can therefore visit the church for free and view these masterpieces in a traditional way, as they are located almost in their original positions, or you can take an innovative tour using a tablet or a HoloLens reality headset, as we did.
This digital experience allows you to follow a path inside the church with images and explanations in French about the history of the church, but also about 12 points of interest in the venue: the mausoleum of Henry I, the chapel of Margaret the Proud; the Brewers’ Chapel; the Flemish paintings I mentioned just before; the model of the west tower; the Triumphal Cross, etc.












St. Peter’s Church
Grote Markt 1, 3000 Leuven
free admission
VR tour of the church: €5
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Visit the Grand Béguinage of Leuven
I particularly loved the Grand Béguinage of Leuven, a Flemish site designated a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998 and particularly well-preserved. It is truly a must-see if you come to Leuven, as it is an exceptional site! This béguinage, which dates back to the 13th century, is located at the southern end of the city. It includes more than 80 houses as well as about ten convents and the church of St. John the Baptist. The golden age of the béguinage dates back to the 17th century, when the site was home to 360 béguines! Spanning approximately 3 hectares, this béguinage is one of the most important remaining in Flanders. For your information, you can walk around the Grand Béguinage for free, as it is always open to the public and it is a perfect spot for taking magnificent photos!
A quick historical reminder: a béguinage is a city where béguines (widows or single women) who, although they had not taken monastic vows, chose to lead a religious life together in a community.


















Grand Béguinage of Leuven
Groot Begijnhof, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
open 24/7 and freely accessible
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Visit the Petit Béguinage of Leuven
The city has a second, smaller béguinage, the origins of which also date back to the 13th century, and it is located rather to the north of the city. It served as a residence for the women who served at the nearby St. Gertrude’s Abbey. The 19th century saw the departure of the last béguine. Today, about thirty white houses remain, which were renovated in the 2000s and sold to private individuals.


Petit Béguinage of Leuven
Klein Begijnhof, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
open 24/7 and freely accessible
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Visit the University Library and its tower
This historical building can be visited using an audio tour (on the Heritage App, available for download), which is quite well done. The visit is an opportunity to discover the magnificent reading room of the University Library, to learn more about the building’s history through an exhibition that traces the war and the reconstruction, and also to go all the way to the top of the Tower (via stairs, however—I didn’t see an elevator) to enjoy a unique panorama of the city of Leuven. I recommend taking this tour on a sunny day with clear skies to get the best possible view of the surroundings!
This visit is also an opportunity to learn that the Library (as well as its precious books) was destroyed twice, in 1914 by the German Emperor’s army and in 1940 by a fire. It wasn’t until 1951 that the building was reopened.













University Library
Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein 21, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Prices: €7 / €5 reduced (student, teacher…)
The great deal: visit the Town Hall, the University Library & Tower, and M Leuven or Park Abbey at a discounted price with the ILUVLeuven Ticket for €17 instead of €24
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Visit the M Museum
This museum, renovated in 2009, offers art collections rich with more than 52,000 items, ranging from the Middle Ages to the present day. Since the summer of 2017, the establishment has presented a new layout in a more contemporary and educational spirit, breaking down the barriers between contemporary and ancient art. Obviously, this type of presentation may not appeal to everyone, but personally, I think that current museography must break old conventions and offer a new framework of interpretation for visitors. In this context, I find the museum’s approach quite relevant and interesting.
The museum’s approach is centered around dialogue with visitors, their interpretations of the works, and the perspective each person brings to art. Therefore, in this view, the number of objects on display is reduced, but these items change regularly to show the diversity of the collection.




















M Museum
Leopold Vanderkelenstraat 28, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Open Monday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM and Thursday from 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Prices: €12 / €10 to €5 reduced / free for under-18s
The great deal: visit the Town Hall, the University Library & Tower, and M Leuven or Park Abbey at a discounted price with the ILUVLeuven Ticket for €17 instead of €24
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Discover the street art of Leuven
As you know, I am very sensitive to street art, and it is an aspect I always love to discover in a city. In Leuven (as in Antwerp, for that matter), we used an app with the murals to see in the city: Street Art Cities. Below are some photos of urban art that I took during our travels. If you are not too tech-savvy, a map with the main murals in the city is also available at the tourist office. In any case, the city of Leuven is very rich from this point of view, and we found some very beautiful works!

















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Take a stroll in the Botanical Garden
This botanical garden is one of the oldest in Belgium. It houses a vast collection of trees, shrubs, and bushes with no fewer than 800 plants from various families from all over the world, covering an area of about 2.20 hectares. The University of Leuven developed this botanical garden for its medical students in 1783, and since 1835 it has been managed by the city of Leuven. It’s a beautiful place for a walk if the weather permits.









Botanical Garden of Leuven
Kapucijnenvoer 30, 3000 Leuven
free admission
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Visit Park Abbey
This Norbertine abbey is located just outside the city and for several years, it has been undergoing major restorations to become a major cultural center for the Belgian city. You can feel that everything is progressing well, even if the work was not yet finished during our visit in 2017. However, the complex was already open to the public. I haven’t returned during my stay in Leuven in 2023, but I think the work must be finished by now.
This abbey complex of 42 hectares was originally the hunting park of Duke Godfrey I the Bearded. The latter offered his game park to the Norbertines in 1129. Today, for example, you can visit the abbey’s chapel, which contains some lovely sculptures and goldsmith work. At the time, we also had the chance to visit the abbey’s superb library in a small group, but I believe it wasn’t yet open to the public at that time… I hope it is now… Inside the complex is also a restaurant/brasserie, De Abdijmolen, installed in the former abbey watermill, which offers some local specialties, such as abbey beer.















Park Abbey
Abdij van Park 7, 3001 Leuven
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The PARCUM museum
Since 2016, the venue has also housed the Park Abbey Museum, PARCUM, which offers a dialogue dedicated to religion, art, and culture through pieces from churches, abbeys, and cloisters. The exhibition presents some very beautiful pieces, rarely shown to the public, such as this sculpture of a crucified woman (photo below in the middle).











Parcum Museum
Visiting the museum requires an entry fee (between €5 and €10) and it is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
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Alamire Foundation
Another interesting place to discover within this space is the House of Polyphony, The Alamire Foundation. This International Centre for the Study of Music is a reference in research related to early music. The venue regularly offers concerts performed by the ensemble Park Collegium, as well as exhibitions.



Alamire Foundation
Park Abbey
Abdij van Park 7, 3001 Leuven
The Leuven Innovation Beer Festival
The history of the city of Leuven is strongly linked to that of beer, since the headquarters of major brewing groups are located in Leuven: AB Inbev and Stella Artois (originally, this beer was actually a Christmas beer created in 1926 in Leuven, which then became one of the most popular pilsners in Belgium). The city even prides itself on having been the world capital of beer with no fewer than 30 breweries at the beginning of the last century. Today, only Stella Artois and Domus still perpetuate the city’s brewing tradition.
In 2023, the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival highlighted beers from the Leuven region. This festival, which takes place every year, is an opportunity to taste beers from artisanal micro-breweries in Leuven but also from all over the world!
Breweries discovered during this 2023 edition: Misery Beer Company (artisanal Belgian beer in the Ardennes); De Coureur brewery (located in the Leuven area); Hops ‘N More brewery of Leuven.








Leuven Innovation Beer Festival
May 20th and 21st, 2023
Prices: 1 festival glass + 3 tasting tickets for €15 in advance
My good food addresses in Leuven
Here are some great gourmet addresses (restaurant, coffee shop, chocolatier…) that I was able to discover in Leuven during these two stays! In fact, with almost 200 restaurants and 240 cafés, the center of Leuven is probably one of the most concentrated areas for bars and restaurants in Flanders. And if you are looking for a place to go out for a drink in the evening, you can head to the Oude Markt, a city square consisting almost exclusively of cafés and restaurants, which turns into a giant terrace when the weather is nice.
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Where to buy good chocolates in Leuven? Bittersweet Chocolaterie
A great local address for bringing back some quality chocolate treats, made on-site, and super original and colorful, with unusual ingredients. I love the little silver robot; it’s so cute!

Bittersweet
Bondgenotenlaan 108, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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My selection of coffee shops in Leuven
I find the city of Leuven to be particularly rich in charming little coffee shops, perfect for just having a coffee, for breakfast, for brunch, or even for tea time. Below are the addresses that we tested with great pleasure with my friend Faustine in 2023.
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Koffie & Staal
This coffee shop is super nice with its large room to sit in and its chill and relaxed atmosphere. This address offers coffee and tea, but also homemade pastries and even some decorative items and jewelry for sale. It’s the ideal place for breakfast and/or brunch from the menu. I highly recommend it; it was one of our favorites of the trip!









Tested in 2023
Koffie en Staal
Dirk Boutslaan 12, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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Onan Coffee & Tea
This roaster, which has existed since 2004, makes fair-trade coffees. The address also offers a small street terrace to sit down and quietly enjoy your coffee in the sun.





Tested in 2023
Onan Coffee & Tea
Parijsstraat 28, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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Madmum Coffee roastery & bar
The brand has several addresses in Leuven, and we tested the one located right next to our hotel on Tiensestraat. They are also roasters, and you can also buy their coffee on-site. It’s a very nice place for breakfast and/or a brunch à la carte. The address also has a fairly large terrace for sunny days in front of the establishment.









Tested in 2023
Madmum Coffee roastery & bar
Tiensestraat 38, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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Noir Coffee Bar
We also really liked this very nice address, which has a cozy and vintage decor. They offer coffees of traceable origin from seed to cup that are of very high quality. And their coffees are very renowned. Perfect for a break during your wanderings in the city.





Tested in 2023
Noir Coffee Bar
Naamsestraat 49, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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My selection of restaurants in Leuven
Below, I suggest a selection of restaurants that I tested in Leuven during my stay in 2017, and then in 2023.
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Where to have lunch in an old brewery in Leuven? De Hoorn
This place, whose building is listed because it is installed in an old brewery, houses a restaurant (where we dined), a bar, a brewery, and rooms for events or receptions. The De Hoorn brewery developed in the 15th century to become one of the city’s main companies. In 1708, Sébastien Artois became a master brewer at De Hoorn and bought the brewery 9 years later, giving it his name. The very first Stella Artois was brewed here in 1926 as a Christmas beer. It is therefore a place steeped in history. You can still see the old brewing hall, as well as the copper brewing vats. The brewery is located in the old industrial zone of the city, the Vaartkom district (easily accessible on foot from the city center).
We tasted: the house cocktails (between €8.50 and €11); as a starter to share, sweet potato fries with za’atar (€9.50); for the main dish, the vol-au-vent (€32), which didn’t really convince me personally; the warm chicken escalope (€21); and for dessert, the grilled peach with lavender (€12.50).











Tested in 2023
Restaurant De Hoorn
Sluisstraat 79, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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Where to have a casual dinner in Leuven? De Optimist
The address is perfect for sharing original dishes inspired by the whole world, or just for a drink. The venue also offers a nice terrace in the address’s inner courtyard (with a work by our “friend” Bisser, whom I mentioned in the paragraph about street art). The venue offers plates of different sizes to share and combine with friends, along with a nice selection of Belgian beers if you like that!







De Optimist
Vismarkt 7, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Prices: small plate €8 / medium plate €16 / large plate €24
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Where to have a plant-based lunch in Leuven? Bar Jérôme
This nice address offers creative, healthy, and fusion dishes with a great vegan and vegetarian selection (but not only…) and a concept of plates to share. The service is also extremely friendly (and partially speaks French); however, please note that there is no menu in English or French (only in Dutch). The venue also has a nice terrace in front of the establishment for sunny days, and I recommend you try the homemade non-alcoholic drinks, which we found very nice with Faustine.








Tested in 2023
Bar Jérôme
Wandelingstraat 10, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Price: dishes between €19.90 and €21.90
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Where to eat Italian in Leuven? Baracca
This Italian restaurant offers quite a few creative dishes to share, crispy pizzas, or even very nice signature cocktails. The venue is quite large and offers different spaces, including two terraces (one in the front and another smaller one at the back of the establishment), but unfortunately, they were both full when we arrived, so we sat inside.









Tested in 2023
Baracca
Tiensestraat 34, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
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Where to have a bistronomic lunch in Leuven? At Zarza
A very nice address that we liked a lot in 2017 (run by chef Gert Cordemans), with a very designer decor and carefully prepared plates. The menu changes with the seasons. Please note, in the evening the restaurant only offers a tasting menu in 5 or 6 courses.





Tested in 2017
Zarza
Bondgenotenlaan 92, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Prices: 5-course menu at €80 and 6-course at €93
Lunch price: starter + main €35.50 / starter + main + dessert €45.50
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Where to have a gourmet dinner in Leuven? Restaurant D’Artagnan
This gourmet restaurant, which is located in the city center of Leuven, is run by chef Ernest Kalse, who offers fresh cuisine with quality products. We also tested it in 2017.




Tested in 2017
Restaurant D’Artagnan
Naamsestraat 72, 3000 Leuven, Belgium
Prices: evening tasting menu starting from €58 (for 3 courses) / lunch menu at midday starting from €38
Where to stay in Leuven?
Below, I suggest you discover the two accommodations (a designer hotel and an apartment hotel) that we had the opportunity to test during our stays in Leuven with the favorite photographer and with my friend Faustine.
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Where to stay in the city center? Street Art Lodging
This brand-new accommodation, opened in the spring of 2023, is ideally located in the city center and offers 15 different rooms based on the theme of art. There is no reception (and no breakfast service either) and there is a self-check-in system, which is quite practical. You can also leave your luggage in lockers on the ground floor of the hotel if you arrive before check-in (from 3:00 PM) or if you want to leave your bags on the day of departure, after check-out time. Another good point: the accommodation is about a 15-minute walk from the station, so it’s very easy to get to.
The decor of our room (No. 203) was based on the street art theme and was done by the Leuven artist Bisser, whose many works we also saw during our street art tour of the city (which I mentioned a little higher up in the article). Our room was also very quiet because it faces the back of the building onto a peaceful courtyard/garden. Finally, the bedding was very comfortable, which is always an important point to note.









Tested in 2023
Street Art Lodging
Muntstraat 32, 3000 Leuven
Prices starting from €125 for a room for 2 people (depending on the season)
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Where to stay near the station? The Park Inn by Radisson in Leuven
Located right next to the Leuven station, this large hotel (133 rooms) can be extremely practical if you travel to Leuven by train. In addition, you can also easily get to the city center on foot from the hotel. I can reassure you right away: even though it is very close to the railway tracks, this hotel is well-insulated and very quiet, and you can trust me on this, given how super picky (to put it mildly…) I am on the subject. The breakfast buffet is also quite well-stocked with quality products.





Tested in 2017
Park Inn by Radisson Leuven
Martelarenlaan 36, 3010 Leuven
The little extra: free wifi throughout the hotel
Prices: starting from €120 per night
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Thanks to Visit Flanders, Thalys, and Visit Leuven for these two invitations and for their welcome!

I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover Leuven in Flanders, and if you also have your own good addresses and tips for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments!

Find all my articles on Belgium (Flanders and Wallonia) below:
⇒ All my articles on Belgium
⇒ All my articles on Flanders
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT BELGIUM
⇒ Brussels the capital
⇒ Belgian gastronomy
⇒ Bed and breakfasts in Belgium
MY ARTICLES ON FLANDERS
⇒ Bruges
⇒ Ghent
⇒ Leuven
⇒ The Belgian Coast and Ostend
MY ARTICLES ON WALLONIA
⇒ The Gaume Province
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez & MelleBonPlan Photos are not royalty-free, the photographer's authorization is required before any use
