Visiting Leuven (Louvain): my city break and favorite addresses

Text by Melle Bon Plan • Photos by Nicolas Diolez
• Updated on • 22 min read
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To be completely honest, I must admit that until a few years ago, despite several trips to Belgium, I had never even heard of the city of Leuven… And that was a real shame, because it is a particularly lovely destination for a short city break of a few days in Flanders. Indeed, we were pleasantly surprised by discovering the city of Leuven (known as Louvain in French), located just east of Brussels. Furthermore, it’s very easily accessible by train from Paris via Eurostar (formerly Thalys) for a getaway to Belgium, and the company regularly offers great deals depending on your dates.

This article is the result of two stays in Leuven: the first with my favorite photographer in autumn 2017, and the second with my friend Faustine from Parisian Touch in May 2023. As you’ll see in the photos below, we had rather rainy weather during our first trip and magnificent sunshine during the second!

First, a quick historical recap (which I discovered while visiting the city, I assure you): Leuven is a major university city, and actually the oldest in Belgium since its university was founded in 1425. It is therefore a deeply historic city that retains many vestiges of its glorious past.

Practical information:

  • Getting there by train from Paris: take an Eurostar train to Brussels-Midi station (about 1h20 from Paris-Nord) and then catch a connecting train (find more info on schedules and fares here, expect around 6 € one way in 2026) to Leuven (they run regularly and the journey takes about 25 minutes).
  • Getting there by plane: the city is located just 15 minutes from Brussels Airport.

Plan your stay

Hotels we tried

Partner links: Booking. Booking through these links supports the blog, at no extra cost to you. For greater transparency…This selection contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through them, the partner website may pay us a small commission.

Antique plate from Leuven decorated with flowers and a coat of arms bearing the inscription LOVEN.
Cobbled street in Leuven with a cyclist and passersby in front of a brick building.
Stream flowing under a pedestrian bridge near a white house in Leuven.
Red brick facade of a large historic building in Leuven featuring dormer windows.
Old brick house in Leuven with a bicycle parked on cobblestones.
Woman on an ornamental bridge at the Botanical Garden of Leuven.
Cobbled street in Leuven leading to the Gothic Town Hall.
Young man on a bicycle in front of a large ornate wooden door in Leuven.
Cobbled alleyway in Leuven with red brick houses and a bicycle in the foreground.
Woman in front of the brick facade of the Great Beguinage of Leuven.
Bicycle in front of a blue door at the Small Beguinage in Leuven, with a St. Lucia plaque.
Selfie of two smiling women on the tower of the University Library of Leuven.
Blue bicycle parked in front of a bird graffiti on a utility box in Leuven.

What to see and do in Leuven?

As usual, I’ve put together a small selection of outing ideas, sights, and things to do (overall everything is within walking distance as the city center is quite compact) to help you discover the destination. I also recommend taking a night walk through the city streets, as certain monuments (like the town hall which I’ll mention a bit later in the article) feature gorgeous night lighting. The city is situated along the banks of the Dyle river and particularly flourished from the 12th century onwards to become one of the capitals of the Duchy of Brabant.

Also worth seeing: the small Dyle Park, tucked away along the old defensive wall between Schapenstraat and Redingenstraat (not far from the Great Beguinage I’ll tell you about shortly).

Yellow facade in Leuven with a white bicycle parked in front of entrance number 47.
Woman walking down a cobbled alley in Leuven between colorful houses.
Terrace of a Stella Artois bar in Leuven with people seated at tables.
Lively public square in Leuven featuring historic architecture and outdoor cafe terraces.
Facade of the Leuven Town Hall, featuring the inscriptions "The Fourth" and "Tafelrond".
Great Beguinage of Leuven, cobbled pathway and red brick facades.
Gothic Town Hall of Leuven illuminated at night.
Town Hall of Leuven at night, illuminated, with visitors in the foreground.
Town Hall of Leuven illuminated at night with passersby on the square.

Visit Leuven Tourist Office

Jozef Vounckplein 2, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM

Link to the tourist office website

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Take a guided tour of the city with Visit Leuven

Naturally, I also strongly advise taking the time to wander around the city. If you’re interested, the Leuven tourist office offers guided walking tours of the city with a guide. If it’s your first time in Leuven, I highly recommend a guided tour, which lets you discover the city’s iconic buildings along with a brief history lesson: St. Michael’s Church with its trompe-l’œil, the Great Beguinage, the Colleges, St. Peter’s Collegiate Church, the University Hall (Cloth Hall)… Visit Leuven now offers the ILUVLeuven Walk, a roughly 45-minute guided stroll through the historic heart, available in Dutch or English.

Cobbled and vaulted entrance leading to the Beguinage of Leuven, featuring a wrought-iron gate.
Man walking toward the Leuven University Library building featuring a clock.
Numerous bicycles parked in front of a brick building in Leuven beneath a large tree.
Ancient religious triptych inside a Leuven church, in front of a wooden pew.
Tourist under an umbrella in Leuven wearing a winter coat.
Baroque interior of St. Peter's Church in Leuven with a dome and sculpted columns.
Facade of St. Peter's Church in Leuven with pedestrians and bicycles crossing the street.
Historic facade on a street in Leuven with a cyclist and a pedestrian.
Vibrant yellow chandelier beneath the Gothic vault of a Leuven church.
Gothic choir of a Leuven church with its altar.

ILUVLeuven Walk

Departure from the Visit Leuven reception desk, arrival at Grote Markt

About 45 minutes, in Dutch or English

Price: 7 €

Link to the walk page

The good deal: the ILUVLeuven ticket (19 €, valid for 3 days) includes this walk, the University Library with its tower, and your choice of either the M Leuven museum or the Park Abbey.

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Admire the Leuven Town Hall

This sublime and impressive Gothic building stands on the city’s central square, featuring tall spires and dating back to the early 15th century. Construction began in 1439 and took 30 years. Its facades are decorated with several hundred statues of local figures, biblical characters, and saints (though you can also spot Napoleon Bonaparte among them, for instance). You can easily admire its magnificent architecture from the outside, but the interior can only be explored through a guided tour.

The guided tour allowed visitors to discover: the Salle des Pas Perdus (hall of lost steps), the Gothic hall, the various reception salons, the wedding room, the former mayor’s office… Please note that the town hall is closed for renovation until the end of 2029 and its facade will remain under scaffolding until the summer of 2027: in the meantime, interior visits are no longer available.

Sumptuous room in Leuven Town Hall with chandeliers and gilded paintings.
Historic reception room of the Leuven Town Hall with gilded chandeliers and portraits.
Historic reception room in Leuven with a crystal chandelier and tapestries.
Gothic facade of the Leuven Town Hall with flags and visitors.
Richly ornamented Leuven Town Hall with tourists on the square.
Reception room with crystal chandelier, wall murals and a large wooden table in Leuven.
Vaulted wooden ceiling and chandeliers inside the Leuven Town Hall.

Leuven Town Hall

Grote Markt, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Closed for renovations until the end of 2029 (facade under scaffolding until summer 2027)

Link to the town hall page on the Visit Leuven website

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Visit St. Peter’s Church

St. Peter’s Parish is one of the oldest in Leuven. The current church dates back to the 15th century and is built in the Brabantine Late Gothic style. Inside the church (where admission is free), you’ll find several masterpieces by Flemish Primitives: “The Last Supper” and “The Martyrdom of Saint Erasmus” by Dirk Bouts, as well as the Edelheere triptych. You can visit the church for free and view these masterpieces in the traditional way—sitting almost in their original locations—or you can opt for an innovative tour using a tablet or even HoloLens reality headsets, as we did.

This digital experience allowed us to follow a route through the church with images and explanations in French about the church’s history as well as 12 highlights of the site: the mausoleum of Henry I, the chapel of Margaret the Proud, the brewers’ chapel, the Flemish paintings I mentioned just moments ago, the model of the west tower, the triumphal cross, etc. M Leuven now offers this experience on tablets under the name “Experience Bouts”.

Gothic stone monument inside St. Peter's Church in Leuven.
Interior of St. Peter's Church in Leuven, Gothic nave with sculpture and pews.
Exterior of St. Peter's Church in Leuven with Gothic spire and stained-glass windows under a blue sky.
Descent from the Cross, painted wooden panel in Leuven, St. Peter's Church.
Dirk Bouts triptych at St. Peter's Church in Leuven, martyrdom theme.
Gilded and wooden reliquary inside St. Peter's Church in Leuven.
Virtual tour of St. Peter's Church in Leuven with augmented reality headset.
Exhibited carved wooden head, possibly originating from St. Peter's Church in Leuven.
Polyptych of the Last Supper from St. Peter's Church in Leuven.
Statue of Our Lady of Leuven with Child inside St. Peter's Church.
Immersive virtual tour at St. Peter's Church in Leuven with augmented reality headsets.
Monumental crucifix and statues inside St. Peter's Church in Leuven.

St. Peter’s Church

Grote Markt 1, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open daily from 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM (from 11:00 AM on Sundays)

Free admission

“Experience Bouts” tablet tour: 5 € (approx. 1 hour, in French, not available on Wednesdays from October to March)

Link to the tablet tour page

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Visit the Great Beguinage of Leuven

I particularly loved the Great Beguinage of Leuven, a Flemish site classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998 and exceptionally well preserved. It’s an absolute must-see if you come to Leuven, as it’s truly an outstanding site! This beguinage, whose origins date back to the 13th century, is located at the southern edge of the city. It comprises over 80 houses, about a dozen convents, and Saint John the Baptist’s Church. The beguinage’s golden age was in the 17th century, when it sheltered 360 beguines! Spanning roughly 3 hectares, this beguinage is one of the largest surviving ones in Flanders. For your information, you can stroll around the Great Beguinage for free as it is permanently open to the public, making it a perfect spot to snap stunning photos!

Quick historical reminder: a beguinage is a community where beguines (widows or single women) who, despite not taking monastic vows, chose to lead a supportive religious life together in a community.

Cobbled alley of the Leuven Beguinage featuring red brick buildings and sloping roofs.
Tourist in Leuven looking up in front of a brick wall.
Bicycles parked along a cobbled street in the Great Beguinage of Leuven.
Couple walking under an umbrella down a historic cobbled street in the Leuven Beguinage.
Woman in a chevron coat posing in front of a red brick wall in Leuven.
Woman with an umbrella on a cobbled street in the Leuven Beguinage.
Old brick buildings running alongside a canal in Leuven near the beguinage.
Red brick building of the Leuven Beguinage with a lawn and greenery.
Red brick house with greenery, garden, and a tree at the Leuven Beguinage site.
Woman leaning against the threshold of a green doorway at the Great Beguinage of Leuven.
Garden of the Great Beguinage of Leuven with red brick houses under a blue sky.
Two smiling women wearing sunglasses in front of the Great Beguinage of Leuven.
Cobbled pathway and red brick houses of the Great Beguinage of Leuven.
Leuven Beguinage, river, brick houses, and blue sky.
Cobbled courtyard of the Great Beguinage of Leuven with a well and red brick buildings.
Cobbled walkway of the Great Beguinage of Leuven with red brick buildings under a blue sky.
Cobbled courtyard of the Great Beguinage of Leuven with bicycles and vintage lighting.
Cobbled alley of the Great Beguinage of Leuven lined with red brick buildings.

Great Beguinage of Leuven

Groot Begijnhof, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open permanently and accessible for free (the neighborhood is inhabited, so please keep quiet and respectful)

Link to the beguinage page on the Visit Leuven website

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Visit the Small Beguinage of Leuven

The city has a second, smaller beguinage whose origins also date back to the 13th century, located more towards the northern part of the city. It is believed to have served as a residence for women who worked for the nearby St. Gertrude’s Abbey. The 19th century saw the departure of the last beguine. Today, about thirty white houses remain; they were renovated in the 2000s and sold to private individuals.

Cobbled street between the white houses of the Small Beguinage of Leuven.
Bicycle in front of the blue "St. Lucia" door at the Small Beguinage of Leuven.

Small Beguinage of Leuven

Klein Begijnhof, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open permanently and accessible for free

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Visit the University Library and its Tower

This historic building can be toured using a very well-made audioguide (via a downloadable Heritage App). The visit is an opportunity to discover the magnificent reading room of the University Library, learn more about the building’s history through an exhibition tracing the war and reconstruction, and also climb all the way to the top of the Tower (via stairs, however—I didn’t spot an elevator) to enjoy a unique panoramic view of the city of Leuven. I recommend doing this visit on a bright, clear day to get the best possible view of the surroundings!

This visit is also an opportunity to learn that the Library (along with its precious books) was destroyed twice: in 1914 by the German emperor’s army and in 1940 by a fire. It wasn’t until 1951 that the building fully reopened its doors.

Leuven Town Hall and its tower, Market Square.
Leuven University Library with students, wood paneling, and monumental staircase.
Exhibition at the Leuven University Library behind a barrier.
Monumental staircase of the Leuven University Library, lion, and spiral staircase turret.
Leuven University Library and its tower under a blue sky.
Leuven University Library and its tower, with a tourist taking pictures.
Leuven University Library and its high tower with Flemish architecture.
Bell tower of the Leuven University Library with a golden clock.
Dark exhibition at the Leuven University Library on the city's history and architecture.
Panoramic view of Leuven with modern buildings, cranes, and a blue sky.
View of Leuven from the University Library, stone balustrade.
Selfie of two smiling women at the Leuven University Library.
Inclusion flag fluttering near a stone sculpture under a blue sky in Leuven.

University Library

Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein 21, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open weekdays from 9 AM to 6 PM, weekends and public holidays from 10 AM to 6 PM (last tower ascent at 5 PM)

Prices: €5 for the library with audioguide / €10 with the tower (€8 or €5 reduced rate)

On weekdays, the grand reading room can be viewed from the central aisle; on weekends, visitors can walk through it

Visit included with the ILUVLeuven ticket

Link to website with information about this visit

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Visiting the M Leuven museum

Housed in a new building since 2009, this museum features art collections boasting over 58,000 objects ranging from the Middle Ages to the present day. Since the summer of 2017, the institution has presented a new scenography with a more contemporary and educational spirit, breaking down the barriers between contemporary and ancient art. Of course, this type of presentation might not appeal to everyone, but personally, I think current museology needs to break away from old rules and offer visitors a fresh interpretive framework. In that sense, I find the museum’s approach entirely relevant and interesting.

The museum’s approach focuses on dialogue with visitors, their interpretations of the works, and everyone’s personal perspective on art. Consequently, the number of displayed objects is reduced, but they change regularly to showcase the diversity of the collection.

Ancient religious triptych on display at the Leuven (Leuven) museum.
Woman looking at an ancient painting of the months of the year at M Museum Leuven.
Ancient polychrome statue of a woman holding a jar, Leuven museum.
Stone bust of a bearded man, sculpture at M Museum Leuven.
Modern art exhibition and religious sculptures at M Museum Leuven.
Sculpted busts made of various materials on display at M Museum Leuven.
Statues of Christ of Sorrows on display at Museum M in Leuven.
Wooden crucifixion sculptures at Museum M in Leuven.
Sculpture of Christ crucified on display at Museum M in Leuven.
Ancient sculpture with beard at M Museum Leuven.
Religious wooden sculptures on display in a room at Museum M in Leuven.
Interior of M Museum Leuven with Flemish sculptures and paintings.
Visitor admiring colorful floral paintings at M Museum Leuven.
Luxurious interior of M Museum Leuven with portraits and central sculpture.
Colorful abstract forest painting seen at M Museum Leuven.
Contemporary art exhibition at M Museum Leuven featuring a large colorful artwork.
Contemporary art exhibition at M Museum Leuven featuring abstract and figurative paintings.
M Museum Leuven facade with staircase sculpture and dome.
Façade of M Museum Leuven, in front of parked bicycles and a sculptural staircase.
Entrance of M Museum Leuven with an exterior staircase and large white logo on the window.

M Leuven

Leopold Vanderkelenstraat 28, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open Monday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 11 AM to 6 PM, Thursday from 11 AM to 10 PM (closed on Wednesday)

Prices: €16 / €12 reduced rate / free for under 18s

Visit included in the ILUVLeuven ticket (choice between this and Park Abbey)

Link to the museum’s website

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Discovering Leuven’s street art

As you know, I am very passionate about street art, and it’s always an aspect I love discovering in a city. In Leuven (just like in Antwerp, for that matter), we used an app to find the murals to see around town: Street Art Cities. Below are a few photos of urban art that I snapped during our wanderings. If you aren’t too tech-savvy, a street art walking brochure (6 km, 16 works, €1) is also available at the tourist office. In any case, the city of Leuven is very rich in this regard, and we uncovered some truly wonderful pieces!

Street art in Leuven: mural of a large blue cat with pink stripes.
Street art by Bisser in Leuven with children playing in front of bird drawings.
Leuven street art: mural of a blue bird in mid-flight.
Leuven street-art mural with black and white faces and the inscription LOUVEN.
Leuven street art: character sitting near a tree with the word "BIJSER".
Leuven street art: giant mural portrait near parked bicycles.
Street art in Leuven: white figure crossing a red stripe on a brick wall.
Leuven mural street art: hat, palm tree, flamingo, and tropical landscape.
Geometric pink flamingo street art on a white wall, bicycles parked below.
Leuven street art: mural of a person reading with a red butterfly.
Leuven street art blue wall with paintings: bird, coffee, violin, flowers, shaking hands.
Street art in Leuven by Bisser depicting figures climbing a giant barcode.
Leuven street art: blue dragon and flying shoes in front of a church.
Street art mural in Leuven depicting a market with the date 1886.
Leuven street art brick wall with louvan van and street lamp.
Leuven street art: turtle wearing a beanie on an electrical box.
Street art in Leuven representing human figures expressing various emotions near 'Lei' and 'Craenendonck' signs.

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Taking a stroll in the botanical garden

This botanical garden is one of the oldest in Belgium. It is home to a vast collection of trees, shrubs, and bushes with no fewer than 800 plants from various families coming from all four corners of the world, spread across an area of about 2.20 hectares. The University of Leuven laid out this botanical garden for its medical students in 1738, and since 1835 it has been managed by the city of Leuven. It’s a lovely spot for a stroll if the weather permits.

Leuven Botanical Garden: fountain and greenhouse in front of a red brick building.
Brick wall fountain with a mascaron and geraniums in the Leuven Botanical Garden.
Leuven Botanical Garden with visitors on a winding path among lush vegetation.
Leuven Botanical Garden with pond, wooden boardwalk, and lush vegetation.
Brick building and exotic plants at the Leuven Botanical Garden.
Round greenhouse and lush vegetation of the Leuven Botanical Garden.
Tropical greenhouse at the Leuven Botanical Garden with hanging flowers and turtles near a basin.
Entrance to a greenhouse at the Leuven Botanical Garden with tropical plants.
Lush tropical greenhouse of the Leuven Botanical Garden with paved path.

Leuven Botanical Garden (Kruidtuin)

Kapucijnenvoer 30, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Open daily from 8 AM (9 AM on Sundays and public holidays), until 5 PM, 6 PM, or 8 PM depending on the season

Free admission

Link to the garden page on the Visit Leuven website

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Visiting Park Abbey

This Norbertine abbey is located just outside the city, and for several years now it has been undergoing major renovations to become a major cultural center for the Belgian city. You can tell everything is progressing well, even though the work wasn’t finished yet during our visit in 2017. However, the complex was already open to the public. I didn’t go back there during my trip to Leuven in 2023, but the major restoration launched in 2011 is now coming to an end (the final buildings are scheduled for completion by 2027).

This 42-hectare abbey complex was originally the hunting park of Duke Godfrey I the Bearded. He gifted his game park to the Norbertines in 1129. Today, you can visit the abbey chapel, which houses some lovely sculptures and silverware. We also had the chance at the time to tour the superb abbey library in a small group, though I believe it wasn’t open to the general public back then… I hope that’s the case now… Inside the complex, you’ll also find the De Abdijmolen restaurant/brasserie, set in the abbey’s former water mill, which serves local specialties like abbey beer.

Cloister of the Leuven Abbey with gothic windows and shrubs in the courtyard.
Gothic-style bronze reliquary, central statue with a book in Leuven.
Paved alley leading to the gate of the Dieleghem Abbey in Leuven.
Leuven bell tower with Roman clocks and a rooster weather vane.
Red brick and carved stone vault of the Carré Abbey in Leuven.
Crowned statue holding a skull, likely from a Leuven abbey.
Interior of the Park Abbey chapel in Leuven with an altar and marble sculptures.
Church interior in Leuven, altar with statues, red curtains, and royal staircase.
Interior of the Leuven University Library: carved ceiling, wooden shelves, visitors.
Leather-bound antique books in the Leuven University Library.
Ceiling bas-relief of the Leuven University Library with religious figures and angels.
Ancient wooden library in Leuven with shelves, globe, and drawer cabinet.
Leuven University Library bas-relief: man in a hat stopping a wounded horseman.
Red brick and stone ogival vault in a Leuven cloister.
Leuven restaurant terrace with wicker tables and chairs by the water.

Park Abbey

Abdij van Park 7, 3001 Heverlee (Leuven), Belgium

Park and ponds freely accessible and open to all

Link to the abbey’s website

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The Parcum Museum

Since 2017, the site also houses the Park Abbey Museum, PARCUM, which features a dialogue dedicated to religion, art, and culture through pieces from churches, abbeys, and cloisters. The exhibition featured some truly wonderful pieces, rarely shown to the public, such as this sculpture of a crucified woman (pictured in the middle below).

Ancient painting of a holy monk holding a crosier and a chalice, on display in Leuven.
Polychrome wooden statue of a woman tied to a black cross, Leuven exhibition.
Cross and crucifix on display in an exhibition room at the Leuven Abbey.
Old wooden crucifix casting a shadow, on display at the Parcum museum in Park Abbey, Leuven.
Old statue of the Virgin and Child on display at the Parcum museum in Park Abbey.
Ancient polychrome sculpture of the Virgin or a female saint holding an object, exhibition in Leuven.
Wooden sculpture of Moses presenting the Tables of the Law during an exhibition in Leuven.
Series of children statues, exhibition at the Leuven Abbey.
Wooden sculpture of a saint holding a book, Leuven.
Silhouette of a woman looking at a column of light in an exhibition at the Parcum museum.
Audience attending a guided tour or exhibition in a dark room in Leuven.

Parcum Museum

“Interwoven Landscapes” exhibition from October 24, 2026, to March 28, 2027

Prices: €16 / €12 for Leuven residents / free for under 18s

Visit included in the ILUVLeuven ticket (choice between this and M Leuven)

Link to the museum page

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The Alamire Foundation

Another interesting place to discover also located in this area is the House of Polyphony, the Alamire Foundation. This International Centre for the Study of Music is a benchmark in research related to early music. The foundation organizes concerts and exhibitions there, as well as the Voices of Passion festival (next edition from April 23 to 30, 2027).

Medieval fresco fragment on a wall near a capital in Leuven.
Gothic interior of the vaulted Leuven abbey hallway with a crucifix and diamond-patterned tiles.
Draped skeleton sculpture at Park Abbey in Leuven.

Alamire Foundation

Park Abbey

Abdij van Park 7, 3001 Heverlee (Leuven), Belgium

Link to the foundation’s website

Leuven, a city of beer

The history of the city of Leuven is closely tied to beer, as major brewing groups have their headquarters in Leuven: AB InBev and Stella Artois (originally, this beer was actually a Christmas brew created in Leuven in 1926 before later becoming one of the most popular pilsners in Belgium). The city even boasts of having been the world capital of beer with no fewer than 42 breweries in the mid-18th century. Today, Stella Artois and the Domus brewery-cafe still carry on this tradition, joined by young craft breweries.

Indeed, back in 2023, the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival spotlighted beers from the Leuven region. This festival, held annually, was an opportunity to taste beers from Leuven craft microbreweries as well as from all over the world! The 2025 edition was canceled and no new date has been announced, but the Hops ‘N More shop launched a new event in June 2026: the Leuven Craft Beer Fest.

Breweries discovered during this 2023 edition: Misery Beer Company (Belgian craft beer in the Ardennes); De Coureur brewery (located in Kessel-Lo, in the municipality of Leuven); Hops ‘N More from Leuven.

Craft beer and flowers on a wooden table during the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival.
Bottles of Dormaal Farm Brewery craft beer at the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival.
Rott. Shadow Imperial Stout can and glass with Leuven Beer Festival 2023 logo.
Glass of beer at the 2023 Leuven Innovation Beer Festival, outdoor crowd.
Leuven beer fair with De Coureur, Poppyland, Malcroys, Felis signs.
Tasting glasses in front of the Leuven Innovation Beer Festival poster.
Glass of beer from the 2023 Leuven Innovation Beer Festival with yellow flowers.
Glass of beer at the 2023 Leuven Innovation Beer Festival.

Leuven Innovation Beer Festival

Edition of May 20 and 21, 2023

Price in 2023: 1 festival glass + 3 tasting tickets for €15 in pre-sale

My favorite food spots in Leuven

Here are a few great foodie spots (restaurants, coffee shops, chocolatiers, etc.) that I discovered in Leuven during these two stays! With nearly 200 restaurants and 240 cafes, downtown Leuven is probably one of the most bar- and restaurant-dense areas in Flanders. And if you’re looking for a place to go out for a drink in the evening, you can head to the Oude Markt, nicknamed “Europe’s longest bar,” a city square made up almost entirely of cafes and restaurants that turns into a giant terrace when the weather is nice.

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Where to buy good chocolates in Leuven? Bittersweet Chocolaterie

A great local spot to bring back some quality chocolate treats made on-site that are super original and colorful, featuring unusual ingredients. I love the little silver robot, it’s so cute!

Platter of artisanal Leuven chocolates, including a "bittersweet" and a golden buddha shape.

Bittersweet

Bondgenotenlaan 108, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the chocolaterie’s website

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My selection of coffee shops in Leuven

I find that the city of Leuven is particularly rich in charming little coffee shops, perfect for just grabbing a coffee, having breakfast, enjoying brunch, or stopping for afternoon tea. Below are the spots that my friend Faustine and I thoroughly enjoyed testing out in 2023.

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Koffie en Staal

This coffee shop is super nice with its large room to relax in and its chill, casual vibe. This spot serves coffee and tea, as well as homemade pastries, plus a few decorative items and jewelry for sale. It’s the ideal place to grab breakfast and/or have an à la carte brunch. I warmly recommend it; it was one of our favorite finds of the trip!

Caffe latte with latte art and foamy drink in Leuven.
Koffie en Staal Leuven: pastries, juices, and coffees on a wooden table.
Bowl of granola and fresh fruit (strawberries, blueberries, banana) with a hot drink in Leuven.
Interior of a modern cafe in Leuven with customers and a menu board.
Cinnamon rolls with vanilla glaze at Koffie en Staal Leuven.
Staff preparing coffees and pastries behind the counter of a cafe in Leuven.
Shelf with plants, preserve jars, and an antique scale in a shop in Leuven.
Lounge corner with a round wooden table and green plants in a Leuven cafe.
Terrace of Koffie in Staal in Leuven with tables and chairs.
Tested in 2023

Koffie en Staal

Dirk Boutslaan 12, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the coffee shop’s website

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Onan Coffee & Tea

This roastery, which has been around since 2004, serves fair-trade coffees. The place also features a small streetside terrace where you can sit and quietly enjoy your coffee in the sun.

Interior of a Leuven cafe with coffee bags and FILTER and ESPRESSO labels.
Whimsical indoor cafe mural with dark banquette and round tables in Leuven.
Shelves filled with brown ONAN brand coffee bags at Onan Leuven.
Terrace of ONAN Roasting & Blending cafe in Leuven with customers.
Coffee drink and water on a wooden tray at Koffie Onan Leuven.
Tested in 2023

Onan Coffee & Tea

Parijsstraat 28, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the brand’s website

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Madmum Coffee roastery & bar

This brand has several locations in Leuven, and we tried the one right next to our hotel on Tiensestraat. They are also roasters, and you can buy their coffee on site as well. It’s a really lovely spot for breakfast and/or an à la carte brunch. The venue also features a fairly large outdoor terrace in front of the establishment for sunny days.

Madmum Coffee Leuven products: beans, cups, teapots, and packaged coffee.
Interior of Madmum Coffee Leuven cafe with wooden table and banquettes.
Madmum Coffee Leuven roasting interior with machine and bags of Azahar beans.
Terrace of Madmum Coffee Roasters in Leuven with tables and chairs on the street.
Interior of Madmum cafe in Leuven with blue espresso machine and counter.
Hearty breakfast in Leuven: crêpes, pastry, muesli, and drinks.
Hearty breakfast in Leuven: pancakes, caffe latte, juice, and fruit bowl.
Leuven breakfast: caffe latte, orange juice, iced drink, and brioche.
Cozy Madmum Coffee Leuven lounge corner with water pump and brick wall.
Tested in 2023

Madmum Coffee roastery & bar

Tiensestraat 38, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the brand’s website

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Noir Coffee Bar

We also really liked this wonderful spot featuring cozy, vintage decor. They serve very high-quality, traceable seed-to-cup coffees. Their coffees are actually quite renowned. Perfect for a break during your wanderings through the city.

Two cups of coffee, a latte art and an espresso, on a wooden table in Leuven.
Street musicians and cobblestone cafe terraces in Leuven.
Interior of Noir Leuven cafe with barista behind the wooden counter.
Cup of café au lait with latte art on a wooden table, Leuven.
Red table and wooden chair in front of a black-and-white comic-style mural wall in Leuven.
Tested in 2023

Noir Coffee Bar

Naamsestraat 49, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the venue’s website

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My selection of restaurants in Leuven

Below, I offer a selection of restaurants that I tested in Leuven during my trip in 2017, and then again in 2023.

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Where to have lunch in a former brewery in Leuven? De Hoorn

This listed building, housed in a former brewery, is home to a restaurant (where we had dinner), a bar, a brasserie, and rooms for events or receptions. The De Hoorn brasserie developed in the 15th century to become one of the city’s major enterprises. In 1708, Sébastien Artois became master brewer at De Hoorn, bought the brewery 9 years later, and gave it his name. The very first Stella Artois was brewed here in 1926 as a Christmas beer. It is therefore a place steeped in history. You can still see the old brew house as well as the copper brewing vats. The brewery is located in the city’s former industrial area, the Vaartkom district (easily accessible on foot from the city center).

We tasted: the house cocktails (between €8.50 and €11); for a starter to share, the sweet potato fries with za’atar (€9.50); for the main course, the vol-au-vent (€32) which didn’t really convince me personally; the hot chicken schnitzel (€21); for dessert, the grilled peach with lavender (€12.50).

Facade of De Hoorn restaurant in Leuven with people on the lawn.
Trendy Leuven restaurant interior with large portraits of rock icons against a window backdrop.
Modern and lively interior of De Hoorn restaurant in Leuven with seated customers.
Modern interior of De Hoorn restaurant in Leuven with concrete pillars and customers.
Table set with a floral Stella Artois 0.0% bottle, salt and pepper shakers, wood.
Restaurant De Hoorn Leuven modern interior with long wooden tables and pendant lights.
Fresh salad with green vegetables, garnish, and dark dressing in a Leuven restaurant.
Dessert with grilled peaches, cream, and pink cotton candy at De Hoorn Leuven restaurant.
Smiling woman eating a gourmet meal in Leuven.
Sweet potato fries topped with sprouts and sauce, Resto De Hoorn Leuven.
Mint and lime cocktails with a bottle of Belgian beer in Leuven.
Tested in 2023

Restaurant De Hoorn

Sluisstraat 79, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to have a casual dinner in Leuven? De Optimist

This place is perfect for sharing original dishes inspired by flavors from around the world, or just for having a drink. The venue also features a lovely terrace in the inner courtyard (featuring a piece by our “friend” Bisser, whom I mentioned in the street-art paragraph). The place offers plates of various sizes to share and combine with friends, along with a nice selection of Belgian beers if you’re into that!

Waitress bringing drinks to a lively bar in Leuven.
De Optimist Leuven terrace with a mural of a smiling artisan and people seated.
Outdoor cafe terrace in Leuven with customers and OMÉr menu displayed.
Terrace of De Optimist cafe in Leuven with customers, bicycles, and plants.
Photographer in front of the
Woman enjoying a beer with tapas in Leuven.
Beers from Brasserie de la Senne and various dishes on a wooden table.

De Optimist

Vismarkt 7, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Prices: small plate €9 / medium plate €18 / large plate €27

Link to the venue’s website

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Where to have a plant-based lunch in Leuven? Bar Jérôme (closed)

This lovely spot used to offer creative, healthy fusion dishes with a great vegan and vegetarian selection (among others) and a sharing-plate concept. The service was also extremely friendly (partially French-speaking), but there was no menu in English or French (only in Dutch). The venue also featured a nice terrace out front for sunny days, and Faustine and I really enjoyed their homemade non-alcoholic drinks. Bar Jérôme unfortunately closed its doors at the end of September 2024.

Lebanese meal on a wooden table, Bar Jérôme Leuven, with flowers and glasses.
Wooden table with a flower vase and decorated shelf at Bar Jérôme Leuven.
Fresh drinks and flowers in Leuven, possibly Bar Jérôme.
Modern cafe interior in Leuven with banquette, wooden tables, and bright atmosphere.
Terrace of Bar Jérôme and Convento Food in Leuven with people seated.
Oriental meal in Leuven: stuffed flatbread, falafels, fries, and flowers.
Pink peonies in a glass vase on a restaurant table in Leuven.
Interior of a modern cafe-bar with wooden tables and colorful chairs in Leuven.
Tested in 2023

Bar Jérôme (closed)

Wandelingstraat 10, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

The restaurant closed at the end of September 2024; the team continues its catering business under the name Laura Massa

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Where to eat Italian in Leuven? Baracca

This Italian restaurant offers quite a few creative dishes to share, crispy pizzas, and very nice signature cocktails. The venue is quite large and offers different areas, including two terraces (one at the front and a smaller one at the back of the establishment), but unfortunately both were full when we arrived, so we sat inside.

Green cocktail with basil garnish on a granite table at Baracca Leuven
Leuven restaurant interior with set table, banquette, and industrial vibe.
Baracca Leuven industrial-style interior decor with wall-mounted metal skull.
Gourmet plate with vegetables, white sauce, fresh herbs, and nut crumbs at Baracca Leuven.
Rustic interior of Baracca restaurant in Leuven with counter and tables.
Asparagus risotto served in a bowl, with a silver spoon present.
Adding sauce to a fennel salad and grilled toasts in a Leuven restaurant.
Chocolate dessert with BARACCA lettering on a black plate, Leuven.
Terrace of Baracca restaurant in Leuven with customers and sign.
Tested in 2023

Baracca

Tiensestraat 34, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to have a bistronomic lunch in Leuven? Zarza

A wonderful spot that we really loved back in 2017 (run by chef Gert Cordemans), featuring very stylish decor and carefully crafted plates. The menu changes with the seasons. Please note that in the evening, the restaurant only offers a 5- or 6-course tasting menu.

Table set with S.Pellegrino in a Leuven restaurant.
Scallops with egg yolks and herbs, a dish at Zarza restaurant in Leuven.
Grilled fish fillet, purée, and vegetables served on a black plate.
Gourmet salmon steak with sliced onions and mousse at Zarza restaurant in Leuven.
Facade of Zarza restaurant in Leuven with passers-by and an autumn tree.
Tested in 2017

Zarza

Bondgenotenlaan 92, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Evening tasting menu: 5 courses for €90 or 6 courses (with cheese) for €105

Weekday lunch: starter + main €47 / starter + main + dessert €59

Link to the restaurant’s website

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Where to have a gourmet dinner in Leuven? Restaurant D’Artagnan

This gourmet restaurant, located in downtown Leuven, is run by chef Ernest Kalse, who offers fresh cuisine featuring quality products. We also tried it back in 2017.

Private dining room in Leuven set for an elegant evening dinner.
Smoked salmon, caviar roe, blinis, and cream on a white plate in Leuven.
Dish of roasted and pulled meat with brown sauce and vegetables in Leuven.
Restaurant sweet treat in Leuven: mousse, blackberry, apple, and caramel.
Tested in 2017

Restaurant D’Artagnan

Naamsestraat 72, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Lunch: €45 (2 courses) / €58 (3 courses)

Dinner: €68 menu (3 courses, weekdays) / D’Artagnan menu at €78 or €90

Link to the restaurant’s website

Where to stay in Leuven?

Below, I invite you to discover the two accommodations (a design hotel and an aparthotel) that we had the opportunity to test during our stays in Leuven with my favorite photographer and my friend Faustine.

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Where to stay in the city center? M-Street art lodging

This accommodation, opened in spring 2023, is ideally located right in the city center and offers 15 different art-themed rooms. There is no reception (and no breakfast service either) and it features a self check-in system, which is quite convenient. You can also store your luggage in lockers on the hotel’s ground floor if you arrive before check-in (from 3 PM) or if you want to leave your bags on departure day after check-out time. Another plus: the accommodation is about a 15-minute walk from the train station, making it very easy to reach.

The decor of our room (No. 203) revolved around the theme of street-art and was created by Leuven artist Bisser, whose works we also saw extensively during our street-art tour of the city (which I mentioned earlier in the article). Our room was also very quiet, as it faces the back of the building overlooking a rather peaceful inner courtyard/garden. Finally, the bedding was very comfortable, which is always an important point to note.

Modern chandelier near a staircase with a black banister and geometric wall in Leuven.
Red hotel hallway with door reading
Building facade in Leuven covered in lush vegetation above the Street Art Lodging entrance.
Bisser street art near a door and an evacuation map in Leuven.
Hotel room in Leuven overlooking the city rooftops through an open window.
Hotel room in Leuven with quirky wall illustrations near the bed.
Leuven street art: smiling character reaching for a black light switch.
Modern hotel bathroom with sink and shower in Leuven.
Leuven street art: character pointing near an air conditioning thermostat.
Tested in 2023

M-Street art lodging

Muntstraat 32, 3000 Leuven, Belgium

Prices: starting from €125 per room for 2 people in 2023 (depending on the season)

Book your stay → For a more transparent world…If you book through this link, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's a way to support our work and future reports.

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Where to stay near the station? Park Inn by Radisson Leuven

Located right next to the Leuven train station, this large hotel (133 rooms) can be extremely convenient if you are traveling to Leuven by train. Plus, you can also easily walk to the city center from the hotel. Let me reassure you right away: although very close to the railway tracks, this hotel is well-insulated and very quiet, and you can trust me on that given how super picky (to say the least…) I am on the subject. The breakfast buffet is also quite well-stocked with quality products.

Twin hotel room with a female traveler looking out the window in Leuven.
Breakfast buffet with bread and croissants at the Park Inn by Radisson in Leuven.
Modern hotel bar in Leuven with a black counter and relief wall decor.
Breakfast in Leuven in a modern restaurant with wooden pillars.
Sculptural metal chandelier in Leuven, interior of Hotel Truc.
Tested in 2017

Park Inn by Radisson Leuven

Martelarenlaan 36, 3010 Leuven, Belgium

The little extra: free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel

Rates: starting from 120 € per night

Book your stay → For a more transparent world…If you book through this link, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. A great way to support our work and future reports.

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Many thanks to Visit Flanders, Thalys, and Visit Leuven for these two invitations and for their warm welcome!

Blue and white bicycle parked in front of a red brick facade in Leuven.

I hope all this has made you want to discover Louvain / Leuven in Flanders, and if you also have your own favorite spots and tips for this destination, feel free to share them in the comments!

Bicycles parked on a cobbled street in the Grand Béguinage of Leuven.

Find all my articles about Belgium (Flanders and Wallonia) below:
⇒ All my articles about Belgium
⇒ All my articles about Flanders

GENERAL INFO ABOUT BELGIUM
⇒ Brussels the capital
⇒ Belgian gastronomy
⇒ Bed and breakfasts in Belgium

MY ARTICLES ON FLANDERS
⇒ Bruges
⇒ Ghent
⇒ Antwerp
⇒ The Belgian Coast and Ostend

MY ARTICLES ON WALLONIA
⇒ The Gaume Province

Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez and Melle Bon Plan
Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's permission required before any use
Tags: BelgiumFlanderstravel
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