We set off to discover Soissons in the middle of July 2024, though the weather felt more like a rainy October. That didn’t stop us from doing plenty of things, as you’ll see… The city of Soissons is located in the Aisne department in the heart of the Hauts-de-France region, in the former Picardy. The Soissons area is a land steeped in history that also offers plenty of green spaces and nature. Soissons, the capital of this territory, whose ancient name was Augusta Suessionum, currently has about 28,000 inhabitants, and 52,000 in the greater Soissons area. It is also the ideal destination for a weekend getaway and rejuvenation for Parisians, as the city is located just 1 hour from the capital! (I also recommend discovering Chartres at the same distance).
Practical Information
- Getting there by train: count on about 1 hour 10 minutes from Paris by TER (price: around €20 one way).
- Getting around in and around Soissons: you can use the Cyclovis self-service electric bikes, which are available at more than 18 stations in the heart of the city and neighboring towns (rates: €1 for 30 minutes and €6 daily rate for 6 hours of rental) / you can also use TAD (Transport on Demand), a public transport system in the area that notably allows travel to Septmonts or Pommiers.
Table of Contents
What to see and do in Soissons?
Soissons is at the heart of history with its rich Merovingian past, as it is the cradle of the Kingdom of the Franks with the famous legend of Clovis and the “Vase of Soissons” (recounted by Gregory of Tours in his “History of the Franks” in the 6th century) regarding the king’s terrible revenge and authority, which shapes the city’s identity. In fact, Soissons has been labeled a “City of Art and History” since the 80s. The city center of Soissons was 80% destroyed during the First World War and rebuilt in the 20s in Art Deco style. You will, moreover, see traces of this architecture in several buildings in the city. The city itself is very reasonably sized, and you can easily walk around the city center without needing a car.
Below, as usual, I offer a small selection of things to do and see if you come for a stay in Soissons or the region. Don’t miss a trip to the Town Hall gardens, which are beautifully flowered in the summer season.
Grand Soissons Tourist Office
16 place Fernand Marquigny 02200 Soissons
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Visiting the Saint-Léger Museum of Art and History
This museum, founded in 1851, houses the municipal collections that were initially installed within the Town Hall. Since 1933, the museum has presented its collections in the former Saint-Léger abbey, from which it takes its name. Indeed, the collections suffered greatly from the bombardments of the First World War, which decided their transfer to the former church of the abbey. This encyclopedic museum inherited from the 19th century is also linked to the territory (Soissons and the Soissonais area) and notably preserves many local archaeological objects that are unfortunately not visible at the moment, because the exhibition rooms for these archaeological collections are under construction. The fine arts department, recently renovated, presents beautiful works (paintings, sculptures, treasure of the Soissons cathedral) in two dedicated rooms (1200-1800 room and 1800-1940 room) on the first floor of the museum. Moreover, the Municipal Library (which we were told is very pretty) is still present within the walls of the abbey.
This Museum of Art and History, which presents fine arts collections but also heritage and history of the Soissonais territory, is today completed by the Arsenal Saint-Jean (see paragraph below), which allowed the introduction of contemporary art into the collections, and by the Center for Archaeological Conservation and Studies (CCEA) inaugurated in 2013, which preserves significant lapidary collections, ceramics, and other archaeological objects.
The tip: the exterior part, the former cloister of the abbey, as well as the church and the crypt of the Saint-Léger abbey, are accessible free of charge during the museum’s opening hours.
Saint-Léger Museum of Art and History
2 rue de la Congrégation 20200 Soissons
Rates: €3 full price / €2 reduced price / €7 guided tour / free for under 18s and job seekers + for everyone every 1st Sunday of the month
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Discovering the contemporary art exhibits at the Arsenal
The Arsenal Saint-Jean is a space for temporary contemporary art exhibitions linked to the Saint-Léger museum that I just told you about above, and which has been open to the public since 1995. The venue regularly highlights the contemporary collections of the Saint-Léger museum through temporary exhibitions.
During our visit, we were able to discover the temporary exhibition “History of Weaving (1965-2024). François Rouan“, which takes place at the Arsenal museum, at the foot of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. This exhibition was set up in partnership with Frac Picardie and the Cité internationale de la langue française in Villers-Cotterêts. It presents the works of François Rouan, an artist who lives and works near Senlis in Oise, and it retraces 50 years of “weavings”.
Arsenal Saint-Jean, Soissons Museum
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes / 11 rue Saint-Jean 02200 Soissons
Temporary exhibition “History of Weaving (1965-2024). François Rouan” from June 28 to October 20, 2024
Rates for combined visit with Saint-Léger Museum: €5 full price / €3 reduced price / free for under 18s and job seekers + for everyone every 1st Sunday of the month
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Visiting the Saint-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey
The Saint-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey is truly the most emblematic site for the people of Soissons, with its spires reaching 75 meters in height and marking the city’s skyline. It is an open site and is therefore a place for strolling (for your information, dogs on leashes are allowed) for residents, as it is located right in the heart of the city.
This abbey, founded in the 11th century, was one of the richest of the Middle Ages. It is a double comital (by knight Hugues de Château-Thierry) and episcopal foundation. It was installed on the site of an ancient Gallic and Carolingian necropolis. At the end of the 12th century and the beginning of the 13th century, there was a major reconstruction program to transition from the Romanesque abbey to a vast ensemble in the Gothic style. In the 14th century, the abbey was completely closed with fortifications during the Hundred Years’ War. Today, you can still see the standing towers of the Saint Jean Baptiste abbey church (which reaches 75 and 80 meters in height) and a part of the Gothic cloister. On the western massif, you can also admire no less than 300 years of evolution in sculpture. Also to be visited: the monks’ refectory, the cellar, and the outbuildings.
The site was then intentionally destroyed in the 19th century by the army, as it was transformed into a military site starting in 1818 and partially dismantled after that. The complex was also heavily damaged during the First World War. The city took over full management of the site in 1969 and opened it to free public access starting in 1995. You can therefore discover the abbey on a self-guided visit or follow a paid guided tour, as we did.
Don’t miss: don’t hesitate to take a look at the CIAP (Center for Interpretation of Architecture and Heritage) which is installed at the foot of the abbey’s facade and is a place for raising awareness and information about the architecture and heritage of the city.
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey
Place de l’Abbé Breuil 02200 Soissons
Guided tours in May and June every Saturday at 4 PM and from July 6 to August 30 every day at 4 PM
Price: €5 / free for under 12s
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Visiting the Saint-Gervais Saint-Protais Cathedral
This cathedral is one of the 7 cathedrals of Picardy. It was the witness of 3 periods of the Gothic style and its construction, which began in the 12th century, was initiated by Bishop Nivelon de Quierzy. You can see the magnificent rose window, restored in 2021, but also very interesting paintings, such as an “Adoration of the Shepherds” by Rubens, a major Flemish painter.
The tourist office also offers several guided tours of the cathedral:
- Climbing the Cathedral Tower: After climbing the 350 steps of the tower, you discover a magnificent panorama of the city from above. Be careful, this visit is not accessible to everyone as it is a steep climb.
- See the Rose up close…: The restoration project of the rose window was completed during the winter of 2021. It fell during the storm of 2017. Possibility to see the rose window up close thanks to these tours. This will no longer be possible once the scaffolding is gone…
Saint-Gervais Saint-Protais Cathedral
Place du Cardinal Binet 02200 Soissons
Free and open access during site opening hours
Guided tours in May and June every Sunday and from July 6 to August 30 every day
Guided tour rates: from €3 / free for under 12s
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Visiting the Saint-Médard crypt
This exceptional site is that of the former royal abbey of Saint-Médard, which spanned nearly 18 hectares in the time of Chlothar I. Founded in the 6th century, it was in this abbey that Pippin the Short was crowned King of the Franks, thus giving birth to the Carolingian dynasty. The first basilica of the abbey, built from 560 and of which no trace remains, was a tribute to Saint Médard by Chlothar (son of Clovis). The relics of Saint Sebastian would later be transported to the abbey, which became a place of pilgrimage. The site was also an important place for political gatherings until the 13th century.
Today, the site is the property of the municipality of Soissons and is classified as a Historic Monument. There is almost nothing left of the abbey above ground, in any case, but you can still visit the crypt (only on guided tours, however), which is 33 meters long and housed the tombs of two kings of France, Chlothar and Sigebert, respectively son and grandson of Clovis, thus becoming the necropolis of the Carolingian dynasty. If you want to discover more about this abbey, you can see the 3D reconstructions made by archaeologists and historians (as there are still excavations on this site) in collaboration with the Saint Médard Association.
Saint-Médard Abbey
Place Saint-Médard 02200 Soissons
Guided tours in May and June every Saturday at 2:30 PM and from July 6 to August 30 every day at 2:30 PM
Price: €5 / free for under 12s
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Setting out to discover the C215 street art works
Following a collaboration with the city hall, the street artist C215, alias Christian Guémy, created 25 stencils scattered around the city during a residency. These are portraits of great figures from the history of France and Soissons like Louise Michel, Chlothar I, Joan of Arc, or even Rubens. You can set out to discover these works by walking around the city.
C215 street-art trail
Ask for a free “discovery tour” at the tourist office
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Walking along the banks of the Aisne
The banks of the Aisne offer a very nice place to walk along the river, from the city center to the lock. I recommend taking a walk there if you want a quiet little stroll. If you want an aperitif by the water, you can even go to the Les Frérots guinguette (rue Ernest Ringuier, near the river station).
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Taking a boat trip on the Aisne
The Les Voiles du Soissonnais association, located at the Pommiers nautical base, about 3km from Soissons, allows you to discover the territory along the water that winds through the Soissonais area. It offers several types of rental: electric boat, river cruiser, canoe, pedal boat, rowboat, dragon boat… For our part, we took a short trip in an electric boat (you can fit up to 5 people in it). You can rent the electric boat for either 30 minutes or 1 hour.
Les Voiles du Soissonnais Association
Rue de la Vallée 022000 Pommiers
From May to September
Rates: between €20 and €30 for electric boats
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Relaxation at the Les Bains du Lac aquatic complex
Located at the exit of Soissons, this aquatic complex is installed in a building with contemporary architecture, which precisely offers a stunning view of the lake that stretches below the complex. It offers 2 areas (accessible separately or jointly depending on the packages): the balneotherapy area (reserved for those over 18) and the fun area with a large sports pool of 625 m2 with 10 lanes, the pentagliss with its 4 lanes for rushing down the 30-meter slope, and an area for children.
We tested both areas and especially the balneo with its 110 m2 pool which offers water at over 30°C and is equipped with massage jets, water cascades, aquabiking… There is also a jacuzzi, two saunas, and two hammams, as well as an outdoor area with lounge chairs that allow you to enjoy the panorama. Unfortunately, we were only able to take photos of the place empty before the customers arrived, so I cannot show you photos “in situation”.
My recommendations : be careful, we were very surprised, but unlike the majority of spa and balneo areas we have tested so far, here you are not provided with a towel, so you will have to bring your own; remember to also bring flip-flops to move around the site between the areas; cell phones are also forbidden in the balneo area.
Les Bains du Lac
Allée des Bains du Lac 02200 Mercin-et-Vaux
Balneo rates (which also gives access to the fun area): €17 adult / €15 for local residents
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Soissons in lights
During part of the year, at nightfall, 5 emblematic monuments of the city (Saint-Léger abbey; Town Hall; Saint-Pierre au Parvis church; the Arquebuse pavilion; the City of Music and Dance) come to life in the heart of a sound and light show. An opportunity to stroll through the city to discover the different stories of 5 narrators (Soissons figures) about the history of Soissons. You can pick up a map with this nocturnal route at the Tourist Office.
Soissons en Lumières
From May to the end of September, at nightfall on Fridays, Saturdays, and public holidays (+ Thursdays and Sundays during holidays)
Free
What to see and do in the surroundings of Soissons?
Getaway to Septmonts
In this picturesque little village, located 7km from Soissons at the gates of the lush Crise valley, is a magnificent monument: the Donjon de Septmonts. It was the former summer residence of the bishops of Soissons since the early Middle Ages. With its 45 meters in height, this 14th-century keep dominates the surrounding landscape. At the time of its construction, it included 7 floors. You can also climb the keep, which was both a dwelling and a guard tower, visit the interior (there are a few rooms), and go all the way to the top to admire the view of the surrounding countryside. And for information, the name of Septmonts supposedly comes from Pope John VIII who allegedly named the place this because it reminded him of Rome, a city also surrounded by 7 hills (I admit I didn’t really see the resemblance, but oh well…).
After visiting the keep, you can go for a walk in the Arboretum, a 4.5-hectare park that contains more than 100 species from all over the world and is divided into geographical plots. Notably, there is an orchard of 50 apple trees installed in the former garden of the bishops and also vines, which recall the local winemaking heritage. It was laid out in the park of the Septmonts keep in 1998. You can also picnic in the park.
The tip: if you want to visit the Saint André church of Septmonts, you must ask for the keys at the town hall (we didn’t have time to go, but that’s the info we were given).
How to get there from Soissons?: if you don’t have a car on-site, you can go by electric bike (because there is quite a bit of elevation gain) from Soissons by borrowing the Cyclovis self-service bikes that I told you about at the beginning of the article.
Donjon de Septmonts
Place de la Mairie 02200 Septmonts
Free and open access to the site
Open every day from 02/05 to 09/30 and on weekends only the rest of the year
My top spots in Soissons
As usual, you will find below my selection of top spots in Soissons (accommodation, shop, and restaurants) that we had the opportunity to test during our stay with the favorite photographer. These addresses often offer the chance to discover local products and some regional specialties to taste if you come to the Soissonais. The market (place Fernand Marquigny) takes place in Soissons inside the covered market hall and under the awnings that surround it on Wednesday and Saturday mornings (from 7:30/8 AM to 12:30/1 PM). You will also find a shop for local products at the Tourist Office.
Local specialties to test: the Soissons bean (IGP since 2023), which has been present in the Aisne department for more than 2 centuries and is today produced in the Ailette valley to the south of Aisne (to test: the Soissons bean with goose fat to snack on as an appetizer or the Soissons bean jam from Les Jardins de Marie); local beers from “Villa les Roses”; the region is also rich in beekeepers and therefore in honey; regarding cheese, the specialty is more goat cheese.
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Where to buy local products in Soissons? Les Fermes du Coin
This shop located right in the heart of the city is run by a group of local producers and farmers. You will find fresh seasonal vegetables, meats raised just a stone’s throw away, and plenty of other products like the famous Soissons beans. We did a little shopping to take back in our suitcases and I recommend this address if you want to do the same.
Les Fermes du Coin
47 rue Saint-Martin 02200 Soissons
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Where to eat lunch in Soissons? Restaurant Le Bouche à Oreille
This address is a very classic bistro with a friendly and very welcoming atmosphere. The dishes are simple but honest. I, however, regretted that there were not really any local drinks on the menu, it’s a bit of a shame. The address also offers a terrace for sunny days.
To taste: for starters, we had the poached egg with a Soissons bean cream (€9); for the main course, we wanted to get their specialty, the Soissonnaise rougail (€17) but unfortunately there was none left… We fell back on the veal chop with Maroilles sauce (€22) and the cheese salad (€19).
Restaurant Le BAO (Bouche à Oreille)
28 rue des Cordeliers 02200 Soissons
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday
Price: starters between €9 and €18 / main courses between €17 and €29 / “Fourchette” menu at €32 with starter + main course + dessert / or “Couteau” menu at €39 with starter + main course + dessert
The tip: “Menu à la Une” served Tuesday through Saturday only for lunch with starter + main course + dessert €21 / starter + main course or main course + dessert €19 / main course + drink + coffee €17
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A rooftop in Soissons? Restaurant La Passerelle
This very beautiful address with refined Prohibition-style decor has a very beautiful rooftop with a stunning view of the Aisne. It was there that we had lunch, and I must say the setting was really very nice. On the plates, you find well-made homemade cuisine with fresh and seasonal products. The service is also very friendly and pleasant.
To taste: homemade salmon gravlax (€11.50); veal quasi cooked at low temperature with mushrooms (€21); guinea fowl supreme braised with crayfish (€21); for dessert, strawberry soup with Namelaka cream (€8.50); discovery of a beer from a local brewery Les 3 Loups (€6).
Restaurant La Passerelle
2, rue de la Bannière 02200 Soissons
Open Monday through Saturday
Price: starters between €9.50 and €11.50 / main courses between €17 and €37 / desserts between €8.50 and €9.50
The tip: Daily lunch menu (every lunch from Monday to Friday) with starter + main course or main course + dessert at €21.90 and starter + main course + dessert at €25.90 / “La Passerelle” lunch menu (every lunch from Monday to Saturday) with starter + main course or main course + dessert at €26.90 and starter + main course + dessert at €31.90
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Where to go for a drink and eat a burger in Soissons? Le Havana
This address is a great place to go out in Soissons. For one, there is a great atmosphere, and the bar offers a nice selection of beers (notably Belgian) and also delicious burgers (price €18.90) and also hot dogs (price between €14.90 and €15.90). In the evening, there is entertainment in the bar and, if it is not raining, in the street in front of the address. We really liked this address, which I highly recommend to you.
Le Havana
10 Rue Charpentier, 02200 Soissons
Price: main courses between €14.90 and €19.90 / platter to share €16.90 / street food between €14.90 and €18.90
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A hotel restaurant in Soissons? Le Relais des Vignes at Best Western
This 4-star hotel with a pool, built in 2011, is ideally located not far from the Saint-Jean-des-Vignes abbey. We didn’t stay there, but we went to dine there on the evening of July 14th to enjoy their braséro evening, because we could see the fireworks (+ laser show) very well from the terrace of the restaurant Le Relais des Vignes. The accommodation also seems to be a very good option for staying in Soissons during a short stay.
Best Western Plus Hôtel des Francs
Restaurant Le Relais des Vignes
62 Boulevard Jeanne d’Arc, 02200 Soissons
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Where to stay in Soissons? Chez Moi B&B
The 2 guest rooms of this address are located above a cool decor shop. They are very well decorated, with a lot of taste, and the bedding is extremely comfortable. The accommodation offers an “O Naturel” room for 2 people (where we stayed) and a suite for 4 people. My only small drawback is that the house is in front of an extremely busy street and despite the double glazing, I found that we could hear the noise of the cars a little too loudly for my taste (but I am very sensitive to this type of noise pollution, because it prevents me from sleeping). Maybe the suite that faces the other way is quieter… If you are also sensitive to this, I recommend booking the suite instead of the room. Otherwise, it is a high-quality charming accommodation, and the hosts are extremely welcoming.
The little extra: the B&B benefits from a corner with tea, coffee, and water available for guests, which is very practical.
Chez Moi B&B
2 rue Neuve Saint Martin 02200 Soissons
Room rates from €78 for the “O Naturel” room and €89 for the “Suite des Sens”
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Practical questions
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Thanks to the Soissons Tourist Office and the Grand Soissons for organizing this great stay to discover the Soissonais area.
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to visit Soissons, and if you too have your own favorite spots and advice for this destination, do not hesitate to share them in the comments below!
Photo credits: Nicolas Diolez Photos are not royalty-free, photographer's authorization is required before any use
