I don’t know the Jura very well (nor its wines, for that matter), but I had already heard of the Percée du Vin Jaune before going for the first time in 2018. A close friend of mine lived in Dijon for a long time, and I had joined her twice for the Burgundy wine festival, the very lovely Saint Vincent Tournante (what a funny name!). That’s how she told me, “Next time, we have to do the Percée du Vin Jaune; it’s also a lot of fun.”
So, when I received an invitation in 2018 to discover this wine event, I accepted immediately because I was curious to experience it and attend the 21st edition of this celebration, which took place in the village of l’Etoile. Not to mention the fact that, as you know, I really love wine and its history, and I am always eager to learn more about the subject… And if there is one thing I realized during that Jura weekend, it is that I didn’t know the wines of this region at all, much to my regret…
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Table of Contents
The Wines of the Jura
A quick overview
The Jura has a northern vineyard that spans 1,950 hectares, with a climate that experiences very sharp temperature variations. It rests on terrain dating back to the Secondary or Jurassic era (150 million years ago). It might seem trivial, yet it is the unique characteristics of these soils (in particular) that give Jura wines their distinctive nature. Incidentally, the Jura vineyard was the first to obtain the very first French AOC in 1936.
200 producers share this richness, and 5 grape varieties are used on these lands to produce red and rosé wines, white wines, Vin Jaune, sparkling wines (Crémant du Jura), sweet wines (Vin de Paille), and mistelles (Macvin du Jura). Today, the appellation covers about 2,000 hectares and possesses 4 “geographic” AOCs, as well as 3 “product” AOCs: Macvin (a traditional wine-based liqueur/aperitif known since the 14th century), Crémant, and Marc du Jura.
The 4 geographic appellations:
- Arbois
- Château-Chalon
- l’Etoile
- Côtes du Jura
I therefore find this festival a wonderful opportunity to discover the wines of the Jura and the mystery of the Vin Jaune, as the locals like to call it…
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Vin Jaune : a dry white wine, aged for 6 years and 3 months
Vin Jaune is made exclusively with the Savagnin grape variety through a specific production process. After fermentation, the wine is kept for six years and three months in barrels. During aging, a yeast veil forms on the surface of the wine, protecting it from oxidation. It is this phenomenon that gives Vin Jaune its typical and unique aromas.
The important part of the secret of Vin Jaune (which, it is true, is a wine with very particular notes) is the veil. It took me a while to understand what people were talking about… The locals say very beautifully that the wines “take the veil”… I like that expression… Below, I tried to photograph this famous veil that forms on the surface of the wine in the barrels. Over time, this gray, then white veil forms, thereby protecting the wine from the air. During the aging process, evaporation naturally occurs, which is what we call “the angel’s share.”
After aging for about 6 years, the wine is bottled in a specific container: the clavelin (a 62-centiliter bottle). It can be enjoyed immediately or kept for many years. Vin Jaune develops magnificent aromas of walnuts, flowers, and green apple, along with a beautiful golden color.
Average price of a bottle of Vin Jaune: €30
Must-try Jura wines:
- Domaine Jean Bourdy (biodynamic winery)
- Discover the Crémants du Jura (sparkling wines)
- Domaine de la Pinte
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The 2018 Percée du Vin Jaune Edition
Normally, this festival takes place every year at about the same time (early February), except in 2017 when it was not organized. In 2018, it took place on the weekend of February 3-4 in the small village of L’Etoile. The name of this village comes from its five main hillocks, suggesting a five-pointed star surrounding the village basin. Below, I invite you to relive this 2018 edition of the Percée du Vin Jaune through the activities and discoveries I made that year.
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Attending the opening dinner (industry banquet) at Jura Parc in Lons-le-Saunier
This banquet takes place the evening before the first day of the Percée and gathers industry figures, journalists (and influencers), and officials around a convivial banquet and a gourmet menu.
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Visiting cellars and tasting rooms
Cellars and tasting rooms are open from 12:00 PM to 6:00 PM throughout the duration of the Percée du Vin Jaune. One of the pleasures of this festival is obviously, as in most wine-related festivals, to tour producers, meet different winemakers, and taste their productions.
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The Château l’Etoile cellar
This cellar, located in the heart of the village of l’Etoile, practices sustainable viticulture, and it is very pleasant to wander through its vineyard, which is situated just below the tasting room.
Château l'Etoile cellar 994 rue Bouillod 39570 L’Etoile Price of Vin Jaune at the l'Etoile cellar: €25.50 per bottle
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The Fruitière de Voiteur cellar
This cellar offers wines from Château-Chalon, a belvedere village and high place of the Jura’s wine history. The Fruitière Vinicole de Voiteur, created in the late fifties, brings together about sixty winemakers for a total area of 80 hectares. Moreover, if you ever pass through the region at a time other than the Percée, you can still stop by to visit this cooperative and its facilities.
Cave de la Fruitière de Voiteur 60 Route de Nevy, 39210 Voiteur
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Going for a walk in the vineyards
The perfect opportunity for a small bucolic stroll and also to take some pretty photos.
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Wandering the city streets
It’s an opportunity to enjoy musical entertainment, street performances, concerts, and sales of local produce and crafts… For those interested, there is also a vintage wine auction during the Percée du Vin Jaune to fill your cellar with somewhat rare bottles… On Sunday morning, you can also follow the mass and the induction ceremony of the Percée du Vin Jaune, as well as the “piercing” (opening) of the latest vintage (2011 during this 2018 festival).
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Practical Information and Tips for the Percée
It is important to know that during the Percée, shuttles and buses serve the site continuously. So, if you don’t want to take your car (it’s often safer), it’s entirely possible!
2018 Rates
- Day Pass: €20 /person (includes access to the site + 1 tasting glass + 10 tasting tickets)
- Weekend Pass: €35 /person (includes access to the site + 2 tasting glasses + 10 tasting tickets per day)
Where to stay?
For my part, I stayed at the Hôtel Domaine du Val de Sorne (39570 Vernantois), which is well-known for its golf course.
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The 2020 Percée du Vin Jaune Edition
In 2020, I was back in the beautiful Jura region to experience my 2nd Percée du Vin Jaune after the 2018 edition I mentioned just above. This 23rd edition of the Percée du Vin Jaune took place on February 1-2, 2020, in Ruffey-sur-Seille, and it is the second time since the creation of the Percée (the 1st edition in Ruffey-sur-Seille was held there in 1997). In any case, I really liked the pretty little town of Ruffey-sur-Seille, which is crossed by the river La Seille. This village is incidentally a neighbor to that of l’Étoile, where the festival took place 2 years ago.
For information, the Percée attracts about 20,000 to 30,000 people at each edition, so it is quite an event that draws many people. Unfortunately, this edition of the Percée was particularly rainy… which is always a bit bothersome because most of the event takes place outdoors. In any case, despite the disastrous weather, I can tell you that with the jolly group of bloggers who accompanied me, we really had a great time!
To do during the Percée du Vin Jaune:
- the vintage wine auction on Saturday at 2:00 PM, a chance, for example, to buy a bottle from your birth year!
- the piercing (opening) of the 2013 vintage
- tours of cellars with tastings (nearly 54 producers)
- you can also attend the religious service “offering of the Vin Jaune” in the church of the host city on Sunday morning where the Vin Jaune is blessed.
- there are also quite a few stands with regional products to taste and/or buy to take home
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Practical Information and Tips for the Percée
It is important to know that during the Percée, shuttles and buses serve the site continuously. So, if you don’t want to take your car (it’s often safer), it’s entirely possible!
2020 Rates
- Day Pass: €20 /person (includes access to the site + 1 tasting glass + 10 tasting tickets)
- Weekend Pass: €35 /person (includes access to the site + 2 tasting glasses + 10 tasting tickets per day)
Where to dine in the area? Restaurant of the Hôtel/Spa Parenthèse
This 3-star hotel is undoubtedly one of the good addresses in the region, and I highly recommend its restaurant if you want to eat well.
Hôtel/Spa Parenthèse 186 chemin du Pin 39570 Chille
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Visiting a Bresse poultry farm, Ferme Roussel-Voisard
We took advantage of this weekend to make a gourmet visit to the Bresse region and discover a Bresse poultry farm. This AOC (since 1957) is quite unique and involves very demanding specifications. Bresse poultry (of the Gauloise de Bresse breed) is fed with corn and wheat produced in Bresse, but also with dairy products. However, they must find the rest of their protein diet on their own outdoors.
The chickens are raised for at least 4 months, 5 months for pullets, 9 months for capons (castrated chickens), and 7 months for turkeys. For the holidays, Bresse pullets, turkeys, and capons benefit from a preparation that optimizes the tenderness of their meat: “roulage” (the action of rolling and tightening the poultry after slaughter in a vegetable cloth corset). We had the chance to witness this Bressan tradition, and I must say it is truly very impressive.
Ferme Roussel-Voisard 1946, rue de Lamarre 39140 Chapelle Voland Bresse Jurassienne, France
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Thanks to the Rouge Granit agency and the Percée du Vin Jaune for these two invitations in 2018 and 2020!
I hope that with all this, I have made you want to discover the Percée du Vin Jaune and the wines of the Jura, and if you also have your own good addresses and tips for this event, don’t hesitate to share them in the comments!
Find all my travel articles below:
⇒ All my articles on Bourgogne-Franche-Comté
⇒ All my articles about wine
⇒ All my articles about wine tourism
MY WINE TOURISM DISCOVERIES
⇒ The Burgundy Wine Route
⇒ The Wines of Lirac
⇒ The Wines of Vacqueyras
⇒ Cognac, discovering the city and its alcohol
⇒ Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux
⇒ The Percée du Vin Jaune in the Jura
⇒ The Wines of Luberon
Photo credits: Melle Bon Plan Photos are not royalty-free, photographer authorization mandatory before any use
