Discovering the wines of Lirac

As you know, I am a wine lover and I adore doing wine tourism when I travel—which means visiting a region and discovering its specificities, especially through its traditions and wine production. Last year, I returned to the Avignon region (after my trip to Vacqueyras in 2017) to explore another one of the “Cru” appellations of the Cotes du Rhone: Lirac.

Lirac vineyard with wooded hills in the background under a blue sky.

Ancient stone cross in the Lirac vines under a blue sky.

Woman checking the ripeness of black grapes in a Lirac vineyard.

Lirac vineyard under a blue sky with vegetation and hills in the background.

Roll-up banner 'I heart Lirac Rhone wines' in front of a stone building.

Four smiling people in Lirac vests in an olive grove.

The AOC Lirac is located in the Gard department (in the Occitanie region) not far from the city of Avignon, on the right bank of the Rhone. This relatively lesser-known cru dates back to an old appellation from the 16th century. It is a small appellation, neighboring Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which spans just over 700 hectares of vines and produces all 3 colors of wine on a unique terroir: rose, white, and red. With primary grape varieties including: Grenache (black and white), Mourvedre, and Syrah. The main color produced in Lirac remains red, which accounts for 85% of total production.

Cotes du Rhone red and white grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier.

Classification of soils (granitic, limestone, stony, clay, sandy) in Cotes du Rhone vineyards.

Lirac vines on white pebble soil under a blue sky.

The appellation performs well internationally, with nearly 50% being exported. For the record, as early as the 18th century, winemakers in Lirac were authorized to stamp their barrels with the acronym “C.d.R” for “Coste du Rhone” to authenticate their wines. They are therefore at the origin of the much larger “Cotes du Rhone” appellation that we know today.

Visiting the village of Lirac

The small village of Lirac has a lot of charm, and a visit is a must if you are in the area. Don’t miss a stop at the Caveau de Lirac (Chemin des Chenes) for all the information on the appellation!

Old washhouse in Lirac near a Provencal house under a blue sky.

Lirac vineyard signage: barrel indicating Chateau de Segries.

Church facade with clock in Lirac, a village in the Gard.

Hiking in the Lirac vineyards under a blue sky.

I also recommend going for a walk in the vines located just behind the village. You can also hike up the trails (2km from Lirac) to the Grotte de la Sainte Baume, which is a very old place of pilgrimage.

Statue of the Virgin and Child in the cave of the village of Lirac.

Troglodyte chapel in Lirac with altar, cross, and folding chairs.

Visiting estates in the Lirac appellation

The best way to discover the appellation is obviously to tour the estates, and I have selected two to help you find your way.

Hikers visiting a Lirac vineyard with hills in the background.

Domaine Maby

The estate has been managed for 14 years by Richard Maby and his wife. It currently covers 60 hectares with wines produced using sustainable and integrated farming.

Domaine Maby

249 Rue Saint-Vincent, 30126 Tavel

Domaine Chateau de Manissy

The history of Domaine Manissy began in 1910 with the planting of vines by missionary brothers and in 1915 with the production of the first vintage.

Carved wooden bottle rack with wines from Chateau de Manissy, Tavel, Lirac.

Chateau de Manissy Lirac wine bottles and an empty tasting glass.

Wine barrel engraved with chalk messages, Lirac estate.

Interior of stainless steel vinification tanks in a Lirac winery.

Today, the estate has 80 hectares of vines (across 4 appellations) which have been organic since 2009, with 20/25% in Lirac; the site also produces Tavel. The Domaine offers the possibility of a tour and tasting of wines produced on-site and hosts numerous events throughout the year.

Pink barrel marked MANISSY, likely at Domaine Chateau de Manissy.

'Primeur Weekend Chateau de Manissy' poster for November 17-18, 2018, featuring tastings.

Chateau de Manissy

Route de Roquemaure 30126 Tavel

My recommendations in the Lirac area

As usual, I offer a selection of great addresses that I was able to test during my short stay, which I highly recommend if you happen to be in the area.

Where to stay in Avignon? Les Jardins de Baracane

This charming bed and breakfast is located in the heart of Avignon (right next to the Place des Corps Saints) in a 17th-century mansion. You feel a bit like you are at home in this establishment, and it is extremely pleasant.

Shaded courtyard with lounge chairs, table, and stone wall in Lirac area.

Old door number 12 in Lirac area, framed by stone walls and green plants.

All the rooms and the 2 suites face the garden, which is very appreciated. In any case, it is an address that I highly recommend if you are looking for accommodation in Avignon.

My room: the Majorelle room (19m2)

Interior staircase with antique chair, vintage photos, and Avignon Festival poster.

Hotel room interior with exposed beams, purple armchair, and colorful glass door.

Comfortable hotel room with exposed beams and a purple headboard.

Hotel room with unmade bed, exposed beams, and morning light.

Host hand holding a key in front of the 'Jardin de Majorelle' door, room 2.

The little extra: The lush garden at the back of the house, away from prying eyes, with a swimming pool at the very end. We were even able to have lunch outside in this beautiful garden despite the fact that it was around mid-October when I visited… Unbelievable!

Rustic outdoor breakfast with pastries, fruit, and jams near Lirac.

Shaded courtyard with tables and umbrellas in a lush garden near Lirac.

Woman having breakfast in a lush garden near Lirac.

Hidden, shaded pool with statue, perfect for cooling off near Lirac.

Shaded garden with white lounge chairs and lush vegetation near Lirac.

Set table and folding chairs in a lush garden near Lirac.

Pro tip: the owners provide refreshments (with or without alcohol) and hot drinks self-service in the kitchen (perfect for my little evening herbal tea since there was dried verbena from the garden)

Rustic interior with wooden door, window, and cherub bas-relief.

Les Jardins de Baracane

12 rue Baracane 84000 Avignon

Room rates: between €120 and €195 depending on the season / breakfast for an additional €15

Where to stay and eat? Entre Vigne et Garrigue

This sublime place belonging to the Chenet family is both a high-quality restaurant and a bed and breakfast, set in a very beautiful farmhouse built by the Carthusian monks in 1610.

Stone facade of a Lirac winery with outdoor furniture and garden.

Stone facade of a Lirac winery with potted olive tree.

Gravel and cobblestone path leading to a shaded terrace near Lirac.

Herb garden and misty lavender fields near a stone building in Lirac.

This high-end gourmet restaurant (1 star in the Michelin Guide) is run by chefs Serge & Maxime Chenet (father and son). Nestled in the former sheepfold, the cellar is located in the center of the restaurant and offers a very lovely choice of wines, especially from the region, of course.

Table set for two in front of a rustic stone wall in a restaurant.

Maby Lirac wine bottle, ice bucket, and corks in front of an abstract painting.

Table set with decorative fruits under a forest painting in a Lirac restaurant.

Three bottles of red, white, and rose wine from Domaine Maby Lirac.

Glass of Lirac rose wine in front of a colorful abstract painting.

Assortment of mignardises with a glass of wine and candle on a table.

Plate of decorated smoked salmon, restaurant near Lirac.

Tasting of Lirac white, rose, and red wines with ice bucket and flowers.

Elegant restaurant interior with set tables and modern tree paintings.

Moreover, the sumptuous setting of the place offers a real break for relaxation (frankly, I didn’t want to leave!).

The little extra: the pool for sunny days (which wasn’t really the case when I visited)

Covered pool in a misty winery estate near Lirac.

Hotel room with rattan bed, green and brown cushions, and abstract painting.

Breakfast served on a purple table with pastries, coffee, and fruit juice.

Large pine tree with plants and pebbles in a garden, Lirac context.

Hotel room with wicker bed and armchairs near a window.

Entre Vigne et Garrigue

600 route de Saint-Bruno 30131 Pujaut

Restaurant prices: lunch formula €38 / Vigne et Garrigue menu €58 / inspiration menus

at €72, €87, or €125

Room prices: from €165 including breakfast

The La Courtille restaurant

This new restaurant in Tavel is very friendly and has a beautiful shaded terrace for nice days. It was the occasion for us to have a convivial lunch with some winemakers from the appellation, who introduced us to their wines and their shared passion for their terroir.

Tasting of white Lirac wine Chateau de Montfaucon 2016 with "I Love Lirac" banner.

Bottle of red Lirac wine, Domaine des Maravilhas La Pierre de Josette 2016.

Shaded terrace with customers and decorative fountain near Lirac.

Paved courtyard shaded by a pergola, barrel near a Lirac winery.

Five bottles of red Lirac wines on an outdoor table.

Ravioli, red Lirac wine, and water on restaurant table.

Shaded terrace with large tree, white furniture, and old stone building in Lirac.

Shaded terrace with fountain and guests tasting in Lirac.

Fish fillet on ratatouille with glass of red Lirac wine.

Restaurant La Courtille

208 chemin des Cravailleux 30126 Tavel

Prices: starters between €8 and €10 / main courses between €18 and €28 / desserts and cheeses €7

Where to taste wine in Avignon? Le Carre du Palais

This establishment is located right next to the Palais des Papes in Avignon. It houses a cellar that offers tastings, a wine bar/restaurant, and also a Wine School.

Lirac wine tasting by two women, browsing a Wine School booklet.

Slate board with wine tasting hours from Monday to Friday near Lirac bottles.

Lirac wine tasting with bottles and glasses on white table.

The cellar of this establishment has a beautiful collection of 10,000 bottles in an exceptional location: the former vault of the Banque de France.

Lirac wine tasting: bottles on shelves, glasses, and red candle holders.

Rhone wine map showing Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and Avignon.

Rhone Valley wine tasting with presentation on map.

Restaurant room with set tables and shelves filled with wine bottles.

Restaurant terrace near the Palais des Papes in Avignon in the evening.

I highly recommend you go to Le Carre du Palais for a tasting of Cotes du Rhone. The tastings (of 3 AOC Cotes du Rhone wines) are conducted by knowledgeable and passionate sommeliers.